dancing around the ring of fire: tensions with tourism at up helly aa in lerwick, shetland dr...

Dancing Around the Ring of Fire: Tensions with Tourism at Up Helly Aa

in Lerwick, Shetland

Dr Rebecca FinkelQueen Margaret University, Edinburgh

rfinkel@qmu.ac.uk

Outline

Research Methods

Background of Shetland & Up Helly Aa

Ethnographic observations

Ethos of community festival

Identifying tourist tensions

'Tourist gaze' (Urry, 2001)

Burn, burn, burn?

Research Methods

Participant & Direct Observation (2007) In-depth interviews with ex-Jarls & Volunteers Conversations with Lerwick residents Student 'gatekeeper' facilitated access

Geography

Shetland lies across the 60th line of Latitude North with the capital Lerwick almost sitting in the centre of a triangle formed by connecting Aberdeen (Scotland), with Bergen (Norway) and Torshavn (Faroe Islands).

Background of Up Helly Aa

Last Tuesday in January Only men participating in ritual activities First in 1878 – annually in 1889 Torch-lit processions --> Longship on fire -->

Dancing at the halls

Festival linked to Shetland Identity

Defining collective sense of self apart from mainland

More Norwegian than Scottish (Callahan, 1998) Reproduction & celebration of idea of heritage Generational and diasporic Reimagining future of festival and Shetland based

on reconstructed past Every element has significance and meaning

Funding leads to autonomy

Personal & private funding – local biz No council 'tick boxes' Feel can exclude outsiders and 'others' to preserve

'tradition' Tensions with Visit Shetland Tensions with 'official' marketing and media Increase in flights

Reeling around tourists

Town Hall only Limited tickets Liminal spaces for locals only – tourists on

periphery Limited accommodation Limited restaurants Limited retail options

Two-stepping with tourists

Financial benefits Social benefits

Share heritage Reconfirm identity

Sustainability benefits Seasonality benefits Don't participate, so what's the harm?

Re-negotiation under 'tourist gaze'

'Authenticity' issues Denial – uncomfortable Embrace – commercial? Making a 'destination'

Cruise ships Eco / outdoor tourism Food tourism

Resistance to standardisation and instrumental agendas

Questions?