i. certificate 1 ii. iii. iv.docshare04.docshare.tips/files/19920/199203953.pdf · i. certificate 1...

I. Certificate 1

II. Acknowledgement 2

III. Contents 3

IV. Honda history 4

V. Honda overview 7

VI. H.M.S.I Plant Detail 13

VII. Products of HMSI 16

I. Activa 16

II. Aviator 18

III. Dio 20

IV. CB Shine 22

V. Stunner CBF 24

VI. CB Unicorn 26

VII. Twister CB 110 28

VIII. CB Unicorn Dazzler 30

HONDAHISTORY

HONDA is a multinational company which

is founded by Late Mr. Soichiro Honda and

established by Mr. Hamamatsu (Japan) on

24th Sep. 1948.

Late Mr. Soichiro Honda dreamt of

providing people, everywhere in the world

an economical means of transportation. He

invented better ways of making piston

rings and found a company around the

idea and began production. Then his

company started producing small

motorcycles, including one built-in 1949

called D-type dream.

Then he thought of high capacity motorcycles and taking them to racing. So his

company made bigger and faster machines, two-, four-, five-, and six- cylinder

race bikes and participated in the LSLE of Man TT race (125cc MC class).

Honda began manufacturing motorcycles at its Suzuki factory in 1960. Honda

launched its first sports car, the S500 in Japan and entered Formula-1 in 1964.

In 1989, Soichiro Honda became the first Asian to be inducted into U.S.

Automotive Hall of Fame. In 1990, Honda wins its fifth consecutive 1st ranking in

the J.D. Power Consumer Satisfaction Index. In 1993, founder Soichiro Honda

passed away. He dreamt of changing the way people looked at motorcycles and

gave us machines that were powerful and fun to ride. Soichiro Honda’s dreams

changed the world of motorcycling forever.

Today, Honda is a juggernaut, offering class-leading machines in most every

category.

1906Soichiro Honda is born in Hamamatsu, Japan. His father owns a blacksmith

shop that also repairs bicycles. As a young man, Honda is an apprentice in an

automotive garage in Tokyo.

1928Honda returns to Hamamatsu to open his own auto repair shop. Enamored

with speed, he builds his own race car.

1936Honda is injured in an auto racing accident.

1937He forms a company to manufacture piston rings. After a shaky start (owing

mostly to his complete lack of formal training in metallurgy) his company becomes

successful. He is a key supplier to Toyota, which starts manufacturing cars at about

the same time.

1946Soichiro Honda sells his piston-ring business. Japan is struggling to regain

some semblance of normalcy, after having been bombed flat at the end of WWII.

Honda realizes the need for affordable transportation and begins grafting war-

surplus two-stroke motors onto bicycles. (The motors had originally been intended

for use on portable generators for military radios).

1948Honda Motor Co. Ltd is incorporated. Soichiro Honda focuses on the

engineering side of the business, while financial operations are controlled by Takeo

Fujisawa.

1949The Company produces its first real motorcycle, powered by a 98cc a two-stroke

motor. When an employee sees the first one assembled and it is ridden outside the

factory, he says, “It’s like a dream.” The name “Dream” was adopted for the bike,

officially known as Model D.

1951Mr. Honda is infuriated by the noise, smell and fumes from the two-stroke

motorbikes (including his own) that crowd Japanese city streets. In response, the

company creates its first four-stroke motorcycle, the Dream E (146cc).

1952Despite the fact that he despises such “primitive” power plants, Honda flirts

with his original notion of auxiliary motors for bicycles.

1953The Benly J (4-stroke, 90cc) is released. At least some of these were sold with

“Benly” tank-badges, and carried the Honda name on engine cases only. The Benly

series also lasted a long time, and ushered in an era of improved performance. They

were immediately popular with Japan’s amateur racers.

1961Honda dominates both the 125cc and 250cc classes at the TT. Mike Hailwood

wins both races, with Hondas finishing 1st through 5th positions in each case. The

Isle of Man Examiner newspaper says simply, “It was a devastating win for the

Orient.”

1963This year, Honda focuses on F-1 car racing, and the motorcycle racing

program suffers. Sales of street bikes remain strong, however: the Super Cub is

awarded the French Mode Cup; Honda opens its first overseas plant in Belgium;

Grey Advertising unveils the famous “You meet the nicest people on a Honda”

campaign.

1964Two-stroke motors begin to dominate the smaller-displacement racing classes.

In order to remain competitive in the 250cc classes, while still relying on four-stroke

motors, Honda produces a six-cylinder 250, the 3RC164..

1969Honda unveiled the CB750 at the Tokyo Motor Show in late ’68, but it didn’t

hit the market until early ’69. It is impossible to overstate the impact this bike made,

as the first modern mass-market four, and the first mass-market bike to come with a

disc brake.

