skin care formulary skin care formulary contents · skin care formulary skin care formulary...

Vol. 121, No. 7/July 2006 www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine | �

Skin CARE FORMULARY

Skin Care Formulary ContentsCreams/Moisturizers �Cleansers/Scrubs 4Miscellaneous 4Supplier Listing 6

CREAMS/MOiStURizERSAntioxidant Skin Cream

(Sabinsa Corp.)A.Paraffinum liquidum(mineral)oil 10.00% Petrolatum 1.50 Acetylatedlanolin 2.20 Lanolinalcohol 1.40 Laneth-10 0.50 GlycerylmonostearateSE 3.00B.Carbomer(Carbopol940,Noveon) 0.10 Sodiummethylparaben 0.20 Sodiumpropylparaben 0.02 Sodiumhydroxide,10% 2.50 Water(aqua) qs100.00C.Tetrahydrocurcuminoids(SabinsaCorp.) 0.10 Tetrahydropiperine(Cosmoperine,SabinsaCorp.) 0.05D.Ouercus infectoriaextract(GallnutExtract,SabinsaCorp.) 0.20 Water(aqua) 2.00

Procedure:HeatAandBseparatelyto65°C.AddDunderstirringafterwelldis-persed,toB,whenBishomogeneous.AddBCtoAandhomogenizefor1min.Coolto40°C,andhomogenizefor1minuteagain.AddDunderstirring.

Day Care Cream Rapid Summer Glow with DHA(EMD Chemicals/Rona)

ThisformulaincorporatesingredientstomoisturizetheskinforalongerperiodoftimeandenhancesSPF.

A.Water(aqua) 58.00% Propyleneglycol 3.00B.Glycerylstearate(and)steareth-25(and)ceteth-20(and) stearylalcohol(TegoCare150,Degussa) 8.00 Cetearylalcohol(LanetteO,Cognis) 1.50 Cetearylethylhexanoate(TegosodtLiquid,Degussa) 6.50 Caprylic/caprictriglyceride(Myritol318,Cognis) 6.50 Stearoxydimethicone(Abil-Wax2434,DowCorning) 1.20 Tocopherylacetate(RonaCareTocopherolAcetate,MerckKgaA) 0.50 Dimethicone(DC200,100cs,DowCorning) 0.50C.Dihydroxyacetone(DHA)(and)troxerutin(DHARapid/Rona/EMD Chemicals) 3.30 Water(aqua) 10.00D.Phenoxyethanol(and)methylparaben(and)propylparaben (PhenonipXB,Clariant) 1.00 100.00

Procedure:HeatAandBseparatelyto75-80°C.AddBslowlytoAwithmoder-atemixing.Homogenizefor2–3min.CoolwhilestirringandaddCat40°C.IncorporateD,mixuntilsmoothanduniform.

W/Si Super nourishing Cream for Hands(LCW—Sensient Cosmetic Technologies)

Thisextraordinaryrichcreamhasasmoothandnongreasyfeel.Thehealing

andcell-regeneratingpropertiesareobtainedwithlanolinsubstitutebasedonplantextracts.

A.Phenyltrimethicone(and)cetylPEG/PPG/PPEG-10/1 dimethicone(and)polyglyceryl-2-isostearate(and)hexyl laurate(Silamer,LCW) 15.00% Glycerylisostearate(and)isostearylalcohol(and)beta-sitosterol (and)Butyrospermum parkii(shea)butter(and)candelilla wax(Covasterol,LCS) 10.00 Cera alba(beeswax) 3.00B.Glycerin 12.00 Sodiumchloride 0.50 Water(aqua) 57.35 Urea(and)sorbitol(and)lacticacid(and)hydrolyzedwheat protein(and)glycerin(and)allantoin 2.00 Phenoxyethanol(and)propylparaben(and)methylparaben (HydrofateurLC,LCW) 0.15 100.00

Procedure:HeatAandBseparatelyto70°C.Add/pourBintoA,stirringslowlyat the beginning and then faster. Mix well until a smooth shiny cream isobtained.

Rejuvenation Face Cream(Sasol North America Inc.)

This formula is anantiagingpreparation that incorporatesAHA-ester-basedemulsifiers.

A.Glycerylstearatecitrate(Imwitor372P,Sasol) 3.00% Glyceryllauratecitrate(Imiwitor377,Sasol) 1.00 Caprylic/caprictriglyceride(Miglyol812,Sasol) 14.00 Oleylerucate(Dynacerin660,Sasol) 3.00 Cetearylalcohol(Nafol1618H,Sasol) 2.00 Dimethicone(BelsilDM350,WackerChemieGmbH) 1.00B.Carbomer(CarbopolUltrez-10,Noveon) 0.30 Water(aqua) 62.70 Glycerin 5.00 Preservative qsC.Oxidoreductases(and)soypeptides(and)hydrolyzedrice branextract(Regu-Age,Pentapharm) 3.00 Hydrolyzedelastin(ElastinCLR,ChemischesLaboratorium Dr.KurtRichterGmbH) 5.00 Fragrance(parfum) qsD.Sodiumhydroxide,10% qs

Procedure:HeatAandBseparatelytoabout75°C.AddAtoBwhilestirring.Homogenize.Coolwithgentlestirring toca.30°CandaddC.AdjustpHvaluewithDto6–6.5.

