financialtimes watches&jewellery … at prices to make you wonder ... uses a “track” system...

6 ★ † FINANCIAL TIMES SATURDAY NOVEMBER 14 2009

Watches & Jewellery | Fabulous Favourites

How deep is yourhorological pocket?

BEST DEALS1 Swatch you.automaticSwatch has put thecat among thepigeons with thisnew range ofinexpensivechronographs thatare powered byhigh-quality,self-winding ETAmovements similarto those found inother mechanical watches costing 10times the price – and frequentlymore. There are five models in theline-up – Right Track, Simply Pureand Sign in the Sky – at £238 andSilver Class and Blunge at £248.www.swatch.co.uk SdB

2 Victorinox Dive Master 500MechaVictorinox might bebest known for itsSwiss Army knives,but the companyhas also been doinga nice line insuperb valuewristwatches since1989. This divewatch offers 500metres waterresistance, a large luminous dial anda uni-directional bezel. £835 SdB

3 Longines WWWLongines is one ofthe most respectedwatch makers inthe world with aheritage that datesback 175 years. In1945, it suppliedtimepieces to the

British Army that were officiallydescribed as “Wrist WatchWaterproof” and now the model hasbeen reincarnated and enlarged forthe 21st century in the form of the“WWW”. £960 SdB

4 Hamilton Khaki ConservationNothing in theHamilton rangecosts more than£1,500, and thisrugged, twotime-zone sportswatch retails at lessthan half that.Designed with thehelp of celebrityenvironmentalcampaigner Harrison Ford, it has a42mm case, 200 metre waterresistance and a dual time zonefunction. £720. SdB

5 Skagen Stainless SteelGold­plated DialSkagen’sDanish-designedwristwatches havefew rivals forsimple, classicelegance.Family-ownedSkagen is fastincreasing sales ofits quartztimepieces,mounted on striped mesh bands insilver or gold. Prices range between£95 and £130. MB

6 Locman TuttotondoLocman’s roundand colourfulTuttotondo rangereflects their Italianorigin.Mother-of-pearl orenamel dials carryArabic numerals ina swirl withinwater-resistant,stainless steel casesand brushed steel bezels, all mountedon coloured straps. Small sizes are£300; the large are £330, from a fresharrival in the UK. MB

7 Rotary AquaspeedRotary has been an importantperformer at thereally-good-value-for-money end of

the watch marketsince 1926. From aSwiss makerfounded in 1898,Rotary’s plain andsimple round,white-dialled quartzpieces start at just£75. The sportyAquaspeed rangesells for between£95 and £199, and even incorporatesa chronograph function. MB

8 Oris Swiss Hunter TeamLimited EditionCommemoratingthe Hawker Hunterjet, this sturdytimepiece, fittedwith an automaticmovement, not onlylooks like it shouldbe worn in thecockpit but is builtto endure a toughride. As a limitededition of just 1,958 pieces, it is rareto find exclusivity and collectabilityat this price. £1,150 MD

9 Hamilton Khaki Field AutoThis Swiss brandwith Americanheritage has beensurprising with itsbold designs, solidengineering andfair prices. TheKhaki Field Auto,with classic stylingjazzed up with ashot of orange onthe dial – is driven by a dependableautomatic movement from sistercompany ETA. £480 MD

10 Tissot Couturier AutomaticChronographAnother SwatchGroup company isproducing attractivewatches at prices tomake you wonderwhy you wouldever buy a quartzwatch again. Thisclassic chronograph,which would lookgood with a suit, has an uncluttereddial with good legibility – a real plusin my books. From £475 MD

WHAT TO BUY FOR THE HOLIDAYS

Watch­collectingspecialists, Simon deBurton, Michael Balfourand Maria Doultonoffer their 10 top tipsin three categories:bargains, high­endand jewellery

