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Title: An Epoch in History

Author: P. H. Eley

Release Date: April 5, 2007 [eBook #20996]

Language: English

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***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN EPOCH IN HISTORY***

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AN

EPOCH

IN

HISTORY

P. H. ELEY

TO MY MOTHER,

whose tender love anddevotion for me are everunchanged, I dedicatethis book.

Copyright, 1904, by P. H. ELEY.

CONTENTS.

An Epoch in History.Manila.A Drama in Actual Life.What the Teachers Did.A Baile.A Sketch of Life in the Philippines.The Filipino at Home.A Visit to a Leper Colony.A Hike.

PREFACE.

It was the good fortune of theauthor to take part in a movementwithout precedent in the history ofthe world, and the incidents concurrentwith, together with thosesubsequent to that movement, havefurnished the material for thisbook. It has been the objectof the writer to weave into the storyof his actual experiences an accountof those things which are as yetan unexplored field in the realm ofletters. The work is submitted tothe reader in the hope that it willprove to be pregnant with interestto those who are in sympathy withgreat movements and to those wholisten with delight to stories of personalexperiences in distant landsand among strange peoples.

The Author.

The Virginia Polytechnic Institute, April, 1904.

5CHAPTER I.

AN EPOCH IN HISTORY.

Few people pause to think thatTuesday, the twenty-third day ofJuly, nineteen hundred and one, notonly placed a mile-stone on the roadof civilization, but also marked anepoch in the history of the world.

That day placed a mile-stone onthe road of civilization because itsaw the culmination of one of thegreatest movements ever attemptedin behalf of common school education.It marked an epoch in thehistory of the world because, for6the first time within the knowledgeof man, a conquering people, insteadof sending battalions of soldiers tohold the conquered in subjection,sent a carefully selected body ofmen and women to carry to themthe benefits of a highly developedsociety.

It was on this day that the UnitedStates Government sent from SanFrancisco four hundred and ninety-ninetrained men and women toestablish throughout the PhilippineIslands a system of free publicschools.

The ball on the tower of theFerry Building in San Franciscohad just fallen, announcing thehour of noon on the one hundred7and twentieth meridian, when thepropellers began revolving and theUnited States Army TransportThomas swung out into the middleof the bay, where it droppedanchor for a few moments whilesome belated boxes of lemons and afew other articles were added to theequipment of the stewards department.

The anchor was again on its wayto the surface when a row-boatdriven by four oarsmen with drawnmuscles and clenched teeth glidedin under the bow of the ship. Itspassenger, a belated teacher who atthe last moment had wandered fromthe pier, was shouting for some oneto throw him a rope, and a8few moments later our last passengerwhose silvery hair little indicatedthe probability of such a blunderwas landed in a heap on thedeck. Our ship was now under wayand soon passed out of theGolden Gate bearing on and betweenher decks the largest numberof teachers as well as the largestcargo of pedagogical equipment thatany vessel in the history of theworld ever bore to a foreign landto instruct an alien people. Late inthe afternoon five whales came upand spouted and played around us.We passed on and as their fountainsof spray disappeared in thedistance the sun sank down to payhis wonted devotion before theshrine of night. We were alone.

9By good fortune we went by wayof the Hawaiian Islands and touchedat Honolulu. We entered the harborin the first faint light of thecoming morn while the moon stillshone with resplendent glory justabove the nearer rim of the oldextinct volcanic crater lying justbehind the town. High points ofland lay around us on three sides,while across the bay soft billowyclouds completed an enchanting circlefrom the spell of which none ofus wished ever to escape.

No traveler who lands at Honoluluwill feel unrequited for his timeand his money should he visit twoplaces in the vicinity of the town.The first is the Pali and the second,10the Bishop Museum of PolynesianEthnology.

The first is a gigantic precipice,reached by a few hours ride fromthe city by horse. As one reachesthe precipice, there spreads out beforehim at a dizzying depth belowa verdant plain, bounded in the distanceby an emerald sea. The windwhich always blows in tropical countriesis gathered in between the longprojecting arms of a mountainchain and rushes over the face ofcliff with such force that it is saidby travelers to be one of the strongestcontinual winds on the globe.

The Bishop Museum of PolynesianEthnology contains the finestcollection in existence of things11illustrating the life and customs ofPolynesia. Among other things,the visitor is shown the personal godof war of that sovereign whosegrand-child was the last to holdthe sceptre of the Kanakas. Thereare royal documents to prove thatmore than one thousand men havebeen beheaded before this grim-facedold idol. Here, too, is thefamous robe of birds feathers, madeto please the fancy of this samegrim old monarch. The feathers ofwhich this strange, but really elegant,robe is made are of a reddishcolor. The birds from which theywere plucked were found only inthe Hawaiian Islands and each birdhad only four feathers, two being12under each wing. The extinctionof the bird is attributed to the makingof this royal robe. So many ofthem were needed that hundreds ofhunters were employed a score ormore of years to secure the numberrequired. Placing the wages ofthe hunters at a reasonable figure,the value of the robe is over threehundred thousand dollars.

At Honolulu one sees also thatfamous sport of the South SeaIslanders, surf-shooting. The nativewades far out into the surf witha long narrow board and then sitsastride of it upon the surface of thewater. As the long billows comerolling in, he places his board uponthe convex surface of an advancing13wave, then, with the poise of a rope-dancer,he places his weight properlyupon the plank and is shot forwardwith precipitate rapidity.

