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Alexander McQueens Last Interview

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DANNII MINOGUE (ISSUE 03, 1996) “I never laugh off stories, no matter how ridiculous they are. I either burst into tears , or call the lawyers and sue the papers.”

4 APRIL 2010

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5 APRIL 2010

His Were the most beautiful visions of what life might be if we all had the courage to look for them , says Godfrey Deeny, who interview the british designer only weeks before his tragic death

He’s the most imaginative mind in fashion, his shows the sea-son highlights for most editors – events fashionistas literally fight to get into. Yet when I break bread with Alexander McQueen in Milan in late Jaunuary, his mind is as equally obsessed with pressing issues like skiing and nesting, as creation.

The British designer is two nights away from staging an ep-ochal men’s show in Milan and is busy getting his next wom-en’s wear collection organised, but Lee, as everyone calls him, is just as excited about his week in Breuil-Cervinia, the Italian ski resort at the foot of the Matterhorn, and his plans for his new London Home, and being McQueen, the building should be inspirational—its author P.G Wodehouse’s misted Victorian Former home in Mayfair.

Which makes sense because, when it comes to inspiration, Lee’s two favourite sources are fine artists and TV, especially nature and science-fiction programs, which he plans to watch on ginormous flat screens in his soon-to-be-completed new townhouse on Dunraven Street.

This is precisely how he got the intellectual pot stewing for his most recent show, Plato’s Atlantis, whose remarkable lob-ster pincer shoes were the overriding image of the European S/S/2010 season.

“I got the idea for them from H.R Giger, and seeing Alien, and then I got a sculptor to make up a shoe so that it looked like it grew right out of the foot. Sick, ain’t I?” cackles McQueen over dinner.

Alexander McQueen 1969-2010 The Final Interview

“I got the idea for them from H.R Giger, and seeing Alien, and then I got a sculptor to make up a shoe so that it looked like it grew right out of the foot. Sick, ain’t I?”

7 APRIL 2010

Everything from Giger’s surrealist images to photography of the Grreat Battier Reef featured in the collection an exot-ic submariner trip where the organic silhouettes of rounded shoulders, cinched waists and moulded torsos climaxed with models akin to chess pieces, triumphant in all-gold legging boots and dress combos.

“The whole show was metamorphic. It was the reversal of one before that , which was Charles Darwin with the evolution of the species. This was the reverse instead of Darwin theory that we come from the sea, we made it that we come from the land and go back into the sea,” he tells me before tucking into his (very appropriate plate of branzino, carpaccio.

That showalso epitomised McQueens’s obsession with meld-ing fashion and technology. He had planned live-stream the how on Nick Knight’s fashion website, Showstudio.com, mix-ing runway footage with a video of a woman morphing into a bizarre aquatic creature as snakes slithered over her naked body. Adding to the futuristic feel were the two cameras on huge crane which moved up and down the runway, project-ing images of audience –critics, editors and celebs—onto a giant LED screen.

However, when Lady Gaga tweeted pre-show that McQueen’s show would feature that premiere of her new sin-gle her huge following surged onto the feed, causing the site to crash. But in person, McQueen is not an attention-seeking dresser. To dinner at the Four seasons, he wears a simple grey round-neck T-shirt under one of his own darker grey V-neck

cashmere sweaters, a camel hair coat, Hermes jeans and belt, and a pair of Maison Martin Margiela boots so rugged they almost look daggy. “I know what I want to wear. I don’t want to stand out, wearing something that is asymmetric and covered in dandelions,” he insists.

In conversation, he speaks quietly, interspersed with frequent peals of laughter, and he’s disarmingly honest, especially for a designer – a profession that has morphed from full-fledged ec-centricity to too much on –message spin in this new generation.

Seven months earlier, McQueen took deconstructed fashion to its ultimate conclusion, with a collection whose every look con-tained some piece of detritus from contemporary civilisation. The Horn of Plenty collection dedicated to his mother Joyce Barbara McQueen ( who passed away on February 2, 2010), was staged at the boxing ring of Marcel Cerdan, Edith Piaf’s lover. The space was reinvented as an enormous trash heap – Close Encounters of the Third Kind-large – composed of car debris, used tyres, wrecked computers, dead TV sets and various props from former show. The headgear consisted of empty beer cans tied together with plastic tape, miniature umbrella, flowerpots, lampshades, a supermarket shopping bag and a three-dimensional halo.