Contact numbersSwatch Lisa Shetabi 020

7792 7470 Victorinox Kate

Harris 020 7632 2424

Mondaine Emma Faust 0845299 0200Longines Lucy Barrett 0207053 2470Hamilton Aileen Everingham020 7053 2464Christophe Claret xxxxConcorde Shahrzad Moaven020 8614 7512Harry Winston ­ CaraHauptman 020 7907 8849Panerai ­ Martha Williamson020 7491 9903Chopard ­ Gaelle Moatty 0207409 1250Bell and Ross ­ KarmenWijnberg 020 7331 1436Backes and Strauss ­Rebecca Reid 020 7349 8703Corum ­ Rosie McGhee 0207845 6642

BEST HIGH­END1 Christophe Claret Dual TowIndependent high-end watch inventorChristophe Claret’s new timepieceuses a “track” system instead ofconventional hands. Made in a seriesof 68 pieces, each will be differentfrom the next in several respects –other than the price tag, whichremains extremely large.Approximately £316,000. SdB

2 Concord Tourbillon GravityConcord’s Tourbillon Gravity is oneof the most radical watches to hitthe market for years. It features atourbillon mechanism that ismounted outside of the mainmovement and encircled by a smallseconds indicator in the form of arevolving barrel. Just 25 will bemade. £195,000 SdB

3 Harry Winston Ocean GMTTravellerThis automatic tourbillon has a largeand small dial for home and localtime respectively and a jumping citydisplay. Just 80 of each will be madein rose and white gold with another45 set with diamonds. £112,500(standard version) SdB

4 Officine Panerai RadiomirTourbillon GMTThis delectable watch looksrelatively plain from the front, but asapphire crystal case back revealsthe in-house manufactured tourbillonmovement and a six-day powerreserve indicator. Thechocolate-coloured dial offers asecond time zone indication and is

complemented by a case in 18 caratrose gold. £77,000 SdB

5 Parmigiani Toric ChronographTourbillonThe hugely desirable watch has justbeen launched by Parmigiani with aprice tag of £253,000.

This brings a very beautifulplatinum-cased openworked modelfeaturing hours, minutes, smallseconds, a minute repeatermechanism for hours, quarter hoursand minutes with two differentchime settings, and a diamond-setbezel. MB

6 Rolex Oyster PerpetualDay­Date 11This timepiece arrives 50 years afterthe original ground breakingDay-Date. Its redesign featuresattractive blued Roman hours andhands, and a re-shaped large datewindow at 3 o’clock.The new, larger 41mm cases are in

a choice of four metals: platinum(£31,8000), white gold (£18,000),Everose gold (£18,800), and yellowgold (£17,200). MB

7 Van Cleef & ArpelsHummingbirdsVan Cleef & Arpels is producing onlyeight pieces each of five related LadyArpels Extraordinary Hummingbirdsmodels.Called Berylline, Ruby-Throated,Violet-Crowned, Blue-Throated, andCalliope, the round, white gold casescombine precious stones, cloisonnéenamelling, and three dimensionalenamelling. Fabulous with prices tomatch: €55,000 apiece. MB

8 TAG Heuer Monaco V4First presented at BaselWorld in 2004as a concept watch, the fullyworking V4 is finally here. It hasbeen worth the wait as this is noordinary watch. Look through thedial at the exposed mechanism andthe four spring barrels are mountedon a V-shaped plate like thecylinders of a racing engine. Wheelsare replaced by a transmissionsystem of tiny belts no thicker thana human hair. Limited edition of 150pieces in platinum: £65,000. MD

9 IWC Da Vinci PerpetualCalendar Kurt Klaus editionNamed after the engineer whodeveloped the perpetual calendarmovement at IWC and housed in theimposing Da Vinci case, this is aTitan of a watch. Capable ofdisplaying the date, day, month andyear as well as moon phases, it alsofeatures a chronograph function –and all engineered for ease ofoperation with no adjustmentsneeded to the calendar functionsuntil 2100, when the century slidemust be activated. £22,500 MD

10 Urwerk URCC1Exploring new ways of displayingtime is an area in which Urwerkexcels – previous models told time byrotating cups or micro-roboticcontracting arms.This niche brand combinessophisticated horology withretro-futuristic design and on theCC1, time is read from twohorizontal indicators which meantre-inventing the traditional roundwatch movement. $282,000 MD

BESTJEWELLERY1 Chopard Happy SportMini SquareChopard’sHappy Sportwatcheshave beenaround formore than25 years andare instantlyrecognisableby the diamonds that skidacross the dial like tiny,gleaming ice hockey pucks.