1970Honda entered four riders in the Daytona 200, but only one–Dick Mann–

finished. The three DNFs were completely overshadowed by Mann’s victory. It was

a huge win for Honda in America. That year, the 200 grid also included all-new

triples from Triumph and BSA, and the first XR750 Harley-Davidsons.

1993The CBR900RR stuns the sport bike world. Designed by Tadao Baba, the “Fire

blade” combines the power of an open-class motorcycle with the weight and

handling of a 600.

1995The radical EXP-2 (two-stroke 400cc) wins its class in the Granada-Dakar

rally. The bike is the proof-of-concept for a cleaner burning and more powerful two-

stroke engine concept that uses a pivoting “valve” to close the exhaust port.

2001Valentino Rossi wins the last ever 500cc World Championship on the NSR500

two-stroke.

2002All change. Or not. Rossi wins the first World Championship in the 990cc Moto

GP era, on the five-cylinder four-stroke RC211V. Valentino Rossi wins the last ever

500cc World Championship on the NSR500 two-stroke.

2004Honda prototypes a motorcycle powered by a fuel cell.

2006The 50,000,000th Super Cub is sold.

2007Honda is the first manufacturer to offer a motorcycle with air bag crash

protection.

HONDAOVERVIEW

Presently Mr. Takeo Fukui is the President of the Honda Motors, Japan.

Currently:-

41ston Fortune 500 Companies

26th on Global most admired

Revenue –

US $ 54.77 Billion

Capital –

¥ 86,067 Million (as of March 31st, 2005)

Sales (Result of Fiscal 2005)

Consolidated: ¥ 8,650,105 Million

Unconsolidated: ¥ 3,489,106 Million

319 Subsidiaries (as of March 31st, 2005)

Employees Honda Worldwide –

137,827 (as of March 31st, 2005)

Six Operating Regions –

North/Central America

South America

Afro-Europe

Asia & Oceania

Product Categories –

Automobiles

Power Products

H.M.S.I. plant Detail:-

SR. NO. PARTICULAR DETAIL

1. LOCATION INDIA Approx.45kms. from New Delhi

2. INCORPORATION Aug. 20, 1999

3. EQUITY CAPITAL Rs.300crores (Approx. 7500million Yen)

4. AREA Land Area- 210,000sq.m. Covered Area-85,815sq.m.

5. EMPLOYERS 3729 Associates-Japanes-15 - Permanent 63.0% - Temporary 37.0%

6. PRODUCTS Scooter- Activa/Dio/Aviator Motorcycle- Unicorn/Shine/Twister/Dazzler/Unicorn

7. PLANT CAPACITY 900,000 CBU’s per Annum SC-600,000 MC- 300,000

8. INDIGENIZATION 100%

9. DIRECTOR Mr.Y.Aoshima (President & CEO), Mr.H.Nagata (Sr.VP),Mr.Y.Mizutani (Dir.), Mr.H.Iwakami (Dir.) ,Mr.M.Kato (Dir.) , Mr.T.Oyama (ASH) , Mr.M. Takedagawa (HSCI) , Mr.K.Nakazono (HM-J)

Repair & Maintenance of Motorcycle

Maintenance: -

Performing regular maintenance on a motorcycle will improve its

performance and longevity, and reduce the risk of breakdowns. The exact

schedule for a particular motorcycle will depend on how it is used: its

weekly mileage, the weather conditions, road (or off road) surface

conditions and so on. Most parts will need attention and possible

replacement every year or two; if this is done, however, a motorcycle can be

maintained in good working order for decades.

The schedule given here is a starting point for an average bike, assuming

daily or weekly use; you will soon adjust this based on your own

experience.

Every ride:

1. Check the tyres are inflated (a quick pinch to ensure they are hard

generally suffices).

2. Check both wheels will rotate without sticking.

3. Squeeze both brakes to make sure they engage properly (this is

especially important if you have been working on the bike and may have

disconnected the brake cables).

4. Check for obvious loose parts.

5. Check you have working lights, a lock and a key if you will need them

before you return.

6. After the ride, if the moving parts have got muddy or picked up road salt,

give the bike a quick hose down. It's much easier doing it now than after

it has dried!

(washing with a bike cleaner helps get rid of dried on and hard to get off

grime.)

Once a week:

1. Lubricate the chain.

2. Re-inflate the tyres to the correct pressure.

3. Rotate wheels to check that they are in true. Replace any broken spokes -

other spokes will break and the wheel will be permanently bent if ridden

in this condition.

4. Clean the Air-cleaner with petrol & air pressure And then lubricate the

surface with lubricant/Mobil oil.

Quarterly:

1. Check the brakes to ensure they are correctly adjusted, and that the pads

are not worn.

