brillat savarin-the physiology of taste mobile

THE PHYSIOLOGY OF

BRILLAT SAVARIN∗

TRANSLATED FROM THE LAST PARISEDITION BY FAYETTE ROBINSON.

CONTENTS.

APHORISMS of the Professor to serve asProlegomena to his work, and Eternal basis

∗PDF created by pdfbooks.co.za2

of the Science,DIALOGUE, between the Author and

his Friend,BIOGRAPHY,PREFACE,MEDITATION I. THE SENSES,Number of the Senses,Action of the Senses,Perfectness of the Senses,

Powers of the Taste,Object of the Action of the Senses,MEDITATION II. TASTE,Definition of Taste,Mechanism of Taste,Sensation of Taste,Flavors,Influence of Smelling on the Taste,Analyses of the Sensation of Taste,

Order of the Impressions of Taste,Enjoyments due to the Taste,Supremacy of Man,Method of the Author,MEDITATION III. GASTRONOMY,Origin of Sciences,Origin of Gastronomy,Definition of Gastronomy,Different objects of Gastronomy,

Utility of Gastronomical Knowledge,Influence of Gastronomy on Business,Gastronomical Academy,MEDITATION IV. APPETITE,Definition of Appetite,Anecdote,Great Appetites,MEDITATION V. FOOD IN GERMS–

Section First,6

Definitions,Analyses,Osmazome,Principle of Aliments,Vegetable Kingdom,Difference between Fat and Lean,Individual Instance,MEDITATION VI. FOOD IN GERMS–

Section Second,7

Specialities,I. Pot-au-feu, Potage, etc.,II. Bouilli,III. Fowls,IV. The Turkey,Dindoniphiles,Financial Influence of the Turkey,Exploit of the Professor,V. Game,

VI. Fish,Anecdote,Muria–Garum,Philosophical Reflection,VII. Truffles,Erratic Virtue of Truffles,Are Truffles Indigestible,VIII. Sugar,Indigenous Sugar,

Uses of Sugur,IX. Origin of Coffee,Different Modes of preparing Coffee,Effects of Coffee,X. Chocolate–its origin,Properties of Chocolate,True Method of preparing Chocolate,MEDITATION VII. THEORY OF FRY-

ING,10

Allocution,I. Chemistry,II. Application,MEDITATION VIII. ON THIRST,Varieties of Thirst,Causes of Thirst,Example,MEDITATION IX. ON DRINKS,Water,

Quick effect of Drinks,Strong Drinks,MEDITATION X. AN EPISODE ON

THE END OF THE WORLD,MEDITATION XI. ON GOURMANDISE,Definitions,Advantages of Gourmandise,Sequel,Power of Gourmandise,

A Lady Gourmand,Anecdote,Are Women Gourmands?The effects of Gourmandise of Sociabil-

ity,Influence of Gourmandise on Conjugal

Happiness,Note of a Patriot Gastronomer,MEDITATION XII. GOURMANDS,

All who wish to be are not Gourmands,Napoleon,Gourmands by Destiny,Gourmands by Profession,Financiers,Physicians,Objurgation,Men of Letters,Devotees,

Chevaliers and Abbes,Longevity of Gourmands,MEDITATION XIII. GASTRONOMI-

CAL TESTS,First Series–Income of 5,000 francs,Second Series–Income of 15,000 francs,Third Series–Income of 30,000 francs, or

more,MEDITATION XIV. ON THE PLEA-

SURES OF THE TABLE,Origin of the Pleasures of the Table,Difference between the Pleasures of Eat-

ing and the Pleasures of the Table,Effects,Accessories,The 18th and 19th Century,Summary,MEDITATION XV. HALTES DE CHASSE,

Ladies,MEDITATION XVI. ON DIGESTION,Ingestion,Duty of the Stomach,Influence of Digestion,MEDITATION XVII. REPOSE,Time of Rest,MEDITATION XVIII. SLEEP,Definition,

