solving raccoon problems - wild things sanctuary - home · q: raccoons keep eating the food i put...
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Fund Facts: Coexisting with Wildlife Fact Sheet #3
Solving Racoon Problems
Raccoons are intelligent, fascinating, and highly
adaptable mammals. As we destroy more and
more wildlife habitat, we force animals like rac-
coons to come into closer contact with us.
There's no need to panic or pay hundreds of dol-
lars for trapping services because most problems
can be easily resolved with some simple advice
and household materials. Many conflicts occur in
spring and summer when raccoons take advan-
tage of cavities in human dwellings to raise their
young. This is why it's vital to solve problems in a
way that doesn't separate a mother from her cubs.
Here are some solutions to common raccoon
problems:
Q: How do I keep raccoons out of my garbage7
A: Overflowing or uncovered garbage cans pro-
vide an open invitation to hungry raccoons. The
simplest solution is to put out your garbage cans
for pickup in the morning, after the nocturnal rac-
coons have returned to their dens. If you must put
out your garbage cans at night, get the kind of
plastic garbage can with a tall (4-inch high)
twist-on lid, which raccoons can't open. Another
option is to build a simple wooden box outside for
storing garbage cans. For'easy access, the top
should be hinged and have a latch in front secured
with a snap hook.
Q; I found raccoons in my dumpster@how do I
get them out7
A: Often garbage disposal companies don't
close dumpster lids after emptying them in the
early morning hours. Raccoons are enticed by the
food smells, jump in, and can't climb the slippery
sides. This problem is easily resolved by putting
some strong branches or planklike pieces of wood
in the dumpster so the raccoons can climb out. If
your company leaves dumpster lids open all the
time, we strongly recommend posting a sign telling
employees that it's vital to keep the lid closed so
animals don't become trapped inside.
Q; There's a raccoon in my yard but it's day-
time@does that mean the animal is rabid?
A: Even though raccoons are considered noc-
turnal, mother raccoons sometimes nap in trees or
forage during the day when they have nursing
cubs, which deplete their energy. Coastal raccoons
take advantage of the tides and are often seen by
day Call your local animal control officer or pafcee
if an adult raccoon seen in daytime is acting ai a!
sick or showing abnormal behavior such as paroa)
paralysis, circling, staggering as if drunk or disori-
ented, self-mutilating, screeching, or exhibiting
unprovoked aggression or unnatural tameness.
Otherwise just leave the raccoon alone and keep
people and pets away from the animal.
Q: How do I get raccoons out of my attic or
chimney7
A: In spring and summer, mother raccoons
often take advantage of chimneys and attics as
denning sites for raising cubs. The easiest and best
solution is to wait a few weeks for the raccoons to
move out on their own. As soon as the cubs are
old enough to go on nighttime outings with their
mother, she will take them out of the chimney
once and for all rather than continually carry
them back and forth. Remember that mother rac-
coons clean their babies meticulously to avoid at-
tracting predators. If you absolutely must evict the
raccoon family, remember that raccoons look for
quiet, dark, and non-noxious-smelling places to
raise their young. By creating the opposite condi-
tions, you can evict them using the following
methods.
Eviction of chimney raccoons: Keep the damper
closed and put a blaring radio (rock or rap music
works best) in the fireplace. Then put a bowl of
ammonia on a footstool near the damper. Apply
these deterrents just be/ore dusk; mother raccoons
won't want to move their cubs in broad daylight.
Be patient; it may take a few days for the mother
to move her young. Once you inspect and make
sure all the raccoons are gone, promptly call a
chimney sweep to install a mesh chimney cap (the
best kind has a stainless-steel top) and this situa-
tion will not recur.
Eviction of attic raccoons: Leave all the lights on
and place a blaring radio and rags sprinkled with
1/4 cup of ammonia around the attic. You can also
enhance the deterrent effect by adding cayenne
pepper or the commercial repellent Repel@
around the attic or by hanging an electrician's
drop light over the denning area. Apply these
deterrents just before dusk; mother raccoons will
not want to move their cubs in daylight. Be patient;
Appendix B 4- 171
it may take a few days for the mother to move her
young. Once the raccoons are gone* promptly seal
any entry hole and this situation will not recur.
