vip4 brumfullfeb2012 web 43850
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FEBRUARY 983090983088983089983090
Urbane foxSMART AND BRIGHT SPRING TAILORING CLASSIC WATCH AUCTIONS PRIVATE983080ISH983081 JETS
AN AFRICAN RIVER SAFARI 983090983088983089983090rsquoS MUST983085HAVE TECH SPAINrsquoS BORDEAUX983085BEATING WINE
THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK FOR THE CITY
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ldquo1932rdquo COLLECTION
80TH ANNIVERSARY
173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1
SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1
HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY amp WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1
FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005 w w w c h a n e l c o m
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Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter
Patented under-lugs correctors
Secured calendar and
moon-phases mechanism
Ref 6664-3642-55B
wwwblancpaincom
BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA
MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH
0845 273 2500
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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097
Foreword
The City needs to win the debate about
bonuses says David Charters ndash and he
argues it would help if the payments were
viewed as a reward not an entitlement
Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of
the Bentley Continental GT
Beaumonde
News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car
manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski
Championships have a new home
Wine
Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an
unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages
are desirable collectible ndash and cheap
Private jets
A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury
convenience and smart budget management
Technology
Just unveiled the new screen sound and
comms devices you will almost certainly
want to own as soon as they are available
Shooting
Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow
fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns
After the City
How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global
macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his
Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons
FeaturesTravel
The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle
SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but
for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-
edge silhouette look to the fashion houses
Style
Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if
David Hockney were your personal stylist
Watch auctions
A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from
around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks
By George
Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer
who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance
983089983090
983089983093
983089983095
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Contents
Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089
Editor
Joanne Glasbey
Art Director
Dominic Bell
Associate Editor
Henry Farrar-Hockley
Chief Copy Editor
Chris Madigan
Picture Editor
Juliette HedoinCopy Editor
Sarah Evans
Fashion Director
Tamara Fulton
Creative Director
Ian Pendleton
Managing Director
Peter Howarth
Advertising amp Events Director
Duncan McRae
duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom
983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097
showmedianet
brummellshowmedianet
Visit Brummellrsquos website for
more tailor-made content
brummellmagazinenet
Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom
Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk
Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd
and distributed with Financial News All material copy
Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without
written permission is strictly prohibited While every
effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained in this publication no responsibility can
be accepted for any errors or omissions The information
contained in this publication is correct at the time of
going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the
responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show
Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers
Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder
D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r
983092983089
The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits
Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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BRIONI
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4156
TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 356
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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 556
ldquo1932rdquo COLLECTION
80TH ANNIVERSARY
173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1
SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1
HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY amp WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1
FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005 w w w c h a n e l c o m
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 756
Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter
Patented under-lugs correctors
Secured calendar and
moon-phases mechanism
Ref 6664-3642-55B
wwwblancpaincom
BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA
MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH
0845 273 2500
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 956
CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097
Foreword
The City needs to win the debate about
bonuses says David Charters ndash and he
argues it would help if the payments were
viewed as a reward not an entitlement
Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of
the Bentley Continental GT
Beaumonde
News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car
manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski
Championships have a new home
Wine
Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an
unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages
are desirable collectible ndash and cheap
Private jets
A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury
convenience and smart budget management
Technology
Just unveiled the new screen sound and
comms devices you will almost certainly
want to own as soon as they are available
Shooting
Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow
fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns
After the City
How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global
macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his
Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons
FeaturesTravel
The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle
SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but
for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-
edge silhouette look to the fashion houses
Style
Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if
David Hockney were your personal stylist
Watch auctions
A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from
around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks
By George
Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer
who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance
983089983090
983089983093
983089983095
983090983088
983090983090
983090983095
983091983089
983091983092
983091983095
983092983088
983092983092
983093983088
983093983092
Contents
Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089
Editor
Joanne Glasbey
Art Director
Dominic Bell
Associate Editor
Henry Farrar-Hockley
Chief Copy Editor
Chris Madigan
Picture Editor
Juliette HedoinCopy Editor
Sarah Evans
Fashion Director
Tamara Fulton
Creative Director
Ian Pendleton
Managing Director
Peter Howarth
Advertising amp Events Director
Duncan McRae
duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom
983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097
showmedianet
brummellshowmedianet
Visit Brummellrsquos website for
more tailor-made content
brummellmagazinenet
Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom
Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk
Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd
and distributed with Financial News All material copy
Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without
written permission is strictly prohibited While every
effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained in this publication no responsibility can
be accepted for any errors or omissions The information
contained in this publication is correct at the time of
going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the
responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show
Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers
Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder
D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r
983092983089
The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits
Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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ldquo1932rdquo COLLECTION
80TH ANNIVERSARY
173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1
SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1
HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY amp WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1
FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005 w w w c h a n e l c o m
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Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter
Patented under-lugs correctors
Secured calendar and
moon-phases mechanism
Ref 6664-3642-55B
wwwblancpaincom
BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA
MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH
0845 273 2500
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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097
Foreword
The City needs to win the debate about
bonuses says David Charters ndash and he
argues it would help if the payments were
viewed as a reward not an entitlement
Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of
the Bentley Continental GT
Beaumonde
News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car
manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski
Championships have a new home
Wine
Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an
unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages
are desirable collectible ndash and cheap
Private jets
A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury
convenience and smart budget management
Technology
Just unveiled the new screen sound and
comms devices you will almost certainly
want to own as soon as they are available
Shooting
Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow
fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns
After the City
How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global
macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his
Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons
FeaturesTravel
The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle
SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but
for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-
edge silhouette look to the fashion houses
Style
Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if
David Hockney were your personal stylist
Watch auctions
A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from
around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks
By George
Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer
who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance
983089983090
983089983093
983089983095
983090983088
983090983090
983090983095
983091983089
983091983092
983091983095
983092983088
983092983092
983093983088
983093983092
Contents
Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089
Editor
Joanne Glasbey
Art Director
Dominic Bell
Associate Editor
Henry Farrar-Hockley
Chief Copy Editor
Chris Madigan
Picture Editor
Juliette HedoinCopy Editor
Sarah Evans
Fashion Director
Tamara Fulton
Creative Director
Ian Pendleton
Managing Director
Peter Howarth
Advertising amp Events Director
Duncan McRae
duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom
983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097
showmedianet
brummellshowmedianet
Visit Brummellrsquos website for
more tailor-made content
brummellmagazinenet
Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom
Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk
Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd
and distributed with Financial News All material copy
Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without
written permission is strictly prohibited While every
effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained in this publication no responsibility can
be accepted for any errors or omissions The information
contained in this publication is correct at the time of
going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the
responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show
Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers
Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder
D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r
983092983089
The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits
Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556
h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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ldquo1932rdquo COLLECTION
80TH ANNIVERSARY
173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1
SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1
HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY amp WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1
FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005 w w w c h a n e l c o m
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Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter
Patented under-lugs correctors
Secured calendar and
moon-phases mechanism
Ref 6664-3642-55B
wwwblancpaincom
BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA
MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH
0845 273 2500
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 956
CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097
Foreword
The City needs to win the debate about
bonuses says David Charters ndash and he
argues it would help if the payments were
viewed as a reward not an entitlement
Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of
the Bentley Continental GT
Beaumonde
News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car
manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski
Championships have a new home
Wine
Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an
unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages
are desirable collectible ndash and cheap
Private jets
A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury
convenience and smart budget management
Technology
Just unveiled the new screen sound and
comms devices you will almost certainly
want to own as soon as they are available
Shooting
Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow
fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns
After the City
How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global
macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his
Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons
FeaturesTravel
The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle
SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but
for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-
edge silhouette look to the fashion houses
Style
Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if
David Hockney were your personal stylist
Watch auctions
A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from
around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks
By George
Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer
who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance
983089983090
983089983093
983089983095
983090983088
983090983090
983090983095
983091983089
983091983092
983091983095
983092983088
983092983092
983093983088
983093983092
Contents
Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089
Editor
Joanne Glasbey
Art Director
Dominic Bell
Associate Editor
Henry Farrar-Hockley
Chief Copy Editor
Chris Madigan
Picture Editor
Juliette HedoinCopy Editor
Sarah Evans
Fashion Director
Tamara Fulton
Creative Director
Ian Pendleton
Managing Director
Peter Howarth
Advertising amp Events Director
Duncan McRae
duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom
983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097
showmedianet
brummellshowmedianet
Visit Brummellrsquos website for
more tailor-made content
brummellmagazinenet
Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom
Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk
Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd
and distributed with Financial News All material copy
Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without
written permission is strictly prohibited While every
effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained in this publication no responsibility can
be accepted for any errors or omissions The information
contained in this publication is correct at the time of
going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the
responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show
Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers
Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder
D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r
983092983089
The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits
Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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ldquo1932rdquo COLLECTION
80TH ANNIVERSARY
173 NEW BOND STREET - LONDON W1
SELFRIDGES WONDER ROOM - LONDON W1
HARRODS FINE JEWELLERY amp WATCH ROOM - LONDON SW1
FOR ALL ENQUIRIES PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7499 0005 w w w c h a n e l c o m
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Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter
Patented under-lugs correctors
Secured calendar and
moon-phases mechanism
Ref 6664-3642-55B
wwwblancpaincom
BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA
MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH
0845 273 2500
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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097
Foreword
The City needs to win the debate about
bonuses says David Charters ndash and he
argues it would help if the payments were
viewed as a reward not an entitlement
Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of
the Bentley Continental GT
Beaumonde
News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car
manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski
Championships have a new home
Wine
Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an
unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages
are desirable collectible ndash and cheap
Private jets
A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury
convenience and smart budget management
Technology
Just unveiled the new screen sound and
comms devices you will almost certainly
want to own as soon as they are available
Shooting
Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow
fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns
After the City
How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global
macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his
Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons
FeaturesTravel
The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle
SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but
for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-
edge silhouette look to the fashion houses
Style
Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if
David Hockney were your personal stylist
Watch auctions
A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from
around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks
By George
Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer
who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance
983089983090
983089983093
983089983095
983090983088
983090983090
983090983095
983091983089
983091983092
983091983095
983092983088
983092983092
983093983088
983093983092
Contents
Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089
Editor
Joanne Glasbey
Art Director
Dominic Bell
Associate Editor
Henry Farrar-Hockley
Chief Copy Editor
Chris Madigan
Picture Editor
Juliette HedoinCopy Editor
Sarah Evans
Fashion Director
Tamara Fulton
Creative Director
Ian Pendleton
Managing Director
Peter Howarth
Advertising amp Events Director
Duncan McRae
duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom
983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097
showmedianet
brummellshowmedianet
Visit Brummellrsquos website for
more tailor-made content
brummellmagazinenet
Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom
Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk
Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd
and distributed with Financial News All material copy
Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without
written permission is strictly prohibited While every
effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained in this publication no responsibility can
be accepted for any errors or omissions The information
contained in this publication is correct at the time of
going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the
responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show
Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers
Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder
D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r
983092983089
The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits
Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter
Patented under-lugs correctors
Secured calendar and
moon-phases mechanism
Ref 6664-3642-55B
wwwblancpaincom
BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA
MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH
0845 273 2500
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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097
Foreword
The City needs to win the debate about
bonuses says David Charters ndash and he
argues it would help if the payments were
viewed as a reward not an entitlement
Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of
the Bentley Continental GT
Beaumonde
News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car
manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski
Championships have a new home
Wine
Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an
unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages
are desirable collectible ndash and cheap
Private jets
A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury
convenience and smart budget management
Technology
Just unveiled the new screen sound and
comms devices you will almost certainly
want to own as soon as they are available
Shooting
Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow
fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns
After the City
How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global
macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his
Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons
FeaturesTravel
The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle
SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but
for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-
edge silhouette look to the fashion houses
Style
Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if
David Hockney were your personal stylist
Watch auctions
A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from
around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks
By George
Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer
who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance
983089983090
983089983093
983089983095
983090983088
983090983090
983090983095
983091983089
983091983092
983091983095
983092983088
983092983092
983093983088
983093983092
Contents
Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089
Editor
Joanne Glasbey
Art Director
Dominic Bell
Associate Editor
Henry Farrar-Hockley
Chief Copy Editor
Chris Madigan
Picture Editor
Juliette HedoinCopy Editor
Sarah Evans
Fashion Director
Tamara Fulton
Creative Director
Ian Pendleton
Managing Director
Peter Howarth
Advertising amp Events Director
Duncan McRae
duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom
983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097
showmedianet
brummellshowmedianet
Visit Brummellrsquos website for
more tailor-made content
brummellmagazinenet
Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom
Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk
Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd
and distributed with Financial News All material copy
Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without
written permission is strictly prohibited While every
effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained in this publication no responsibility can
be accepted for any errors or omissions The information
contained in this publication is correct at the time of
going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the
responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show
Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers
Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder
D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r
983092983089
The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits
Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556
h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4056
BRIONI
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4156
TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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Villeret CollectionComplete CalendarHalf-Hunter
Patented under-lugs correctors
Secured calendar and
moon-phases mechanism
Ref 6664-3642-55B
wwwblancpaincom
BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUES ABU DHABI middot BEIJING middot CANNES middot DUBAI middot EKATERINBURG middot GENEVA middot HONG KONG middot MACAU middot MADRID middot MANAMA
MOSCOW middot MUMBAI middot MUNICH middot NEW YORK middot PARIS middot SEOUL middot SHANGHAI middot SINGAPORE middot TAIPEI middot TOKYO middot ZURICH
0845 273 2500
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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097
Foreword
The City needs to win the debate about
bonuses says David Charters ndash and he
argues it would help if the payments were
viewed as a reward not an entitlement
Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of
the Bentley Continental GT
Beaumonde
News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car
manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski
Championships have a new home
Wine
Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an
unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages
are desirable collectible ndash and cheap
Private jets
A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury
convenience and smart budget management
Technology
Just unveiled the new screen sound and
comms devices you will almost certainly
want to own as soon as they are available
Shooting
Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow
fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns
After the City
How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global
macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his
Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons
FeaturesTravel
The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle
SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but
for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-
edge silhouette look to the fashion houses
Style
Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if
David Hockney were your personal stylist
Watch auctions
A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from
around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks
By George
Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer
who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance
983089983090
983089983093
983089983095
983090983088
983090983090
983090983095
983091983089
983091983092
983091983095
983092983088
983092983092
983093983088
983093983092
Contents
Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089
Editor
Joanne Glasbey
Art Director
Dominic Bell
Associate Editor
Henry Farrar-Hockley
Chief Copy Editor
Chris Madigan
Picture Editor
Juliette HedoinCopy Editor
Sarah Evans
Fashion Director
Tamara Fulton
Creative Director
Ian Pendleton
Managing Director
Peter Howarth
Advertising amp Events Director
Duncan McRae
duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom
983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097
showmedianet
brummellshowmedianet
Visit Brummellrsquos website for
more tailor-made content
brummellmagazinenet
Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom
Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk
Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd
and distributed with Financial News All material copy
Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without
written permission is strictly prohibited While every
effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained in this publication no responsibility can
be accepted for any errors or omissions The information
contained in this publication is correct at the time of
going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the
responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show
Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers
Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder
D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r
983092983089
The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits
Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097
Foreword
The City needs to win the debate about
bonuses says David Charters ndash and he
argues it would help if the payments were
viewed as a reward not an entitlement
Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of
the Bentley Continental GT
Beaumonde
News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car
manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski
Championships have a new home
Wine
Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an
unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages
are desirable collectible ndash and cheap
Private jets
A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury
convenience and smart budget management
Technology
Just unveiled the new screen sound and
comms devices you will almost certainly
want to own as soon as they are available
Shooting
Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow
fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns
After the City
How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global
macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his
Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons
FeaturesTravel
The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle
SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but
for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-
edge silhouette look to the fashion houses
Style
Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if
David Hockney were your personal stylist
Watch auctions
A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from
around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks
By George
Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer
who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance
983089983090
983089983093
983089983095
983090983088
983090983090
983090983095
983091983089
983091983092
983091983095
983092983088
983092983092
983093983088
983093983092
Contents
Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089
Editor
Joanne Glasbey
Art Director
Dominic Bell
Associate Editor
Henry Farrar-Hockley
Chief Copy Editor
Chris Madigan
Picture Editor
Juliette HedoinCopy Editor
Sarah Evans
Fashion Director
Tamara Fulton
Creative Director
Ian Pendleton
Managing Director
Peter Howarth
Advertising amp Events Director
Duncan McRae
duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom
983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097
showmedianet
brummellshowmedianet
Visit Brummellrsquos website for
more tailor-made content
brummellmagazinenet
Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom
Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk
Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd
and distributed with Financial News All material copy
Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without
written permission is strictly prohibited While every
effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained in this publication no responsibility can
be accepted for any errors or omissions The information
contained in this publication is correct at the time of
going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the
responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show
Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers
Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder
D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r
983092983089
The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits
Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556
h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2756
TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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CONTENTS 983164 BRUMMELL 983088983097
Foreword
The City needs to win the debate about
bonuses says David Charters ndash and he
argues it would help if the payments were
viewed as a reward not an entitlement
Money no object The leaner greener new V8 version of
the Bentley Continental GT
Beaumonde
News Fabergeacute returns to London a British car
manufacturer is reborn and the City Ski
Championships have a new home
Wine
Five years ago Loacutepez de Heredia was an
unfashionably subtle Rioja Now its vintages
are desirable collectible ndash and cheap
Private jets
A new scheme for jet-sharing means luxury
convenience and smart budget management
Technology
Just unveiled the new screen sound and
comms devices you will almost certainly
want to own as soon as they are available
Shooting
Live out your Sharpersquos Rifles Jack Sparrow
fantasies by collecting muzzle-loading guns
After the City
How Olivier Bonnefoy swapped global
macro-products for lsquoproductrsquo with his
Gentlemenrsquos Tonic grooming salons
FeaturesTravel
The luxury riverboat Zambezi Queenoffers safaris from a very different angle
SuitingIt may be bespoke for the personal touch but
for up-to-the-minute fabrics and a cutting-
edge silhouette look to the fashion houses
Style
Tailoring with a bigger splash of colour as if
David Hockney were your personal stylist
Watch auctions
A guide to acquiring classic timepieces from
around pound50 to over pound1m for some Pateks
By George
Angelo Galasso the bold Italian designer
who says wersquore ready for more flamboyance
983089983090
983089983093
983089983095
983090983088
983090983090
983090983095
983091983089
983091983092
983091983095
983092983088
983092983092
983093983088
983093983092
Contents
Show MediaBrummell editorial983088983090983088 983091983090983090983090 983088983089983088983089
Editor
Joanne Glasbey
Art Director
Dominic Bell
Associate Editor
Henry Farrar-Hockley
Chief Copy Editor
Chris Madigan
Picture Editor
Juliette HedoinCopy Editor
Sarah Evans
Fashion Director
Tamara Fulton
Creative Director
Ian Pendleton
Managing Director
Peter Howarth
Advertising amp Events Director
Duncan McRae
duncanflyingcoloursmarketingcom
983088983095983096983089983094 983090983089983096983088983093983097
showmedianet
brummellshowmedianet
Visit Brummellrsquos website for
more tailor-made content
brummellmagazinenet
Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group groupfmgcom
Printed by The Manson Group manson-grpcouk
Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd
and distributed with Financial News All material copy
Show Media Ltd Reproduction in whole or in part without
written permission is strictly prohibited While every
effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information
contained in this publication no responsibility can
be accepted for any errors or omissions The information
contained in this publication is correct at the time of
going to press pound5 (where sold) Reader offers are the
responsibility of the organisation making the offer ndash Show
Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers
Cover illustrationby Brett Ryder
D e s m o n d M u c k l a n A n d y B a r t e r
983092983089
The Notting Hill location for this issuersquos style shoot was designed by architect TchaikChassay for David Hockney When the artist moved to LA Chassay moved in with hiswife Melissa The couple are the subject of one of Hockneyrsquos best known portraits
Tchaik wears glassespound290 Cutler amp Grosslinen jacket pound995 andcotton linen trouserspound550 both BurberryProrsum print shirtpound175 Burberry Brit
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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BRIONI
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4156
TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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Too much was paid out in cash
rather than being held back and
there was a clear and logical
potential for a conflict of interest
Itrsquos that time of year again when we suffer slings and arrows for earning outrageousfortunes We need to win the media war and explain the positive impact we
deliver ndash and also remind ourselves that bonuses are a reward not an entitlement
Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder
Does anyone apart from me want a bonus this year Of course you do We all do If for nothingelse because of all the lsquoArsquo words ndash ambitionavarice and of course awesomeness
The problem is that a whole bunch ofpeople who ought to know better have seizedon the credit crunch as an excuse for paybacktime against all the people they knew atuniversity who have outshone and above allout-earned them by going into the City ratherthan something dodgy and unethical likepolitics or journalism
No one with as many as two brain cells torub together would ever seek to minimise theimpact of the crunch It was huge ndash far biggerthan anything any of us had experienced in ourcareers up to that point And it is undeniablytrue that getting over it will take years andcome at great cost
But demonising an entire industry most ofwhom had not the remotest connection with thevery specific areas that got us all into trouble isintellectually dishonest Other industries havetheir moments too ndash try pharmaceuticals or thenuclear industry or oil and gas ndash but we aresufficiently rational not to interfere with theparameters within which they operate
Investment banking is different Bankersmake better targets than oilmen because whatwe do seems so remote our work (and oftenour successes) so abstract that the rewards we
reap are for many people unacceptable As an industry we have been lamentableat explaining the positive impact that wedeliver And in todayrsquos world winning on thebattlefield is not enough ndash you have to win themedia war as well When politicians fail theyrarely come clean and take responsibilityRegulators and civil servants certainly donrsquot
And of course the media are never wrongSo when something really bad happens the
first priority is to find a scapegoat The idealscapegoat ndash with a big target stuck to his backndash is someone that most other people donrsquot knowor if they do know donrsquot particularly relate tolsquoBankersrsquo as a generic group are ideal The fact
Target praice
that bankers do a myriad different things is aninconvenient detail best swept under the carpet
What many people donrsquot understand iswhy bankers need to be paid in the way they areThat is because most people have never workedas investment bankers and indeed could not ndash orin some cases would rationally decide not togiven the demands and the sacrifices required
Traditionally in a business whererevenues are lumpy and unpredictable everyfirm wants to keep its fixed overheads to aminimum But by the same token in a highlymobile job market significant success for thefirm should be rewarded by equivalent successfor the individual Given the scale of theambitions at work in investment banking ndashand here we really do need to tell the storyof our achievements for governmentscorporates and ultimately society as a whole ndashwe should be incentivising people to aim forthe stars and reward them in a stellar way ifthey deliver To me none of that should becontroversial any more than rewarding stellartalent in other fields
The problem is that we failed as anindustry to implement our own systemproperly If we had stuck to first principlesthen we might not be in the position we are intoday By the time of the crunch the systemthat had led to such huge growth and greatsuccess in investment banking turning the
industry into a massive global talent magnethad become distortedUnhealthy unspoken assumptions had
crept in Bonuses were no longer that ndash adividend a reward ndash but instead wereexpected Top achievers did justifiably well
but the mediocre middle did relatively far toowell Super-managers did astronomically welloften without actually meeting any clients ortaking any trading decisions themselves Toomuch was paid out in cash rather than beingheld back and there was clear and logicalpotential for a conflict of interest between therisk-takers and their owners And no oneshould ever be paid a bonus for unrealisedprofits ndash how crazy is that
So the system we had invented and whichturned us all into tigers had become warpedand distorted It no longer served the interestsit was meant to and when things went wrongit is hardly surprising that we were criticised