MEDITATION XIX. DREAMS,Nature of Dreams,System of Dr. Gall,First Observation,Second Observation,Result,Age,Phenomena of Dreams,First Observation,

Second Observation,Third Observation,Do as you will be done by,MEDITATION XX. INFLUENCE OF

DIET ON REST, SLEEP AND DREAMS,Effects of Diet on Labor,Dreams,Consequence,Result,

MEDITATION XXI. OBESITY,Causes of Obesity,Sequel,Sequel,Anecdote,Inconvenience of Obesity,Examples of Obesity,MEDITATION XXII. PRESERVATIVE

TREATMENT AND CURE OF OBESITY,20

Generalities,Sequel of the Regimen,Dangers of Acids,Antiobesic Belt,Quinquina,MEDITATION XXIII. THINNESS,Definition,Varieties,Effects of Thinness,

Natural Predestination,Fattening Regimen,MEDITATION XXIV. FASTING,Definition,Origin,How people used to Fast,Origin of the removal of Restriction in

Fasting,MEDITATION XXV. EXHAUSTION,

Treatment,Cure by the Professor,MEDITATION XXVI. DEATH,MEDITATION XXVII. PHILOSOPHI-

CAL HISTORY OF THE KITCHEN,Order of Alimentation,Discovery of Fire,Baking,Oriental Entertainments–Grecian,

Roman Festivals,Resurrection of Lucullus,Poetry,Irruption of the Barbarians,MEDITATION XXVIII. RESTAURA-

TEURS,Establishment,PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE–Part Sec-

ond,24

TRANSITION,VARIETIES, I. L’omelette du Cure,Omelette au Thon,Observations,II. A National Victory,III. Mystification of the Professor and

Defeat of a General,IV. The Snare,V. The Turbot,

VI. Pheasants,VII. Gastronomical Industry of the Emi-

gres,VIII. Recollections of the Emigration,The Weaver,The Starving,Sojourn in America,Asparagus,Fondue,

Recipe for Fondue, Copied from the Pa-pers of M. Trollet, Bailli of Mondon in Berne,

Disappointment,Wonderful Effects of a Classical Dinner,Effects and Danger of Strong Drinks,Chevaliers and Abbes,Miscellany–Wine,Strawberries,Judgment,

Raisins,A Day with the Bernardines,Prosperity en route,H. ... DeP ...,Conclusion,BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.The excellent man to whom we are in-

debted for this book has described himself,with so much charm, nature and truth; the

principal events of his life have been recordedin such an agreeable and faithful mannerthat very few words will suffice to finish thestory.

Brillat Savarin (Anthelme) Counsel ofthe Court of Cassation, member of the Le-gion of Honor, member of the Society forthe Encouragement of National Industry, ofthe Antiquarian Society of France, of the

Philoselic Society of Bourg, &c., &c., wasborn, 1st of April, 1755, at Belley, a littleAlpine city, not far from the banks of theRhine, which at this place separates Francefrom Savoy. Like his forefathers, who hadbeen for several generations devoted to thebar, the profession which pleased him, inconsequence of his possession of great elo-quence, he practised with great success.

In, 1789, the unanimous vote of his fel-low citizens deputed him to the Constituentassembly, composed of all that was mostbrilliant in the youth of France at that day.Less attached in practice to the philosophyof Zeno than that of Epicurus, his namedoes not figure very conspicuously, but al-ways appears at epochs, which show thathe acted with the good and moderate.

His legislative functions being determinedby the expiration of the Constituent As-sembly, he was first appointed President ofthe Superior Civil court of the Departmentof Ain, and subsequently a Justice of theCourt of Cassation, newly instituted; a manof talent, perfectly incorruptible and un-hesitating in the discharge of his duty, hewould have been precisely calculated for the

place to which he had been appointed, hadthe warmth of political discussion made prac-ticable the advice either of moderation or ofprudence. In 1793, he was Mayor of Belley,and passed in anxiety there, the season ofthe reign of Terror; whence he was forced tofly to Switzerland for an asylum against therevolutionary movement. Nothing can bet-ter man, without a personal enemy, should

be forced to pass in a foreign land the dayshe purposed to devote to the improvementof his country.