Numerous Happy Sportdesigns have been createdover the years, withone of the latest beingthe small and discreetMini Square that isavailable in both steeland rose gold.£2,990-£13,850 SdB

2 Bell & Ross BR01Airborne 415Surely themostoutrageoustimepieceyou will seethisChristmas,this versionof the Bell& Ross pilot’s watch hasbeen de-militarised bythe addition of a dialthat is decorated witha diamond-set skull.Called the “415” afterthe number of stones,the watch is also availablein a “672” version whichhas black diamondsset into the case.£19,000-£29,000 SdB

3 Backes & StraussPiccadilly Diamond DialBackes & Strauss, theworld’s oldest diamonddealer, has been doingan impressive line in

gem-setwatchessince 2007and has arange-top-ping modelcalled theRoyalBerkeleythat costs £750,000.More affordable – butstill reassuringly pricey –is the new PiccadillyDiamond Dial thatfeatures either 128or 159 diamonds,depending on whetheryou go for Roman orArabic numerals. Roseor white gold casesare available. £29,900. SdB

4 Corum Admiral’s CupCompetition 40Corum’sAdmiral’sCup rangeof yachting-inspiredwatches hasbeen aroundsince the1960s.The signature dodecagonshape (12-sided) is availablein various guises, one ofthe latest being the 40mmversion in white with abezel set with 66 full cutdiamonds weighing 0.94 ofa carat.Despite the delicate looks,

the watch is waterresistant to 100 metres.£5,495 SdB

5 Girard­PerregauxCat’s Eye Annual andZodiac CalendarsWhenstrangersget talkingon holiday,late-nightchat oftengets aroundto birthsigns.Girard-

Perregaux has just thetimepiece for suchoccasions. It is theautomatic Cat’s EyeAnnual and ZodiacCalendars model, whichbrings together terrestial,lunar and stellar times.In pink gold it is £24,500,

a pavé diamond version is£36,900, and in white goldit costs £25,900, all withdiamond bezels. MB

6 Piaget Protocole XXLPiaget’s newProtocoleXXL islarge,squarish,and has apink goldcase setwith 200brilliant-cut diamonds. Itsface will surely demandattention at smart festivedinner tables because of itsgleaming whitemother-of-pearl dial,dramatically set with fourenormous Romannumerals.This ultra-thin,

mechanical £13,900 piecehas an elegant whitealligator leather strap. MB

7 Chanel J12The J12,with itsyachtingreference, isnow wellinto its 10thyear, afterits originallaunch as adiving watch, and isbecoming anothernumbered icon for Chanel.The J12 range is alwaysexpanding, and including aterrific selection of gemsetversions, with pricesstarting at £14,800. MB

8 Van Cleef & ArpelsEleonora

Onyx andcoral makefor astriking lookfor thisjewel of awatch withoriental airsthat makesa statement on the wrist.Being Van Cleef, everydiamond is beautifullypolished and set but whatis more, behind the prettydial is a mechanicalmovement, an exquisitedetail that sums up luxurychez Van Cleef. POA MD

9 Bulgari SerpentiGoldenserpentsfirst writhedup arms atsmartcocktailparties inItaly in the1970s and,since then, snake-themedjewels and watches havebecome a house classic.Particularly attractive inpink gold with contrastingonyx scales, this watchadds a feral edge to thattame little black dress.£24,500 MD

10 De Bethune DBLWS2Unlike theother threewatches Ihavechosen, theDBL did notstart life asa jewellerywatch.It is an iced-up version ofa man’s model.However, so exceptionally

beautiful is the result –just look at that heavenlyorb of a moon set withsapphires and diamonds –that it makes it into myTop-of-the-jewellery-watch-Pops. SFr330,000. MD

Top row:Harry Winston, TAGHeuer, IWC, Rolex.Middle row:Van Cleef & Arpels,Parmigiani, Officine.Bottom row:Urwerk, ChristopheClaret, Concord.