peter waeber
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Sustainability in the Textile Value ChainWorkshop “Food-Shelter-Clothes”, Biella-Italy, October 2010
Today’sAGENDA
1. bluesign vision2. textile production3. bluesign standard4. bluesign applications5. bluesign benefits
Resource consumptionTIME FOR CHANGE
Environmental impactFOCUS ON OUR PLANET
unchanged development
freezing current state
corporate improvements and private economisation
factor 10
Source: „The Earth“; Prof. Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek, Factor 10 Institute, F 83660 Carnoules
Past present
future
Global Mass Flow
Development scenariosGLOBAL MASS FLOW
Today’sAGENDA
1. bluesign vision2. textile production3. bluesign standard4. bluesign applications5. bluesign benefits
Textile productionCURRENT SITUATION
Regulations in textile manufacturing becomes more and more complex. Too many Restricted Substances Lists (RSLs) & Eco Lables, and legislation such as the new “Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals” (REACH)
Textile productionBLACK HOLE
Chemical Consumption Synthetics? g/kg TEXTILE
Chemical Consumption Cotton? g/kg TEXTILE
Chemical Consumption Synthetics110 - 820 g/kg TEXTILE
Chemical Consumption Cotton350 - 1,500 g/kg TEXTILE
Worldwide chemical use25 % DIRECT AND INDIRECT IN THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY (Source: Greenpeace Germany)
Practical experienceMATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
Recent European ECLIPS study shows:
Many MSDS are of generally poor quality
Large amount of products and substances not classified correctly
Much of important information not available
Implementation of EU-Directive deficient in 69%
For finishing of 1 kilogramme textileUP TO 700 LITRES of FRESH WATER
The annual water usage of one big brand demands the water of 2,000 SMALL LAKES
TodayOUTPUT TESTING – MISLEADING?
What you don’t see at the end-productOCCUPATIONAL HEALTH & SAFETY
What you don’t see at the end-productWATER EMISSION
What you don’t see at the end-productAIR EMISSION
What you don’t see at the end-productWASTE MANAGEMENT
UFP'sCO2
NOx
CH4
SO2
you do not see at the end-product
what you do not see at the end-productWhat you don’t see at the end-productEND-OF-PIPE SITUATION
What you don’t see at the end-productRESOURCE EFFICIENCY IN PROCESSING
Textile productionNEED FOR CHEMICALS
Chemicals give colour and performance Chemicals are not “bad” – if applied
correctly A “safe” chemical used badly can be
many times more polluting than a classified chemical used correctly
“If you don’t know, you don’t care!”
What you must know HOW IS YOUR PRODUCT MADE?
Today’sAGENDA
1. bluesign vision2. textile production3. bluesign standard4. bluesign applications5. bluesign benefits
Tackle the problem at its rootsINPUT STREAM MANAGEMENT
Tackle the challenge at its roots. Input control instead of only consumer testing at the end. All resources on the input side from raw materials, water, energy, and chemicals are managed with a sophisticated "Input Stream Management" System.
The bluesign® standardWORLDWIDE INDUSTRY STANDARD
SustainabilityEcological footprint / Resource productivityEconomic successSocial responsibility
Environment, Health & SafetyNo dangerous emissionConsumer protectionSafety at the workplace
The bluesign® standardSET-UP
No compromise in functionality quality design
Best Available Technology (BAT) From the industry – for the industry Input Stream Management System Chemical rating system Resource optimisation concept Holistic approach includes all types of
textiles On-site inspections worldwide Solution provider with technical service
Qualitative comparisonHOLISTIC APPROACH
Eco LabelsEco Labels
Various RSLsVarious RSLs
OrganicOrganic
EU Eco FlowerEU Eco Flower
bluesignbluesign®® standard standard
Consumer Safety Environment Resources & Processes
Mark
et
Pen
etr
ati
on
Today’sAGENDA
1. bluesign vision2. textile production3. bluesign standard4. bluesign applications5. bluesign benefits
bluesign® screeningbasis for EHS-Management
“The bluesign® standard is the best insurance for tomorrow’s products.”
Detlef Fischer, Vice President, bluesign technologies ag
WasteWaste Water
EndProduct
RawMaterial
Water
Production
Air Emission
Energy
Full transparency in the production
Breaking down complex EHS-issues to a manageable level
Indication of resources and cost saving potentials compared to “Best Available Technology”
Safety for manufacturers, retailers and brands, consumers, and the environment
The bluesign® bluetoolapplication for chemical suppliers
“We have to re-learn that quality is more important than quantity.”
Peter Johnson, Product EHS Dept. Product Steward, Huntsman
The science gateway to homologate chemical products.Access an independent, expert third party to evaluate and register your chemical productsbluesign® approved chemical products comply with global RSLs, eco labels, and legislationsGet your bluesign® approved chemical products published on the bluesign® bluefinder
The bluesign® bluefinderapplication for textile manufacturers
“Partnering with bluesign to support their efforts to raise industry standards for sustainability makes sense for our business, our customers and the environment.”
Andy Vecchione, President, Polartec
Advanced search engine for bluesign® approved chemical products.Optimise chemical sourcing regarding consumer safety using the bluesign® bluefinderThe bluesign® bluefinder provides comprehensive information about sustainable productionGet access to manufacturers of bluesign® approved chemicals, dyestuffs, and auxiliaries
The bluesign® blueguideapplication for brands and retailers
“Bring more transparency into the supply chain.”
Jill Dumain, Director of Environmental Strategy, Patagonia
Comprehensive database for bluesign® certified textiles.Access to a comprehensive sourcing instrument for sustainable textiles, accessories, and trimsGet extensive information about environment, health, and safety issuesAccess to manufacturers of bluesign® approved fabrics
Today’sAGENDA
1. bluesign vision2. textile production3. bluesign standard4. bluesign applications5. bluesign benefits
“In the 1st year of our membership with bluesign technologies, we were able to reduce:
water by 40% energy by 20% = cost reduction in energy of 1.44 million USD per year! chemicals in the waste water by 53%
The bluesign® standard combines eco-friendliness and economic benefits.”
Ching-Lai Yeh, President, Everest Textile Co., Ltd. Taiwan
bluesign® benefitsEXPERIENCE OF A MANUFACTURER
Last year, bluesign technologies was able to save a total of 3,120 tons of solvents thanks to various bluesign® screenings and the subsequent implementation of the bluesign® standard. This is equivalent to a cargo train with 78 wagons!
Resource managementRESULT ON MANUFACTURER’S SITE
The bluesign® community:sustainability is a team sport
Inspire chemical suppliers, textile manufacturers, brands and retailers to work today for a better tomorrow.
“The bluesign® standard is the gold standard.”
Kevin Myette, Director of Product Integrity, REI
bluesign technologies agEMPA BuildingLerchenfeldstrasse 5CH-9014 St.GallenSwitzerlandwww.bluesign.com
THANK YOU!
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