Application of Spirals in Fashion Design

Canming Liu1, a, Yan Li 2,b,Yumei Cui3,c

1Fashion.Art Design Institute,Donghua University,1882, Yan An Road(w),200051,Shanghai,China

2 Fashion.Art Design Institute,Donghua University,1882, Yan An Road(w),200051,Shanghai,China

3 Fashion.Art Design Institute,Donghua University,1882, Yan An Road(w),200051,Shanghai,China

ayezpnj@126.com,

bypnypj@163.com,cymyhyez@126.com

Corresponding author Yumei Cui

Keywords:. spiral form, fashion design, Application

Abstract. This paper gives the definition and forms of expression of “the spiral” and expounds the

methods of application and variation of the spiral in fashion design. Different expressive forms of

different spirals are analyzed and sorted out, and experimental creation is carried out. Finally,

combing knowledge of fabrics, of draping and of design techniques, an analysis is made of the effect

of the use of different fabrics and draping on spiral forms to achieve the best three-dimensional

effects. Comparative research and literature referencing are used for this paper. Case study is also

made of particular expressive forms of art deco spirals by combing theory with practice, in an effort to

further the application of and research into the spiral in fashion design.

Introduction

The spiral is decorative. It in itself is a special physical phenomenon. As early as 300 BC, the great

Greek mathematician Archimedes became the first person to explain the structural characteristics,

energy and magic of spiral in his work On Spirals. Spiral is therefore also called Archimedean spiral

in the theoretical and academic communities. The existence of spiral in the natural world goes back as

early as 65 million years, and the chrysanthemum stone, which died at the same time as the dinosaur,

was a spiral-structured living thing. According to archeological findings, the oldest living spiral on

earth is the climbing spiral vine that has been growing in the spiral form through thousands of

millions of years of evolution. T absorb more sunshine, this spiral plant climbs spirally, which at the

same time helps it overcome its shortcoming of being too weak to grow erectly by itself.The spiral is

used in the process of industrialization in the form of spiral pump, spiral aiguille, screw, propeller,

spring, etc., contributing to the development of science and technology. The spiral structure has

contributed much to human advancement. This paper is a study of the application and research of the

spiral form in fashion design.

Organization of the Text

Nature abounds with numerous wonderful spiral structures: the feathers of many birds, vines, plant

grains, and leaves. The spiral structure is not only found in natural things such as nebula, cells,

viruses, human DNA, plants, and ocean creatures, but also industrial products such as spring, screw,

as well as works of art, and even foods.

Logarithmic spiral is used in the design of the spiral staircase of the Vantican Museums.

Logarithmic spiral is a kind of curve found in nature. While keeping self-similar, logarithmic spirals

expand in geometric progression. Logarithmic spiral [1]

is a kind of spiral curve that shows the radius

of movement by the exponential function of a cyclotronic angle. Its most important feature is that the

angle form by the tangent line and the radius of movement is constant. Therefore, the sections, which

are formed by two constant routes of movement and the spiral curve, are similar, whichever sections

they are from the spiral. The upgoing trend of a logarithmic spiral was widely used in the design of

stairs in the past, especially in those of classical buildings during the Renaissance period.

Advanced Materials Research Vol. 627 (2013) pp 506-509Online available since 2012/Dec/27 at www.scientific.net© (2013) Trans Tech Publications, Switzerlanddoi:10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMR.627.506

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The spirals also appear in the structures of things close to our daily life such as onions, cabbage,

pinecones, and the shape and grain of living marine creatures in a wealth of forms and colors with

exquisite forms. Take nautilus. The shape outlined by spiral curves on the full round body looks as if

constructed in line with the golden section; the shell grains radiating from the spiral center seems to

suggest the long experience of being washed by sea water and the tiger-fur-like spots on the surface

looks like orderly waves which have encountered unexpected resistance, showing orderliness with

variation.

Overview of spiral in fashion design

Main types and definition of spiral in fashion design. Spirals in fashion can be divided into the

following types: plane surface spiral grain decoration, (semi-)3D spiral decoration, and 3D spiral

fashion contour.

(1)The plane spiral grain decoration refers to special patterns, designs, weaving methods,

techniques that make materials shaped like spirals in fashion design.

(2) 3D spiral decoration refers to the spiral which creates a three-dimensional effect. This kind of

3D effect gives a sense of volume, as such arrangement of volume can best create a sense of space.