Daily Radiance Cream SPF�5(Cognis Deutschland)

A. (INCInotprovided)(EmulgadeNLB,Cognis) 6.00% Cocoglycerides(Myritol331,Cognis) 2.00 Dicaprylylcarbonate(CetiolCC,Cognis) 3.00 Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 7.50 Ethylhexylsalicylate 5.00 Benzophenone-3 3.00

This information is presented in good faith, and believed to be correct, but no warranty as to ac-curacy of results or fitness for a particular use is given, nor is freedom from patent infringement to be inferred. It is offered solely for your consider-ation, investigation and verification.

� | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 121, No. 7/July 2006

Skin CARE FORMULARY

Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2.00 Dimethicone(DC200Fluid,DowCorning) 0.50 Methylmethacrylatecrosspolymer(CovabeadLH-85) 2.00 Preservative qs Tocopherylacetate(Copherol1250C,Cognis) 0.20 Sodiumpolyacrylate(CosmediaSP,Cognis) 0.20B.Water(aqua) 60.15 Glycerin 3.00 Butyleneglycol 2.00C.CI16255 0.15 CI19140 0.30D.Glycerin(and)glycerylpolyacrylate(Hispagel200,Cognis) 2.00 (INCInotprovided)(Vitis-PrimaspongeOrangeSS(VitaminsPrimasponge SmallSizeOrange),Cognis) 1.00

Procedure:MixAandheatto80–85°C.Mixuntilhomogeneousinaseparatevessel,mixandheatto80-85°C.AddBtoAandmixfor5minwithmoderatestirring;commencecooling.At40°C,adjustcolorwithCandfinallyaddDtobatchinorder.AdjustpH6.5ifnecessary.Viscosity(mPas),BrookfieldRVF,23°C,sp.TE,4rpm,withHelipath130000.

Soufflé Body Cream(National Starch Personal Care)

Hydroxypropylstarchphosphateprovidesstability,bodyandasmoothfeeltothismoisturizingcreamwhilehydroxyethylureadeliversmoisturizationtotheskinwithexcellentsensoryproperties.

A.Water(aqua) 65.75% Carbomer(Carbopol940,2%aq,Noveon) 7.50B.Hydroxypropylstarchphosphate(StructureXLStarch, NationalStarch) 4.00C.Hydroxyethylurea(HydrovanceMoisturizingAgent,NationalStarch) 4.00D.C12-15alkylbenzoate(FinsolvTN,Finetex) 5.00 Ethylhexylpalmitate(Estol1543,Uniqema) 5.00 Cetylalcohol(CrodacolC-95NF,Croda) 1.00 Stearicacid(Pristerene4911,Uniqema) 2.00 Dimethicone(DC200Fluid,100cst,DowCorning) 1.00 BHT(TenoxBHT,EastmanChemical) 0.10E. Triethanolamine,99% 0.65 Water(aqua) 3.00 Imidazolidinylurea(Germall115,ISP) 0.30F. Phenoxyethanol(and)methylparaben(and)ethylparaben (and)butylparaben(and)propylparaben(and)isobutylparaben (Phenonip,Clariant) 1.00 100.00

Procedure:CombineAwhilemixingat500–600rpm.Mixfor15min.SlowlysiftinBandmixuntilhydrated.AddCtobatchandmixthoroughly.SeparatelycombineDinaseparatevesselandheatto80°C.Holdat80°Candmixfor5min.OnceABCandDhavereachedtemperature,slowlyaddDtoABC.Mixfor10minat75°C.Turnoffheatandcontinuetomixat500–600rpm.SeparatelyslurryEandaddtoABCDat65°C.Coolto45°Cwhilemixing.AddFtobatchandcooltoambienttemperature.Viscosity:50,000cps(BrookfieldViscometerModelRVF-100,spindleT-C,10rpm,25°C);pH:7.5–7.7.

W/O Moisturizing night Cream(Nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd.)

This ultra-light and elegant w/o cream incorporates a unique emulsifyingcomplexandprovidesstablew/oemulsionswithextremely light textureandremarkablespreadability.

A.Cyclopentasiloxane(and)PEG-10dimethicone(and) disteardimoniumhectorite(NikkolNikkomuleseWO,Nikko) 3.00% Cyclopentasiloxane 10.00 Cyclomethicone(and)dimethicone(and)dimethicone/vinyl dimethiconecrosspolymer(NikkolSilblend-91,Nikko) 8.00 Jojobaoil(NikkolJojobaOilS,Nikko) 1.20 Macadamia ternifolia seedoil(NikkolMacadamiaNutOil,Nikko) 1.30B.Methylparaben 0.20 Propylparaben 0.05 Ethanol 3.00 Butyleneglycol 5.00 Glycerin 6.00 PEG-32 0.20 PEG-220 0.30 Sodiumhyaluronate,1%aqsoln 1.50 Sodiumcitrate 0.20 Hydroxyproline 0.20

DisodiumEDTA 0.05 Water(aqua) 59.80 100.00

Procedure:MixhomogeneouslyeachofAandBseparately.HeatAandBto70°CandaddBtoAwhilestirringAwithadispersingmixerat1,400–3,000rpm.Thenincreasestirringspeedto5,000rpmandkeepstirringfor10mintoemulsifythemix-ture.Coolto28°Cwhilegentlystirringwithapaddlemixeratlessthan100rpm.