This is the point when the character ofBrillat Savarin assumes its grandest propor-tions; proscribed, a fugitive, and often with-out pecuniary resources, frequently unableto provide for his personal safety, he wasalways able to console his companions in

exile and set them an example of honestindustry. As time rolled on, and his sit-uation became more painful, he sought tofind in the new world a repose which Europedenied him; he came from Europe, and inBoston, New York, Philadelphia, and Hart-ford passed two years teaching the Frenchlanguage, and for a time playing the firstviolin in the orchestra of the Park Theatre.

Like many other emigres, Brillat Savarinever sought to make the pleasant and theuseful coincide. He always preserved verypleasant recollection of this period of hislife, in which he enjoyed, with moderate la-bor, all that is necessary for happiness, lib-erty sweetened by honest toil. He might sayall is well, and to be able to enjoy the breathof my native land would alone increase my

happiness; he fancied that he saw brighterdays with the commencement of Vendemi-aire year 5, corresponding to September, of1796. Appointed by the Directory, as Sec-retary of the General in Chief of the Re-publican armies in Germany, then Commis-ary of the government in the department ofthe Seine and Oise, (this appointment heheld at the epoch of the 18th Brumaire, in

which France fancied she exchanged libertyfor repose,) sustained by the Senate and theCourt, Brillat Savarin passed the remainingtwenty-five years of his life respected by hisinferiors, loved by his equals, and honoredby all. A man of mind, a pleasant guest,with a deep fund of humor, he delighted ev-ery body. His judicial labors did not at allinterfere with the composition of this book,

which he esteemed the great one of his life.To the very facility of its composition,

the ”Physiology of the Taste,” owes its suc-cess; one would form a very erroneous opin-ion of it, were he to estimate it at all aswe do Montaigue’s writings on the Gueule.Savarin was naturally a thoughtful man, thesimplest meal satisfied him, all he requiredwas that it should be prepared artistically;

and he maintained that the art of cookeryconsisted in exciting the taste. He used tosay, ”to excite a stomach of Papier Mache,and enliven vital powers almost ready todepart, a cook needs more talent than hewho has solved the INFINTESIMAL CAL-CULUS.”

The world was much surprised by find-ing in a book by Brillat Savarin, a man it

had always looked upon as simply a verypleasant person, such a vast collection ofgeneral information; after his laborious pro-fession he had always seemed to expend therest of his time with the muses and graces,and none could divine where he obtained somuch information, as almost to recall thestory of some gray-haired sage of Greece.He had however already composed more than

one work unrecognised, if we except the twoopuscula ”Critical and Historical Essay onDuel, with Relation to our Legislation andMorals,” and a work on judicial practice.They were successful, but he was just thenattacked by a violent cold, contracted bybeing present at the annual ceremony, [Footnote:Not only Brillat Savarin, but Robert De St.Vincent, and Attorney General Marchangy,

contracted their death in consequence of thesame ceremonial.] the 21st of January at theChurch of St. Dennis. In spite of every careand attention, on the 2d of February, 1826,he died. For many years gifted with robusthealth and athletic constitution, made themore remarkable by his tall stature, BrillatSavarin had a presentiment of the approachof death; this feeling, however, did not in-

fluence the tenor of his life, for his habitualgaity was maintained unimpaired. Whenthe fatal point was reached, he died tan-quam convivia satur, not without regret,certainly, for he left many kind friends towhom his memory could not but be dear.

APHORISMS OF THE PROFESSOR.TO SERVE AS PROLEGOMENA TO

HIS WORK AND ETERNAL BASIS TO44

THE SCIENCE.I. The universe would be nothing were

it not for life and all that lives must be fed.II. Animals fill themselves; man eats.