The same volume can be arranged by piling and accumulating according to the order of position, or by

repetition, progressive change, reflection, variation in amount, direction and distance.

Calling out by designer Che Weidong[3]

is a case in point, which is designed by repetition and

other arrangement methods in a particular order. Silk-like fiber, plastic cloth, paper cups and paper

plates are used as materials of the work. The natural curves of cut and woven disposable paper cups

used for the whole work gives it a beautiful shape with natural and flowing lines. These cups, cut and

then curved up, are used to decorate the skirt lap. This work is full of the sense of tech and a futuristic

outlook. The recycling of disposable paper cups embodies the designer’s environment-friendly

attitude.

(3) 3D spiral fashion contour refers to the three-dimensional spiral structure of the whole outline,

or that of top clothes, or that of lower clothes.

Patterns of spirals in fashion design. The patterns of spirals in fashion design are overlap,

repetition, progressive change, contrast and harmony.

The overlap of spirals can be that between lines, between a line and a surface, and between surfaces,

or a combination of the above.

The repetition can be that of lines or surfaces. The progressive change is one in size and individual

volume.

The contrast here is a creative method of highlighting the image of the subject by placing side by

side two contradictory (groups of) surfaces and three-dimensional objects with distinctive

characteristic differences to set off one with the other. Harmony is the emphasis of the commonness

between the various elements in the spirals, to ease their difference and encourage harmony. It’s a

concept opposite to contrast, and the two restrict and work with each other. While contrast underlines

the distinctive images of various forms, harmony brings out the consistence of a work.

Eco-aesthetics of spirals in fashion design Eco-aesthetics is a transdisciplinary applied study of

aesthetics born under the spur of modern ecological ideas, with the establishment of the category of

“ecological beauty” as its core and the ecological aesthetic creation in lifestyle and living

environments as its target, and the pursuit of “man and nature as one” as its ideal. Eco-aesthetics has

also opened up a new horizon in the judgment of beauty in modern art and design, where the design

achievement is no longer evaluated only in terms of function and form as a new dimension of measure

has been added. The visual images of future design works based on eco-aesthetics will perhaps go

beyond the aesthetic criteria formed out of our old experiences. This is also a new issue to be solved

by the future art design.

Spirals can also be interpreted as a kind of bionics. The trend of much of fashion developing

toward bionic forms in some way is an effort to persuade people to pay more attention to nature and

Advanced Materials Research Vol. 627 507

the ecological environment. Bionic expressions are imitation, abstraction and extraction of the images

of living things in nature, and representation of them in materials. By capturing and imitating living

spiral things from nature, we can create more beautiful works.

Application of art deco spirals in fashion design

Choice of art deco spirals and materials. Fabric is one of the three factors of fashion design.

Desirable effects of design come primarily from a full knowledge of properties of the material which

must perfectly match the style and shape of the fashion. And experimental practice with spiral forms

comes from an intimate knowledge of the relationship between the texture of fabric and formation of

spirals.

Features of spirals in soft fabrics. With most soft materials, such as silk, thin cotton fiber and

chemical and blended fiber, which are loose in structure, linear section or large-area arc section is

usually used to make the work look flowing.

Feature of spirals in smooth and shiny fabrics. With smooth and shiny fabrics, especially traditional

Chinese brocade, which feels smooth and reflects light, they are usually overlapped to give a sense of

splendor.

Features of spiral morphs in stiff fabrics. Stiff fabric (picture 4-2), which makes for distinctive lines

and a sense of size and weight, tends to form stiff spiral forms to enrich the clothing contour, and

therefore is suitable for whole-body or large-area 3D spirals, giving an impression of good taste and

smoothness.

Features of spirals in thick and solid fabrics. Thick and solid fabric, such as various woolen clothes,

woolens, thick, solid and stiff, is generally used with compounding methods in which 3D structures

are added in the fabric.

Features of spirals in transparent fabrics. With transparent fabrics, transparent or gauzy, which give

an artistic effect of elegance and mystery, spiral forms are mostly printed onto the material before they

are made into clothes, which are mostly decorated locally with spirals overlapped or arrayed, which

give an effect of grace and elegance.

Application o spiral patterns in fashion design. There is a great variation of patterns on the

fabrics and each pattern can convey a different style. The design of spirals and patterns of fabrics have

a delicate relationship. In the designing of spirals, two aspects must be considered. First, the design

must be based on the wholeness of the pattern. Second, the change of spiral lines or surfaces must

make the pattern to have a new appearance, say, to create some visual illusions.