Hand and Body Cream with C�8-�� Alkane(Presperse)

A.Water(aqua) 66.15% Butyleneglycol 3.50 DisodiumEDTA(DissolvineNA2S,AkzoNobel) 0.10 Phenoxyethanol(and)caprylylglycol(and)ethylhexylglycerin (and)hexyleneglycol(BotanistatPF-64,Botanigenics,Inc.) 1.00B.Xanthangum(Keltrol,1%,Kelco) 10.00 C18-21alkane(Gemseal60,Presperse) 2.50 Macadamia ternifoliaseedoil(LipovolMAC,LipoChemical) 2.75 Cetylalcohol(LipocolC,LipoChemical) 1.75 Stearicacid(StearicAcid,LipoChemical) 1.25 Cetearylolivate(and)sorbitanolivate(Olivem1000,Presperse) 4.00 Persea gratissima(avocado)oil(LipovolA,LipoChemical) 2.00 Isohexadecane(Permethyl101A,Presperse) 4.50 PEG-100stearate(Lipopeg100-S,LipoChemical) 0.50 100.00

Procedure: Inamainvessel,combineAandheatto78-80°C.Inaseparatevessel,combineBandheatto80°C.AddBtoAandmixwell.Coolto25°C.Fillappropriatecontainers.

Mattifying Gel-emulsion with Plant Extract(Sederma)

A.Carbomer(Ultrez10,Noveon) 0.35%B.Water(aqua) qs100.00C.Butyleneglycol 2.00 Glycerin 1.00 Mixedparabens 0.30D.Isocetylstearate(CrodamolICS,Croda) 1.00 C12-15alkylbenzoate(CrodamolAB,Croda) 4.00 AcrylatesC10-30alkylacrylatecrosspolymer(PemulenTR2, Noveon) 0.25 Polysorbate20(Crillet1,Croda) 1.00E. Potassiumsorbate 0.10F. Sodiumhydroxide 0.55 Water(aqua) 5.00G.(INCI:notprovided)Plantextract(Evermat,Sederma) 3.00H.Fragrance(parfum)(Verveine0425671,ExpressionsParfumées) 0.10

Procedure:SprinkleAinBandallowswellingfor30min.WeighandheatCuntildissolved.AddCtoABwithHelixstirring(s=300rpm).WeighDandmix.PourDintoABCwithHelixstirring(s=300rpm).AddEtoABCDandhomogenizewellduring30min.AddFtobatchinorder,thenGandHwhilehomogenizingwellaftereachaddition.pH:5.7.

Luxury Face Cream(Laboratoires Prod’Hyg/Lecticc/International Sourcing Inc.)

Thisfacecreamwillsoftenandsoothetheface.

A.PEG-2stearate(and)cetylalcohol(and)stearylalcohol(and hydrogenatedpolydecene(and)hydrogenatedcoconutoil (and)ceteareth-25(and)sodiumstearate(Prodhycreme015, LaboratoiresProd’Hyg/Leticc/ISI) 14.00%B.Water(aqua) 74.50C.Water(aqua)TEAlactate(and)sodiumlactate(and)lacticacid (and)glycerin(and)sorbitol(and)serine(and)urea(and) allantoin(FacteurHydratantpH,LaboratoiresProd’Hyg/Leticc/ISI) 3.00 Glycerin(and)water(aqua)Citrus grandis(and)phenoxyethanol (and)methylparaben(and)ethylparaben(and)butylparaben (and)isobutylparaben(and)propylparaben(PamExtract, LaboratoiresProd’Hyg/Leticc/ISI) 5.00 Starchhydroxypropyltrimoniumchloride(SensomerCI-50, LaboratoiresProd’Hyg/Leticc/ISI) 1.00 Oystershellpowder(PearlConcept,Laboratoires Prod’Hyg/Leticc/ISI) 2.00D.2-Phenoxyethanol(and)methyl-4-hydroxybenzoate(and)

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Skin CARE FORMULARY

ethyl-44hydroxybenzoate(and)butyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (and)isobutyl-4-hydroxybenzoate(and) propyl-4-hydroxybenzoate(Phenonip,Clariant) 0.50 100.00

Procedure:AddAandBat80°C.CoolAto40°CandaddCtobatch.At30°C,addDandmixwell.