2. Check derailleur adjustment.

3. Check screws or bolts holding attachments such as mudguards, racks,

bottles etc are tight.

4. Check brake and gear cables for fraying or rusting, and lubricate.

5. Grease seat post. It may not technically be a moving part, but it is not

desirable for it to become permanently stuck.

6. Check tyres for signs of wear, bulges or splitting. (replace immediately).

7. Check handlebars are aligned properly with front wheel.

8. Check reflectors (if required) are still attached.

9. Check the chain for wear.

At least every two years:

1. Replace the chain and front or rear sprockets.

2. Complete disassembly, cleaning, and lubricate all moving parts.

3. Check bottom bracket and wheel hubs for excessive play and replace if

4. Check derailleur jockey wheels for wear, replace them if worn. *TIP* If

the "teeth" of the jockey wheels or front or rear sprokets look sharp and

pointy, Replace. (if rear cassette is worn, you will need to replace chain

at the same time).

5. Grease metal-to-metal contact points.

6. Check saddle for splitting, and handlebar grips or tape for perishing or

fraying.

7. Check headset; tighten or replace bearings as necessary.

Repair:

Repair is done when any part of bike is broken or damaged. In this we

replace/service the effected part. Repairing of some parts is below:

AIR-CLEANER:-

Air cleaners are a real necessity. You are right to clean them and clean them often.

You will be recompensed with long engine life for your righteous efforts! I once

read a test on how much dirt was needed to ruin an engine. It was almost nothing.

Seems the dirt gets imbedded in the soft aluminium of the piston and then just

grinds away like sandpaper. Always run your bike with the air cleaner installed.

Most motorcycle air cleaners are one of three types. Oiled foam, oiled fabric, and

dry paper.

1. Oiled foam:

Oiled foam is very popular with dirt bikes. On Oiled Foam filters the real filter is the

oil. The foam is only a support for the oil. Sort of like a skeleton. You must oil the

foam on these filters. If you do not, the filter will not work! To

clean them, rinse in solvent several times

or until clean. Then ring them out, and let

them dry. Lastly, put on a fair amount of oil

and work the oil into the foam with your hands. You can buy special air filter oil or

use regular 30w engine oil. 90w gear oil also works good.

2. Fabric filters:

Fabric filters, have a surgical type of fabric inside a

metal mesh. They work very well and seem to flow a

lot of air. They use a special oil you get from the air

filter maker (K&N). Clean them with soap and water, let dry, and

then re-oil. With care, they last quite a while.

3. Paper filter

Paper filter are used on a lot of street motorcycles. They work

good when new and clean. If they get wet, they stop passing

air. When they dry out, they usually start working again, but don't flow air as well

as before getting wet. The water seems to stick the paper fibers together hurting

the air flow. If the bike has been sitting a long time, the paper filters absorb water

from the air and this starts to plug them up. While you can clean them somewhat

by blowing with compressed air the only real way to clean them is to replace them

with a new one.

Felton and Uri

Felton and Uri also make sock type air cleaners. These are

especially helpful if the rubber air tube, going from the

carburettor to the air box, is old, rock hard and shrunk. Lots of times, on an old bike,

you can't get a new air tube. So take the air box off and put on a sock air cleaner,

clamping it on to the end of the carburettor. You might want to make some sort of

cover for it to keep water off the foam.

Take good care of your air cleaner. If you don't, sooner or

later you will regret it !

GEAR BOX:

Motorcycle engines do not produce all their power at all RPM's. There is very little power at idle and the power goes up as the engine RPM goes up. At a certain RPM, which is different for each engine, the power goes up quickly and continues to increase until it hits the maximum RPM for that engine. This is called the “Power Band ". Generally small, high revving 2/strokes have a narrow power band, requiring lots of gears in the gear box. Large, low revving 4/strokes have a big power band and don't need so many gears.

Any way you go, you need some kind of gear box to keep the engine RPM

within it's power band, while providing the bike with a good acceleration,

and speed range. While there are lots of styles and types of gear boxes, I

think they all seem to boil down to three different crankcase types.

1. 2. 3.

1. Horizontally split: The crankcase has a seam on the horizontal plane.

2. Vertically split: The crankcase has a seam on the vertical plane.

3. Cassette type: The gears are loaded in from one side.

Working & Construction of GEAR BOX: In the motorcycle gearbox there are two shafts. In most of them, the one with the

clutch on the end of it is the main shaft. The other is the countershaft and it has the

countershaft sprocket on one end of it. A few have the clutch and counter sprocket on

the same shaft. Some of the gears are fixed and/or machined to the transmission

shafts. The other gears slide or spin on these shafts. The gears that slide back and forth

on the shafts have what are called Dogs. These Dogs are knobs of metal that fit into

holes in the gears beside them, locking the two gears together. The sliding gears are

moved back and forth by Shifter Forks which in turn are moved by a shifter drum. The

Shifter Forks are usually attached to the Shifter Drum or move in a groove machined in

the Shifter Drum. This drum is turned or rotated, through different styles of linkages,

by the gear Shifter Shaft. As the gears move back and forth they lock the main shaft

and counter shaft together thru each set of gears, giving us 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc. A few

use a grooved plate to move the shift forks.