But before anyone tries anything tooradical ndash particularly if the anyone in questionhappens to be one of the many who have feltfor years that they had their noses pressedagainst the glass looking in at the gloriousworld of the City ndash can we have a go at sortingthis out ourselves By which I mean doingbonuses properly again
It would mean managers managingtaking tough decisions possibly themselvesagreeing to forego some of what they havecome to regard as their entitlement ndash payfor organisational seniority rather thanrevenues they have generated themselves andperhaps leading once more from the frontThe most impressive bankers that I ever
worked with remained producer-managersto the end regardless of seniority alwayspitching business cultivating clients andoverseeing transactions
If we donrsquot get this right others will do itfor us It may already be too late but at leastletrsquos try and letrsquos engage actively ndash and withhumility ndash with the people who may otherwisemess things up in some cases with the bestand most honourable of intentions If we donrsquottell our story in 2012 no one will
The Egorsquos Nest the fifth novel by David Chartersabout City anti-hero Dave Hart is published byElliott and Thompson price pound699
FOREWORD 983164 BRUMMELL 983089983091
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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TRANSOCEANNAVITIMER CHRONOMAT
BREITLINGCOM
With its Manufacture Caliber 01 Breitling has created the most reliable accurate and top-performance
of all selfwinding chronograph movements ndash entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-
certified by the COSC A perfectly logical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the
absolute benchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs
One heart Three legends
or your nearest stockist in Great Britain and Ireland telephone 020 7637 5167
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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The sleek sporty and ecologically sound new
V8 version of the Bentley Continental GT
Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
BRUMMELL 983089983093
Less could very well be more in the case of the
Bentleyrsquos new Continental GT V8 Those familiar
with the quintessentially British (but German-
owned) marque will know that the original
Continental GT first appeared in 2003 with a vast
six-litre lsquoW12rsquo engine of 567 horsepower which
promised a top speed nudging 200mph The lsquoContirsquo
has proved to be the best-selling Bentley of all time
but now it sits slightly uneasily in our increasingly
ecologically aware world Enter the new four-litre
V8 version The twin-turbo GT V8 is 40 per cent
more fuel-efficient than the W12 yet is still capable
of a licence-losing 180mph and can cover the
0-62mph dash in 49 seconds just three-tenths
slower than its stablemate It remains of course
superbly appointed with an options list as long as
your arm yet at pound122000 the lsquobasicrsquo V8 costs 10
per cent less than the equivalent W12 ndash although
the latter will remain available for those who
still canrsquot accept that size really doesnrsquot matterhellip
Available at HR Owen hrowencouk
bentleymotorscom
MONEY NO
OBJECT
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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T H E 4 8 L I T R E P L U S 8
Car pictured 48litre Morgan Plus 8 Fuel economy 252mpg (Combined) CO2 269grkm Price pound71000+VAT
The new Morgan Plus 8 makes use of technologyfrom the aircraft industry to achieve an unladenweight of 1150kgs This makes the car the lightestV8 passenger car in the world One of the stiffestin its class The aluminium chassis braces themighty BMW V8 coupled to a six speed manual orautomatic gearbox With a truly coachbuilt bodyhandcrafted onto this the car can then be builtbespoke to your taste down to the last detail
Superbly responsive the car is the ideal companionon country and urban roads You can have all the funpossible in a car with a clear conscience that impacton nature is kept at a minimum
For more information please visitwwwmorgan-motorcouk
Photo courtesy of Magic Car Pics
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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NEWS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983089983095
Hand-picked holiday homes masterpieces of photography and the finest footwear
Ski hereFor many City ski enthusiasts
mid-March has for the past 10 years
or so meant a trip to Courmayeur in
Italyrsquos Aosta Valley for the City Ski
Championships However this yearrsquos
event is at a new destination and part
of the Momentum Ski Festival in
Crans Montana Switzerland with
comedy and music adding to the
on-slope fun Performing at the
Momentum Ski Festival will be some
of the UKrsquos best stand-up comediansincluding TV and BBC Radio 4 stars
Marcus Brigstocke and Rufus
Hound with music from The Feeling
Crans Montana is the coming resort
in Switzerland and has seen a lot of
development ndash mainly in the building
of five-star hotels and luxury chalets
The ski area is topped with a glacier
running into an open bowl and
descending into interesting tree runs
Itrsquos a lot of fun ndash very much like the
nightlife 15-18 March Packages
from pound665pp for three days
momentumskifestivalcom
Home from home
SJ Villas is a personalised service that
specialises in beautiful holiday home
rentals round the globe chosen by the
duo running the company They say they
turn down more properties than they list
claiming to be lsquovery pickyrsquo Which is good
news for those with no time to trawl the
internet you can be sure that each
property is of the highest standard inlocation accommodation services and
every luxury Whether you want to stay in
The Beach House in Koh Samui ndash an
elegant and sophisticated beachfront
home pictured ndash or Casa Diana in the
Dominican Republic ndash a colonial-style
villa five minutes by golf cart from a PGA
course you can be assured of top quality
all through the experience sjvillascouk
Horse playAs suggested by its name Breitlingrsquos Colt
ndash newly redesigned ndash offers a fresh youthful
and dynamic style balanced with sturdiness
and comfort Available in three versions ndash
including a chronograph ( pictured above) and
a wonenrsquos watch ndash the Colt offers water
resistance to 300 metres or 500 metres
Sophisticated sporty and playful a winning
combination for a spirited character pound3110
breitlingcom
Auto revival
The most dedicated petrolhead could beforgiven for finding themselves unfamiliar with
Atalanta Motors but the British car
manufacturer that sank without trace in 1939
after just two years of production is making
a comeback Businessman and classic car
enthusiast Martyn Corfield bought the rights to
the Atalanta name and will launch a limited run
of brand new cars in March this year lsquoThe story
of Atalanta Motors needs to be toldrsquo says
Corfield lsquoIt was a company that was ahead of
its time but stopped dead by the outbreak of
warrsquo The design will remain faithful to the
elegant Thirties originals but thankfully there
has been a full under-the-hood overhaul Prices
from pound80000 atalantamotorscom
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556
h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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Eversquos eyeThe late great Eve Arnold was a pioneering
photographer whose oeuvre was truly diverse
and magical A retrospective of her work is
taking place at Art Sensus next month
presenting over 100 images All About Eve
offers a wide range of work drawn from herpersonal archive including photographs of
Marilyn Monroe portraits of other Hollywood
legends and many political figures often taken
in her work for The Sunday Times Magazine and
for Magnum agency It also outlines Arnoldrsquos
extensive travels and insatiable curiosity about
the world and its people In the accompanying
book almost half of the images have been rarely
seen Prints of her work are still available and
very collectable All About Eve is at Art Sensus
2 Marchndash27 April artsensuscom
Well shodThey say you can judge a man by the shoes hersquos
wearing and if this widely held belief has you
shaking in last seasonrsquos boots you had better
pay a visit to Justin Deakin Yoursquoll find his shop
situated on east Londonrsquos Hanbury Street where
Deakin takes on the best of British Chelsea
boots brogues and loafers receive his renowned
attention to detail shape style and quality And
as all his shoes are made in England (even the
tassels and silks are UK-sourced) yoursquoll be
sure to leave a small yet stylish carbon footprint
justindeakincom
Art beatTEFAF Maastricht is known as the
worldrsquos leading art and antiques fair
giving visitors a unique chance to
view and to buy works from artists
as diverse as Renoir and Anish
Kapoor as well as objects reflecting
7000 years of excellence in the
decorative arts (even BMW Art
Cars such as the Jeff Kons edition
pictured ) A distinctive feature of
TEFAF is elegantly displayed genuine
masterpieces offered by more than260 prestigious art and antiques
dealers from 18 countries The fair
has led the way in establishing proper
vetting procedures 29 committees
made up of over 170 experts in
every field of art represented at the
fair verify each and every object for
quality authenticity and condition so
visitors always buy with confidence
To celebrate its silver jubilee this
year TEFAF also has an exhibition
of master drawings including works
by Leonardo da Vinci Rubens and
Rembrandt 16-25 March tefafcom
BEAUMONDE 983164 NEWS983089983096
HISTORIC RETURN
Iconic jewellery house Fabergeacute
has returned to London with a
brand new flagship store on
Mayfairrsquos Grafton Street
Famous historically for its
precious eggs embellished with
exquisite enamel and fancystones Fabergeacute now produces a
range of handmade menrsquos and
womenrsquos watches in addition to
fine jewellery Particularly
special is a limited collection of
egg pendants in 60 different
designs featuring rose gold and
diamond detailing An opulent
love token indeed fabergecom
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556
h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 2556
h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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BEAUMONDE 983164 WINE983090983088
more difficult to sell How times change Over the
last two or three years Loacutepez de Herediarsquos flagship
single-vineyard wines have become the most
unlikely global cult wines among collectors and
sommeliers Meanwhile general manager Mariacutea-
Joseacute Loacutepez de Heredia great-granddaughter
of the founder finds herself hosting vertical
tastings in Miami Tokyo or London
Mariacutea-Joseacute is delighted by her familyrsquos new-found fame Not least because they compromised
none of their principles in order to achieve it lsquoWe
never set out to be fashionable We simply wanted
to make the best wines we can wines that are true
to our heritage and terroir We havenrsquot changed
at all It is the market that has come back to usrsquo
Not that long ago the wines of Loacutepez de
Heredia were astonishingly cheap Now with
collectors clamouring for them they are moving
up in price Even so they still represent remarkable
value when compared to some neighbours and an
absolute steal compared to Cru Classe Bordeaux
Further good news for its ever-increasing fan
base is that Loacutepez de Heredia still has plenty of
vintages in its magnificent fungus-covered cellars
ndash largely due to the previous lack of demand There
are reportedly several hundred thousand bottles
of Gran Reservas alone going back to the 1885
A number of these are commercially available
from the bodega itself including the legendary rsquo64
at euro600 a bottle or the rsquo42 (closer to euro1000)
Reserva and Crianza wines can be picked up much
more cheaply At a recent Christiersquos sale a case
of the rsquo64 Tondonia Crianza went for just pound800
Younger vintages are in more plentiful
supply In the UK Berry Bros amp Rudd offer
several vintages including the relatively recently
released 1991 Vina Bosconia Gran ReservaTinto at pound95 a bottle According to the critic
Stephen Tanzer lsquoFor this much complexity in
aged Burgundy yoursquod pay twice as muchrsquo
Berry Bros amp Rudd is also listing several
other wines including the rsquo87 and rsquo91 Tondonia
Blanco Gran Reservas for pound95 and pound65 apiece
However therersquos no hurry to drink them up as
these unique wines will age as well as any great
white Graves According to Mariacutea-Joseacute lsquothe
Gran Reserva whites will peak at around 50
years of agersquo The reds take even longer
In the last two years London wine merchant
The Sampler has begun selling an exciting and
ever-changing range of traditional fully mature
Riojas going back to the Twenties Many of thewines come direct from bodegasrsquo own cellars and
include some of Riojarsquos most famous names such
as La Rioja Alta Paternina Contino Berberana
Riscal Murrieta and Carlos Serres as well as
Loacutepez de Heredia According to The Samplerrsquos
Jamie Hutchinson one of the reasons for their
popularity is value for money lsquoWine-lovers like
the fact that they can buy a great 20-30 year
old wine for as little as pound30-pound40 a bottle Right
now sales of the older vintages are out-stripping
the younger vintages by 10 to onersquo
lopezdeherediacom bbrcom christiescom
thesamplercouk
Words John Stimpfig
When Spainrsquos winemakers
turned up the dial on fruit and
tannin and alcohol one bodegarejected the trend After two
decades in the wilderness it is
now the toast of connoisseurs
Rioja of ages
Anyone visiting the historic region of Rioja
cannot fail to be struck by the remarkable
number of dramatic cutting-edge lsquostatementrsquo
wineries which dot its rugged landscape One is
the brilliantly mesmeric Ysios Bodega near
Laguardia another is Frank Gehryrsquos fabulous
hotel and winery at Marques de Riscal in Elciego
