hair coloring

HAIR COLORING

LEARNING OBJECTIVES1. List the reasons people color their hair.2. Explain how the hair’s porosity affects haircolor.3. Understand the types of melanin found in hair.4. Define and identify levels and their role in formulating haircolor.5. Identify primary, secondary, and tertiary colors.6. Know what role tone and intensity play in haircolor.7. List and describe the categories of haircolor.8. Explain the role of hydrogen peroxide in a haircolor formula.9. Explain the action of hair lighteners.10. List the four key questions to ask when formulating a haircolor

LEARNING OBJECTIVES11. Understand why a patch test is useful in haircoloring.12. Define what a preliminary strand test is and why it is used.13. List and describe the procedure for a virgin single-process color service.14. Understand the two processes involved in double-proces haircoloring.15. Describe the various forms of hair lightener.16. Understand the purpose and use of toners.17. Name and describe the three most commonly used methods for highlightening.18. Know how to properly cover gray hair.19. Know the rules of color correction.20. Know the safety precautions to follow during the haircolor process.

HAIRCOLOR SERVICES

HAIRCOLOR SERVICES Did you know that Qualified hair colorists

make more money and are in more demand than any other specialists in the field of cosmetology? It’s also been determined that Eight out of ten professionals claim that they are least comfortable with haircoloring of all the services they provide. Hopefully, as we study the unit on hair color, we will be able to overcome the fears of haircoloring and be able to face these services with Enthusiasm and Excitement over the money to be earned.

HAIRCOLOR SERVICES Haircolor Services

Why people color their hair: To Cover or Blend grey hair. To enhance Natural Pigment. To create a Fashion or statement of Self Expression. To correct Unwanted Tones. To accentuate a Haircut .

HAIR FACTS

HAIR FACTS Hair Facts:

Hair Structure The Cuticle is the

outermost layer of hair, it protects the interior Cortex and contributes to 20 percent of overall strength of hair.

The Cortex is the middle layer that gives hair strength and Elasticity; it contributes about 80 percent to the overall strength of hair.

It contains Natural Pigments called

Melanin.

HAIR FACTS

Melanin granules are scattered between cortex cells like chips in a chocolate chip cookie.

HAIR FACTS

The Medulla is the innermost layer; it is sometimes Absent from hair and plays a very Little role in Haircoloring.

HAIR FACTS Hair Texture

This is determined by the individual hair strand Diameter.

Also referred to as Diameter.

Defined as Fine , Medium , And Coarse.

Artificial haircolor responds Differently to each of these textures of hair.

HAIR FACTS Hair Density

The number of hairs Per Square Inch on the head.

Sometimes referred to this as how Thick hair is.

Density will affect haircolor Application to ensure proper and Complete coverage.

HAIR FACTS Hair Porosity

This is the ability of the hair to Absorb and Retain Moisture.

Porous hair accepts haircolor Faster . Porosity can also affect the Intensity of

the color deposit.

HAIR FACTSWhen working with Resistant Hair

porosity is Low and The cuticle is Closed. Hair is resistant and requires a Longer

processing time.With hair that has Average porosity the

cuticle is Slightly raised and processes in an average amount of time.

When the cuticle is Lifted, hair is Overlyporous or has high porosity.

Overly porous hair takes color Unevenly and color tends to Process more quickly as well.

HAIR FACTS To Perform a Porosity Test:

Take a strand of several hairs from four different areas of the head: the front hairline, the temple, the crown, and the nape. Hold the strands securely with one hand and slide the thumb and forefinger of the other hand from the ends to the scalp.

NATURAL HAIRCOLOR

NATURAL HAIRCOLOR Melanin in the Cortex

Eumelanin is the melanin that gives Brown and Black color to hair.

Pheomelanin gives blonde and red color to hair.

Mixed melanin is a mixture of both Eumelanin and Pheomelanin.

NATURAL HAIR COLORContributing Pigment

Is also known as Undertones . It is the varying degrees of Warmth exposed during a color process.

The foundation of haircoloring is based on Changing this pigment with haircolor to create new pigment.

THE LEVEL SYSTEM

THE LEVEL SYSTEM The Level System

A level is the unit of measurement used to identify the Lightness or Depth of a color.

Colorists use the level system to Identify the lightness or darkness of a hair color.