Between Honolulu and Manilalies the imaginary line where thedays of the week are supposed tobegin and end. It has long been acustom among sailors to hold theRevels of Neptune on the nightafter a vessel crosses either the InternationalDate Line or the Equator,and the ship is then turned overto the crew. Even the petty officersof the ship are not free from beingmade the objects of the sport, andpassengers of especial prominencehave often been treated to a bath ina tub of cold water or had their faces14lathered with a broom as a shavingbrush while a bar of old iron servedthe purpose of a razor.

A naval lieutenant on the battleshipwhich conveyed Napoleon fromLondon to St. Helena, writing toone of the court ladies in London,states that Napoleon offered thesailors four hundred dollars in goldand actually gave them eighty-fivedollars to escape being ducked in atub of cold water and shaved witha rough iron hoop when they crossedthe equator.* * Century Magazine for September, 1889.

We reached the line on Thursdaynight and awoke a few hours lateron Saturday morning, having lost aday in revelry.

15CHAPTER II.

MANILA.

One would imagine the water ofManila Bay to be as tranquil as alake should conclusions be drawnfrom its almost landlocked position.On the contrary, it is noted amongsailors the world over for the roughnessof its waters; and a breakwaterbehind which ships can lie in quietand take on or discharge their cargoesis essential to the proper developmentof the citys shipping. But,so far as we were concerned, thiswas a possible joy of the future.So, one by one we descended the16narrow stairway at the side of theship, and then leaped at opportunemoments to the decks of the dancingsteam launches below. How itever came to pass that each of us,ladies and all, in succession wentthrough with this mid-air acrobaticperformance without serious accidentis a matter of profound wonder;but we did, and the launcheswhen loaded danced away over thebay and entered the mouth of thePasig River. At the wharf we wereinformally introduced to a crowd ofcurious natives. The men worehat, shirt, and pants, and some ofthem wore shoes. The womenwore a sort of low-necked bodywith great wide sleeves and a skirt17not cut to fit the body, but of thesame size at both bottom and top,the upper end not being belted ortied, but just drawn tightly aroundthe waist and the surplus part knottedand tucked with the thumbunder the part already wrappedaround the body. The long, black,glossy hair of the young womenhung loosely down their backs, inmany cases reaching below thehipsheads of hair that almost anylady would be proud to own.Many of the women had in theirmouths long poorly-made cigarsthat were wrapped and tied withsmall white threads to hold themtogether while the lady ownerschewed and pulled away with vigorat the end opposite the fire.

18The time of our landing was inthe midst of the rainy season, andour clothing each morning whenwe arose to dress was as wet as ifit had just come from a wringer.Our underclothing could be drawnon only with difficulty and theexcessive disagreeableness of thefeeling added no little to the discomfortof the situation.

When the Spaniard, attracted byriches of these distant islands thathe had named for his King Philip,built the city of Manila, he modeledit after the mediaeval townsof his European home. And it iswell that he did so, for, if we givecredence to the citys history, itsearly life was not one of undisturbed19quiet. Not to mention thesea-rovers of those early times whopaid their piratical respects to thetown, legend has it that this oldwall has saved the city on two separateoccasions from bands of Morossweeping northward from the southernislands. So Manila consists oftwo parts, the city intra murosand the new city which has sprungup around it.

It was on the morning followingour landing that I first stood uponthe old stone bridge that for onehundred and fifty years has bornethe traffic between the old city andthe new. The strokes of eightoclock were pealing forth from thetower of a neighboring ecclesia20when I purposely took this stationthat I might see the current ofManilas life when flowing at itsheight.

At short intervals along the entirelength of the bridge stood in itscenter a line of well-shaped Americanpolicemen in neat Khaki uniformsand russet leather leggins.Thousands of pedestrians werepouring across the bridge in a ceaselessstream. Between the two linesof pedestrians moved in oppositedirections two lines of vehicles andcarts. It was indeed a cosmopolitanmixture of people. There wereEnglish bankers, French jewelers,German chemists, Spanish merchants,foreign consuls, officers and21privates of the American army, seamenfrom foreign warships lyingin the bay, Chinese of all classes andconditions from silk-clad bankers toalmost naked coolies trotting alongwith burdens swung over theirshoulders. There were Japanese,and East India merchants from Bombayand Calcutta, and, finally, allclasses and conditions of Filipinosapparently representing all of theseventeen separate branches of therace,each individual in this wonderfulstream following the channelof his own necessities.

In the river beneath were steamlaunches towing all kinds of smallcrafts. Along the bank of thestream below the bridge were inter-island22steamers packed so closelyalong the shore that one couldalmost have stepped from one toanother. Into every nook and cornerbetween the steamers werecrowded small odd looking boatsloaded with native produce overwhich the owners kept up an incessantchatter.

All of us remained in Manila forabout two weeks awaiting assignmentto our stations. One may wellimagine our consternation on awakingone morning about the end ofthe second week to find the followingnotice posted throughout all ourquarters:

All teachers not assigned to thecity of Manila or to Iloilo shouldsupply themselves with the followingarticles:

23One bed, or folding cot,One oil stove,One lamp,Enough supplies of all kinds sufficient for six months,Pots, pans, kettles, etc.

It is needless to say that positionsin Manila and Iloilo were now at apremium.

Was it possible that teachers wereto be sent to places where even thenecessaries of life could not beobtained! Was it possible thatmany would be sent to places soremote that for six months no freshsupplies could be gotten! A massmeeting was held at once, and acommittee was appointed to send acablegram to the Associated Press24petitioning aid from the Americanpeople at large. Realizing whatconsternation would be createdthroughout the United States bysuch a message, two of the teachersleaped into a carriage at the close ofthe meeting and a few momentslater were closeted with the chiefexecutive of the department. Asa result the committee was persuadednot to send the cablegram to theAssociated Press until by courtesyit had been sent to the President.Of course, this diplomatic movetided affairs over and the teacherswho had flatly refused to budgefrom Manila now agreed to go onto their stations, being assured thatwhatever action was best would betaken.