In preserving the wholeness of the pattern on fabric, due to the difference in structural properties,

loose 2D clothes do better than body-fitting 3D clothes to show the whole pattern. The box-shaped

outdo the X-shaped in keeping the original style of the pattern. Many designers, when working with

patterned fabrics, pay more attention to giving these patterns a new life by using various section

methods, say, breaking a whole pattern down to create new visual effects. It is one of the designers’

skills to use varying spiral lines to create visual illusions, in which a fabric of spiral texture is

rearranged in different directions, creating sharp turns and clashes and other changes in the spiral

texture, breaking the otherwise monotonous visual effect of the material, and lending a new look and

meaning to the fabric.

It follows from the above analysis that the thorough expression or reconstruction of a pattern

depend on a clever arrangement; the style and shape features of a pattern will in return inspire a

designer’s new ideas about fashion design. These two aspects restrict and inspire each other. In the

designing, individual advantages and characteristics must be fully tapped for a combination of shape

and pattern, which will give a stronger visual impression and a deeper spiritual experience.

Combination of art deco spirals and fashion contours. The plane molding of spirals is generally

used in clothes with varying contours in the form of plane printing and hand painting. In a 3D spiral

molding, generally, the whole or part of the clothes are in 3D spiral forms. Take picture 4-3. The

508 Advances in Textile Engineering and Materials

relatively stiff organza is used, the skirt spirals from the shoulder to the lap, giving a strong 3D

impression. Take picture 4-4. The clothes are made of true silk. The flowing effect of the spiral on the

lap of the skirt gives the wearer a sense of lightness and swiftness.

Parts of clothes where art deco spirals are used. Large 3D spirals on light and thin fabrics make

clothes light and flowing. It’s unusual to use art deco spirals in headwear or on the shoulder.Such use

brings unexpected visual effects. Say picture4-5, in which 2D weaving skill is used to weave the

headwear, with each of two spiral lines immediately next to each other with a different weaving

method to create an exceptional decorative effect. Such headwear lends a sense of layers to clothes

and goes well with the woven fabric in the clothes.

Research into applied techniques of art deco spirals. The applied techniques of art deco spirals

generally include the techniques for fabric reshaping and clothing production. In fabric reshaping,

knowledge of the properties of the fabric is essential in terms of elasticity, wrinkle resistance, wear

resistance, acid-base property, and drapability. Materials of different properties are different in feel,

appearance and serviceability. Materials are generally treated by shirring, laminating, grinding,

concave-convex processing, and pleating.

Shirring or smocking[5 ] gives a rich variation to fashion shapes as it shortens the long or wide

part of a material, making clothes more comfortable and beautiful. Besides, the drapability and

orderly flowing property of the material makes clothes not only comfortable and body-fitting, but

decorative. Therefore, this technique is widely used in the making of semi-loose and loose clothes.

Shirring in clothing may come in many forms. It may appear at a given part in a vertical or horizontal

form, or by drawing folds at a certain part at upper and lower ends.

Laminating is another way of creating a 3D effect by superimposing layers of material to crate a

three dimensional space with superimposing and mutually penetrating layers.

Summary

The above definition of the spiral form and the analysis and research of works by Chinese and foreign

designers lead to the following conclusions:

Nature abounds with spiral forms, which exist mostly in an orderly and well-patterned way and can

be simulated by man in fashion design. Logarithmic spiral, for example, can be used in fashion

design.

While stiff, thick and solid fabrics are generally suitable for the design and production of clothes of

3D spirals as clothes so made have a round and full contour and relatively well-represented 3D spiral

forms, soft, light, thin and transparent fabrics are generally suitable for manufacturing clothes in plane

spiral forms.

References

[1] Jianping Jin, Methods for Mathematical Bionic Design, Hubei Arts Publishing House, March

2009

[2] Jianlin Ni, Sources of Decoration - Research into Primitive Decorative Art, Chongqing,

Chongqing University Press, June 2007

[3] Lv Yue (ed.), Green Attitude - ARfT Fashion Art Exhibition 2010, Beijing, Beijing Arts and

Crafts Press, March 2010

[4] The Research Group of Sustainable Development of Art, Academy of Art & Design, Tsinghua

University, The Environmental Ecology of Design Art, Beijing, China Architecture & Building

Press, 2007

[5] Dong Liu, The Structural Design of Shirring in Clothes, Melliand China, issue 4, 2008

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