The man of mind alone knows how to eat.III. The destiny of nations depends on

the manner in which they are fed.IV. Tell me what kind of food you eat,

and I will tell you what kind of man you45

are.V. The Creator, when he obliges man to

eat, invites him to do so by appetite, andrewards him by pleasure.

VI. Gourmandise is an act of our judg-ment, in obedience to which, we grant apreference to things which are agreeable,over those which nave not that quality.

VII. The pleasure of the table belongs to46

all ages, to all conditions, to all countries,and to all aeras; it mingles with all otherpleasures, and remains at last to console usfor their departure.

VIII. The table is the only place whereone does not suffer, from ennui during thefirst hour.

IX. The discovery of a new dish confersmore happiness on humanity, than the dis-

covery of a new star.X. Those persons who suffer from indi-

gestion, or who become drunk, are utterlyignorant of the true principles of eating anddrinking.

XI. The order of food is from the mostsubstantial to the lightest.

XII. The order of drinking is from themildest to the most foamy and perfumed.

XIII. To say that we should not changeour drinks is a heresy; the tongue becomessaturated, and after the third glass yieldsbut an obtuse sensation.

XIV. A dessert without cheese is like abeautiful woman who has lost an eye.

XV. A cook may be taught, but a manwho can roast, is born with the faculty.

XVI. The most indispensable quality of49

a good cook is promptness. It should alsobe that of the guests.

XVII. To wait too long for a dilatoryguest, shows disrespect to those who arepunctual.

XVIII. He who receives friends and paysno attention to the repast prepared for them,is not fit to have friends.

XIX. The mistress of the house should50

always be certain that the coffee be excel-lent; the master that his liquors be of thefirst quality.

XX. To invite a person to your house isto take charge of his happiness as long ashe be beneath your roof.

DIALOGUE between the author and hisfriend. (after the usual salutations.)

FRIEND. As my wife and myself were51

at breakfast this morning, we came to theconclusion that you should print, as soon aspossible, your Gastronomical Observations.

AUTHOR. What the wife wishes Godwills. In six words that is the charta ofParis. I, though, am not subject to thatlaw, for I am an unmarried man.

FRIEND. Bachelors, though, are as sub-ject to the law as others are, sometimes

much to our injury. Single blessedness here,however, will not save you. My wife saysshe has a right to order, because you beganyour book at her country-house.

AUTHOR. You know, dear Doctor, howI defer to the ladies; more than once youhave found my submission to their orders.You also were one of those who said I wouldmake an excellent husband. I will not, how-

ever, print my book.FRIEND. Why not?AUTHOR. Because being devoted, from

the nature of my profession, to serious stud-ies, I fear that those who only know the titleof my book will think that I devote myselfto trifles.

FRIEND. A panic terror! Thirty-six yearsof constant toil and labor for the public,

have made you a reputation. Besides, mywife and I think every body would read you.

AUTHOR. Indeed!FRIEND. The learned will read your book

to ascertain what you have to tell.AUTHOR. Perhaps.FRIEND. Women will read your book

because they will see—AUTHOR. My dear friend, I am old, I

am attacked by a fit of wisdom. Misereremei.

FRIEND. Gourmands will read you be-cause you do them justice, and assign themtheir suitable rank in society.

AUTHOR. Well, that is true. It is strangethat they have so long been misunderstood;I look on the dear Gourmands with pater-nal affection. They are so kind and their

eyes are so bright.FRIEND. Besides, did you not tell me

such a book was needed in every library.AUTHOR. I did. It is the truth–and I

would die sooner than deny it.FRIEND: Ah! you are convinced! You

will come home with me?AUTHOR. Not so. If there be flowers

in the author’s path, there are also thorns.57

The latter I leave to my heirs.FRIEND. But then you disinherit your

friends, acquaintances and cotemporaries.Dare you do so?

AUTHOR. My heirs! my heirs! I haveheard that shades of the departed are al-ways flattered by the praise of the living;this is a state of beatitude I wish to reservemyself for the other world.