When you pull the gears out, DON'T just dump the gears out on the floor like a sack of potatoes. Pull them out gently, as a unit. On some it is best to pull both shaft, drum and the shift forks together. On others it's best to remove the the shafts that hold the shifter forks and remove them first, then the drum, and then the gear clusters. On some makes the gears are kept on the shafts by circlips. On others, the gears can fall right off. Often there are shims (thin, large washers) on the ends of the shafts. These shims are used to position the gears and take up any side play, so look for them when you pull any shaft out. They tend to stick to the bearings. You may need to clean the part of the counter shaft that is outside the crankcase. You know, where the countershaft sprocket is. Get all that rust and dirt off it, so it will slide on out through the bearing. When disassemble the gear shafts, use a cardboard egg crate to hold the gear parts in the order that you disassemble them. If the transmission wants to jump out of gear, usually second gear, under power, take a good look at both the Dogs and the holes they fit in and the sides of the Shifter Forks for wear. If there is any wear at all on these parts replace them.

If the gear has broken teeth it is a good idea to replace both it and its mate on the

other gear shaft. Normally broken teeth make quite a bit of noise. Sometimes, there is

a lot of noise, but when you get the gear out nothing looks broken. Look for a bent

tooth or a tooth with a bit of debris stuck on it. It could be a bit of steel, aluminium,

who knows what, it can still make noise.

ENGINE:

In an engine these things occur as part of a cycle. That cycle is basically this -SUCK, SQUEEZE, BURN, and BLOW. The fuel mixture must be brought into the cylinder -SUCK, compressed -SQUEEZE, ignited -

BURN, and then expelled from the cylinder -BLOW. All reciprocating engines must go through these steps no matter what the design of the engine (two-stroke, four-stroke, whatever).

Four-Stroke: In a Four-Stroke engine the intake valve opens and the piston goes down, sucking the fuel mixture into the cylinder. The intake valve then closes as the piston comes back up squeezing the mixture. Spark now occurs and the burning gases expand, pushing the piston down with lots of power. As the piston comes up again, the exhaust valve opens and the burnt gases are blown out of the engine and the process starts over again.

This is all done in four strokes of the piston. Piston down... Piston up... Piston down... Piston up.

An engine is a machine for

converting thermal energy into

mechanical energy or power to

produce force and motion. To start any engine, two or Four

stroke, you must have Three things.

One- A burnable mixture of something. It can

be gasoline, starting fluid, carburetor cleaner,

shoot, it could be spray deodorant! But it must

be able to burn.

Two- It must be compressed, that is under

compression by the piston.

Three- there must be a way to ignite the

compressed mixture at the right time.

Two-Stroke:

In a Two-Stroke engine the piston goes down, compressing the fuel mixture under the piston and blowing it into the cylinder. As this mixture blows in it also blows the burnt exhaust gases out. The fuel mixture is blown into the cylinder through passages (Ports) in the cylinder walls. The piston comes up, covering the ports in the cylinder walls and compressing or squeezing the mixture. This also creates a vacuum in the crankcase under the piston, sucking the fuel mixture into the crankcase. The spark then ignites the mixture and the burning gases push the piston down, starting everything again.

This is all done in two strokes of the piston.

Piston down... Piston up.

“That's all there is to it. There are other engine designs but they are not

used much. The rotary engine was used on several makes of motorcycle, but

not many were made and they all have been gone for many years.”

Parts Of Engine:

CARBURETOR:

To get to the jets you will have to

take the carbureter off the engine.

A shop manual will be very helpful

here for float settings and

exploded pictures of the

carburetor. Take the float bowl off

and remove the jets. Sounds so

easy don’t it? Sometimes it is, and

other times it's a mass of gook. If it

is, scrap as much of the gook out as possible, and boil out the rest with carbureter

cleaner. Now don't throw the whole thing in the cleaner, look at it first. Does it

have rubber seals on the throttle shafts? Look close... sometimes these seals are

hard to see and are not shown in the parts books, meaning you can't get them so

you do not want to ruin them. If they are there and you can't get them you will

have to scrap and clean the carbureter body carefully by hand and not soak it.

Before you remove the air screw, turn it in till it bottoms, counting the turns.