But arguably the most distinctive of all the
bodegas is ancient rather than contemporaryFounded in 1877 and situated in the Rioja Alta
capital Haro Loacutepez de Herediarsquos only lsquostatement
architecturersquo is a funky little tasting room designed
by Zaha Hadid Otherwise almost nothing has
changed in a century or more Least of all its
ultra-traditional methods of winemaking
Over the last two decades while the rest of
Rioja rushed to make fashionable alta-expresion
reds ndash full of power alcohol fruit and tannin ndash
Loacutepez de Heredia did the opposite It remained
true to its roots and carried on producing the
most exquisitely elegant aged red (as well as
white and roseacute) Riojas Many thought this was
commercial suicide as the wines became ever
WINE OF THE TIMESClockwise from below Loacutepezde Herediarsquos original 1877bodega the label of the great1942 vintage Zaha Hadidrsquostasting room pays respectto the vineyardrsquos heritage
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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BEAUMONDE 983164 PRIVATE JETS983090983090
Victor members can buy single seats on a private
jet that is already flying at a time and to a
destination that is also of interest to them Thoseusing Victor to charter a private jet can sell spare
seats on it be it when theyrsquore travelling or on the
otherwise unused leg Having chosen my route
and date on the site my particular flight for
instance comes up as costing around pound750
By logging in to the site Victor members can
see what flights by private jet are going where
and can register their interest in buying a seat
The more who fly on a plane the lower the price
per seat and the more who join Victor the
greater availability of seats on the site
The name which Jackson the marketer
thought carefully about is more than an airline
call sign lsquoItrsquos about playing and winning in this
case getting the best deal on a flightrsquo he explainsA jet charterer receives an email informing them
when a seat has been sold lsquoSo instead of
paying say pound6000 for their aircraft it could
now only be pound2000 Itrsquos a nice little bonusrsquo
Private jet travel is convenient and
luxurious ndash thatrsquos a given But now
thanks to an innovative flight-sharing
company it can mean value too
Air supply
Victor makes its money from a 30 per cent
commission on this fee plus a five per cent charge
per sale Jackson has funded the business himselffrom its concept and now following a successful
soft launch last summer he is seeking to raise
another pound15m to accelerate Victorrsquos expansion
Already there are just over 700 members and the
potential for 441000 route combinations as the
system develops and more jet charterers use it
Jackson claims that he is lsquodemocratising
private jet usersquo but isnrsquot exclusivity the whole point
of this mode of travel Well 87 per cent of Victorrsquos
clients say they are happy to share their cabin
space (not just take advantage of an empty leg)
And Jackson believes that even more charterers
will come to understand that accommodating other
passengers can save considerable sums while still
offering private jet travelrsquos freedom and flexibility lsquoIt also depends who yoursquore travelling with
ndash some members are happy to talk to like-
minded individuals others might be thrilled to
be seated alongside a world famous golfer or
mountaineerrsquo he says lsquoOthers might just say
hello and then politely ignore each otherrsquo
Certainly the Victor member whose jet
Jackson and I used to reach Palma and which
would otherwise have flown down to the island
empty is not averse to sharing lsquoIrsquod have no
objectionrsquo he says lsquoand if it brings in a bit of
extra cash then thatrsquos all to the goodrsquo
flyvictorcom
Words SImon Brooke
Clive Jackson has owned a holiday home in
Mallorca for some years Thanks to a BMI flight
from Heathrow he and his wife have escaped tothe island whenever possible So when BMI
cancelled its service he was not best pleased But
unlike many who might simply grumble Jackson
who has made millions in digital marketing
decided to do something about it
lsquoI was sitting with a group of other regulars
and I asked them ldquoWhat can we do about thisrdquo
he remembers lsquoThe man sitting next to me
suggested that we charter a plane but that
would cost around pound8000 and wersquod have to
know that we all wanted to use it the same timersquo
Convinced that there must be an alternative
Jackson began to research the demand for flights
to Mallorca By January 2010 he believed that
there were sufficient numbers to merit some kind ofservice albeit not a conventional scheduled route
lsquoI didnrsquot want to start an airline but I realised
that the solution was a platform that allowed
people to see in real time how many others
might want to charter a planersquo he says This
platform is called Victor Describing itself as lsquoan
online community of people with a shared desire
to use private jetsrsquo Jacksonrsquos new venture is a
sort of very high-end eBay and price comparison
site with a social media element which makes
using private aviation more affordable than the
traditional business of simply chartering a private
jet by allowing those affluent travellers who are
willing to share a private aircraft to do so
Someone chartering a jet can
sell spare seats on ithellip so
instead of paying say pound6000
it could now only be pound2000
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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Paradise Found
Petite Anse Bay on the south west coast of Mahe is the location for one
of the worldrsquos finest and most exclusive beaches The three- to six-bedroom
freehold Four Seasons Private Residences nestle amid secluded plots
averaging one hectare
Each villa is uniquely designed by the internationally acclaimed architectCheong Yew Kuan to harmonise with the dramatic granite landscape and
panoramic ocean views Owners can take advantage of the Concierge Service
and the extensive facilities at the renowned Four Seasons Resort Seychelles
set in the middle of the 70 hectare estate
Prices from US$7250000
LONDON +44 20 8166 8122salespetiteansedevelopmentscomwwwpetiteansedevelopmentscom
-VY LHZVUZ 7YP]H[L 9LZPKLUJLZ L`JOLSSLZ HYL UV[ V^ULK KL]LSVWLK VY ZVSK I` -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK VY P[Z HMAumlSPH[LZ -VY LHZVUZ OL KL]LSVWLY 7L[P[L (UZL +L]LSVWTLU[Z 3[K ZLZ [OL -VY LHZVUZ [YHKLTHYRZ HUK [YHKLUHTLZ UKLY H SPJLUZL MYVT -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ
HUK 9LZVY[Z (ZPH 7HJPAumlJ 7[L 3[K OL THYRZ -6lt9 (65sup1 -6lt9 (65 63 (5+ 969sup1 HU JVTIPUH[PVU [OLYLVM HUK [OL YLL +LZPNU HYL YLNPZ[LYLK [YHKLTHYRZ VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ 3PTP[LK PU HUHKH HUK lt( HUK VM -VY LHZVUZ V[LSZ )HYIHKVZ 3[K LSZL^OLYL
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 3756
TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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h a c k e t t c o m
Hackett Mayfair represents the very best in design
and tailoring Offering luxury from top to toe theHackett Mayfair collection is synonymous with
contemporary city style blending formal luxury
with modernity for todayrsquos gentleman and his
lifestyle Inspired by classic style icons from early
1960s London the Hackett Mayfair cut has an
overall lsquotrimrsquo aesthetic and is recognised by the
symbol of a bowler hat with crossed umbrellas 991251 a wry
gentlemanrsquos take on the iconic skull and crossbones
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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30 years of ldquoin-houserdquoexpertise in providing
Aircraft Evaluation
Aircraft Acquisition Trained Aircrew
Financial Management
Operational Management
Regulatory Compliance
Aircraft Maintenance
Visit wwwhamlinjetcom call +44 (0)1582 726760 or email mikehamlinhamlin jetcomHamlin Jet Ltd Hanger 125 London Luton Airport LU2 9PA
The best airline in the world
is your own forallamp forallexist( forallforall
Ownership of a private jet gives youthe most civilised and time efficientmeans of transport
At Hamlin Jet absolutely every service you needboth before and after purchase is provided for
you in a friendly and personalised way
With an enviable reputation built over the lastthirty years you can be sure Hamlin Jet is theright choice
All you have to do is enjoy the flight
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983095
THE POWER LISTFresh from this yearrsquos Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegaswe select the technology you should know about in the coming months
from intelligent television screens to a computer made of glass
Words Henry Farrar-Hockley
Samsung ES8000If this yearrsquos key trend is the so-called lsquosmart
TVrsquo then the movementrsquos flag bearer isarguably this Minority Report -inspired LED
screen from Samsung The ES8000 uses the
same dual-core processors found in PCs to
allow you to switch quickly between say Twitter
and Top Gear while a built-in webcam provides
two distinct benefits over and above the usual
video calls to Australian relatives The first is a
facial recognition feature that identifies
the viewer then automatically loads up your
favourite apps channels and multimedia
content The second allows users to bypass the
remote and change channels find programme
information and adjust the volume via voice
commands or simply by waving your hand Last
but not least a discreet slot on the back of theset permits future hardware upgrades without
having to buy another TV set
Price yet to be announced samsungcomuk
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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FujiFilm X-Pro1In 2011 Fujirsquos X100 made waves a fixed-lens
camera it provided the optimal blend of vintage
styling and bleeding-edge technology It had the
clout of a much larger SLR but also the portability
and aesthetics of an old Leica This year the
concept has been advanced The X-Pro1 is the
first X series camera to offer interchangeable
lenses as well as an improved 16MP light sensor
that manages exceptional colour reproduction
From around pound1100 fujifilmeuuk
Invoxia NVX 610French technology start-up Invoxia has combined
the best elements of mobile internet and landline
telephony with its polished smart desktop phoneA plug-and-play device with no long-winded set-up
or line rental it operates via both iPhone and VOIP
services such as Skype With eight microphones
built into the base to allow crystal-clear conference
calls and a traditional handset design letting you
make calls and access iCalendar simultaneously
itrsquos ideal for business pound499 invoxiacom
Parrot Zik by StarckThese over-the-ear noise-cancelling
headphones effectively eradicate two common
personal-audio gripes First thanks toBluetooth therersquos no dangly cabling Second
a simple gesture-based control system makes
a fiddly remote control panel unnecessary
To turn up the volume run a finger up the
outside of the earcup to change tracks just
drag your digit left or right Even better the
music only starts playing when you put the
headphones on and stops when you remove
them again Price TBA parrotcomuk
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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TECHNOLOGY 983164 BEAUMONDE 983090983097
Arcam rPacA drawback of PCs is a lack of sound performance
yet they are typically where we store our music
Hence Cambridge-based audiophiles Arcamrsquos
little black box the rPac A combination digital-to-
analogue converter and headphone amplifier the
USB-powered device gives depth and clarity to
your Macrsquos or PCrsquos tinny lifeless audio This
sonic nirvana can either be outputted to a hi-fi
system or headphones and the box is slim enough
to fit in a laptop case pound150 arcamcouk
BampO Play Beolit 12Bang amp Olufsen launches its lsquohigh streetrsquo sub-brand Play
with the covetable Beolit 12 AirPlay speaker Designed by
outsider Cecilie Manz ndash whose products have turned up
everywhere from Georg Jensen to the set of cult TV series
Forbrydelsen ndash this diminutive sound system uses three
concealed speakers powered by a 120-watt digital amplifier
It is built to travel too with a compartment to store cables
leather carry handle and a built-in battery that musters eight
hoursrsquo use from a single charge Price TBA beoplaycom
HP Envy 14 SpectreThe vaunted Ultrabook laptop niche has been
gathering momentum this year and HPrsquos glossy
new model is a prime example of this emerging
category that promises equal doses of power
and portability The first talking point is purely
aesthetic the lid is made of highly resistant
lsquoGorilla Glassrsquo (a pleasing design quirk that
continues on to the backlit keyboard) Other
key specs include a borderless 14in screen
Intel Core i5 processor NFC contactless
technology and 128GB of solid-state storage
From around pound1200 hpcomuk
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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57 - 58 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET
LONDON W1K 2ED
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
wwwpurdeycom
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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DUEL CONTROLA cased pair of 40-boreflintlock duelling pistolsby Joseph Mantoncirca 1815 whichsold for pound18000
GUNS 983164 BEAUMONDE 983091983089
Find pheasant shooting a little
ho hum Try a mighty muzzle-
loader for maximum effect
SHOT
AND AWE
The average Kalashnikov weighs in at about
115lbs is 34 inches long and fires between
600 and 650 rounds a minute In terms of useitrsquos an easy tool compared to the weaponry
Wellingtonrsquos soldiers were brandishing at the
Battle of Waterloo
The early 19th-century British infantrymanrsquos
stock firearm the Brown Bess fired ndash if you were
really quick ndash three rounds a minute and was up
to 62 inches long Thatrsquos about five inches less
than the height of an average soldier It was
undoubtedly a gun for those of a robust spirit