FRIEND. But are you sure that the praiseyou love so, will come to the right address?Are you sure of the exactness of your heirs?

AUTHOR. I have no reason to thinkthey will neglect a duty, in considerationof which I have excused them the neglect ofso many others.

FRIEND. Will they–can they have foryour book the paternal love, the author’s

attention without which every work alwayscomes awkwardly before the public?

AUTHOR. My manuscript will be cor-rected, written out distinctly, and in all re-spects prepared; they will only have to printit.

FRIEND. And the chapter of events?Alas! such circumstances have caused theloss of many precious books,–among which

was that of the famous Lecat, on the stateof the body during sleep, the work of hiswhole life.

AUTHOR. This doubtless was a greatloss; but I anticipate no such regrets for mybook.

FRIEND. Believe me, your friends willhave enough to do-to arrange matters withthe church, with the law, and with the med-

ical faculty, so that if they had the will, theywould not have the time to devote them-selves to the various cares which precede,accompany, and follow the publication of abook,–however small the volume may be.

AUTHOR. But, my friend, what a title!Think of the ridicule!

FRIEND. The word Gastronomy makesevery ear attentive; the subject is a la mode,

and those who laugh are as great votaries ofthe science as any others are. This shouldsatisfy you. Do you remember too, that thegreatest men have sometimes written bookson very trivial subjects,-Montesquieu, forexample. [Footnote: M. de Monjucla, knownas the author of an excellent history of math-ematics, made a Dictionary of GourmandGeography; he showed me portions of it

during my residence at Versailles. It is saidthat M. Berryat-Professor of legal practice,has written a romance in several volumeson the subject.]

AUTHOR. (Quickly.) On my word, thatis true. He wrote the Temple of Gnidus,and it would not be difficult to sustain thatthere is more real utility in meditating onwhat is at once a necessity, a pleasure, and

an occupation every day of our lives, thanin telling what was done and said a thou-sand years ago by two mad people, one ofwhom pursued through the woods of Greecethe other, who had not the least dispositionto escape.

FRIEND. Ah! ha! Now you yield?AUTHOR. Not I. The ass’s ear of the

author only was shown; and this recalls to65

my memory a scene of English comedy, whichamused me very much; it is, I think, in theplay called the Natural Daughter. You shallsee, however, for yourself. [Footnote: Thereader will observe that my friend permitsme to be familiar with him, without takingadvantage of it. The reason is, that the dif-ference between our ages is that of a fatherand a son, and that, though now a man of

great note and importance in every respect,he would be completely overcome with griefif I changed my bearing towards him.] Thesubject relates to the Quakers, that sectwhich uses ”thee” and ”thou” to everybody,which dresses simply, never go to war, neverswear or act with passion, and who neverget angry. The hero of this piece is a youngand handsome Quaker, who appears on the

scene in a brown coat, a broad-brimmedhat, and slick hair! All this, though, doesnot keep him from being in love.

A fool who is his rival, emboldened byhis exterior, ridicules and outrages him sothat the young man gradually becoming ex-cited, and finally made furious, gives his as-sailant a severe thrashing.

Having done this he at once resumes his68

habitual deportment and says, sadly, ”Alas!the flesh is too mighty for the spirit.”

Thus say I, and after a brief hesitationresume my first opinion.

FRIEND. That is impossible. You haveshown your ear; you are a prize, and I willtake you to my bookseller. I will tell youwho has gotten wind of your secret.

