floor walker training
Post on 29-Feb-2016
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Floor Walker Role & Responsibilities
1. ChecksClimbing Wall Environment:
• The ropes are through both of the Krabs at the top and they are ‘daisy chained’ to ensure that they are off the floor.
• The mat is pushed up against the wall• The floor is clear of items/litter• The ‘conditions of use’ sign is up• If you are the first to do it that day, please sign the ‘Wall Check
Sheet’ to say that you have completed a ‘daily wall check’
Climbing Wall Personal Equipment: • All items are there (currently there are 9 harnesses, 9 helmets, 4
screw gate krabs, and 4 belay devices)• Check to ensure there are no apparent abnormalities • All straps extended to their maximum and all buckles fastened• Krabs should be attached to the belay devices• Check the ‘near miss log’ and ensure nothing new has occurred
that requires further attention
Weekly Rope Check:• All ropes need to be pulled and checked carefully for any
abnormalities• They then need to be replaced by either leading the route,
climbing an adjacent route or using a tether line. • Following this check please sign the ‘wall checks sheet’
2. Supervising Casual Use SessionsPre checks of the wall (environment & equipment) are undertaken before people start to enter the climbing wall areaEnsure that the maximum capacity of the wall is not exceededEnsure that people’s use of the wall is consistent with their level of sign offEnsure that the ‘Conditions of Use’ are adhered toSeek to carefully interject if there is concern for the safety of any one involved in the climbing process be it the climber, belayer, or onlookers
3. Monitoring & DisseminationAs a member of the core staff involved with the wall we ask that you actively seek to share information/observations regarding the wall.
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4. Group Leader InductionsThis will include:
• Show them the wall and facilities (e.g. changing rooms/toilets)• In the wall area provide a verbal outline of the ‘conditions of
use’. In particular:o Groups can stash their kit under the benches therefore
leaving the wall area ‘clutter free’o Identify the height limit for bouldering and traversing-
explain this is a maximum and depending on their group they may choose to adopt a lower height limit
o No harnesses to be worn when bouldering/traversingo Explain that there is a gap behind the bouldering wall so
groups must not attempt to climb beyond the top of the bouldering wall
o They need to keep an eye on the bouldering mat and ensure that it remains pushed up against the wall
o We have a ‘tying in’ policy i.e. all climbers need to be tied in rather than clipped in.
o The wall ropes are only to be used for top roping. If they are removed for any reason then they need to be replaced through both karabiners at the top at the end of the session.
o The far left hand routes are only to be used for leading purposes
o All under 18s are required to wear a helmeto We operate a 1:9 ratio (one instructor to 9 group memberso When they are instructing a group they need to stay on
the floor i.e. they cannot climb when they are responsible for a group
o They need to stay within the remit of their qualifications • Ensure they understand what to do in an emergency• Take a copy of the instructor(s) climbing qualification, first aid
and a copy of the insurance certificate the instructor will be working under. These copies are then placed in the file in the pockets entitled ‘Instructor Documents’. The relevant information then needs to be written on the front of the pocket.
• Explanation of what to do upon arrival and departure (collecting key, submitting register, documents)
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Seeking Good Practice
General GuidelinesGood Practice
Keep the environment ‘clutter free’ Ensure the bouldering mat is pushed up against the wall Avoid putting fingers through the bold hangers Any loose holds should be identified to the floor walkers
Bouldering/ TraversingGood Practice:
Remove harnesses Remain within height limit Climb or lower down
Common Issues Jumping off the wall Climbers being unaware of other climbers
HarnessesGood Practice
Positioned snugly on the waist All clothing within the harness Harness appropriate for the wearer All buckles securely fastened and clear to see Bum strap attached
Common Issues Harness positioned too low (typically on the hips) Leg loops twisted Belay loops skewed Centralisation buckles being used ineffectively i.e. one
tightened excessively Either one or more buckles unfastened Harness strap wrapped around masking buckles
and/or creating an additional loop that may prompt confusion
HelmetsGood Practice
Snug fitting to prevent significant movement Chin strap adjusted to sit in line within the jaw and ear Sat just above the eye brows
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Chin Strap fastened with the excess strap tucked away to prevent entanglement
Common Issues Too loose resulting in the helmet moving whilst the climber is moving The chin strap adjustment system incorrectly adjusted resulting in the
straps not sitting in line with the jaw and ear Chin Strap undone
Tying InGood Practice
Rope loop matching the harness belay loop Fig of 8, neat and tightened Two loops in the stopper Stopper butted up against the Fig of 8 with the tail being between
5-10cm max
Common Issues The rope too long The tail too long Too many loops in the stopper Reweaving the tail No Stopper Knot
BelayingGood Practice
Attentive Appropriate Body Position Belay device threaded appropriately Krab securely fastened Method by which the ‘dead rope’ is always securely held Both hands on the ‘dead rope’ for lowering Lowering only after discussion with the climber and
maintaining a steady rate of descent Two hands on the ‘dead rope’ during lowering and using a
‘passing motion’ in which the rope is ‘held and moved’ rather than allowing the rope to slide through the belayer’s hands
Common Issues Belayer standing in an inappropriate position Hand too close to the belay device Waiting with the rope in the ‘open’ position Belay device threaded inappropriately Belay krab cross loading
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Hands upside down when handling the ropes Hand moving in front of the ‘live rope’ during belaying Shuffling the hands/letting the rope run through the hands when
lowering
LeadingGood Practice
Appropriate rope for leading and for the chosen belay device
Clipping in line with torso area Clipping so that the climber’s rope exits ‘on top’ Clipping all routes
Common Issues Back Clipping Z Clipping Moving/waiting with the rope out and held by the
mouth or hand
Belaying a LeaderGood Practice
Attentive Physically spotting the leader until the first extender is clipped Identifying when extenders are being correctly/incorrectly
clipped Dynamic belaying when/if appropriate
Common Issues Lack of concentration Thumbing a Gri Gri to pay out slack but not maintaining physical
contact with the ‘dead rope’ Paying out slack when the climber is ‘Z clipping’
When & How to Tackle Issues:
Your role is to keep people safe physically, and emotionally. This will require you to process information quickly and effectively and then take appropriate action
1. Establish the Level of Danger:o Will the issue result in immediate harm or is it simply a habit that
could be beneficially ‘tweaked’? o Your response to this question should help to determine the approach
that you take to deal with it.