Facial Emulsion with Copaiba Powder(Beraca Ingredients)

A.Water(aqua) 85.90% TetrasodiumEDTA(VersenePowder,DowChemicals) 0.10

Copaifera officinalis(balsamcopaiba)resin(and)modified starch(RainForestRF3300Powder,BeracaIngredients) 4.00 Polyhexamethylenebiguanide(CosmocilCQ,ArchChemicals) 0.30B.Glycerylstearate(and)PEG-100stearate(Arlacel165, Uniqema/BeracaIngredients) 2.00 Cetearylalcohol 4.00 Theobroma grandiflorumseedbutter(RainForestRF3440, BeracaIngredients) 0.50 PPG-15stearylether(ArlamolE,Uniqema/BeracaIngredients) 1.00C.Fragrance(parfum) 0.20 100.00

Procedure:HeatAandBseparatelyto75°C.AddAinBandhomogenizefor15 min, stirring moderately. Allow to cool to RT, add C, and stir untilcompletelyhomogenized.

Facial treatment Cream(Croda Inc.)

Thisfacialtreatmentcreamcontainsafunctionalmixofskincareactivesde-signedtoimprovetheskin’selasticityandhydrationandprotectitfromdailyaggressions.Thisformulafeaturesarainforestmoisturizingbutter.

A.C12-15alkylbenzoate(CrodamolAB,Croda) 6.00% Cetearylalcohol(and)dicetylphosphate(and)ceteth-10 phosphate(CrodafosCES,Croda) 5.00 Theobroma grandiflorumseedbutter(CrodamazonCupuacu, Croda) 2.00 Dimethicone 1.00B.Water(aqua) 76.65 AcetamideMEA(and)lactamideMEA(IncromectantLAMEA, Croda) 2.00 Carbomer(Ultrez10,Noveon) 0.15C.Trifolium pratense(clover)flowerextract(and)glycerin(and) butyleneglycol(and)lecithin(Sterocare,Sederma) 3.00 Thermusferment(and)glycerin(Venuceane,Sederma) 3.00 Propyleneglycol(and)diazolidinylurea(and)methylparaben (and)propylparaben(GermabenII,SuttonLabs) 1.00 100.00

Procedure:CombineAwithmixingandheatto75°C.CombineBandheatto75°C,mixingwell.SlowlyaddBtoAoverheat,mixinguntilhomogeneous.Removefromheatandcoolto60°C.AddCandmixwell.Coolto40°C,mix-inguntilhomogeneous.AdjustpHifnecessary.CooltoRTandfill.

Skin Cream Base with Magnesium Aluminum Silicate(R.T. Vanderbilt Company Inc.)

A.Magnesiumaluminumsilicate(VeegumPure,R.T.Vanderbilt) 2.00%B.Water(aqua) 79.50C.Glycerin,USP/NFGrade 2.00D.Glycerylstearate(ProtachemGMS=450,ProtameenChemicals) 2.00 Cetearylstearate(ProtachemCS-50,ProtameenChemicals) 2.00 Sodiumsteroyllactylate(PationicSSl,R.I.T.ACorp.) 1.00 Butyrospermum parkii(shea)butter(Tri-KIndustries) 2.00 Ricebranoil 4.00 Olivesqualene(Pripure3759,Uniqema) 2.00 Caprylic/caprictriglyceride(NeobeeM-5,Stepan) 2.00 Tocopherol(Covi-OXT50,Cognis) 0.50E. VitaminEAcetate,USP(BASFCorp.) 1.00F. Preservative qs

Procedure:SlowlyaddAtoB,mixingatmaximumavailableshearuntil fullyhydrated.Raisethetemperatureto80°Cwhilemixing.AddCtoABmaintain-ingthetemperatureat80°C.SeparatelycombineDandheatto80°Cwith

stirring.AddDtoABCwithadequatemixing;thenaddE.Coolto35°CwhilemixingandaddF.Continuetocoolwithmixingandpouroffat30°C.

Lychee Craving—nano Emulsion(Laboratoires Sérobiologiques)

Thisformulaisasoftandsensualnanoemulsiontohelprecoverbloominganddazzlingskin.

A.Laurylglucoside(and)polyglyceryl-2dipolyhydroxystearate (and)glycerin(EumulginVL75,Cognis) 4.00% Cetearylalcohol(LanetteO,Cognis) 2.00 Ethylhexylstearate(Cetiol868,Cognis) 4.00 Vegetableoil(and)hydrogenatedvegetableoil(and) Euphorbia cerifera(candelilla)wax(CegesoftVP,Cognis) 2.00 Dicaprylylcarbonate(CetiolCC,Cognis) 2.00 Passiflora incarnataseedoil(CegesoftPFO,Cognis) 1.00 Cocoglycerides(Myritol331,Cognis) 2.00 Dimethicone(DC200,350cts,DowCorning) 1.00 Sodiumpolyacrylate(CosmediaSP,Cognis) 0.80 Mica(and)ironoxide(CloisonnéSuperRouge450Z,Engelhard) 0.15 Mica(and)titaniumdioxide(TimironSparkleMP147,Rona) 0.15B.Water(aqua) qs100.00 Propyleneglycol(and)phenoxyethanol(and)chlorphenesin (and)methylparaben(Elestab388,LaboratoiresSérobiologiques) 2.50 Xanthangum(KeltrolCGT,Kelco) 0.20 Glycerin 4.00 Sodiumstearoylglutamate(EumulginSG,Cognis) 0.50C.Butyleneglycol(and)Litchi chinensis pericarpextract