25The day had come when we mustseparate. We were to enter anuntried and an unknown field. Itwas fitting that we have a final joyousmeeting, so the best orchestrain the archipelago was engaged andwe chased the hours with flyingfeet until dawn so that whatevermight come to us in that unknownfuture upon which we were enteringeach would hold in pleasantmemory our last evening together.

26CHAPTER III.

A DRAMA IN ACTUAL LIFE.

Almost every one heeded thewarning to go to his station forearmedwith at least necessaries oflife, but, as it had never fallen tothe lot of the writer to cook, he refusedto learn at that late day, so hetook no pot, no pan, no kettle, puttinghis future into the hands of anuncertain fate and relying upon theunknown hospitality of the Filipino.

Bacalod, the capital of the provinceof Occidental Negros, was ourdestination. The second morning27after leaving Manila, we awoke withthe Kilpatrick lying at anchor ina shallow bay. We were severalmiles from the shore and nothing insight indicated that we had reacheda place of any importance. Latethe night before we had been awakenedby the loud, sharp ringing ofthe ships bells, accompanied by thereversal of the engines and a generaldisturbance awaking the crew. Soour first impressions on coming ondeck were that we had run aground.But the captain assured us thateverything was ship-shape and thatthis was the nearest point of approachto Capiz, a town of considerableimportance on the island ofPanay, where a body of troops was28to embark for home. Not even thegrass hut of a native was in sight.Search as we would, not a sign wasseen of a stream flowing into thesea, indicating the probable presenceof a town. There was not a signof life of any kind save one lonecolumn of thin, blue smoke thatarose from the side of a mountainmiles away. One would havethought that we were explorers ofthree hundred years ago lying offthe shore of some unknown land.

After breakfast the steam launch,together with all the boats, waslowered, and several of us who haddetermined to miss no opportunityto gather information about theislands took our places in the launch29by the side of the ships mate, andsteamed away across the water witha long line of boats strung out inthe rear. We headed away towarda group of cocoanut trees, and aboutan hour later stepped ashore on apile of decayed coral rocks that extendedsome twenty or thirty feetout into the water, thus forming theonly landing place of a town of severalthousands of people and of considerablecommercial importance. Afew moments after we had landed,an army wagon drawn by a magnificentpair of mules came up outof a tropical jungle along a narrowroad. We clambered into thewagon and were soon lost in thedepths of foliage from which we hadjust seen the vehicle emerge.

30Long waving bamboos with theirplumy leafage hung over the roadfrom each side, meeting and overlappingin the center until theyformed an archway so dense thatthe tropical sun now high in theheavens penetrated it only at intervals.At times the wagon sank upto the hubs in the soft earth, andthe muscles of the mules stood outlike whip-cords under the skin asthey drew us forward.

At a sharp turn in the road wecame upon the first division oftroops that was to embark for home.The look of joy upon their sun-brownedfaces was inexpressible.Their work was done, and withelastic step and smiling faces they31saluted us as they passed by. Thereign of force was at an end; it wasgoing out with them; the reign ofpeace had begun; it was coming inwith us.

In the afternoon when we returnedfrom the town the last ofthe troops had arrived and, aswe drove up, the bugle wassounding the call to supper.We noticed native women minglingwith the troops and, indeed, anative woman was in constant attentionwaiting upon one of the soldierswith whom we ate. Herclothes were clean, her hair wasnicely combed, and her generalappearance was neat. She seemedto anticipate the slightest wish of32the soldier with whom she was.She brought him water to drink,cleaned his plate after the mealand saw that his knife, fork, andspoon were put into his haversack.

We had now finished supper andthe launch had returned for the lastload of troops. The lieutenant incommand of the company gave theorder to fall in; the men shoulderedtheir rifles and fell into line.Forward, march! called the lieutenant,and the column swept forwardtowards the boats. Thewomen had until now restrainedthemselves, but, as their husbandsmarched away never to return, theirfeelings could no longer be restrained.One young woman of about33eighteen, who was leaning againsta rock by the roadside sobbing,when her husband passed, leapedup in frenzy of passionate love andcaught the rifle from his shoulder.Her first impulse seemed to be tothrow the gun away, but suddenlyrealizing the futility of such an actshe burst into tears, shouldered therifle herself and marched on by hisside. Another woman of moremature age threw her arms aroundthe legs of a tall stalwart man, anddrew him bodily from the line.

But the troops marched on andentered the boats. One woman whohad been unnoticed before camedown into the shallow water andcaught hold of our last boat as if to34prevent its leaving, while othersstood mingling their sobs with thesounds of the wavelets as they brokeon the sands. As we passed away,an expectant mother, standing inbold outline against the twilightsky, threw up her hands inan agony of despair and thensank upon the stones. The curtainhad fallen upon a drama inactual life deeper in pathos than anyother we had ever seen or everexpected to see. Depth of passion,depth of love! Who can fathomthe human heart?

35CHAPTER IV.

WHAT THE TEACHERS DID.

There is a remarkable samenessabout the towns in the Philippines.They all have a large open squareabout the middle of the town,around three sides of which areChinese stores, unless one side liesopen to the sea, and on the fourthis the great stone ecclesia. Thestreets run at right angles to oneanother and divide up the town intocreditable squares.