AUTHOR. Do not; for I would speak of69

yourself, and who knows what I would say?FRIEND. What could you say? Do not

think you can intimidate me.AUTHOR. I will not say that our na-

tive city [Footnote: Belley, capital of Bugey,where high mountains, hills, vines, limpidstreams, cascades, dells, gardens of a hun-dred square leagues are found, and where,BEFORE the revolution, the people were

able to control the other two orders.] is proudof having given you birth. At the age oftwenty-four you published an elementary book,which from that day has become a classic.A deserved reputation has attracted confi-dence to you. Your skill revives invalids;your dexterity animates them; your sensi-bility consoles them. All know this; but Iwill reveal to all Paris, to all France, the

sole fault of which I know you guilty.FRIEND. (Seriously.) What do you mean?AUTHOR. An habitual fault which no

persuasion can correct.FRIEND. Tell me what you mean! Why

torment me?AUTHOR. You eat too quickly.(Here, the friend takes up his hat and

leaves, fancying that he has made a con-72

vert.)BIOGRAPHYThe Doctor I have introduced into the

dialogue we have just read, is not a crea-ture of imagination like the Chloris of otherdays, but a real living Doctor. Those whoknow me, will remember RICHERAND.

When I thought of him I could not buthave reference to those who preceded him,

and I saw with pride that from Belley, fromthe department of Ain, my native soil, fora long time physicians of the greatest dis-tinction had come. I could not resist thetemptation to erect a brief monument tothem.

During the regency Doctors Genin andCivoct were in full possession of practice,and expended in their country a wealth they

had honorably acquired. The first was alto-gether HIPPOCRATITE; he proceeded se-cundum artem; the second was almost mo-nopolized by women, and had as his de-vice, as Tacitus would have said, res novasmolientem.

About 1780 Chapelle became distinguishedin the dangerous career of a military sur-geon. About 1781 Doctor Dubois had great

success in sundry maladies, then very mucha la mode, and in nervous diseases. Thesuccess he obtained was really wonderful.

Unfortunately he inherited a fortune andbecame idle, and was satisfied to be a goodstory-teller. He was very amusing, and con-trived to survive the dinners of the newand old regime. [Footnote: I smiled whenI wrote the above, for it recalled to me an

Academician, the eulogium of whom Fontenelleundertook. The deceased knew only howto play at all games. Fontenelle made avery decent oration, however, about him.]About the end of the reign of Louis XV.,Dr. Coste, a native of Chatillon came toParis; he had a letter from Voltaire to theDuc de Choiseuil, the good wishes of whomhe gained as soon as he had seen him.

Protected by this nobleman, and by theDuchess of Grammont, his sister, young Costeadvanced rapidly, and in a short time be-came one of the first physicians of Paris.

The patronage he had received took himfrom a profitable career to place him at thehead of the medical department of the armywhich France sent to the United States, whothen were contending for their independence.

Having fulfilled his mission, Coste re-turned to France, and almost unseen livedthrough the evil days of 1793. He was electedmaire of Versailles, and even now the mem-ory of his administration, at once mild, gen-tle and paternal, has been preserved.

The Directors now recalled him to thecharge of the medical department of thearmy. Bonaparte appointed him one of the

three Inspectors General of the service; theDoctor was always the friend, protector, andpatron of the young men who selected thatservice. He was at last appointed Physicianof the Invalides, and discharged the dutiesuntil he died.

Such service the Bourbons could not ne-glect, and Louis XVIII. granted to DoctorCoste the cordon of Saint Michel.

Doctor Coste died a few years since, leav-ing behind kind recollections, and a daugh-ter married to M. Lalot, who distinguishedhimself in the Chamber of Deputies by hiseloquent and profound arguments.

One day when we had dined with M.Favre, the Cure of St. Laurent, DoctorCoste told me of a difficulty he had, the daybefore, with the Count de Le Cessac, then a

high officer of the ministry of war, about acertain economy which the latter proposedas a means of paying his court Napoleon.

The economy consisted in retrenchingthe allowances of hospital, so as to restrictmen who had wounds from the comfortsthey were entitled to.

Doctor Coste said such measures wereabominable, and he became angry.

I do not know what the result was, butonly that the sick soldiers had their usualallowances, and that no change was made.

He was appointed Professor of the Fac-ulty of Medicine. His style was simple andhis addresses were plain and fruitful. Hon-ors were crowded on him. He was appointedPhysician to the Empress Marie Louise. Hedid not, however, fill that place long, the

Emperor was swept away, and the Doctorhimself succumbed to a disease of the leg,to which he had long been subject.