When you replace it, set it at this setting to st art. Sometimes there is a rubber o-

ring and steel washer under the air screw spring. Look for it and if there is one,

dig it out with a needle BEFORE you spray carbureter cleaner in there. The air

screw may be covered by a plug similar to this one. You will have to remove this

plug to get to it. I usually set the air screw about 1 & 1/4 turns out, if I don't have

a setting.

When the engine is warm, turn the screw in till the engine stumbles, then out til l

it stumbles, and leave it at half way in between. Adjust the idle with the throttle

Carburetor is a device which is use for

mixing of the air & fuel Mix in a proper

ratio. If it won't start, or only runs

with the enrichening lever pulled out,

you have one or more jets plugged.

Notice I said enrichening lever...most

of the motorcycle carburettor have

enrichening passages inside the

carburettor that, WHEN THE

THROTTLE IS CLOSED, provide the rich

air/fuel mixture to start the engine. If

you open the throttle any at all it cuts

this enrichening out of the system. So

if you are having trouble starting, and

everything looks ok, see if closing the

throttle helps. This does not apply to

carburettor with a butterfly choke .

stop screw as needed. You will need to remove the Main jet and the Needle jet. The

Main jet is usually screwed on to the lower end of the Needle jet, locking it into

the carbureter. Remove the main jet and tap out the needle jet. Do this very

carefully. It can break very easily. Sometimes the needle jet will have an O -ring.

Remove the O-ring and soak both main jet and needle jet in carbereter cleaner.

When you put it back in there is a pin in the carbureter body that fits in a gro ve

on the needle jet. Make sure they match up. There are only two adjustments that

you can make from outside the carbureter. The idle screw ( Throttle stop screw )

adjusts the speed of the idle. The idle air screw adjusts the idle mixture. This is only

at idle and does not effect anything above idle. Here is another method to adjust it.

Screw the air screw in and out until you get the highest idle speed. Then lower the

idle speed with the idle screw and do it again until you get the best idle. The air

screw can be located on the right or left side of the carbureter. It can also be on the

top or bottom, in the front of the carbureter too! To top it off, if you have a 1980 or

newer machine, it may have a cover over it to keep you from messing with it. You

will have to drill or pry it out some how. Watch out, it may be illegal for you to do

this, depending on where you live.

If you can't get it to idle, or rather the idle stays

real high then drops off and dies, check for an air leak at the carbureter manifold.

Squirt some gas or starting fluid on the manifold and see if the revs change. If they

do, you have a leak. If your valves clearances are too tight, it will also effect the

idle. You can make your air /fuel mixture a bit richer or leaner by moving the

carburetor needle clip up or down. Move the clip down a notch to raise the needle,

to richer the mixture. Move the clip up to lower the needle, to lean out the mixture.

The needle is located in the throttle slide.

You should always turn the fuel off. If you

don't and the carbureter inlet needle fails, it will fill your crankcas e full of gas.

Not good. If you have a four stroke, it thins out the oil and parts start to weld

together... really not good. If you have a two stroke it will fill up the crankcase

with fuel and can cause it to hydraulically lock. But at least it will not overheat

the engine. A lot of newer bikes have a fuel petcock with a diaphram that only

lets fuel into the carbureter if the engine is running. It operates on vaccume

pressure. Normally you have three settings. On, reserve, and Prime. Prime

bypasses the diaphram to let fuel into the carbureter after it has set a long time .

Finally, a word on parts. Use only the carbureter manufacturer’s

brand of parts. Do not use aftermarket carb kits or parts. Their

quality control is lousy (all of them! ) Trust me on this; I speak

from way too much experience.

GASKETS:

Gaskets are made to expand just a

little when oil hits them. This

makes a good, oil tight seal. If your

sealing surfaces are smooth and

you have a new gasket, you simply

do not need gasket cement. A real

sign of an amateur is lots of

slobbery gasket cement. So do you

put the gasket on dry? No, you use

plain ordinary wheel bearing

grease. I use grease on all new

gaskets except the ones that come

from the factory with a special

coating already put on. The grease

serves several functions. It

will hold the gasket in place as you

put the two pieces together.

It allows the gasket to move

around a bit as you put in the

screws.

It starts the swelling process that

the oil will finish.

It allows you to disassemble things

easily if an error is made and

allows you to reuse the same gasket

after you fix that error. Not that I

ever make errors... well... I did once.

I thought I had made an error,

turned out I hadn't !

It allows easy disassembly in the

dim, dark future.

Always use new gaskets. They

are not that expensive. Reusing

old gaskets is not a good idea

but can be done in an

emergency if they are in good

condition. Here you can and

should use gasket cement.

Gaskets come in different

thickness. Sometimes the

gasket thickness is used to set

the side clearance on the shafts

that pass through a crankcase.