Everybody in the Philippines livesup-stairs, for the ground is so soaked36with water during the rainy seasonthat it is a menace to health to liveupon the ground floor. So even thepoorest nippa hut is built upon stakesfour or five feet above the ground.

Bacalod is a typical Philippinetown. As we landed, a broad opensquare was spread out before us.Two sides of the square were linedwith two-story houses in which wereChinese stores below and Filipinohomes above. On the third sidestood the great stone church inwhose massive tower the clock wasstriking the hour of four, while thefourth lay open to the sea that hadborne us thither.

We landed, but it was in a methodnew to us and one not usually37employed by the traveling public.

When our sail boat ran agroundon the sandy bottom a hundredyards or more from the shore, acrowd of Filipino men who were onthe beach slowly rolled up theirpantaloons and waded out to therescue,for the money that was init. The boats crew elevated theirtrousers legs also and slideddown into the water. Each of usthen straddled the neck of a Filipinostanding in the water and washeld by ankles to be steadied whileour biped mounts proceeded to theshore.

We were now on the ground andface to face with the situation. Togive the reader an idea of the38actual conditions met by the firstteachers who went to the Islands,the following is copied from theinstructions given us in Manila:

There shall be two sessions daily of all schools, and the last hour of the morning session shall be devoted solely to instructing the Filipino teachers.In cases where teachers are sent to a town in which there is no school-house, they are expected to secure the aid of the people and have one built.The American teacher is to see that all studying aloud is stopped.All supplies must be kept under lock and key. In towns 39where there is no case or box to lock the supplies in, and it is also impossible to get the town council to furnish a case, a requisition may be sent to Manila, and, if an appropriation can be secured, one will be made and sent out.

Thus it can be easily seen that wewere indeed pioneers. In manyplaces no school-house was to befound, and in some cases it waseven difficult to get the town councilto provide a case in which to keepthe supplies.

The work of the teachers was, inshort; to make the Englishlanguage the basis of instructionin the public schools.On our arrival at Bacalod two40schools were found in progress,for some soldiers had been detailedfor the work here previousto our coming. One of these wasfor boys and the other, for girls.Thus the work here had been ina measure simplified, but complicationsthat had arisen at Talisay, oneof the largest and richest towns onthe island, demanded a change ofteachers and the writer was assignedto the place as superintendent.Here an attempt had been made tostart a school but it had failedignominiously and a system of educationwas to be put into operationfrom the very start.

The Filipinos are not strong advocatesof co-education, so separate41schools were to be started for theboys and the girls. The one for theboys was gotten well in hand beforethe one for the girls was attemptedat all.

A few days after reaching thetown and securing a home the presidenteof the town had it publiclyannounced that the following Mondaymorning at eight oclock a publicschool for boys would be openedin a building that had been rentedfor the purpose by the municipalcouncil. About the middle of theafternoon of the same day a manbeat a little drum throughout all thestreets of the town to call the peopleout and the town clerk announcedboth in Spanish and in the native42language that this public schoolwould begin at the time and placementioned above; that instructionwould be free to all who came; thatthe government would furnish allsupplies; and that instruction wouldbe given in the English language. Anative principal and assistants wereemployed and everything was readyto begin.

The official report of the resultis as follows:

Boys public school of Talisay,Negros, P. I., began November 4,1901. Forty-three boys present ateight oclock. Forty-one of themknew good morning and goodafternoon but do not know the distinctionbetween them. Two of43them speak simple Spanish. Ateight forty-five, eight more, who hadbeen attending an early morning privateschool, came in together.

The books they brought were sovaried and so different from oneanother that it seemed impossibleto bring any reasonable degree oforder out of such a chaos, and so,after struggling vainly for about aweek with the problem, the superintendentby one fell stroke removedeverything in use and put in a uniformsystem, and from that day onthe English language has been thebasis of instruction in the publicschools of Talisay. The work wasof necessity very slow at first, butby the end of a year two schools44were going nicely and a number ofthe brightest boys and girls hadmade really excellent progress.

45CHAPTER V.

A BAILE.

Not long after the arrival of ourparty at Bacalod we received aninvitation to a baile given in ourhonor by the inhabitants of Silay,a town some ten or twelve miles upthe northern coast and one notedfor its social life. The invitationwas accepted with pleasure, andabout the middle of the afternoon onthe day appointed we were clad inthe immaculate white of the tropicsand steaming away up the coast onboard a launch sent for our conveyance.46Twilight was still lingeringon the path of day when we anchoredjust off shore at the town. Arow-boat containing the officials ofthe city came out to meet us and, indue season, we were ushered into aspacious drawing-room filled almostto overflowing with the lite of thetown. The lite of towns in the Philippinesspeak Spanish, and, as onlyone or two of our party could atthat time boast of more than a formalacquaintance with the Castiliantongue, the exchange of ideasthat evening between us and theFilipinos was of necessity not veryrapid.

The necessity of easy communicationbetween us was rendered somewhat47less indispensable by the announcementof supper as soon as wewere rested from our trip. Whenwe had taken our places at the tablea young Filipino about twenty-fiveyears of age arose and gave alengthy toast to the recent union ofthe Philippines with the UnitedStates. But as we Americans wereunable to scale the dizzy heights ofhis climaxes or sink to the depths ofhis pathos, we forewent the pleasuresof his oratory and turned ourattention to the savory odor of lamb,chicken, and roast pig that cameslyly stealing up our nostrils to sendus nerve dispatches about the gastronomicdelights of our not far distantfuture.