Levels are arranged on a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the Darkest and 10 being the Lightest.

THE LEVEL SYSTEM To identify natural level:

1. Take ½-inch (1.25 cm) square section in the crown area and hold up from the scalp, allowinglight to pass through.

2. Use swatches and find a against the scalp. 3. Move the swatch from the scalp area along the

hair strand. 4. Determine the natural hair color level.

COLOR THEORY

COLOR THEORY Primary Colors

These are pure colors that cannot be achieved from Mixing any other colors together.

They are Red , Blue, and Yellow.

All other colors on the spectrum are Achieved by mixing together these three colors.

When All Three Primary colors are present in equal proportions the resulting color is Black.

COLOR THEORY Secondary Colors

These are achieved by mixing together Equal Proportions of any two primaries.

COLOR THEORY

Tertiary ColorsThese are achieved by mixing together in

equal proportions of a primary color and it’s neighboring Secondary Color.

COLOR THEORY The Law of Color

On the Color Wheel same combination renders the same Result.

Equal parts of red and blue always make Violet .

Equal parts of Blue and Yellow always make green.

Equal parts of yellow and red always make Orange.

COLOR THEORY Complimentary Colors

Complimentary colors are positioned Opposite each other on the color wheel.

When mixed together in Equal proportions the will Neutralize each other to a neutral brown.

The complimentary colors are: Blue and Orange Yellow and Violet Red and Green

COLOR THEORY Tonality

Tonality refers to the Warmth or Coolness of a color.

COLOR THEORYWarm Tones

Warm colors are any colors that contain Red or Yellow .

Warm tones make haircolor appear to be Lighter and Brighter to the eye.

These colors POP or stand out.

COLOR THEORYCool Tones

Cool colors are any colors that contain Blue .

Cool tones make haircolor appear to be Darker and recede from the surface.

These colors Blend into the Background.

COLOR THEORYNeutral Tones

Neutral tones contain Equal Parts of all of the Primary Colors.

HAIRCOLOR TYPES

HAIRCOLOR TYPES TEMPORARY COLOR

Temporary haircolor produces a Physical Change in the hair and does not alter it chemically.

It uses Direct dye molecules to coat the hair shaft only.

Temporary haircolor lasts for One Shampoo.Different varieties include:

Rinses Spray on Color Hair Mascara Color Enhancing Shamoos

HAIRCOLOR TYPES SEMIPERMANENT HAIRCOLOR

Semipermanent haircolor uses Direct_ dye molecules that are diffused from the hair during shampooing

Formulated to last for Four to Six shampoos.This type of haircolor used Smaller Dye

Molecules that stick to the cuticle layer of the hair.

Direct dyes only have the ability to make hair Darker and cannot Lighter the Hair.

This type of haircolor will last for Four to six shampoos.

SEMI PERMANENT HAIRCOLOR

HAIRCOLOR TYPES DEMIPERMANENT HAIRCOLOR

Demipermanent haircolor is for Deposit only and cannot lighten the hair.

This type of haircolor lasts longer than semipermanent or temporary colors and is Gentler on the hair.

Demipermanent haircolor can be used for: Correcting Unwanted Tones Refreshing Washed out Ends Enhancing Natural Color Blending Grey Hair

This type of hair color uses a mixture of both Direct dyes and Oxidative dyes.

HAIRCOLOR TYPES PERMANENT HAIRCOLOR

Permanent haircolor can Lift and Deposit color at the same time and in one process on Virgin hair

This type of color uses Oxidative dyes.Oxidative dyes start out Small to slip

under the cuticle layer and then become Larger during a process called Oxidation.

Once oxidized, the color molecules are too large to Escape the Cuticle Layer.

HAIRCOLOR TYPESThis type of haircolor is considered best for

Covering Grey Hair.Permanent haircolor contains Ammonia

which is used to swell the cuticle layer and allow color molecules to pass through.

This type of color is mixed with Hydrogen Peroxide or H2O2 which gives it it’s Ability To Lift.

Hydrogen peroxide is available is varying strengths called Volume.

The level of volume controls the level of Lift in formulation.

HAIRCOLOR TYPES10 volume will give you One level of lift

(on virgin hair).20 volume will give you Two levels of lift

(on virgin hair).30 volume will give you Three levels of lift

(on virgin hair).40 volume will give you Four level of lift

(on virgin hair).

