natural standards · beauty (fr), codecheck (de), goodguide (us) • clean beauty claims: “free...

Lipid knowledge for the personal care industry

Natural StandardsCosmos, Natrue, ISO 16128

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Global natural Personal Care market 2017: – US$ 12 billion, estimated to grow 10% CAGR 2018–2025 – US$ 460 billion, estimated to grow 3 % CAGR 2017-2022

Natural ingredients with a local approach and technology that does not compromise on efficacy

– Increased awareness of consumers on origin & safety of ingredients

• Clean beauty apps: Quel Cosmetique (FR), Officinea Clean Beauty (FR), Codecheck (DE), Goodguide (US)

• Clean beauty claims: “Free From” and minimalistic formulations

– Megatrends: Healthy and ethical living• Health & wellbeing, environmental concerns, sustainability,

animal welfare, fair for communities, biodiversity are some of the drivers

”Green” market – Key trends and drivers

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Initial goal− Simplify communication to consumers− Avoid greenwashing with pseudo-natural products

1st Solution: local and regional private standards developed by NGOs with a commercial interest in selling their brand

2nd Solution: harmonization with a global initiative to avoid commercial bias – ISO 16128 (2016/2017)

Need for “Natural standards”

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Definitions of Natural/Organic/Derived Natural/Derived Organic

Calculations specified

Processes taken into account− List of forbidden processes (in COSMOS only/For ISO: list of processes

that lead to non natural ingredients)− List of approved processes (in COSMOS, Natrue & ISO)

Solvents taken into account− List of approved solvents (in COSMOS, Natrue/Not in ISO)

Sustainability taken into account− In both COSMOS & Natrue/Not in ISO

Packaging criterias− In both COSMOS & Natrue/Not in ISO

Standards Valid for all standards/norms

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Background: − 2002: Initiative started with 5 members to develop a harmonized

standard: Ecocert, Cosmebio, BDIH, Soil association, & ICEA− 2008: Publication and entering into force in January 2010− 01.2017:Certification only possible under COSMOS− Certification bodies: Ecocert Greenlife, Cosmecert (Cosmebio), Bureau

Veritas, Soil Association, ICEA…

Reach: European but becoming more worldwide: ex Australia, Korea

Main Principles: − Integrate Green Chemistry Principles− Toxicity & biodegradability taken into account

COSMOS: COSMetic Organic Standard

Standard

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2 categories of natural ingredients: – PPAI (Physically Processed Agricultural Ingredients) – CPAI (Chemically Processed Agricultural Ingredients)

2 categories of formulations: – COSMOS Natural – COSMOS Organic (with precise conditions on content of organic and

natural ingredients)

AAK position:– AAK has made its ingredients approved by COSMOS and ECOCERT – Approved ≠ Certified as certified only valid for organic requires

auditing– Most are either CPAI or PPAI– Official list is only available on the website or at Ecocert Greenlife

COSMOS: COSMetic Organic Standard

Standard

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Background− International Association founded by mostly German companies

(Weleda, Laverana (Lavera), Wala (Dr Hauschka), Logocos(Logona)…) in 2007

− Certification bodies: Only independent 3rd Parties

Reach: Mostly German but harmonized with NSF in the US

Main Principles: − Levels of ”Natural” & ”Derived Natural” according to categories− 13 Categories Defined− Synthetics (≠ Nature identical) not allowed, water not taken into

account as natural

Natrue Standard

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2 main categories of ingredients: – Natural (Physically processed only) – Derived Natural (Chemical transformation)

3 categories of formulations: – NATURAL COSMETICS– NATURAL COSMETICS WITH ORGANIC PORTION– ORGANIC COSMETICS

AAK’s position:– Our ingredients are generally not submitted for approval to Natrue, but

most meet the Natrue criteria– We offer the option to fill in the documents on request

Natrue Standard

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Natural & Organic Standards

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Private standards as defined before dominate in Europe & US

Ideally have a globally recognized seal to define Natural & Organic :

ISO initiative ISO 16128:1 & 16128:2 :

Harmonization of definitions/criteria/calculations for natural/organic

4 Categories defined: – Natural/Derived Natural/Organic/Derived Organic

Processes taken into account

Based on Green Chemistry Principles

Official standards: wish for further global harmonization

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ISO 16128-1:2016: Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products -- Part 1: Definitions for ingredients – Ingredients

− Determines definitions and classification of ingredients

ISO 16128-2:2017: Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products -- Part 2: Criteria for ingredients and products

– Product Content− Calculates indexes (of ingredients) and product content (for finished products):

− Natural & Natural origin − Organic & Organic origin

AAK Position:– AAK active member of ISO (through AFNOR membership) in WG4

(TC-217: Cosmetics)– AAK statement with our interpretation:

• Organic: only Akogreen O• Natural: when physical process only• Derived Natural: when chemical process involved

ISO 16128 Norm

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Despite the wish for global harmonization, the ISO Norm has been criticized, mainly by COSMOS, as being too weak

Private standards have a more comprehensive approach– Giving definitions and calculation of contents, but also

• Specifying a minimum for natural / organic products• Giving limitations for use of synthetic products

– Considering the formulation, packaging, animal welfare, sustainability.– Giving a guarantee with an annual certification process…– Work on ISO Norm is ongoing with more guidelines to come

ISO vs private standards

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Consider which standard to use, or not….

Select ingredients that fit with the standard

Take a holistic view of the formulation– Ingredients used in larger quantities have a bigger impact

• Replacing 0.5% of an ingredient does not change the world or your formulation

– Some technologies are difficult to replace with natural technologies due to specific chemical and physical properties

• Example: silicones. You can often reduce the level without losing efficacy

– Sometimes emulsifiers and auxiliary ingredients need to be adjusted for best performance in a natural formulation

Going natural?

© 2018 AAK Sweden ABNo part of this presentation may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the prior written permission of AAK Sweden AB. Disclaimer: This presentation is intended for educational purposes only. AAK Sweden AB shall not be liable for any third-party claims or losses of any nature, including, but not limited to, lost profits, punitive or consequential damages.

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