So if you make your own

gaskets be sure to match the

thickness of the old to the new.

It goes without saying that all of the old

gasket must be removed and that you

don't want to nick or gouge the metal

surface. A big help in this is liquid gasket

remover. You can get it in a spray can or in

a brush on can. I like the spray. It just

seems to work better. Just spray it on and

wait awhile. If the gasket is still hard,

spray it several times and wait overnight.

BRAKES:

The function of Brake system in a bike is to bring or slow down

its motion. The principle of operation is based on the principle of Friction.

When a moving element is brought into contact with a stationary element,

the motion of the moving element is affected. This happens because of

friction force which always acts in the opposite direction of the motion and

converts the kinematic energy into heat energy. The magnitude of friction

depends upon the type and quality of the surface in contact, the force

pressing the two together and the speed of the moving items.

Type of brake:-

1. Drum Brake

Drum Brakes are used mostly

on the rear wheel these days. If

you are working on early

1980s, or earlier, you will find

them on the front wheel too.

They come in two general

types. Single Leading Shoe and

Twin (Dual) Leading Shoe.

2. Disc Brake

TIRES & TUBES: I hate changing tires. They are a pain in the rear, or front, as the case may be. I charge way too much money to change a tire or tube in hope that they will take it somewhere else! If you have a tire changing machine, it's real easy. I'm poor. I don't have a machine. I have tire irons, a bad back, and a weak mind. The best way to change a tire or tube is to take it to someone else and have them do it. But you want to do it yourself, don't you? and I'll bet you don't want a hole in the tube either.

There are a number of secrets to changing tires and tubes without putting a hole in the tube.

1. You need the right Tire Irons. 2. Lube of some sort.

3. A breezer tire tool.

4. A bead breaker of some kind. 5. Compressed air (politicians should have no trouble with this!)

6. Something to expand the bead ( if necessary ) and, finally,

7. A little bit of knowledge!

Disc Brakes are used

mostly on the front wheel

these days. They come in

two general types.

Hydraulic and Mechanical

Disc Brake.

Here is the drill. Let the air out by removing the valve stem with a valve stem tool. Support the wheel. I use a 30 gallon steel oil drum with the top cut out. (It doubles as a trash can!) Break the bead loose on both sides. This can be easy (hand pressure alone) or hard (get the bead breaker out, a big vice will work too). With two the tire irons lever the bead over the rim, and work your way around the rim of the wheel. Most times, I also use a third, little tire iron I have to help out. It has cut outs that fit onto the spokes. Some lube or soapy water will help too. Then pull the tube, if it has one, out. Then lever the other bead off the wheel rim and it is off. Sounds so easy, don’t it... and it can be. Just remember to push the bead opposite the bead you are working on, down into the center of the wheel rim. This allows the bead you are working on to easily slip over the wheel rim. To get the new tire on ... reverse the process! Remember, some tires have a directional arrow. Make sure the arrow, if there is one, is pointed in the direction of the forward rotation of the wheel. Got that? The way it normally spins. Don't install it

backwards.

Now comes the fun part. After putting the tube in and aligning

the balance mark (light spot) on the tire with the valve stem

hole, install the valve stem nut and the valve stem. Add just a

little air to the tube. That is so the tube has a little shape to it

and is harder to pinch with the tire tools. Lube and push the bead

on one side down into the center of the wheel rim and use one

tire iron to keep it from coming out. On the side of the wheel, use

the Breezer tire tool, and start levering the tire bead over the wheel rim in very

small "bites". Maybe two inches at a time. Each time you move the Breezer, work

the bead opposite the Breezer, deeper into the center of the rim.

NEVER PATCH A MOTORCYCLE TUBE

REPLACE IT.

YOU ONLY HAVE TWO WHEELS

AND ONE LIFE!

Other parts of an BIKE:

Meter: Meter is use for measure the Speed,

RPM, Fuel, Average, Direction of Indicator,

Neutral position of Gear etc.

It has two type :

1. Analogic Meter : It show the all functions

which we discuss above. But it gives less accuracy.

It is most commonly used in cheaply bike.

2.Digital Meter: It is modern type of meter. It also

shows all functions & also gives accurate value. It

is costly so it is used in costly bike.

Front Tyre : Mostly it find in small size than rear tyre. On this tyre steering connect & move in left or right side. Rear Tyre: It find in big size than front tyre. The Transmission is given to this tyre with the help of chain system.

Pressure in Tyres:

Products of H.M.s.i.

1. Activa:-The Honda

Activa is the first scooter

model released by HMSI

for the Indian market. It

was marketed as a family

vehicle. Honda Activa is

recommended for its

more practical and

conservative styling, ease

of use, better ride quality

and the excellent 102 cc

engine. The scooter is also

known as a family two-

wheeler for its higher

load carrying capacity. The vehicle has the option of kick- and self-starts. The chassis

is of high rigidity under bone type and the body panels are molded steel sheet.