48At last the toast was ended andthe world-wide soup ushered in along train of things good to eat,served in a style better fitted to thedelights of the appetite than to theformalities of dinners, for, as soonas the pleasant task of one dish wascompleted by any one, the next wasserved him at once regardless of theprogress made by the others at thetable.

The last course was dulce. Thenew-comers to the Philippines willnot be long in making the acquaintanceof this dish, and at all meetings,both public and private, where eatablesare served, it performs animportant part. It is anythingsweet, and it may vary all the way49from an india-rubber-like black mixtureof cocoanut milk and dirtysugar to a really toothsome andrespectable confection. No matterof what materials a dish is composed,just so long as it is sweet, itis dulce.

After paying our respects to thislast course, we arose from the tableand entered a great rectangularroom from the center of whose ceilinghung a large glass chandelier, amass of shimmering crystals. Inthe chairs around the room were thewealth, the youth, and the beautyof the town.

The first and also the last numberof every Filipino dance of any formalityis the rigodon. The50dancers are arranged in a square, orquadrangle according to the numberparticipating, and are then ledthrough a tangled maze of figuresthat so utterly bewilders the novicethat he sinks into his chair at theend of the dance wondering how itall came to pass.

We Americans breathed a sigh ofrelief when the rigodon ended,and mustered fresh courage forsocial conquests in the waltz thatwas now breathing forth from thetrembling strings. My companionin the first dance had been theyoung lady by whose side Ihad sat at dinner. But itnow became necessary to searchfor another, so I prudentlywaited to see how partners were51chosen, and made no mistake whena few moments later I faced one ofthe most luscious looking seoritason the opposite side of the room andoffered her my arm. My eyes musthave told the story that my lipscould not utter in Spanish, for shesmiled upon me sweetly, arose, andput her hand upon my shoulder.My arm encircled her waist and Ibegan to waltz. Unfortunately mycompanion did not follow, butbegan to hop up and downin a manner most distressing.Supposing the attack to beonly temporary, I paused and,much to my relief, she soon showedsigns of recovery; and in the courseof time she came to a standstill looking52up into my face in an inquiringsort of way, apparently wonderingwhy St. Vitus had not paid hisrespects to me also. A secondattempt to follow the music met withresults similar to the first, and duringthe third attempt, which seemedto be trembling on the verge of afailure, St. Vitus let go my companionand seized me with suchvigor that she, who was small evenfor a Filipino, was gathered upbodily and taken around the roomat such a pace that her toes touchedthe floor only at far distant intervals.

At this point my devotion to theshrine of Terpsichore ceased fromforce of circumstances and I seated53myself in one of the most comfortablechairs in sight that I mightcarry out a previously formed planto study the Filipino somewhat criticallyas he appears in society.

The first thing that impressed meas the dancers passed up and downthe room was the flash of diamonds.Nearly every woman in the roomhad on a brooch that flashed thecolors of the rainbow at every turn.Almost all of them wore one or morerings that showed up brilliantlyunder the chandelier. Many of themen too, especially the young men,wore gems that appeared to beexquisite. A closer inspectionshowed that some of the gemshad flaws and others were of54a poor color, but no one would havedenied that, taken as a whole, it wasa really beautiful display.

The dress of the ladies was richlycolored. Many of their skirts wereof silk covered with hand embroideredflowers, and their filmy pinawaists and broad collar pieces wererich with needle-work. They allwore a kind of heelless velvet slipper,very common as a dress shoe in thePhilippines, or high-heeled patentleather shoes with neatly fittingblack stockings.

The men were dressed in whitecoats and white pantaloons or blackcoats and white pantaloons. Whiteshirts and collars, together with allsorts and styles of cravats and low-cut55patent leather shoes with highlycolored socks completed their dress.

It was easy to see that the Filipinosreally had a good deal ofmoney; that they liked to dress wasapparent; and that they believed ina table loaded with good things wasa fact to which all of us wereenthusiastic witnesses.

56CHAPTER VI.

A SKETCH OF LIFE IN THE PHILIPPINES.

House-keeping in the Philippinespresents some interesting phases.Our club of American officials decidedto run a mess, so we employeda cook and a house boy, then eachof us provided himself with a personalservant, making a total ofsix servants for four menit takesabout this proportion of servants tolive in any sort of comfort in thePhilippinesand launched ourselvesboldly upon the sea of domestic57economy. But there were shoalsahead of us, for the question of regulatingservants is one of no smallimportance in the Philippines, andone of its most disadvantageous featuresis the long chain of dependentsthat usually attends it.

We gave the cooks so much a daywith which to buy supplies in thelocal market, for our own table,making him render a daily list ofexpenditures, and a fixed amountbesides to purchase rice and fish forhimself and the other servants. Ofcourse, if they wished to vary theirdiet and get chicken and fresh pork,which could be had at far distant intervals,it was wholly a matter oftheir option, but the allowance was58made on the basis of so much riceand fish a day for each. Thisallowance was about fifteen cents aday in Spanish coin per servant.

Thus far all was well. We hadagreed to give the cook eight dollarsa month in Spanish money, thinkingthat good wages would procuregood service, but the visions of affluencethat floated before him on suchfloods of wealth were so alluringthat they drew him from the kitchento the cooler veranda. In less thana week he had employed an assistantat four dollars a month; in lessthan another week that assistanthad employed him an assistant attwo dollars a month; in less thananother week that assistant to the59assistant had employed him anassistant at the princely salary offifty cents a month; and from fearthat the chain of dependents wouldend only by our having the wholeFilipino race attached to our culinaryforce, we broke up house-keepingand went boarding again, choosingthat as the less of the two evils.