(LitchidermLS9704,LaboratoiresSérobiologiques) 5.00 Fragrance(parfum) 0.10

Procedure:HeatAandBseparatelyat75°C.AddBintoAwhilemixingunderlow turbine stirring until 60°C. Allow to cool to RT under gentle mixing,add C at 40°C. pH: 6.8; Viscosity (mPas): 36,000 Brookfield RVT, 23°C;(NeedleC,5rpm,withHelipath).

Protective Hand Cream with SPF Protection(Lipo Chemicals)

Thisheavymoisturizingcreamdriesquicklytoaidinsofteningtheskin.Sun-screen ingredients help protect from environmental damage white oils areincorporatedtomoisturizedryhands.

A.Water(aqua) 42.22% Phenoxyethanol(and)methylparaben(and)ethylparaben (and)butylparaben(and)propylparaben(and)isobutylparaben (LiposervePP,LipoChemicals) 0.75 Glycereth-26(LiponicEG-1,LipoChemicals) 5.00 DisodiumEDTA(DissolvineNa2x,AkzoNobelChemicals) 0.10 Panthenol 0.10 Sodiumdehydroacetate(SodiumDHA,LipoChemicals) 0.10 Carbomer(Carbopol980,2%,Noveon) 18.00 Allantoin 0.10B.Glycerylstearate(and)PEG-100stearate(Lipomulse165, LipoChemicals) 3.00 Cetearylalcohol(LipocolSC,LipoChemicals) 2.50 Cetylalcohol(LipocolC,LipoChemicals) 1.25 Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate(NeoHelipanAV, Haarmann&Reimer) 7.50 Benzophenone-3(NeoHelipanBB,Haarmann&Reimer) 2.00 PEG-100stearate(Lipopeg100-S,LipoChemicals) 0.30 Hydrogenatedpolyisobutene(PanalaneL-14E,Lipo/Ineos) 5.00 Tocopherylacetate(VitaminEAcetate,BASFCorp.) 0.10 Plukenetia volubilisseedoil(LipovolWIRA,LipoChemicals) 3.00 Ceramide2 0.20 bis-Behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryldimerdilinoleyldimer dilinoleate(PlandoolG,LipoChemicals) 2.00 Hydrogenatedvegetableoil(LipoPerseaButter,LipoChemicals) 4.00 Bisabolol(LipoBisabolol,LipoChemicals) 0.10C.Sodiumhydroxide,18% 0.38D.Hyaluronicacid,1%soln 1.00E. Water(aqua) 1.00 Imidazolidinylurea(LiposerveIU,LipoChemicals) 0.30 100.00

Procedure:Inmainkettle,combineAandheatto80°Cwithpropellermixing.Insidekettle,combineBandheatto80°C.Mixuntilclearanduniform.SlowlyaddBtoAandmixfor15minoruntilemulsificationiscomplete.AddCtobatchandmixwell.Begincoolingbatch.At45–50°C,addDtobatch.At

4 | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 121, No. 7/July 2006

Skin CARE FORMULARY

30–35°C,addpremixedEtobatch.Cool to25°C.pH:5.3–5.7;Viscosity:LVT-E@0.6rpm520,000cps±10%;Stability:30daysat50°C.

illuminating Complexion Care(SEPPIC)

Thisformulaisawhiteningagentassociatedwithsunfilterstopreventagespots.

A.Glycerylstearate(and)PEG-100stearate(Simulsol165,SEPPIC)2.00% Arachidylalcohol(and)behenylalcohol

(and)arachidylglucoside(MontanovSEPPIC) 4.00 Cetylalcohol 7.00 Caprylic/caprictriglyceride 7.00 Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate(octinoxate)(UvinulMC80,BASF) 7.00 Octylsalicylate(EusolexOS,Merck) 5.00 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane(avobenzone)(Parsol1789, GivaudanRoure) 1.50 Salicylicacid 2.00 Talc(OOC,Luzenac) 1.50B.Water(aqua) qs100.00C.Undecylenoylphenylalanine(SepiwhiteMSH,SEPPIC) 2.00 Tromethamine 3.00D.Polyacrylate-13(and)polyisobutene(and)polysorbate20 (Sepiplus400,SEPPIC) 1.00 Phenoxyethanol(and)methylparaben(and)ethylparaben (and)propylparaben(and)butylparaben(SepicideHB,SEPPIC) 0.50 Xanthangum(KeltrolT,Kelco) 0.20E. Water(aqua) 10.00 Chlorophenesin 0.10 Lacticacid 3.00 Fragrance(parfum) 0.70

Procedure:MeltAandheatBseparatelyto80°C.AddCtoBtoobtainalim-pidsolution.AddBCtoAandhomogenizeafewmin(turbinerotor/statorrecommended).AddDwhilehomogenizing; thenaddEandcontinue tohomogenizeseveralminutes.CooltheemulsionundermoderateagitationandaddFataround30°C.