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2. Determine the Appropriate Approach to Tackling the Issue:
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⇓ Distant non verbal communication i.e. establishing eye contact then indicating towards the issue (a nod and a raised eyebrow can be very effective!)
⇓ Pass the message via someone else (can help ‘save face’ but ensure they will pass the message accurately and sensitively)
⇓ Wait for belayer and the climber to be on the floor and then have a quiet chat
⇓ Put you hand on the ‘dead rope’ whilst you intervene and ask them to stop what they are doing and lower the climber
⇓ Put your hand on the ‘dead rope’ and take physical control of the belay process
Deg
ree
of P
oten
tial U
rgen
cy &
Sev
erity
Qualifications Relevant to the Climbing Wall & What they Mean:Qualification Title Can they teach
Bouldering/Traversing?
Can they teach Top Roping?
Can they teach
Leading?
Can they teach
Abseiling?Alpine Guide
Mountain Instructor Certificate (MIC)
Mountain Instructor Award (MIA
Yes Yes Yes Yes
Single Pitch Supervisors Award (SPSA)
Single Pitch Award (SPA)
Yes Yes No Yes
Climbing Wall Award (CWA)
Yes Yes No No
Climbing Wall Award with Abseiling component
Yes Yes No Yes
Climbing Wall Award with Leading Component
Yes Yes Yes No
Climbing Wall Award with Abseiling & Leading components
Yes Yes Yes Yes
South West Climbing Wall Supervisors Award
Yes Yes No No
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Glossary (i.e. understanding the jargon!)
Back Clipping: This refers to when a leader clips the rope in to an extender the wrong way around i.e. the rope is left in a position in which it could inadvertently open the extender Krab should the leader take a fall.
Belayer: “The person who is safeguarding the rope for the climber” (Peter, 2004)
Belay Device: “Friction device used by the belayer to help control the rope” (Peter, 2004)
Bolt ons: This phrase is often used when referring the climbing wall holds that are bolted on
Bolts: This phrase is often used to refer to the bolt hangers on the wall i.e. the metal rings that extenders/quick draws are clipped into Bouldering: Bouldering is short routes that are climbed without the use of ropes
Extenders: Extenders are the pieces of equipment that are used to attach the rope to the bolt hangers. They are often referred to as ‘quick draws’ or ‘runners’
Dynamic Belaying: A method of belying a leader in which more movement is enabled through the belay system resulting in less force exerted if a fall is experienced.
Full Body Harness: This is a harness that has a chest harness component. It is used by people who need assistance keeping up right. Young children and ‘very top heavy’ people tend to benefit from using full body harnesses
Insitu: This is the phrase used to refer to items that are in position i.e. in situation. For example, there are numerous extenders on the wall that are ‘insitu’.
Karabiners (Krabs): The name of the metal clips with an opening mechanism referred to as a ‘gate’. They serve a number of purposes in a climbing context. Typically they are either snap gates or screwgates.
Leading: Leading is the process of climbing a route without a rope from above safeguarding you. In a leading context the leader climbs with the rope below them clipping extenders as they ascend.
Quick Draws: See ‘Extenders’
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Runners: See ‘extenders’
Top Roping: Climbing the route with a rope from above protecting you
Traversing: Traversing refers to climbing in a horizontal direction i.e. side to side rather than upwards.
Tying In: This is the process in which the climber ties the rope to their harness
Snap Gate Karabiners: These karabiners have no locking mechanism on their gate
Screw Gate Karabiners: These karabiners have a locking mechanism on their gate. They are locked and unlocked by ‘screwing’ the gate.
Z Clipping: An error made by a leader, in which the rope is pulled from beneath the previous extender resulting in a ‘Z’ shape being formed in the rope.
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