yoursquod need arms of steel to wield and load it for
hours on end in a close-fought battle In 2012
it is also one of a select group of firearms ndash
muzzle-loaders ndash that you can buy and keep in
the UK without having to hold any form of licence
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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SHOOTING STARSFrom top A pair of 28 bore double-barrelled percussion travelling pistolsby J Lang circa 1830 one of a pairof 38 bore Silesian flintlock holster pistolswhich sold for pound12000 part of a pairof 22 bore silver-mounted flintlock pistolsby Barbar circa 1770
BEAUMONDE 983164 GUNS983091983090
Muzzle-loading guns consist of pistols muskets
and rifles As the name suggests they are
loaded by manually wedging gunpowder (or
black powder as it used to be known) a bullet
and wadding down the barrel At face valuethey may sound rather an odd investment
vehicle but as Thomas Del Mar one of the
countryrsquos top antique armoury specialists
points out lsquoAny antique firearm is exempt from
capital gains tax because it has moving parts
and is thus classified as a machinersquo
As a general rule of thumb industry
insiders advise that firearms increase in value
at five to 10 per cent above inflation Moreover
muzzle loaders made by the great makers such
as Manton and Purdey have an extra rarity
value Created with extreme skill they often
feature extraordinary embellishments
David Williams of Bonhams observes that
while these weapons may have been built fora grimly practical purpose in their day their
aesthetic value now earns them a place among
the applied arts lsquoTheyrsquore beautifully decorated
and made Itrsquos why most museums have a
gallery dedicated to arms and armoury Theyrsquore
works of art in their own rightrsquo
As such they can come with quite
substantial price tags At its next auction in
April Bonhams is selling a pair of rare
18th-century pistols with solid silver barrels
and locks with an estimated value of
pound40000-pound60000 At Thomas Del Marrsquos
June sale in conjunction with Sothebyrsquos there
are over 200 antique firearms for auction with
prices ranging from as little as pound200 up to
pound30000 For example a Brown Bess in good
condition and with a Waterloo provenance may
set you back pound5000 A decent pair of English
duelling pistols ndash which were often given bywomen to their fianceacutes as wedding presents ndash
can cost from pound6500
You can actually fire these guns but it wonrsquot
do their value or their condition a great deal of
good As soon as you want to pull the hefty
trigger itrsquos mandatory to acquire a firearms
licence and join one of the muzzle-loading clubs
approved by the Home Office One such is the
Muzzle Loaders Association of Great Britain
where trainer Andrew Grimmett reckons that he
can get most people managing to shoot pretty
accurately and loading safely by the end of one
day Yoursquoll probably only manage one shot every
four minutes and itrsquoll take you some time to get
used to the fog of black smoke engulfing yourhead every time you fire but if nothing else it
surely has to beat the repetition of shooting at
endless pheasants
If yoursquore interested in buying a muzzle-loader at
auction Thomas Del Mar Ltd (thomasdelmarcom)
has sales on 27 June and 7 December
Bonhams (bonhamscom) has them on 18 April
18 July and 28 November and Christiersquos
(christiescom) on 26 June Go to Henry Krank
amp Co (henrykrankcom) to buy reproduction
weapons And to learn to shoot muzzle-loaders
contact the Muzzle Loaders Association of
Great Britain (mlagbcom)
Words Eloise Napier
Theyrsquore beautifullydecorated and made Itrsquos
why most museums have
a dedicated arms gallery
I m a g e s c o u r t e s y o f T h o m a s D e l M a r L t d
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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Bell amp Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 informationbellrosscom e-Boutique wwwbellrosscom
HERITAGE COLLECTION
AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm
VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm
E V O L U T I O N O F T H E B R M I L I T A R Y W A T C H
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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BEAUMONDE 983164 AFTER THE CITY983091983092
Olivier Bonnefoy traded in global
macroproducts for menrsquos grooming
and hit on a winner with his no-
nonsense Gentlemenrsquos Tonic salons
Tonic
boom
Recently Olivier Bonnefoy overheard two men
discussing waxing in Waitrose lsquoTwo straight
guys who were quite happy to have thatconversation in a supermarketrsquo he says with
the tone of a man vindicated As founder
of menrsquos grooming salon Gentlemenrsquos Tonic
he was at least partially responsible for the
conversation lsquoWhen we opened seven years
ago men would never divulge where they go for
a massage or waxrsquo he says lsquobut now theyrsquore
more frank when talking about these things
Yoursquove got scrubs being advertised during the
football ndash not shaving creams scrubsrsquo
Smart fast-talking and supremely
engaged Bonnefoy 38 is still on a mission A
Frenchman raised on the American East Coast
until eight years ago he was in global macro-
products at the London branch of French bank
Fimat International lsquorunning a desk that
suggested trading commodities governmentbonds and so on to clients It was huge fun but
I was very keen to create something create
a brandrsquo He settled on menrsquos grooming having
looked into a variety of industries mainly in the
food and beverage arenahellip bars nightclubs
and restaurants It came less from passion than
hard figures ndash cheaper set-up costs no
competition and the fact that men here have
long spent more on grooming than in any other
country ndash but masculine intuition had something
to do with the concept of a city spa dedicated
for men a Soho House version of the traditional
Mayfair barberrsquos lsquoThere was the fine tradition
of Trumperrsquos and the rest who had been around
for 150-some years but they only offered so
much and there was a scare factor for them to
offer more We knew men were going to unisex
establishments and feeling awkward so we
created a place that made them feel comfortablersquo
Hence the sedate and grown-up haven
of green walls and light wood hidden behind
discreetly frosted glass in which we talk Here
located just off Berkeley Square haircuts
wet shaves massages and skin treatments are
briskly undertaken by staff who wonrsquot chatterabout your holiday plans but will mix you a
Bloody Mary There are showers in every
treatment room no wandering around in robes
and no hanging around waiting lsquoMen want an
efficient clean service an instant fix and they
are creatures of habit they want somewhere
they can come back to again and againrsquo
There were doubters at first but Bonnefoy
had research and timing on his side lsquoWhen we
first set out people were talking about the
ldquometrosexualrdquo using examples like David
Beckham and that helped but it was clear that in
this country men just needed a bit more of an
outletrsquo He was also aware that there were plenty
of others who wanted it too lsquoI donrsquot think I couldhave found a better city if Irsquod triedrsquo he says lsquoNot
only does London have all the heritage but itrsquos
the most international city in the worldrsquo
There are now three salons in the capital ndash
the others are in Savile Row (inside Gieves amp
Hawkes) and at Selfridges keeping to the same
beat since thatrsquos where the demand is ndash and a
Hong Kong branch opened in 2011 Doha and
New Delhi are next The global perspective
says Bonnefoy is a hangover from his banking
years lsquoI keep up with the finance world I have
to The first 150 clients we had
in Hong Kong were bankers whorsquod moved from
London We knew that our clients were
emigrating thatrsquos why we wentrsquoMuch of his time is now spent abroad
preparing for new ventures the New Delhi
branch will encompass a private membersrsquo
club There is also an ever-expanding product
range though Bonnefoy is aware of his clientelersquos
limits even those who are ready to discuss waxing
in Waitrose He tells a story about a large
corporation who came to him about a new product
lsquoIt was a pre-cleanser cleanser I said ldquoDo you
really think sordquo Men are looking for simplicity
for routine You over-complicate that routine
and you have a problemrsquo
gentlemenstoniccom
Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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Conta Argento Fine Produs T 020 7722 24 38 wwwfrederique-con983040antcom
Live passion your w1048576h Maxime Manufaure
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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Pisa approximately 983092983093 minutes Florence and Siena approximately 983089 hour
Toscana Resort Castelfalfi is a 983089983089983088983088 hectare estate set around a stunning
historic lsquoborgorsquo Beautiful apartments traditional farmhouses and a selection
of new build vi llas Overlooking an established 983090983095-hole golf course the borgo
wil l also include a boutique hotel restaurant pizzeria and range of shops
Apartments from 991404983090983091983088983088983088983088 (due for completion May 983090983088983089983091)
Villas from 991404983089983090983088983088983088983088983088
Traditional farm houses ndash price on application
A TUSCAN DREAM
983096983088983088 YEAR S IN THE MAK ING
WWWCA S TEL FA L F I CO UK
55 Baker Street London W1U 8AN+44 (0)20 7629 8171rupertfawcettknightfrankcom
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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TRAVEL 983164 BRUMMELL 983091983095
traditional lodges for minimalist chic lineardesign and vast windows less Out of Africa than lsquoout of Manhattanrsquo
An air of sophisticated nonchalancemight suit the boatrsquos contemporary vibe Butas I board at the isolated custom post ofKasane in the north of Botswana my eyeswiden at what the owners call lsquowild Africawith whistles and bellsrsquo One half of the topdeck has the crisp elegance of a cityrestaurant the other is more metropolitan
cocktail bar all cream suede sofas club chairsand stainless steel stools around a counter ofwhite Italian marble
Itrsquos not total design fascism Nguni cattleskins and huge mesmerising paintings ofzebra eyes are stylish low-key reminders ofour location Both ends of the eclectic spaceopen onto sun decks one sporting a plungepool with an angular design worthy ofPhilippe Starck Itrsquos either marvellouslymodern or if yoursquore a dyed-in-the-wooltraditionalist utterly baffling
After a night serenaded by cicadas andlaughing hyena we start with a four-wheelsafari among the 120000 elephants of Chobe
River wildA contemporary floating safari lodge offers a
unique vantage point for watching African wildlife
Words Ian Belcher
I could be dreaming Irsquom not but I could beThe world has a sublime ethereal quality Irsquovebeen awake for mere seconds and withnothing more exacting than a raised eyelid Ican see 30 perhaps 40 elephants Theyrsquore justacross the river from my open window drinkingwith gusto in the soupy light of an African dawn
As hippos grunt and fish eagles shriekI sit up in bed plump my pillow and immediatelyspot five more of the herd ambling down to thewater Short of watching an Attenborough
documentary from my sofa this is the laziestsafari on earth
Itrsquos also one of the most stylish Irsquomswaddled by high-thread count cotton sheetsin a light white bright bedroom with floor-to-ceiling windows and walls studded withmonochrome photographs Nothing shoutsEverythingrsquos understated But for the savannahbreeze it could be Londonrsquos Hempel Hotel
Itrsquos one of 14 en-suite cabins on the Zambezi Queen a converted casino boat nowcruising the Chobe River ndash a relentless ink-dark current bisecting the plains of Botswanaand Namibia It has traded the ubiquitousdark wood tribal regalia and ethnic kitsch of
AFRICAN QUEENFrom top View over Botswana at sunset from the foredeckof the Zambezi Queen the former casino boat with its 14cabins floats serenely along the Chobe River
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
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BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
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BRUMMELL 983164 TRAVEL983091983096
National Park The wildlife is prolific ndash withouta hint of stage fright ndash and our drive climaxes withthe sound of lions gorging on freshly butcheredwarthog lsquoItrsquos definitely a killrsquo whispers ourguide Boata lsquoI heard the crunch of bonesrsquo
Itrsquos an incongruous environment toexperience the Zambezi Queenrsquos startling granddesign But if I need conclusive proof that wereally are in the sticks it comes from The Voice newspaper a suicide victim has reappeared asa zombie dog a chicken wearing a necklacehas been arrested imprisoned and executed (Isuppose it could happen in Norfolk) and a
Cheryl Cole lookalike has given birth to achild fathered by a snake
Lifersquos a tad saner on board We head weston the second afternoon of the three-nightcruise and washed by a warm tropical breezethe deck mutates into a Balearic beach barThe plunge poolrsquos packed bikini-clad guestsrecline on sun loungers and a dude in surfshorts strums a guitar Chilled Tafel beer andfine Cape vino are flowing freely
An unlikely atmosphere for game viewingNot at all Powered by muscular jets ratherthan propellers the three-storey craft moveslike a silently stalking predator ghostingalongside pods of wallowing hippo Irsquom sure I
saw a gargantuan buffalo do a double takeThe game viewing is immense Barely five
minutes pass without someone pointingexcitedly The wiry charismatic BrettMcDonald who was the driving force inrestoring the boat he spotted rusting on thebanks of the Chobe in 2007 is not a man forunderstatement He claims the Chobe has themost densely concentrated wildlife of anyriverbank on earth lsquoItrsquos the Galapagos of