Precious Day Cream(Gattefossé Corp.)

Thisisalightcreamwithvelvetyskinfeel.

A.Glycerin 2.00% Water(aqua) 76.45B.Acrylate/C10-30alkylacrylatecrosspolymer(CarbopolUltrez20, Noveon) 0.15 Xanthangum(RhodicareS,Rhodia) 0.30C.Cetylalcohol(and)glycerylstearate(and)PEG-75stearate(and) ceteth-20(and)steareth-20(EmuliumDelta(GattefosséSAS) 4.00 Cetearylalcohol 2.00 Propyleneglycoldipelargonate(DPPG,GattefosséSAS) 5.00 Dimethicone(DC200Fluid,100cs,DowCorning) 2.00 Caprylic/caprictriglycerides(LabrafacCC,GattefosséSAS) 3.00 Tocopherylacetate(VitaminEAcetate,DSMNutrionalProducts) 0.50 Phenoxyethanol(and)methylparaben(and)ethylparaben(and) propylparaben(and)butylparaben(Phenonip,Nipa) 0.70D.Sodiumhydroxide,10%soln 0.30E. Butyleneglycol 2.00 Chlorphenesin 0.20F. Hematiteextract(pendingCTFAapproval)(Hema’Tite,LIBiol) 1.00 CI14700(FDCRed#4084,0.1%soln,LCW) 0.20 Fragrance(parfum)(PerfumeFrais4164,M.L.W.) 0.20 100.00

Procedure:CombineAandmixwithpropellermixer.SprinkleBintoAandheatto75°C.CombineC,mixandheatto75°C.ReplacepropellermixerwithRotorStatormixerandaddCtoAB.Mixfor10minat3,000rpm.After10min,addDandmixfor5min.ReplaceRotorStatorwithplanetarymixerandstartcooling.At50°C,addE.At35°C,addFtobatch.Resumecoolingto25°C.

Protective Cream (SPF 6)(Sinerga)

A.Potassiumpalmitoylhydrolyzedwheatprotein(and)glycerylstearate(and)cetearylalcohol(Phytocream2000,Sinerga) 2.00%

Cetearylalcohol(and)cetearylglucoside 5.00 Ethylhexylisononanoate(Dermol89) 13.00B.Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 4.00

Tocopherol(and)lecithin(and)ascorbylpalmpitate(and)citricacid 0.05

Phenethylalcohol(and)methylparaben(and)propylparaben(and)glycerin(Fenilight,Sinerga) 0.50

C.Water(aqua) qs100.00 DisodiumEDTA 0.10 Imidazolidinylurea(Gram1,Sinerga) 0.30 Glycerin 2.00D.Dimethicone 1.00E. Water(aqua)(and)algae(RedAlgaGel,Sinerga) 1.50 PotassiumCetylphosphate 0.50 PotassiumAzeloglicinadiglycinate 5.00 Fragrance(parfum) 0.50

Procedure:HeatAto70°C.AddBtoA.SeparatelyheatCto65–70°C.MixABandwarmto50°C.DisperseDfor5minunderhomomixer.Warmbatchto40°CandaddE.

CLEAnSERS/SCRUBS Sulfate-free Acne Cleanser

(Noveon)Thissulfate-freesalicylicacidfacialwashwithnourishingbeadsdemonstratesthecationiccompatibility,thickening,suspensionandclarityprovidedbypoly-acrylate-1crosspolymerinalowpHapplication.Thisformulapresentsagentlecleanserwithaprovenacne-fightingingredientthattreatsblemishesandhelpspreventbreakouts,withoutirritatingskin.

A.Water(aqua) 30.90% Polyacrylate-1crosspolymer,20%(CarbopolAquaCC Polymer,Noveon) 7.50 SodiumC14-16olefinsulfonate,40%(Bio-TergeAS-40,Stepan) 17.50 Citricacid,50% 1.00B.Water(aqua) 10.00 SodiumC14-16olefinsulfonate,40%(Bio-TergeAS-40,Stepan) 17.50 Salicylicacid 2.00C.Cocamidopropylbetaine,35%(ChembetaineCADSurfactant, Noveon) 10.00 Glycerin 1.00 PEG/PPG-8/3laurate(HydramolPGPLEster,Noveon) 1.00 Tocopherylacetate 0.10 Melaleuca laternifolia (teatree)leafoil(and)propyleneglycol (HerbasolTeaTreeExtractPG,Cosmetochem) 0.10Hamamelis virginiana(witchhazel)extract(and)propyleneglycol (HerbasolWitchHazelExtractPGDecolorized,Cosmetochem) 0.10 FD&CGreenNo.3,0.1% 0.50 Tocopherylacetate(and)lactose(and)cellulosehydroxypropyl methylcellulose(and)ironoxide(UnispheresYE-501,Induchem) 0.30D.Citricacid,50% qspH4.0

Procedure:CombineAinorder.Pre-neutralizewithDandmixuntiluniform.Inasepa-ratevessel,combineB.Mixuntilcompletelydissolved.AddBtoAandmixuntiluniform.AddDtoABinorder.Mixuntiluniform.AdjustfinalpHto4.0withD.