However, don’t get the impression it was all weird. The show featured several standout pieces, from the giant collar hound’s tooth series that opened the proceedings to perfect 1930s-style suit in a broken-[attern version of the same fabric that looked like it had been dipped in spice.

McQueen’s bizarre cast of characters included deranged Miss Havishams in jagged tweed; bag ladies in bubble wrap coast; and S&M highwaywomen in chiffon bustiers. The result made grey gardens Look like Gossip Girl. But between his most recent men’s and women’s runway shows, Lee’s been off to the slopes again with best buddy and muse Annabelle Neilson, the wild- child socialite who once rode a motorbike across Australia.

“Now, we are going up to northern Italy, to Cervinia. I have been skiing since I was in school, but I’m not great. I am never going to break an Olympic record, I just want to go down the hills, on red or blue runs, but not… black,” explains the design-er, who spent Christmas at France’s most challenging up mar-ket resort, Val d’Isere, in the same chalet preferred by Bono, and which overlooks the Olympic run. “Really outdated look. Too much pine for me You don’t want to live in a sauna, do you?” sniffs the demanding Lee.

His Milan men’s show was inspired by Sting, who appeared on Jools Holland’s BBC music show looking like a whaling cap-tain. “ I wanted to show that because my customers are com-plete men, not a stereotype of a fashion victim. Stings my ideal man, because hes a real man,” says McQueen of the singer.

McQueen, who will be 41 on March 17, St Patrick’s Day Describes his dad “ as one of 13, borkn on a back allotment. They only surfaced to breek.” And, when I ask him about his romantic life, he moans about his recent boyfriend. “ A bas-tard who went back to Australia, and I was left looking at his

8 APRIL 2010

S/S 2009 S/S 2010S/S 2008F/S 2007

“McQueen staged the triumph of London’s fashion week...The sheer volume of ideas and their fine execution was breathtaking” Suzy Menker -fashion editor International Herald Tribune

“It was McQueen’s last couture collection for Givenchy in 2001. He had a short, sharp ride with the house, controversial and his collection was brilliant.”- Alison Veness-McGourty editoral director, Harper’s BAZZAR

name,” he grimaces, pointing to a name tattooed on his right arm. Which he then turns down when I try to read the moniker and keeps that way until the end of the meal.

His shos can also test the limits of sensibility, like his previous mens show, featuring a video by photographer David Sims if artist having a schizophrenic breakdown in an empty house. When you callaborate with someone like David Sims, you do something that is of the cuff. And it can seem like it is up its own arse, but my life is up my own arse. You can get insular with fashion. Sometimes, I let you see what I am going through. It’s biographical, but all my work is biographical in some sense. It has to be , otherwise there is no soul to it,” insists McQueen, who loves to talk about hi family. “It’s good to know where you come from. It makes you what you are today, Its DNA, it’s in you blood.”

He insists he has no plans to have kids, as” I am married to work”, though if he wants to disparage someone he calls them a “stitch bitch”. Nor has he interest in taking over anoth-er famed house such as Hermes or Chanel. “ Been there, done that,” he remarks in reference to his stint in Givency, which ended nearly a decade ago.

One can tell he’s desperately keen to move into his new home, anxious to get the art he’s bought installed, keen to walk his dogs in Hydepark and determined to do lots of cooking. McQueen gets very excited explaining how to make a good bouillabaisse: “There’ s a special thing I learned on TV. You need to grind lob-ster sheell in a coffee blender, and how end up with the powder that is you idea base,” he proudly.

And,building a wine cellar will be made easier by the fact that Gucci Groupm which retains a 51 percent stake in McQueen’s fashion house is controlled by the Pinault family, owners of Bordeaux vineyard, Chateau Latour.