Q: Raccoons keep eating the food I put outdoors
for the cats!
A: If you leave food out all the time, you will
attract raccoons and other animals. The solution
is to feed the cats only at a certain time in the
morning or midday, then take away any uneaten
food. The cats will get used to the schedule and
modify their behavior accordingly
Q;A raccoon Iteeps coming through my cat
door and eating all the cat food!
A: No self-respecting raccoon is going to ignore
a free buffet! The best solution is to feed your cats
indoors and not use a cat door at all. There are
strong, electrically controlled doors that you can
purchase that only let your designated pet in. You
can call RC Steele at 800-872-3773 for more infor-
mation on the Electronic Dog Door (item LA30-
2296).
Q; I put in a Japanese pond but the raccoons
are eating all the fish!
A: It is difficult to have a delicacy like fish in an
area and expect raccoons not to take notice! The
best solution is to maintain a higher water level
(at least 3 feet deep) and stack cinder blocks, large
rocks, or ceramic pipes in the bottom of the pond
so the fish can escape from the raccoons and take
refuge.
Q; Raccoons keep making a mess of my lawn.
How do I stop this.7
A: The raccoons are going after the grubs in
your lawn. If you keep your lawn well watered, this
exacerbates the problem since it drives the grubs
to the surface layer of the soil. The good news is
that the grubbing activity, although unsightly, does
not permanently damage the lawn. A long-term,
ecological solution is to apply the product "Milky
Spore" to the soil. This natural bacteria will spread
and get rid of the grubs, but it takes a long time to
work (one year or more).' We don't recommend
^Most atrics contain clutter, making it hard to verify if
Ae raccoons are gone. Before sealing any entry hole, stuff
IT first with newspaper and see if the paper stays in place
fo? thiee successive nights. If so, the den is vacated. After
saleis die entry hole with hardware cloth, make sure no
@accooas are \eh behind by leaving a sardine or marsh-
(naSloars m the arric and checking if the food is uneaten
aftar 24 hour?, or sprinkle flour in front of die entry hole
and i^u-ri for fooairinis of a raccoon trying to get out.
chemical pesticides due to their toxic effect on the
environment, people, and animals.
Q: Raccoons Iteep getting into my chiclten coop;
A: The only answer is to reinforce your chicken
coop so the raccoons cannot have access to the
chickens. Heavy-gauge welded wire should be
used and another layer of finer mesh put over it to
prevent raccoons from being able to reach through.
Although an inconvenience, once an animal pen
is well reinforced and maintained, there will be no
more problems.
Q; Why not just trap the raccoon (or hire a
trapper) to solve the nuisance problem?
A; Trapping is rarely a solution to wildlife nui-
sance problems. As one animal is removed, an-
other from the surrounding area will soon take his
place. The answer is to exclude the animal from
the food or nesting source that is attracting him.
Nuisance wildlife control companies charge a
fee@sometimes hundreds of dollars@for problems
that homeowners can often resolve themselves. In
addition, when animals are trapped during
birthing seson, starving babies may be left behind.
Homeowners are then horrified to find a foul odor
emanating throughout their house. Animals
should never be trapped under extreme condi-
tions, such as on sunny rooftops, in rain, snow,
sleet, or other bad weather, which will cause the
animals to suffer and die.
We discourage trapping unless an animal is stuck
somewhere and can't get out or poses an immedi-
ate threat to humans or domestic animals. If you
do hire a nuisance trapper, be sure to read our
"Standards for Working with a Nuisance Wildlife
Control Operator" brochure first to ensure that
humane practices are followed and no animals are
orphaned in the process.
Written by Laura Simon,
Urban Wildlife Director
The Fund for Animals @ 200 W. 57th St., New
York, NY 10019 @ (212) 246-2096 @ FAX: (212)
246-2633 @ www.ftind.org
172 -^ Appendix B
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