LEARNING OBJECTIVES1. List the reasons people color their hair.2. Explain how the hair’s porosity affects haircolor.3. Understand the types of melanin found in hair.4. Define and identify levels and their role in formulating haircolor.5. Identify primary, secondary, and tertiary colors.6. Know what role tone and intensity play in haircolor.7. List and describe the categories of haircolor.8. Explain the role of hydrogen peroxide in a haircolor formula.9. Explain the action of hair lighteners.10. List the four key questions to ask when formulating a haircolor

LEARNING OBJECTIVES11. Understand why a patch test is useful in haircoloring.12. Define what a preliminary strand test is and why it is used.13. List and describe the procedure for a virgin single-process color service.14. Understand the two processes involved in double-proces haircoloring.15. Describe the various forms of hair lightener.16. Understand the purpose and use of toners.17. Name and describe the three most commonly used methods for highlightening.18. Know how to properly cover gray hair.19. Know the rules of color correction.20. Know the safety precautions to follow during the haircolor process.

LIGHTENERS

LIGHTENERS Lighteners

Lighteners have a very high Alkalinity and if used incorrectly can damage the hair shaft.

These chemical compounds lighten hair by dispersing, Melanin, and decolorizing the Natural hair pigment, as well as Artificial pigment.

Hydrogen peroxide serves as the Catalyst .

LIGHTENERS Lighteners are used to:

 Lift Natural PigmentLift Artificial PigmentSpecial Effects HaircoloringColor Correction

LIGHTENERS There are 10 stages of lightening the

hair can go through: 1. Blue 2. Blue Violet 3. Violet 4. Violet Red 5. Red 6. Red Orange 7. Orange 8. Yellow Orange 9. Yellow 10. Pale Yellow

LIGHTENERS During the 10 stages of lightening, the hair’s

Underlying pigment or _Undertone is exposed.

Underlying pigment is found in All levels of hair.

Undertones are Unrefined warm tones that usually look Harsh .

Darker levels of hair will go through More stages of lightening whereas lighter levels of hair will go through Less .

LIGHTENERS Types of lightener.

There are 3 types of lightener: Oil Cream Powder

Oil and Cream are both considered to be on-the-scalp lighteners.

Some Powdered can be used on the scalp, however powdered lighteners are considered to be a Off-the-scalp lightener

LIGHTENERS Toners

Often times when using lighteners to lift hair, the contributing pigment exposed in the process can look Unrefined or Harsh.

To counter this, we use Toners.Toners are deposit only colors that are

formulated by the stylist to Neutralize the unwanted warm tones.

Toners are the second step in a Double Process color.

LIGHTENERS Time Factors when using lighteners

Different factors in the hair or it’s environment can affect the time it takes the hair to Process _. Darker natural level- the more Melanin in the hair,

the longer it will take to lighten. Porosity- porous hair can process or lighten much

Faster than resistant hair. Desired tone- lifting past the Ten stages of hair to

achieve pale blonde can also take longer. Strength of product- stronger formulas that have

been mixed with higher Volume Developer will lighten hair faster.

Heat- Heat makes color and lightener process Faster by swelling the cuticle layer.

LIGHTENERS Preliminary test strand

Because the different stages of lightening can Vary in timing we use a test strand to check the Development.

HAIRCOLOR FORMULATION

HAIRCOLOR FORMULATION Four basic questions

Along with a thorough knowledge of your product line, these four questing will guide in creating any end result. What is the Natural or Starting Level? What is the Desired ? What is the Undertone at the desired level What is the percentage of Grey?

HAIRCOLOR FORMULATION Formulation Project must include

Hair Analysis What product line would you choose, And why. Any pre-treatments Formula and Devolper Application method

ADVANCED HAIRCOLOR

ADVANCED HAIRCOLOR Double process blonding

Because our highest level of developer is 40 volume, with permanent hair color we are only able to achieve Up to 4 levels of lightening.

Another drawback to lightening hair with permanent color is that it can only be done on Virgin hair because color Doesn’t Lift color.

In this scenario we need to lighten the hair using Lightener or Decolorize the hair in our first step and Tone color afterward to create the desired look.