MiSCELLAnEOUS

Caring Face tonic(Cosmetochem)

A.Water(aqua) 77.75% Glycerin 3.00 Panthenol 0.40 Alcohol 7.00 Allantoin 0.10 Water(aqua)(and)propyleneglycol(and)mel(and)vinegar (and)phenoxyethanol(and)methylparaben(and)butylparaben (and)ethylparaben(and)propylparaben(and)isobutylparaben (HoneyHerbasolVinegarExtract,Cosmetochem) 2.00 Water(aqua)(and)alcoholdenatured(and)Rosa gallica

(and)phenoxyethanol(and)methylparaben(and)butylparaben(and)ethylparaben(and)propylparaben(and)isobutylparaben(RoseFlowerHerbasolDistillate,Cosmetochem) 2.00

Cocamidopropylbetaine(AmphotensidB4,Zschimmer&Schwarz)5.00

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Skin CARE FORMULARY

PEG-7glycerylcocoate(CetiolHE,Cognis) 2.00 Fragrance(parfum) 0.75 100.00

Procedure:MixAingivenorderwhilestirring.pH:5.4;Appearance:colorlessliquid.

Humectant Skin toner(Colonial Chemical)

A.Water(aqua) 91.15% Hydroxypropylbis-hydroxyethyldimoniumchloride(Cola Moist200,ColonialChemical) 7.15 DimethiconePEG-7avocadoate 0.50 (INCInotprovided)(ActafirmUltra,ColonialChemical) 0.50 Silkaminoacids 0.10 Fragrance(parfum)(Grapefruit127663,AFFIntl) 0.15 Polysorbate20 0.15 (INCInotprovided)(GermallII,SuttonLabs) 0.25 DisodiumEDTA 0.05 Citricacid qs Sodiumhydroxide qs

Procedure:MixAuntiluniform.pHadjusttoapproximately5.4–5.7.

Foaming Facial Cleanser with Jojoba Wax PEG Esters(Desert Whale Jojoba)

A refreshing foaming facial cleanser that is effective at removing makeupwithoutdryingtheskin.

A.Water(aqua) 51.90% Ammoniumlaurylsulfate(StepanolAMV,Stepan) 21.90 Cocamidopropylbetaine(AmphosolCG,Stepan) 8.80 JojobawaxPEG-120esters(JojobaAquaSolPEG-120, DesertWhaleJojoba) 8.80B.Pentyleneglycol(and)DMDMhydantoin(and)methylparaben (and)propylparaben(ParagonII,McIntyre) 0.90C.Sodiumchloride,10%aqsoln 7.50 FD&CBlue1,1% qs D&CYellow10,1% qsD.Polysorbate20(Tween20,UniqemaAmericas) 0.10 Fragrance(parfum) 0.10

Procedure:CombineA.Heatto65–70°Cwithlightening,thenstopheating.AddBtoAat55°Cwithlightening.AdjustviscositywithCatRTwithlightening.AddDasdesired.

Body Mask(Penreco)

Thisisasoothing,moisturizingmaskthatisappliedtothebodywhilewarm(about55°C).Afterthemaskcools,itisremoved,leavingbehindamoisturizedfeelingwithoutbeingstickyorgreasy.

A. (INCInotprovided)CAToil(and)ethylene/propylene/styrenecopolymer(and)butylene/ethylene/styrenecopolymer(VersagelR750,Penreco) 75.00%

Isopropylpalmitate(LiponateIPP,LipoChemicals) 24.00 (INCInotprovided)(FinsolvTN,Finetex) 1.00 100.00

Procedure:MixAandheatslowlytoapproximately100°Cwithstirringuntilthemixtureisuniform.Forapplication,heatformulatoabout55°Candapplytothebody.Afterthemaskcools,peeloff.

Firming Face Gel(Cornelius/Silab)

A.Water(aqua) qs100.00%B.Mica(and)CI77491(and)titaniumdioxide(GemtoneTan Opal,Cornelius/Silab) 0.30 Mica(and)titaniumdioxide(and)CI77861 0.50 Acrylate/sodiumacryloldimethyl/tauratecopolymer(and) C13-14isoparaffin(and)laureth-8 1.90 D-Panthenol,75%water 0.50C.Water(aqua)(and)Prunus amygdalus dulcis(sweetalmond) seedextract(and)methylparaben(and)propylparaben(and) ethylparaben(Polylift,Silab) 4.00

Water(aqua)(and)Secale cereale(rye)seedextract (Coheliss,Silab) 3.00 Methylchloroisothiazolinone(and)methylisothiazoline 0.20

Procedure:HeatAto70°CandaddB.Homogenizeuntilgelisthickened.StirinCandcoolwithstirring.