Bordier was of a calm disposition, kindand reliable.

About the 18th century appeared Bichat,all of the writings of whom bear the impressof genius. He expended his life in toil toadvance science, and joined the patience of

restricted minds to enthusiasm. He died atthe age of thirty, and public honors weredecreed to his memory.

At a later day came Doctor Montegre,who carried philosophy into clinics. He wasthe editor of the Gazette de Sante, and atthe age of forty died in the Antilles whitherhe had gone to complete his book on theVomite Negro.

At the present moment Richerand standson the highest degree of operative medicine,and his Elements of Physiology have beentranslated into every language. Appointedat an early date a Professor of the Facultyof Paris, he made all rely fully on him. He isthe keenest, gentlest, and quickest operatorin the world.

Recamier, a professor of the same fac-86

ulty, sits by his side.The present being thus assured, the fu-

ture expands itself before us! Under thewings of these mighty Professors arise youngmen of the same land, who seek to followtheir honorable examples.

Janin and Manjot already crush the pave-ment of Paris. Manjot devotes himself tothe diseases of children; he has happy inspi-

rations, and soon will tell the public whathe has discovered.

I trust my readers will pardon this di-gression of an old man, who, during an ab-sence of thirty years, has neither forgottenhis country nor his countrymen. I couldnot however omit all those physicians, thememory of whom is yet preserved in theirbirth- place, and who, though not conspicu-

ous, had not on that account the less meritor worth. [Footnote: The translator thinksseveral have made world-renowned names.]

PREFACE.In offering to the public the work I now

produce, I have undertaken no great labor.I have only put in order materials I hadcollected long ago. The occupation was anamusing one, which I reserved for my old

age.When I thought of the pleasures of the

table, under every point of view, I saw thatsomething better than a common cookerybook could be made out of it, and thatmuch might be said about essential and con-tinuous things, which have a direct influ-ence on health, happiness, and even on busi-ness.

When I had once gotten hold of the idea,all the rest came naturally. I looked around,took notes, and amidst the most sumptu-ous festivals looked at the guests. Thus Iescaped many of the dangers of convivial-ity.

To do what I have undertaken, one neednot be a physician, chemist, physiologist,or even a savant. All I learned, I learned

without the least idea that I would ever bean author. I was impressed by a laudablecuriosity, by the fear of remaining behindmy century, and by an anxiety to be able tosit at table on equal terms with the savantsI used to meet.

I am essentially an amateur medecin,and this to me is almost a mania. Amongthe happiest days of my life, when with the

Professors, I went to hear the thesis of Doc-tor Cloquet; I was delighted when I heardthe murmur of the students’ voices, each ofwhom asked who was the foreign professorwho honored the College with his presence.

One other day is, I think, almost as dearto me. I refer to the meeting of the soci-ety for the encouragement of national in-dustry, when I presented the irrorator, an

instrument of my own invention, which isneither more nor less than a forcing pumpfilled with perfumes.

I had an apparatus fully charged in mypocket. I turned the cock, and thence pressedout a perfume which filled the whole room.

Then I saw, with inexpressible pleasure,the wisest heads of the capital bend beneathmy irrigation, and I was glad to see that

those who received most, were the happiest.Thinking sometimes of the grave lucubra-

tions to which I was attracted by my sub-ject, I really as afraid that I would be trou-blesome. I have often read very stupid books.

I did all that I could to escape this re-proach. I have merely hovered over sub-jects which presented themselves to me; Ihave filled my book with anecdotes, some of

which to a degree are personal. I have omit-ted to mention many strange and singularthings, which critical judgment induced meto reject, and I recalled popular attentionto certain things which savants seemed tohave reserved to themselves. If, in spite ofall these efforts, I have not presented to myreaders a science rarely understood, I shallsleep just as calmly, being certain that the

MAJORITY will acquit me of all evil inten-tion.