Specification:-

ENGINE:-

Engine 4- Stroke, Single Cylinder, air Cooled

Displacement 110cc (new)

Bore and Stroke 50 x 52

Compression Ratio 9:1

Max. power 7.1 PS (5.22 KW) @ 7000rpm

Max. Torque 0.8 Kgm @ 5500rpm

Transmission Variomatic

Chassis:-

Electrical :-

2. AVIAToR:-

The Honda Aviator sports the proven power mill of the Activa in an attractive

light weight body. The larger front wheel and improved suspension make for a

smoother ride. Its lightweight 12-inch-alloy wheels are a first for the scooter industry

in India and are standard on the Disc brake model.Large Multi-reflector Halogen

Headlamp, clear lens indicator and attractive instrument panel add to the distinctive

look of the

scooter.Honda

Patented puncture

resistant tuff up tube

minimizes the

incidents of sudden

punctures by 70%.

The Aviator

boasts of a high

Clutch Dry Automatic Centrifugal

Ignition CDI

Fuel Supply Carburetor Keihin

Chassis Type High rigidity Underbone Type

Suspension (Front) Bottom link with Spring loaded hydraulic damper (80mm Travel)

Suspension (Rear) Unit Swing with Spring loaded hydraulic damper (75mm travel)

Brakes Front - 130mm Drum / Rear - 130 mm Drum

Tyres Front - 3.50 X 10 / Rear - 3.50 X 10

Battery 12v 5Ah

Head/Tail/Stop Lamp 35W/5W/21W

quality telescopic front suspension & rear unit swing suspension setup that achieves

smoother handling, lower vibration and more stable high-speed control than any

scooter in its class. The New Aviators body

design is a combination of Metal and high impact resistant ABS parts so as to reduce

the overall weight of the vehicles for better mileage

Specification:- ENGINE:-

Chassis:-

Electrical :-

Engine 4- Stroke, Single Cylinder, air Cooled, OHC

Displacement 102cc

Ignition CDI

Suspension (Front) Telescopic

Suspension (Rear) Unit Swing with Spring loaded hydraulic damper

Brakes Front –190mm Drum Rear - 130 mm Drum

Tyres Front –90 X 12 / Rear - 3.50 X 10

Battery 12v 5Ah

3. DIO:-

The Honda Dio packages the

proven mechanicals from the

Activa into an attractive fibre body.

European looks, wedge shaped

aerodynamic design and excellent

fit and finish levels make this easily

the most attractive scooter in its

class. With enough space for a full

face helmet or other odds and ends

along with a large flat floor board

this scooter has great load

carrying capacity. spacious

contoured seat coupled with the

high ground clearance make for

a comfortable ride.

The Honda Dio is also

exports in European Countries

named as LEAD and in Gulf

countries named as BEAT.

Specification:-ENGINE:-

Displacement 102cc

Ignition CDI

Chassis:-

Electrical :-

4. Cb SHINe:-

The HondaShine has produced by Honda in India. It is a 4 stroke 12.6 cc bike. The

Shine is one of the most perfect bikes on Indian road condition and delivers superb

comfort and great performance. The Honda Shine is an excellent motorbike. Roller

rocker arm, aerodynamic body, Tumble Flow Combustion Chamberto provide

Suspension (Front) Bottom link with Spring loaded hydraulic damper

Suspension (Rear) Unit Swing with Spring loaded hydraulic damper

Brakes Front - 130mm Drum Rear - 130 mm Drum

Tyres Front - 3.50 X 10 / Rear - 3.50 X 10

Battery 12v 5Ah

adequate power without sacrificing on fuel economy, Multi Mapping CDI etc. is

some of the top features of Honda Shine.Riding position is designed to provide

maximum comfort

Specification:-

ENGINE:-

Chassis:-

Electrical :-

Displacement 124.7cc

Bore and Stroke 52.4 x 57.86

Compression Ratio 9.2:1

Max. Torque 10.9 Nm @ 5500rpm

Transmission 4 Speed, Constant Mesh, All Up

Clutch Multiplate Wet

Ignition Digital CDI

Fuel Supply Carburetor CV Type

Chassis Type Advanced Diamond Frame

Suspension (Front) Telescopic Fork

Suspension (Rear) 3 Step Spring Loaded Hydraulic Shock Absorber

Brakes Front –240mm/130 mm Disc/Drum Rear - 130 mm Drum

Tyres Front –2.75X 18 / Rear –2.75X 18

Battery 12v 7Ah

5. Stunner CBF :-

Definitely the

sportiest 125 in the

market. This bike is

bound to make some

big bike owners feel

envious. A new

advanced and high

performance 11 bhp

Honda engine with 5

speed transmission

ensures an absolutely

sensational ride. It

gives an excellent

power at all speed

ranges and provides

superior initial

acceleration & overtaking pick up. First Time in its category, Tubeless tyres in front as well

rear. This enhances performance, better cornering & chances of sudden deflation of tyres

on punctures are reduced. 100/90 Wider tubeless tyre in rear adds to the appeal. The 17

inch Black alloy wheels add on to the sports character of the bike. Diamond Frame with

Rectangular Box type Swing Arm provides good stability in harsh and daily use conditions.