Africarsquo he says lsquoOn winter days at Luguva oursecond night anchorage yoursquoll see herds of 1500buffalo and up to 1000 elephantrsquo
We travel a modest 22km This certainlyisnrsquot Southern Africarsquos answer to cruises on
the Nile Amazon and Mekong lsquoWe donrsquotspend eight hours a day watching the worldslip byrsquo he insists lsquoWe stop explore and smellthe roses Wersquore a floating safari lodgersquo
Make that a highly exclusive floatingsafari lodge Brett owns the mooring rights tothe only safe anchorages on this stretch of
river lsquoItrsquos like our own private game parkrsquo hesmiles lsquoNo one else can do itrsquoWhich begs the question would they want
to Converting the Queenrsquos rusting hulk in themiddle of remote wilderness ndash without a cranelet alone a shipyard ndash became an obsessionreminiscent of Werner Herzogrsquos FitzcarraldolsquoI was like Noah building the arkrsquo he recallslsquoLocals were thinking ldquoWhat has possessedthis imbecilerdquorsquo
Perhaps they were thinking of the riverThe Chobe quickly becomes unnavigable for alarge vessel The solution is to travel with fivesmall satellite boats ndash the equivalent of lodgeLand Rovers ndash opening up a further 135km of
water for safaris and fishingPerfect We downsize and spend the duskndash iced sundowners in hand ndash floating up closeand personal with generous herds of animalsItrsquos an aperitif for a night of bush culture where150 flaming torches ndash straight out of a Hollywoodtribal epic ndash kettle us into a massive boma orenclosure on the Namibian shore for impalastew oxtail and vigorous local dancing
We need the exercise Fusing safari andcruising the Zambezi Queen is a gourmethybrid of the two biggest waist-expanders inthe tourist universe You may be an antelopewhen you board but gorge too often onbutternut and macadamia soup fillet beef with
bordelaise sauce and decent DrsquoAria wine and yoursquoll depart an elephant
Wersquore not the only ones with heavyweightappetites The tiger fish the worldrsquos greatestpiscene fighter combines the teeth of Nosferatuwith the fervour of Geacuterard Depardieu at anall-you-can-eat buffet For an astonishing 30minutes on our final night every cast ignitesan explosion of silver-scaled fury
High on adrenaline we head backtowards the mothership negotiate a riverbend and receive a vivid reminder that the
Zambezi Queen is a quite extraordinarymodernist creation Beneath a blue purpleand gold abstract masterpiece of a sunset the
illuminated craft glows like an exoticspaceship landed in the African bush a finalethereal dream-like vision
Cazenove+loyd (020 7384 2332 wwwcazloydcom) offers nine nights in Botswana includingthree nights on the Zambezi Queen and
full-board stays at Kwando Kwara and KwandoLagoon Camps including all flights andtransfers from pound4975pp Since this trip Brett McDonald has sold his share in the ZambeziQueen to concentrate on his lodges andtailor-made African holiday business Flameof Africa (flameofafricacom) but maintainsa relationship with the boat
RIVERBOAT SONGFrom top One of the Zambezi Queenrsquos bright contemporarycabins with unbeatable views of the river smaller boats ndashthe equivalent of a lodgersquos Land Rovers ndash offer close-upviews on the less easily navigable stretch of the Chobea beautiful and fierce tiger fish
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THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
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BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4456
ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656
TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856
BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
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PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 3956
THE MOSTCOVETED ADDRESS IN GOLF
hamilton grandWith an unparalleled location set by the 18th Green
and fairway of the worldrsquos most famous Golf Course
Hamilton Grand is being sensitively restored with an
ldquoArt Decordquo interior Offering a truly exhilarating
and uniquely Scottish experience
This is a unique real estate opportunity for those who
want to own a home in the birthplace of golf and in a
premier destination that is rich in history
To discuss the opportunity to buy an apartment
at Hamilton Grand please contact
David Vaughan at Savills LampP Ltd
dvaughansavillscom
+44 (0)20 7016 3740
HamiltonGrandcouk
This is not an offer directed to residents of any state in which registration is required but in which registration andor licensing requirements have
not yet been met California residents please refer to the Hamilton Grand website (HamiltonGrandcouklegal) for further disclaimer This advertising
material is being used for the purpose of soliciting sales of vacation membership timeshare interests
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4056
BRIONI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
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the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
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ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
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TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
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STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856
BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056
RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156
and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4056
BRIONI
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4256
the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4356
TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4456
ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656
TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856
BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
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httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956
KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
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RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
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and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
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T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
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BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4156
TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983089
Bespoke is desirable of course but many tailors adhere to
deeply ingrained house styles For suits with the latest cuts and
fabrics itrsquos fashion houses who have the edge
Words David Waters
SHAPE
SHIFTERS
flatter your form and provide instant style credndash without veering off into the more fashion-forward foothills
Unlike most ready-made suit jacketsCanalirsquos are not fused but canvassed with acamel and horse-hair canvas which moulds to your shape over time making the fit unique to you The made-to-measure service uses achoice of blocks making a smart fit And inaddition to established favourite fabrics suchas ultra-lightweight superfine 220- and230-micron wools this seasonrsquos 200 newfabrics give an almost limitless range ofpossibilities canaliit
Su Misura Giorgio Armanirsquos made-to-measure service that launched in 2006 is thisseason available throughout Armanirsquos globalretail empire lsquoI realised that I have clients whoreally do want a unique product madespecifically for themrsquo says Armani Thisseason trousers have pleated waistbands forseated comfort while the two silhouettecollections relaxed lsquoLinea Naturalersquo and thefitted lsquoLinea Costruitarsquo offer a range of day andevening suits armanicom
Not to be left out of all this fine tailoringGucci headlines its spring made-to-measureads featuring chiselled actor James Francopoured into his perfectly fitting dinner suit
lsquoPersonalised formalwear is the ultimateway for a man to express his own stylersquo saysGuccirsquos creative director Frida GianniniFighting words but hard to executeperhaps when you want to look exactly likeMr Franco guccicom
It is refinement and attention to detailthat is making ready-to-wear and made-to-measure suits worth investing in this yearNew British brand Rake has taken thedetailing of bespoke and loosened it up withthe possibility of buying trousers and jacketsseparately and accompanying their elegantlyproportioned tailoring with silk scarves or
open-necked shirts With a collection thatincludes linen and cotton blends as well aswaffle-weave pure wools their half-linedconstruction offers cool ease and comfortcomes virtually guaranteed Available atmatchesfashioncomWith three tailoring labels Ralph Laurenrsquossuit offering this season includeslsquomonochromatic navy and tanrsquo This is foundin the tailored Purple Label while RalphLaurenrsquos business-ready Black Labelbrandishes razor-sharp proportions in blackand blue The standout piece right now is atwo-button pinstripe styled with a deco-inspired wide-dot tie It would hang happily in
The old school of thought concerning thewell-made suit goes something like this anoff-the-peg suit is made for somebody elsea bespoke suit is made only for you SignorRubinacci uttered these exact words onlythe other day at the Mount Street branch ofthe Neapolitan tailor ndash albeit with a chuckleBut there is no doubt of the mantra that hehis clients and many others hold dear Anything less than hand-made tailoring isnot worth the trouble
However it is this very lack of botherwhich make bespokersquos wallet-friendliercousins so worth checking out Those of us
lucky to have more than a couple of bespokesuits are fortunate indeed that subtlecorrection of your sloping shoulder the slightdip at the back of the trouser to cover yourshoe heels the tailorrsquos chalked signature thechosen silk linings are among bespokersquosmultifarious pleasures Yet as individualisedas they are bespoke suits will always be madewith reference to the tailorsrsquo house styles Infact this season the most exciting suits arestraight off the catwalks of Milan London andParis and are ready now to pull off the hangerThese top-end collections and made-to-measure services are coming up trumps withthe sharpest contemporary silhouettes that
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4256
the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4356
TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4456
ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656
TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856
BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956
KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056
RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156
and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4256
the wardrobe of Italian dandy Lapo Elkannand give George Osborne a fright But itexpertly shows the breadth of classic tailoringon offer this year ralphlaurencom
Over at Ferragamo and E Tautz (theBritish Fashion Councilrsquos 2010 menswear
designer of the year) double-breasted suits aremaking an impressive comeback Gone arethe DBrsquos excess-baggage details of chalkstriped wool and gaping jacket fronts Neatsharp and fitted the new double-breasted isworn fully buttoned and with a slight crop andis worn over slim-fitting trousers PatrickGrant E Tautzrsquos designer took creativeinspiration for this from Felix Carvajal amarathon-running postman from Havanawho competed in the 1904 Olympics Itrsquos thesportiness of the lightweight flannel thatmakes these double-breasted suits socomfortable and easy to wear
ferragamocom etautzcom
For those of us who donrsquot have to don a suitdaily make space for Dunhillrsquos lsquoCambedoorsquoblazer ndash the wardrobersquos latest most versatileweapon The odd name comes from the regionin South Africa this exclusive mohair is fromThis particular fibrersquos benefits include its
crease-resistance as well as astonishinglybeing stronger than steel of the samediameter And luckily for this overheatedseason it niftily wicks away moisture andexcess body heat Elsewhere in Dunhillrsquosspringsummer 2012 collection slick suits inblack and navy are leavened with retro rowingmotif silk ties dunhillcom
Kim Jonesrsquos first collection as menrsquos styledirector at Louis Vuitton under creativedirector Marc Jacobs was a triumphant mix oftailoring and sportswear united under a traveltheme The playboyartist Peter Beard ndash thatdashing man who has combined JamesBond and David Attenborough in one racy
Springrsquos silhouettes continue
the ongoing trend for slim and
to-the-body neatness Yet there
is a more relaxed feel this season
LOUIS VUITTON E TAUTZ CANALI
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4356
TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4456
ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656
TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856
BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956
KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056
RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156
and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4356
TAILORING 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983091
Africa-centred life ndash was the collectionrsquoshandsome lodestone lsquoBeard is a hero of minelsquosays Jones lsquoThis collection is a fictionalisedimagining of that period of travel to Africa inthe Sixties and Seventies which was the time Iwas growing up in Africarsquo The result of this
fine inspiration is a relaxed display of sharpgrey two-button suits with rolled up hems andcropped navy blazers over mid-grey flanneltrousers and Varsity sportswear under brightMasai-inspired red scarves They may so undlike unlikely combinations yet are veryconvincing in execution louisvuittoncom
The suits at Aquascutum this season aremuch more subdued Using cloths developedexclusively in English mills long silhouettes ofsummer-weight worsteds are elegant andversatile The companyrsquos classic cut Pritchardsuit is the housersquos most popular while theHenderson which features a contemporarycropped shape is cut from Aquascutumrsquos