“My cave should be full of Latour. I’ve still got 28 bottles left. Francois-Henri Pinault sends me a case each year with a note asking that we leave them for at least six years. But I drank a whole case in Christmas, loved it – it tasted like grapefruit.”

9 APRIL 2010

OH! RILEY

WITH HER ENDLESS BLONDE MANE AND UNASSUMING

SEX APPEAL,RILEY KEOUGH IS THE SWEETEST THING.

PHOTOGRAPHY STACEY MARKFASHION EDITOR JAMES WORTHINGTON DEMOLETOpposite: Preen dress; American Apparel long sleeve t-shirt.

10 APRIL 2010

11 APRIL 2010

Riley Keough is sweet, a little shy and totally down-to-earth. She arrives on set sans entourage in skinny jeans, Chloé boots and an Alternative Apparel hood-

ie with nothing underneath. “Riley’s face is a complex hybrid of her maternal blood-line,” says stylist James Worthington DeMolet, Who dressed her for this story. “She has the refinement of her grandmother with the brooding intrigue of her mom. It kind of explains her as well: brooding but refined.” Needing no introduction, Keough is best known as Lisa Marie Presley’s daughter, grandaughter of the one and only Elvis, but for her it’s not a ticket to the top. In fact, she’s rather reluctant to talk about her heritage and more intent to do her own thing. Her beauty and gracious presence is so captivating, it’s not surprising people want to take her picture from Nick Knight for Dior to Annie Leibowitz for the cover of American Vogue. This model and muse is our kind of girl.

1. While talking to Russh she was making pasta with her best friend in the kitchen.

2. She loves taking pictures “but it is more of a hobby at this point”.

3. She dresses according to her mood.” I wear a lot of dark colors mostly and I like unique thing, I love clothes from the 20s and 30s [and] I love the 60s. Lots of things inspire my style.”

4. She despairs when asked to narrow her desert island discs down to three. “There are too many good records to only pick three! It would probably be one classic rock record, one folk record and one electronic record.”

5. She has the most long and lustrous hair in the business… and it’s all real folks! How does she maintain her mane? “To be honest I don’t do anything to it. I haven’t had it cut in years, I should probably cut it soon to keep it healthy. I wash it and brush it and try not to mess with it too much.”

6. She forges her own path despite having an iconic lineage. “They have definitely had influence on everything in my life, as most parents and grandparents have, but for the most part I’ve always had my own style.”

7. Her favourite song to belt out at karaoke is Friends in Low Places by Garth Brooks. “Every time it comes on everyone starts singing and it’s always really funny.”

8. She was an imaginative child. “I went through phases of what I wanted to do; at one point I wanted to be a pianist, then I wanted to be a director; I wanted to be a writer and I wanted to just be a mom when I was like five, ha!”

9. The first thing she does in the morning is brush her teeth and then make coffee. 10. Thins that make her smile; “People I love, sweets, good music…”

11. It takes a lot to make her cry.

12. The people she admires most in life include her family, her best friends and “then there’s always, you know, Obama… haha”.

13. Her greatest indulgence is sugar. “I love sugar, so that would probably be num-ber one, and ice cream; I eat loads of ice cream.”

14. Her favourite items in her closet are her coats.

15. Her perfect day is a rainy day. “I would be with everyone I love, home cooking a really lovely dinner. We would eat and have a music night where everyone plays and sings, and there would be a fire in the fireplace.”

15 THINGS WE LOVE ABOUTRILEY KEOUGH

12 APRIL 2010

“ SHE HAS THEREFINEMENT OF HER GRAND-MOTHERWITH THEBROODING INTRIGUEOF HER MOM. IT KIND OF EXPLAINSHER AS WELLBROODINGBUT REFINED”

Alexander Wang singlet and jacket.Photographer Stacey Mark; Stylist James Worthington

DeMolet @ Atelier Management; Stylist’s Assistants JessicaBobince & Pernilla Löfberg; Makeup Robert Greene @ See

Management using M.A.C Cosmetics; Hair Travis Speck @Bumble & bumle; Photographer’s Assistant David

Hartman; Model Riley Keough @ Elite.

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