Efficient Hydraulic 240mm front disc brake provides efficient braking performance in all

weather conditions and ensures stability at high speeds.

Specification:-

ENGINE:-

Max. power 11.11 PS @ 8000rpm

Chassis:-

Electrical :-

6. cb unicorn :-

The smoothest 150cc in

the market, the Honda

Unicorn Sports is now

redesigned to make heads

turn with its attractive,

aggressive look. The

Unicorns power plant uses

technologies such as roller

rocker arms, two way air

jacket, tumble flow

combustion, multimapping

CDI and an offset crank to

provide performance

through the rev range.

Max. Torque 11Nm @ 6500rpm

Transmission 5 Speed, Constant Mesh, 1 Down - 4 Up

Ignition Digital CDI (multi mapping)

Chassis Type Diamond Frame

Suspension (Front) Telescopic Hydraulic Fork

Suspension (Rear) Rectangular swing arm with 3 step spring loaded hydraulic dampers

Tyres Front - 100/80 X 17 Tubeless Rear - 100/90 X 17 Tubeless

Battery 12v 7Ah

Updated graphics, redesigned instrument console, alloy wheels, broader rear tyre and

a new aggressive fairing adds a muscular look to this proven performer. The first bike

in India to offer Mono Suspension which offers better traction and handling.

Specification:-

ENGINE:-

Chassis:-

Electrical :-

Max. power 13.48 PS @ 8000rpm

Max. Torque 12.8Nm @ 6500rpm

Ignition Digital CDI

Chassis Type Diamond Frame

Suspension (Front) Telescopic

Suspension (Rear) Monoshock

Tyres Front - 100/90 X 18 Rear –2.75 X 18

Battery 12v 7Ah

Head/Tail/Stop Lamp 35W(Halogen)/5W/21W

7. twister cb 110 :-

Introducing the

110cc CB Twister.

Great mileage like

any 110cc, highly

affordable like any

110cc, incredibly

stylish unlike any.

110cc bikes will

never be the same

again..First Time in

its category,

Tubeless tyres in

front as well rear.

This enhances

performance, better

cornering & chances

of sudden deflation

of tyres on punctures are reduced. 100/90 Wider tubeless tyre in rear adds to the

appeal. The 17 inch Black alloy wheels adds on to the sports character of the

bike.Diamond Frame with Rectangular Box type Swing Arm provides good stability in

harsh and daily use conditions.

Specification:-

ENGINE:-

Displacement 109cc

Max. power 9 bhp @ 8000rpm

Max. Torque 9 Nm @ 6000rpm

Chassis:-

Electrical :-

8. cb unicorn

dazzler :-Unicorn CB Dazzler has

tried and tested

Unicorn’s 149.1cc four

stroke engine with a

hotter cam profile to

up the power quotient

to 14.2 bhp. Dazzler

has 17 inch alloy

wheels and this

crucially alters the

gearing. It has five

speed transmission,

digital instrumentation, and rear disc brake. The Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler will give a

mileage of 60 kmpl. It has 150cc air-cooled single cylinder powerplant. The Honda CB

Chassis Type Diamond Frame, twin pipe

Suspension (Rear) Spring loaded Hydraulic shock absorber with rectangular box type swing arm

Brakes Front –240mmDisc Rear - 110 mm Drum

Battery 12v 3Ah Maintenance free

Head/Tail/Stop Lamp 35W/5W/21W Halogen

Unicorn Dazzler is available in four colors armour gold metallic, pearl Siena red, pearl

night star black, sword silver metallic.

Specification:-

ENGINE:-

Chassis:-

Electrical :-

Max. power 14 bhp @ 8500rpm

Max. Torque 1.3 kg @ 6500rpm

Chassis Type Advanced Design Diamond Frame

Suspension (Rear) Mono Suspension 3 step adjust

Brakes Front –240mm Disc Rear - 220 mm Disc

Battery 12v 4Ah Maintenance free

Head/Tail/Stop Lamp 35W/5W/21W Halogen

i. certificate 1 ii. iii. iv.docshare04.docshare.tips/files/19920/199203953.pdf · i. certificate 1...

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