best-selling high-twist fabric making it creaseresistant aquascutumcouk
It is colour that is really defining thisseasonrsquos tailoring That great colourist himselfartist David Hockney is the inspirationbehind Brionirsquos springsummer 2012 menrsquos
offering Eucalyptus lavender wine royalblue and red feature throughout the line Newfabrics display the brandrsquos reputation forinnovation by spinning silk and nylon ormicrofibre to creative high-performance yetdelicate yarns brionicom
More subdued pastel hues are key to theErmenegildo Zegna spring offering Zegnahas done more in fabric development thanprobably any other fabric company in theworld Itrsquos this expertise in cloth that allows itto showcase shiny silk suits in pastel huescrispest cotton one-button suits as well asmatt and lsquocraftedrsquo fabrics such as silk and linenherringbones and Prince of Wales plaids
Double-breasted suits and blazers in cottonand linen crepe pick up on tailoringrsquos biggesttrend while keeping shapes short andto-the-body zegnacom
The diversity of colour shape pattern andfabrication in menrsquos suits this spring has never
been bettered The silhouettes continue theongoing trend for slim and to-the-bodyneatness Yet there is a more relaxed feel thisseason Gone are the whip-thin trousers of a year or two ago and personal style statementsare more likely to be made with your choice ofshirt tie and pocket square than the cut of your jacket Much of what is exciting aboutthese suit lines is lsquounder the hoodrsquo wherecut-away linings open weave fabrics andhigh-tech yarns are only appreciated by youthe wearer Even so business attire has neverlooked well so unbuttoned
Your suit may not be made for you exactlybut then again no one need ever know
ZEGNA ARMANI GUCCI
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4456
ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656
TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856
BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956
KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056
RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156
and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4456
ORANGE SEGMENT
From left Colour blockknit pound335 and trouserspound209 both Paul Smith
Double-breasted jacketpound506 blue shirt pound119and brown trouserspound289 all Paul SmithGlasses pound290 Cutlerand Gross Orange andsteel-strapped SeamasterPlanet Ocean watchpound3700 OmegaSocks pound12 HackettLeather boots pound395Alexander McQueen
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656
TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856
BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956
KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056
RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156
and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4556
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983093
Bold tailoring with blocks of colour evoke
David Hockneyrsquos exuberant palette
in a shoot photographed in what was
the British masterrsquos Sixties flat
Photography Emma Hardy Styling Tamara Fulton
A bigger lash
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656
TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856
BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956
KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056
RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156
and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4656
TANGERINE SCHEME
This page Linen and cotton jacket (part of a suit)pound1060 and trouserspound360 both Canali Linenshirt pound120 HackettBelt from pound69 and sockspound17 both Paul Smith Silksquare pound1995 Harrods
Opposite Suit pound1000Gieves amp HawkesShirt pound120 Hackett
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856
BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956
KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056
RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156
and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4756
STYLE 983164 BRUMMELL 983092983095
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856
BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956
KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056
RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156
and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4856
BRUMMELL 983164 FEATURE TITLE983092983096
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956
KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056
RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156
and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 4956
KIND OF BLUE
Opposite Linen jacketpound450 linen trouserspound130 linen shirt pound120all Hackett Glasses asbefore Cutler and GrossBelt from pound69 Paul Smith
This page Velvet blazerpound1120 and trousers pound370
both Alexander McQueenCashmere sweater pound150Ralph Lauren at HarrodsLinen shirt pound125Gieves amp Hawkes
Grooming Hina Dohi at SohoManagement using Clinique
Models
Marc Goldfinger at Models 1Max Rogers at StormAdam Holden at Select
Photographerrsquos assistant Gabby Laurent
Styling assistants
Cat Stirling andMadeleine OrsquoFlaherty
With thanks to Candyat East Photographic
STOCKISTS DETAILSON PAGE 54
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056
RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156
and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5056
RECORD DEVICES
The Rolex split secondchronograph fetched thehighest price for any Rolexwristwatch sold at auctionwhile the Patek Philippechronograph achieved theworldrsquos highest auctionprice for a Patek Philippesimple chronographwristwatchOverleaf Arare Patek Philippe watchset the world record for anauction price of this model
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156
and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5156
and one a staggering $36m Such stellar priceshelped Christiersquos to become the first auctionhouse to smash the $100 million barrier forwatch sales in a single year ndash with a total of$1163 million realised ndash while its main rivals
Sothebyrsquos Antiquorum and Bonhams grossed$6497m $6093m and $15m respectively
The really big money however is reservedfor a single brand Patek Philippe Its vintagewatches from the Forties and Fifties are farand away the most sought-after by trulyserious collectors and a 1946 Patek WorldTime which sold for CHF66 million a decadeago remains the most expensive wristwatchever to cross the auction block
Rolex comes next in the league table ofcollectable names although the record for themake stands at a lsquomerersquo $11 million for a 1942split-second chronograph ( pictured left ) thatwas sold by Christiersquos last May After this
With luxury timepieces holding their value remarkably well watch auctions
are a must for the serious collector But it pays to do your homeworkWords Simon de Burton
Hammer time
yoursquoll find committed vintage collectorsbattling for watches by brands such as CartierVacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet
But the times they are a-changing in theworld of watch auctions Until recently the
world centres were Geneva and New Yorkand generally speaking it was older watchesthat reached the biggest prices During thepast five years however some of the newChinese money that manages to escape beingmopped up by the luxury goods giants isfinding its way to the Hong Kong watch salesbeing organised by Antiquorum BonhamsChristiersquos and Sothebyrsquos as wealthy Asianenthusiasts attempt to satisfy their burningdesire for timepieces
The overall trend in Asia is to bid forcontemporary watches by cutting-edge brandssuch as Richard Mille Greubel Forsey andUrwerk ndash although some buyers are gaining
In recent years retail sales of luxury watcheshave proved to be defiant in the face offinancial crises with all the major brandsposting dramatic increases across the boardndash the giant Swatch Group for example shifted
timepieces worth almost pound5 billion last year arise of more than 21 per cent
One of the effects of such buoyancy canbe seen in the market for pre-owned watchesnotably those being sold at auction Theaverage man in the street (especially here inparsimonious Britain) still struggles to cometo terms with the idea that people spend tensof thousands of pounds on a wristwatch butsuch figures pale into insignificance whencompared with the sums being splashed out atauction on the rarest vintage pieces
During 2011 Christiersquos sold no fewer thannine wristwatches for more than $1 millionapiece two of which fetched in excess of $2m
WATCH AUCTIONS 983164 BRUMMELL 983093983089
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5256
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5356
T H E G E O R G E D A N I E L S H O R O L O G I C A L C O L L E C T I O N
A U C T I O N I N L O N D O N 983094 N O V E M B E R 983090 983088 983089 983090 983164 E N Q U I R I E S 983083 983092 983092 983080 983088983081 983090 983088 983095 983090 983097 983091 983093 983093 983091 983096 983164 S O T H E B Y S C O M
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5456
BRUMMELL 983164 BY GEORGE983093983092
One of Italian fashionrsquos
most flamboyant figures
Angelo Galasso believes
that the time is right for men
to dress more expressively
BOLD
RUSH
StockistsAlexander McQueen alexandermcqueencom Blancpain blancpaincom
Breitling breitlingcom Burberry Prorsum 020 7806 1303 burberrycom
Canali canaliit Cartier cartiercom Chanel chanelcom Chopard
chopardcom Cutler and Gross 020 7581 2250 cutlerandgrosscom
Gieves amp Hawkes 020 7432 6403 gievesandhawkescom Hackett 020 7939 6865 hackettcom Harrods 020 7730 1234 harrodscom
Omega omegawatchescom Panerai paneraicom Paul Smith 0800
023 4006 paulsmithcouk TAG Heuer tagheuercom
lsquoA guy can see life in one way and then see it inanother wayrsquo suggests Angelo Galasso lsquoAfter
all everyone likes to evolversquo The flamboyant
Galasso may not be a name to rival fellow
Italians Armani or Versace but he has had his
influence on menswear Galasso is the car
salesman turned investment banker turned
shirtmaker who launched the Interno 8 brand in
1990 bringing with it not just the Gianni Agnelli-
inspired watch-cuff ndash a section cut out of the cuff
to better accommodate a statement timepiece
ndash but a trend for towering collars open necks
and loud prints In short he rescued the humble
shirt from wardrobe obscurity creating a 100-
shop international business in the process
Of his decision to sell up Galasso sayslsquoI like to work with passion and just didnrsquot feel
it any more Wersquod built a new reputation for the
shirt but I spent a lot of time on the shop floor
and could see that the market was going
towards something more haute couturehelliprsquo
Haute couture may sound like an exaggeration
but Galassorsquos latest incarnation ndash as the front
man of an eponymous brand after launching
Billionaire Couture with Flavio Briatore with
whom he in now in a protracted lsquostressfulrsquo legal
battle ndash comes close It is not for the wallflower
lavish print and colour crossed with a high Italian
luxe creates the kind of menswear difficult to
ignore Everything from fat ties to pointy shoes
is available in a more bespoke version should
you wish to turn the volume right up
lsquoItrsquos about selling the right fashion for the
right customerrsquo says Galasso lsquoAnd there is
a customer who wants something bolderrsquo
For those more comfortable with muted
sobriety Angelo Galassorsquos style may prove a leap
too far For others itrsquos a breath of Neapolitan or
Florentine air Look beyond the extravagant
detailing (jackets lined with tie silk for example)
and it is Galasso argues actually all rather
traditional Savile Row on a psychedelic high
lsquoSavile Rowrsquo says Galasso lsquobecause thatrsquos where
the most elegant men are There and in Naplesrsquo
Galasso concedes that his new business is
more lsquobuild it and they will comersquo than answeringa clear need But he hopes to as he puts it lsquocatch
the right momenthellip I think in the coming years
wersquoll start to see men begin to dress much more
expressively a bit Euro a little more flashily and
theyrsquoll get compliments for thatrsquo he adds lsquoYou
canrsquot overdo the flashiness of course You do it
with one piece not head to toe Some people
will still think itrsquos too much and thatrsquos finersquo
Fine perhaps because Galasso ndash who
thinks he could build his young business up into
another 100-store chain ndash has something of a
track record of going his own way and finding
enough men to follow him It was while he was
working in finance and unable to find clothes he
liked for himself that despite a lack of traininghe started to make his own Soon colleagues
were placing orders enough that he decided to
go full-time - with the novelty of having women
on motorbikes buzzing around Rome taking
client measurements at work Soon the unlikely
combo of Jay-Z Tony Blair and King Abdullah II
of Jordan started buying too
Now he reckons we are all undergoing
what might be called the mozzarella
transformation Galasso frequently cites
the cheese in an analogy of the difference
between the quality of menrsquos clothing a decade
ago and today Ten years ago the only mozzarella
that was available in the UK was standard even
dull Today the UK consumer can buy divineburrata mozzarella which comes coincidentally
from the region of Puglia where Galasso was
born Itrsquos in another class Itrsquos the kind of
difference men are seeing in their clothing
choices Just donrsquot drip sectolive oil on any of it
angelogalassocom
Words Josh Sims
OWN CO983085RESPONDENTSHaving made his name as a
shirtmaker Angelo Galasso hastaken his extravagant aesthetic
into all areas of fashion
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5556
8132019 Vip4 Brumfullfeb2012 Web 43850
httpslidepdfcomreaderfullvip4-brumfullfeb2012-web-43850 5656
PLANET OCEAN
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