Our house furnishings werealmost wholly Philippine. The tableware and the food on the table camefrom the ends of the earth. Theknives and forks were made in Germany,the plates were manufacturedin England, the glass ware and tablecloth, in the United States. Theoatmeal and flour came from theUnited States also. The butter60came from Australia, the rice fromChina, the salt from Russia, andthe other eatables from sourcesabout as various as their separatenames. Switzerland furnished thecondensed milk and Illinois thecanned cream. Nearly all of thecanned fruit bore labels from Spain.

Thus it can easily be seen that lifein the Philippines, if lived accordingto American ideals, is dependentupon a highly developed and highlycomplex commerce. However, thedifficulties of transportation and therestriction of large stocks of merchandiseto Manila and some halfa dozen other towns, make so greata difference between country lifeand city life that a short comparison61of the two will not be out of place,and life in Manila may well be takenas being fairly typical of the latter.

Life in Manila is pleasant, but expensive.It is pleasant from thefact that it is not only the capital butalso metropolis of the archipelago.Thus the combination of wealth andhigh official position has given toManila a society of the highest andmost refined type. The process ofbeautifying and improving the citywhich is constantly going on bidsfair to give us at no distant day acity of which we may well be proud.

But let him who intends livingwell in Manila on a small incomebid farewell at once to so idylic adream, for it costs much to live well62there. In the city of Manila onecan get almost anything he wishes,but it must be paid for at the priceit commands. Especially in thecase of eatables, this price is by nomeans small, because to the firstcost of articles must in most casesbe added the expense of distantshipment from American, European,or Australian ports, and not infrequentlythe cost of long refrigerationmust also be taken into consideration.But, expensive though itis, it is very pleasant to live thereand those who have once enjoyed itoften wish again to quaff the cup ofits delights.

In strong contrast to this pleasantlife is the life of the quiet little63hamlet away in the distant islands.Indeed, the Filipino from the distanttown, who by some good fortunehas been to Manila, or, by acoup de main, has studied in one ofthe Manila colleges, is looked up toin a true hero-worshiping attitudeby all who either know him or hearof his fame. Life in such a place isone long state of harmless inactivity.Not a wave of trouble from thegreat outer world ever disturbs itspeaceful repose. One lounges foreverin an air of indolent ease andextreme aversion to anything approachingwhat might be called arespectable effort.

One arises in the morning aboutthe time the suns first rays silver the64top leaves of the cocoanut trees andthen stirs around until nine or tenoclock, when it is found expedientto avoid a further exposure to thesun. From then until about fiveoclock in the afternoon it is best totake things as they come, eventhough one of those things be a Filipinodinner. But then you mayhave your vehiclo attached to ayoung bull with a ring in his noseand go for a drive. If it is the dryseason you will probably enjoy thedrive unless you object to the frequentclouds of dust swept alongby the evening wind. If it is inthe rainy season your pleasure willdepend to a considerable extentupon how wet you get; but, whether65the season be wet or dry, your pleasurewill be regulated largely by thestate of harmony existing betweenthe driver and the bull.

In these quiet secluded nooks successivegenerations of Filipinos areborn, reared, grow old and die inan even chain of events broken onlyby the occasional erection of anew grass house on the identicalspot where its predecessors havestood for ages. The son lives inthe house of his father, cultivatesthe same few square feet of soilplanted in edible roots, climbs thesame cocoanut trees, follows thesame winding path down to thestream, pounds rice in the same mortarand with the same stick that his66ancestors have used from timeunremembered, and, in case of illness,curls up on a grass mat in acorner of the room until he dies orby some good fortune recovers.Beyond this narrow horizon henever looks. So narrow and contractedis the life that the languagesof two towns a few miles apart areso different that one would scarcelyrecognize them as belonging to thesame race of people.

Such are the two extremes of lifein our new far Eastern provinces:the one is active, progressive, andcosmopolitan; the other, inactive,decadent, and narrow; but, whetherone enjoys the first or endures thesecond, there comes to him after67leaving a longing to lounge again intropic airs and listen to the lullabyof the winds among the palms.

68CHAPTER VII.

THE FILIPINO AT HOME.

As one enters a Filipino sitting-roomfor the first time, there is onefeature in the arrangement of thefurniture that impresses itself uponhim at once, and it may be statedwithout fear of serious contradictionthat this same peculiar feature inits arrangement will continue to facehim, as he enters different homes,about as certainly as he crosses thethreshold.

The arrangement referred to isthat of one large mirror, one settee,69and some ten or a dozen chairs thatappear to have had a certain orderlyaffection for one another. The mirroris hung upon one of the largeinterior parts of the house aboutfour feet above the floor. Thewooden houses in the Philippinesare built by setting large postsupright into the ground, extendinginto the air from twentyto thirty feet. Cross timbers arefastened to these upright posts abouteight or ten feet above the groundand then not sawed off even with theposts, but allowed to extend beyondthem each way. The framework ofthe house is built upon theseextending cross timbers, a style ofbuilding by which these large upright70posts are left standing out onthe inside of the room from one tothree feet from the walls. It is onthat one of these posts most nearlyopposite the door that the mirroralways finds its place. Immediatelybeneath the mirror is the settee; andthe chairs are arranged in two parallellines facing one another and atright angles with the ends of the settee.However odd this arrangementmay appear to one when hefirst enters a Filipino drawing-room,there are two things to besaid in its favor. In the first place,it places you face to face with theperson with whom you are conversingso that you can watch him,amatter of no small moment in the71Philippines. In the next place, itenables you to give one of the youngladies a sheeps-eye in the mirrorwhile the others present are leftwhere Moses was in our muchabused conundrum.

