Architectural Photography

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Post on 07-Jul-2016




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Photomontage, 3D effects and point of capturing


What Is Architectural Photography?The term architectural photography describes both the subject (architecture) and the means of capturing it (photography). The word architecture comes from the Greek arkhitekton, which consists of roots meaning chief and builder. Architecture is ubiquitous in our lives, and its primary function as shelter encompasses a great many functional uses. Architecture is practically a humans second skin. Le Corbusier once said, Architecture is one of the most urgent needs of man, for the house has always been the indispensable and first tool that he has forged for himself. Architecture takes on an extremely broad range of forms, from simple, primeval huts, the ornate temples of antiquity, and the purely functional factories of the industrial revolution to todays urban landmarks of concrete and glass. Mankind without architecture would have remained anchored in the stone age, with few options of places to live, sleep, eat, work, trade, produce, withdraw, rest, administer, and educate. In many regions, climatic conditions would make life without architecture impossible. The word photography comes from the Greek photos and graph, which means drawing with light, and describes a technical means of optically capturing the likeness of objects and making them palpable in places where they cannot normally be seen. Photography thus propagates images of buildings into the wider world, enabling people to view them in a wide variety of circumstances - whether in newspapers, books, posters, the Internet, or in galleries or museums.Source:,d.c2E

TECHNIQUES IN PHOTOGRAPHING BUILDINGCOMPOSITIONYou can use any one of the main compositional rules, but pay particular attention to the important zones of focus foreground, middle ground and background. A general view will have something in each one of these areas that adds to the overall composition. Elements in each area shouldnt compete with each other and use features such as pathways and walls to lead the eye into the rest of the scene and build up your composition as a series of layers.

FRAMEITUPIts one of the most obvious of photo techniques and yet one of the most widely forgotten. In our haste to get as much of the subject in the frame, we sometimes forget to take a step back and use other elements in a scene to act as a frame for the focal point. Tree branches, window frames of other buildings or even people standing in the foreground can all be used as makeshift frames for an effective shot of a building.Use low angles to blow scale out of the window and place strong elements in the foreground to confuse the viewer. Whoever said that viewing a picture should be an entirely unchallenging business? Make the viewer work at appreciating your efforts and give your picture an edgy feel by experimenting with foreground interest and scale changes.

USINGCONVERGINGVERTICALSBuildings are tall and including a whole one in the frame can be a challenge. Tilt your camera upwards to include the top of a church steeple and youll induce converging verticals where the sides of the building lean in. Purists frown at this effect and will either seek a higher viewpoint (to avoid tilting the camera) or use an expensive shift lens to get rid of the effect or do it in software. But we heartily encourage their use. Fit a wide-angle and crouch down low close to a building to send its uprights skyward.

TIMEITRIGHTArchitectural photography is like most other picture-taking disciplines getting the right light is imperative. The quality of light changes throughout the day, but at this time of year, youll be best off shooting buildings either early in the morning or in the late afternoon/early evening.Shoot before the sun gets up and the light will be softer and shadows less defined. Then theres a short period as the sun climbs into the sky when the light will be warm and directional, in much the same way as at the end of the day. If its dramatic shots youre after avoid the middle of the day as shadows will be harsh and the lighting flat and featureless.Whenever you shoot, an 81B warm-up filter will help enhance colours, warming up brickwork and enriching stone. Naturally, this can be added in post-production with filter effects available in most image-editing programs. Alternatively, shoot Raw and alter the white-balance when you convert files.

USESYMMETRYBeing angular structures, buildings will contain plenty of symmetry if you look close enough. Seen through a telephoto or telezoom a building can be deconstructed into a series of detailed close-ups of curves, corners and lines. Weave symmetry into your detail shots or play a building off against its location by placing a foreground object slap bang in the centre of the frame with the building forming the background.Apply the same techniques indoors. The interior of a church, for example, is perfect for symmetry with pillars and a boat-like roof shape.

GLASSACTBest photographed on a bright but overcast day, stained glass is a great subject. If you want to include a whole window, meter carefully from a bright area, set the exposure using the manual mode and then recompose. For detail shots, you should be able to leave the meter to its own devices. If it is really sunny, look for areas where the windows colours are projected onto stonework or the floor. In both instances, a tripod is essential.

REFLECTEDGLORYIf youre shooting a location on or near water, take a step back and see if you can capture a reflection shot. Ideally, you should attempt this type of shot when the weather is calm ripples in the water will dilute the effect. Remember the rules of composition and place the building in the top third of the frame. If it is windy, try going for a more abstract result, concentrating solely on the reflection. Whatever the prevailing conditions, take a polarizer filter to boost colour on a sunny day, but be careful how much you turn it as you dont want to remove the reflection effect altogether.

TRYINFRAREDThe ethereal quality of an infrared image takes some beating in imparting a classic haunted feel. Infrared images used to only be possible with specialist film Rollei IR820C and Ilford SFXs extended red sensitivity film are still available but, thanks to digital, its got a whole lot easier. Some compacts are even infrared sensitive. One such camera is the Fujifilm FinePix IS-1, which is sensitive to infrared as well as visible light. Using an opaque filter with this camera, you can shoot handheld, because you get normal shutter speeds, but as always using a tripod is best practice, and the effects are impressive.With a DSLR, youll need a tripod because exposures will be long, even in bright sun, and an opaque infrared filter such as a Hoya R72 or B+W 092. Compose before putting the filter in place, then position the filter and take the picture.If youve recently upgraded your DSLR body you may like to know that you could get the old body converted for infrared photography. It costs upwards of 205. Once converted, you cant go back, but it does mean you get infrared images without using a filter. You can snap away as you would with a normal camera and then do some work on the computer afterwards this also applies to IR images taken on compacts and the IS-1. ASC offers an infrared conversion service in the UK

GOFORDETAILSArchitectural photographers have their work cut out when it comes to shooting details there is so much choice! But the beauty is you can do it in almost any lighting conditions, from bright sunshine to overcast doom and gloom.Both the exteriors and interiors of older buildings are littered with details, its just a question of spotting them and, crucially, making them photographically interesting.Shooting a gargoyle through the long end of a telezoom isnt enough. Instead, look for shapes and patterns in brick and stonework or go for more abstract compositions thatll challenge the viewer to work out what it is. Details dont have to be small. The grandeur of a church roof, cluster of turrets on a stately home or clock face on a town hall are all options.

SHOOTATNIGHTA building might look imposing by day, but its at night when the real fun begins! Floodlit by powerful tungsten lights at ground level, it will take on an altogether more dramatic persona thanks to stark shadows thrown up by the lights. Seen at night under floodlights a building will tower above a city and lends itself to being photographed from a distance with an object in the foreground such as rooftops or statues placed in silhouette. Expose for the highlights and watch for changes in white-balance. See PM next month for more on night photography and how to use your cameras B (bulb) setting.


20 BEAUTIFUL PHOTOSHOP MONTAGE TUTORIALSHOW TO,RESOURCESMAR 6, 2009Photomontage is a technique widely used by graphic designers and consists of cutting and joining multiple photographs in order to create a unique image, using graphic applications such as Photoshop.The idea here is to create the illusion that all of the photo elements are parts of the same photo.In this article, well look at20 beautiful Photoshop montage tutorialsthat teach you step by step how to create these amazing photo composites.Follow these tutorials and mix them up. The possibilities are endless and the results can really stretch anyones imagination.1. SURREAL PHOTO MANIPULATION