ADVANCED HAIRCOLOR Fillers

When deepening hair color more than Two Levels darker than our starting level, we run the risk of our result lacking Vibrancy and fading too quickly

Fillers “Fill in ” the missing the pigment that was lost during the lightening process.

There are two types of fillers: Conditioner Color

ADVANCED HAIRCOLOR Conditioner filler

A conditioner filler will Equalize the hair’s porosity prior to a color service.

Wear and tear from day to day styling and sun exposure can create Pot Holes on the surface of the hairstrand.

Because color can take differently depending on the Porosity of the hair, going without a conditioner fill on damaged or “pot holed” hair will result in Uneven results.

ADVANCED HAIRCOLOR Color filler

A color fill is needed to replace the missing Undertones on light hair to ensure Vibrancy in your end result.

For instance, at level 5 brown the contributing pigment that lies underneath the hair is Red, if my client is a level 8 blonde, her hair currently has no red in it. Therefore if I apply level 5 brown to her hair without filling the red back in, her brown will be too Hollow and lack Richness.

Color fillers should be formulated with the End Result in mind.

The depth or Level of a color filler formula should be One Level lighter than the desired result.

THE CLIENT CONSULTATION

THE CLIENT CONSULTATION Always greet your guest By name. Never speak to you guest Through the

Mirror, sit next to them at Eye Level. Ask Open ended questions to find out

exactly what your client expects from the service and what she/he would like to Achieve .

Look at Pictures with your client to determine EXACTLY what she/he wants.

THE CLIENT CONSULTATION Ask about Past hair color services and what

she did or didn’t like. Evaluate the hair’s Density, Porosity,

Texture and Elasticity to ensure the end result your guest desires is possible.

Recommend Products needed to preserve the Life of the Color .

Discuss the Maintenance involved with the color service your guest chooses.

THE CLIENT CONSULTATION Utilize Reflective Listening to summarize

your game plan and assure that you and the client are on the same page.

Inform your guest of all of the Online Resources available to her through Redken’s website.

What are some ideas YOU have to make the Client Consultation even more effective?

SPECIAL EFFECTS HAIRCOLOR

SPECIAL EFFECTS HAIRCOLOR Foil Highlighting

Highlighting Draws the Eye to a particular area or makes it “pop out,” sort of like highlighting in a textbook.

In foil highlighting, strands of hair are Isolated and lightened.

This service can create Movement , contrast, and Dimension in the hair.

SPECIAL EFFECTS HAIRCOLORCan also be used to Emphasize certain

features depending on where the foil is placed.

Foiling can also be used place _Dark _ pieces in the hair, this technique is called Low Lighting.

We will be learning how to place Horizontal, Vertical, and Diagonal foils in the hair.

SPECIAL EFFECTS HAIRCOLOR Horizontal

Creates Fullness Falls in overlapping Layers of color. Has a hard Line Of Demarcation. Creates a more Solid effect

SPECIAL EFFECTS HAIRCOLOR Vertical

Creates LengthFalls in Lines or

RibbonsHas a Softer line of

demarcation.Creates a more

Dimensional effect.

SPECIAL EFFECTS HAIRCOLOR Diagonal

Creates SoftnessFalls More NaturallyHas a Soft line of demarcation.Creates a more Blended effect.

SPECIAL EFFECTS HAIRCOLOR Balayage

Balayage is a freeform technique that involves Painting some strands of hair to be lighter than others.

This technique must be done on dry, Styled_ hair to ensure placement is correct.

Balayage is great as an Add On Service to introduce highlighting to your guests.

FORMULATING GREY HAIR

FORMULATING GREY HAIR Grey hair

The technical term for grey hair is Canities.

If the correct formula is not used, often time the grey hair does not Cover.

Grey hair is lacking Depth_ and Warmth so therefore in order to cover it with artificial haircolor your need to replace Depth and Warmth.

FORMULATING GREY HAIRBecause its lacking in depth, grey hair can

sometimes take Lighter than pigmented hair when using the same formula.

If the correct amount of Warmth is not in your formulation the end result with will look Drab or not cover at all.

As a general rule, The Percentage of grey that the client has is the percentage of her formula that needs to contain Warmth in order to successfully cover the grey.

When using permanent haircolor, the most commonly used volume of developer is 20 Volume.

Congratulations!