The size of the residence and thequality of its furnishings dependsupon the wealth of the owner. Butthere is so vast a difference betweenthe mode of life of the highest classand the tao, or lowest class, that itis well to speak of them separately,and the great middle class of Filipinoscan easily be imagined tooccupy the intervening ground.

The rich Filipinos house is usuallyof wood built upon a wall ofstone or brick from ten to fifteen72feet high. The floors are kepthighly polished in his hallway,dressing-room, and bed-rooms.There are, of course, no fire-placesin any of the rooms, but on someoccasions something is needed todry the rain-soaked atmosphere, foreven in the dry season it has beenseen to rain for five successive daysand nights without the cessation ofa moment.

A long chain of dependents isattached to the household of the richFilipino. The master has his specialbody servant to be present at alltimes to do his masters bidding, inshort, to be the visible mechanismof his masters volition. So, too,the lady of the house has her servant73woman to do the slightest biddingof her ladyship. Then there is thecook who is almost invariably aman, a house boy or two, and thecoachman. These functionaries, withtheir assistants and assistants tothe assistants, together with a servantor two for the exclusive serviceof the children, complete theeconomic household.

Such a family has an abundanceof rice and wheat bread, also ofchicken and fish with occasionalfresh beef. They have also a gooddeal of dulce. They regularly servewine and frequently serve beer ontheir tables.

In strong contrast with this modeof life is that of the tao. His diet74consists almost wholly of rice andsmall uncleaned fish boiled together.As a rule knife, fork, plate, andspoon find no place in his household.The rice and fish are boiledin a pot and then allowed to coolin the same vessel or poured out tocool in a large earthen or woodenbowl. Then Mr. Tao together withMrs. Tao and all the young Taossquat on their heels around the mixtureand satisfy that intangible thingcalled the appetite. They do notuse chop sticks as the Chinese do,but the rice and fish are caught ina hollow formed by the first threefingers of the right hand. Thethumb is then placed behind themass. It is raised up and poised75before the mouth, with a skill comingfrom the evolution of ages, whena contraction of the muscles of thethumb throws the mass into themouth with a skill that is marvelousto any but a Filipino. To judgefrom the most reliable information,the poorest class do not have anabundance of food, although itwould seem that such a conditionof things would be well-nigh impossible.However, in a census of onehundred school children there werefound six boys and four girls whodeclared that they had never hadenough to eat, and the native teacherstated that this was probably true.

The wide gulf between the taoand the rich man is filled by thegreat middle class of Filipinos.

76CHAPTER VIII.

VISIT TO A LEPER COLONY.

Not far from our town was aleper colony and the first Saturdaythat could be spared was set asidefor a trip to the place. It happenedthat none of the other Americanswere at leisure on this particularmorning, but, rather then delay thetrip or miss it altogether, the writer,armed with a revolver, started outalone.

The road had been described soaccurately by one who was supposedto know it that it was deemed well-nigh77impossible to miss the way.The main highway was followed tothe point where the by-path supposedto lead to the settlementturned off through some bamboothickets and a low tropical wood.This path led straight away towardsthe sea-coast where the houses ofthe colony were said to stand in acocoanut grove by the beach.

Upon arriving at the settlement, avery inhospitable reception wasreceived from a mangy cur thatgrowled and showed a very uninvitingset of sharp, white teethbehind his snarling lips. Thegrowling of the dog had attractedthe attention of an old man who,with age-bent back, was pounding78rice in a mortar about fifty yardsaway. He turned slowly around and,upon seeing an intruder into theprimitive quiet of the place, gavea sharp, far-reaching call. Thesound had scarcely rung throughthe grove when from about a dozenof the little grass houses dotted hereand there fifteen or twenty menarmed with bolos came out andgathered around the old man. Asense of my danger flashed upon me.Three miles from town and alonein a tropical jungle, I could bealmost instantly overcome by thisband of bolo-men, and the onlyreport that would ever reach mypeople would be that I had disappeared.Of course, attack was by no79means certain, but the potentialityof the situation was thrilling. Adrawn revolver and the gleaming ofits shining barrel had the effect ofstopping the men, who seemed tobe hesitating as to a course ofaction, until a somewhat dignifiedretreat was made to an open spacein the rear from where a less dignifiedand a more hasty retreat beganwhich did not stop short of Bacalod.

Enough had been seen, however,even in this short visit, to giveconvincing proof that the settlementvisited was no colony of lepers;so, that afternoon two servant boysbeing taken as guides and interpreters,another attempt was madeto reach the goal desired.

80This attempt was successful, and,after about two hours of walking,a little cluster of grass huts snuglyhidden by the sea-coast came intoview. As we approached, one wouldhave thought it a gala-day. Somefew children, apparently from six tothirteen years of age, almost whollynude, were romping and playing inthe open space around which thehuts stood, and no one would everhave thought that any cloud so horribleas leprosy could hover over aplace apparently so happy.

By the side of the path as wepassed was a man and his wife settingout potato plants. His handswere so puffed and his fingers soshort that he could scarcely use81them, but he was working along asbest he could. His wifes feet wereso swollen and twisted that shewalked only with the greatest difficulty.We passed them by andentered the open space above referredto.

The children now saw us, andthose of them who could dartedaway like frightened rabbits, eachto his own burrow. An old manwho was sitting in the warm afternoonsun on the little bamboo platformbefore his hut was arousedfrom his lethargic repose by thescampering away of the children.He arose, trembling upon his totteringlimbs, all drawn and twisted,and hobbled away into his hut.