Massage Butter(McIntyre Group)

Thisformulameltslikebutteratbodytemperatureandhasalong“playtime”togivea luxuriousspa-likemassageexperience.This formulation isgreaterthan90%vegetable-derived.

A.Glycine soja(soybean)oil(and)hydrogenatedcottonseed oil (MackadermABI-Latum,McIntyreGroup) 52.00 Caprylic/caprictriglycerides (Captex300, McIntyreGroup) 10.00 Cetylbabassuate (MackadermCEB,McIntyreGroup) 22.95 BHT 0.05 Butyloctylcetearate (MackadermB-OC,McIntyreGroup) 15.00 Fragrance(parfum) qs Dye qs

Procedure: HeatAto45°C–50°C(orcompletelymelted)whilemixinggently.Whenhomogeneous,pourintodesiredcontainerandcoolwithoutmixing(theprod-uctwillsetupintoabutter-likeconsistency).Properties:meltingpoint=bodytemperature;appearance@25°C=soft,yellowsolid;solids,%=100.

6 | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 121, No. 7/July 2006

Skin CARE FORMULARY

B&t SrlMilan, ItalyTel: +38 (0)39-6180-447E-mail: qclab@btcompany.comWeb: www.btcompany.com

Beraca ingredientsSão Paulo, BrazilTel: +55-19-3455-8900E-mail: beraca@gruposabara.com.brWeb: www.beraca.com.br

Cognis DeutschlandDüsseldorf, GermanyTel: +49-2173-4995-0Web: www.cognis.com

Colonial Chemical inc.South Pittsburg, TNTel: +1-423-837-8800 Web: www.colonialchem.com

Cornelius/SilabBrive Cedex, FranceTel: +33-555-84-58-40E-mail: silab@silab.frWeb: www.silab.fr

CosmetochemSteinhausen, SwitzerlandTel: +41-41-748-33-33Web: www.cosmetochem.com

Croda inc.Edison, N.J., USATel: +1-732-417-0800E-mail: marketing@crodausa.comWeb: www.crodausa.com

Desert Whale JojobaTucson, Ariz., USATel: +1-520-882-4195E-mail: marketing@desertwhale.comWeb: www.desertwhale.com

EMD Chemicals/RonaHawthorne, N.Y., USATel: +1-914-592-4660E-mail: rona@emdchemicals.comWeb: www.rona.biz

Engelhard Corp.Iselin, N.J., USATel: +1-732-205-5000E-mail: cosmetics@engelhard.comWeb: www.engelhard.com

Gattefossé Corp.Paramus, N.J., USATel: +1-201-265-4800Web: www.gattefosse.com

GE Advanced MaterialsStrongsville, Ohio, USATel: +1-440-878-5677Web: www.geadvancedmaterials.com

Laboratoires Prod’Hyg/Lecticc/international Sourcing inc.Franklin Lakes N.J., USATel: +1-201-560-0111 Web: www.insourcenj.com

Laboratoires Sérobiologiques, division de Cognis FrancePulnoy, FranceTel: +33-3-83-29-97-92E-mail: customer-service.ls@cognis.comWeb: www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com

LCW—Sensient Cosmetic technologiesSaint Ouen l’Aumône, FranceTel: +33 (0)1-34-48-57-00E-mail: lcw@lcw.fr

Lipo ChemicalsPaterson, N.J., USATel: +1-973-345-8600E-mail: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.comWeb: www.lipochemicals.com

Mcintyre GroupUniversity Park, Ill., USATel: +1- 708-534-6200E-mail: info@mcintyregroup.comWeb: www.mcintyregroup.com

national Starch Personal CareFairfield, N.J., USATel: +1-973.882.1313Web: www.personalcarepolymers.com

nikko Chemicals Co. Ltd.Tokyo, JapanTel: +81-3-3661-6826Web: www.nikkol.co.jp

noveonCleveland, Ohio, USATel: +1-216-447-6117Web: www.personalcare.noveon.com

PenrecoThe Woodlands, Texas, USATel: +1-281-362-3171Web: www.penreco.com

Presperse inc.Somerset, N.J., USATel: +1-732.356.5200Web: www.presperse.com

SUPPLiER LiStinG

Vol. 121, No. 7/July 2006 www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine | �

Skin CARE FORMULARY

R.t. Vanderbilt Company inc.Norwalk, Conn., USATel: +1-203-853-1400Web: www.rtvanderbilt.com

Sabinsa Corp.Piscataway, N.J., USATel: +1-732-777-1111E-mail: info@sabinsa.comWeb: www.sabinsacosmetics.com

Sasol north America inc.Houston, Texas, USATel: +1-201-666-9918Web: www.sasol.com

Sederma SASLe Perray en Yvelines Cedex, FranceTel: +33 (0)1-34-84-10-10Web: www.sederma.fr

SeppicFairfield, N.J., USATel: +1-973-882-5597E-mail: pcseppicinc@airliquide.comWeb: www.seppic.com

Sinerga SpAMilan, ItalyTel: +39-02-33-94-01-28E-mail: marketing@sinerga.itWeb: www.sinerga.it