82The children soon recovered fromtheir fright and began to reappearat the doors of the houses, fromwhich now also came the men andwomen of the settlement. In a fewmoments we were surrounded by acircle of human beings at once sorepulsive and so pitiable that itsgraphic vividness can never be accuratelyportrayed.

The old man referred to above,having put on a pair of snow-whitepantaloons, appeared now at thedoorway of his hut, followed a fewmoments later by his wife who hadevidently clothed herself in the bestraiment she had. At a call from theold man, all the men, women, andchildren in the settlement came out83of their huts and stood in a linebefore us. The old man was spokesmanand in his native visayantongue made a heart-rending appealfor aid which we were powerless togive. Attention was called to aleper woman, apparently abouttwenty-five years of age, whose facehad been attacked by the disease andwhose appearance was truly pathetic.Upon her hip was a childabout a year and a half old and,strange to say, the child showed asyet no signs whatever of the disease.

What an indissoluble enigma islife! Here in a little cluster ofgrass huts in a secluded nook of asecluded island of an all but secludedarchipelago was gathered together84a little community of wretchednatives, driven by their loathsomenessfrom association withothers even of the same half-savagerace. Yet here, men and womenloved and were married, by mutualtrust if not by law, and childrenwere born of the union to live foreverunder the unspeakable horrorthat overshadowed the unfortunateparents. Love, hatred, sorrow, andjoyevery passion that enters intothe complex structure of the humanheart even here, in this scene of sadnessand despair, was playing apparentlyas freely as where misfortuneand disease had never crossed theportals of life.

85CHAPTER IX.

A HIKE.

We were lounging lazily in ourhammocks at Jimamaylan one eveningin April. Supper was justended, and the soldiers in the postwere collected in groups here andthere spinning yarns to pass awaythe time, when a Filipino clad onlyin a loin cloth came down the streetat a steadily swinging run and stoppedin front of the sentry. Hebrought the announcement that aband of ladrones had just burned asugar mill and were advancing to86sack a barrio about fifteen milesaway.

The invitation of the commandingofficer to go on a hike was eagerlyaccepted, and, in ten minutes afterthe message was given, the troopswere on the march followed by twoadventurous pedagogues.

Darkness was just closing in aswe left the town, but a resplendenttropic moon soon made the nightalmost as brilliant as the day. Thetrail we followed led over roughand rocky country. Sometimes fora distance of a mile or more wepassed over barren wastes of volcanicslag poured out in anger bysome peak whose convulsions havelong since ceased. Again we would87descend into a tropical jungle fromthe dense foliage of which theladrones could have leaped at anymoment, had they known of ourcoming, and annihilated our littleband. We forded rapid streamswith the water at our breasts, andhalted only once in that rapid marchof fifteen miles.

About a quarter of a mile fromthe town we met a man who wasstanding guard against a surpriseby the ladrones. Nothing couldwell have been much more grotesqueand nothing could much betterillustrate the absolutely primitivecondition of the Filipinos inthe interior of the islands than theappearance of this guard. A pair88of knee pants, a conical grass hat,and a hemp shirt formed his entireapparel. A long flat wooden shield,a bolo, and a long bamboo spearwith a sharp, flat, iron point, completedhis equipment for battle.

Here stood the first and the twentiethcenturies side by side. TheFilipino who had advanced only astage beyond the condition of primitiveman with his knife, spear, andwooden shield, stood side by sidewith the American soldier, a representativeof modern life with hismagazine rifle, his canteen, his knapsack,withevery article of hisclothing made to give him the highestpossible efficiency as the unit ofa military organization.

89A few yards farther on we metanother guard equipped similarly tothe first. Upon reaching the town,news had just been received that adetachment of troops from anotherpost had intercepted the ladronesand fought a skirmish with them.The ladrones had escaped and weset out in pursuit of them on a chasewilder than a Quixotic dream. Wewound our way into the mountainsbehind the town, inquiring at everygrass hut we passed whether theband of ladrones had passed thatway, but only once was even a traceof them found. Then it was learnedthat at a certain place they hadseparated into groups of three orfour and gone glimmering through90the dream of things that were.This place was in a secludednook of the mountains wherein years gone by some adventurousSpaniard had erected a primitivewater mill to grind his sugar-cane.We had now marched about twentymiles and the feet of the pedagogueswere a mass of blisters. They hadreached the point where that form ofmilitary maneuvering called hikingceased to possess any alluringcharms. So a native was persuadedto come out of his lone mountainhut and hitch up his carabao andcart. He was then made to get onthe carabaos back, while the aforesaidpedagogues lay down on thesugar-cane pulp that had been put91into the body of the cart, andthe driver was instructed tostart for the post we had lefthours before, and not to stopuntil he got there. Being uncertainbut that some of the ladroneswould learn of our having left thebody of troops and would try themetal of our steel, we at first agreedthat neither of us should go to sleep,but it was later decided that probablythe driver had no greater desireto cross the Styx than his passengershad and that in case of danger hewould awaken us, so both took arevolver in each hand, stretched outsupinely and went to sleep.

Such a sleep! The rough joltingof the cart over an almost impassable92road was never enough tobreak the spell of slumber. Whenwe awoke the blazing tropic sun waspast the midday mark of morning,shining full into our unprotectedand well-nigh blistered faces.

A pack of dogs were heraldingour approach to a little village at thefoot of the mountains where ponieswere procured to take us back to thepost.

HAMMONDS PRINTING WORKS, ROANOKE, VA.

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