It may perhaps be said that sometimes Iwrote too rapidly, and that sometimes I be-came garrulous. Is it my fault that I amold? Is it my fault that, like Ulysses, Ihave seen the manners and customs of manycities? Am I therefore blamable for writ-ing a little bit of autobiography? Let the

reader, however, remember that I do not in-flict my political memoirs on him, which hewould have to read, as he has many others,since during the last thirty years I have beenexactly in the position to see great men andgreat things.

Let no one assign me a place amongcompilers; had I been reduced thus low, Iwould have laid down my pen, and would

not have lived less happily.I said, like Juvenal:”Semper ego auditor tantum! nunquamne

reponam!”and those who know me will easily see

that used to the tumult of society and to thesilence of the study I had to take advantageof both one and the other of these positions.

I did too many things which pleased me99

particularly; I was able to mention manyfriends who did not expect me to do so, andrecalled some pleasant memories; I seizedon others which would have escaped, and,as we say familiarly, took my coffee.

It may be a single reader may in somecategory exclaim,—-”I wished to know if—-.” ”What was he thinking of,” etc., etc. Iam sure, though, the others will make him

be silent and receive with kindness the ef-fusions of a praiseworthy sentiment.

I have something to say about my style,which, as Buffon says, is all the man.

Let none think I come to ask for a favorwhich is never granted to those who needit. I wish merely to make an explanation.

I should write well, for Voltaire, JeanJacques, Fenelon, Buffon, and Cochin and

Aguesseau were my favorite authors. I knewthem by heart.

It may be though, that the gods orderedotherwise; if so, this is the cause of the willof the gods.

I know five languages which now are spo-ken, which gives me an immense refectoryof words.

When I need a word and do not find it102

in French, I select it from other tongues,and the reader has either to understand ortranslate me. Such is my fate.

I could have acted otherwise, but wasprevented by a kind of system to which Iwas invincibly attached.

I am satisfied that the French languagewhich I use is comparatively poor. Whatcould I do? Either borrow or steal.

I did neither, for such borrowings, can-not be restored, though to steal words isnot punishable by the penal code.

Any one may form an idea of my audac-ity when I say I applied the Spanish wordvolante to any one I had sent on an errand,and that I had determined to GALLICISEthe English word TO SIP, which means todrink in small quantities. I however dug out

the French word siroter, which expressesnearly the same thing.

I am aware the purists will appeal toBosseux, to Fenelon, Raceri, Boilleau, Pas-cal, and others of the reign of Louis XIV. Ifancy I hear their clamor.

To all this I reply distinctly, that I donot depreciate the merit of those authors;but what follows? Nothing, except that if

they played well on an inferior instrument,how much better would they have done ona superior one. Therefore, we may believethat Tartini would have played on the violinfar better than he did, if his bow had beenlong as that of Baillot.

I do not belong to the neologues or evento the romanticists; the last are discover-ers of hidden treasures, the former are like

sailors who go about to search for provisionsthey need.

The people of the North, and especiallythe English, have in this respect an im-mense advantage over us. Genius is neverrestricted by the want of expression, whichis either made or created. Thus it is thatof all subjects which demand depth and en-ergy, our translations make but pale and

dull infusions.Once I heard at the institute a pleas-

ant discourse on the danger of neologism,and on the necessity of maintaining our lan-guage as it was when the authors of thegreat century wrote.

”Like a chemist, I sifted the argumentand ascertained that it meant:

”We have done so well, that we neither108

need nor can do better.”Now; I have lived long enough to know

that each generation has done as much, andthat each one laughs at his grandfather.

Besides, words must change, when man-ners and ideas undergo perpetual modifi-cations. If we do things as the ancientsdid, we do not do them in the same man-ner. There are whole pages in many French

books, which cannot be translated into Latinor Greek.

All languages had their birth, their apogeeand decline. None of those which have beenfamous from the days of Sesostris to thatof Philip Augustus, exist except as monu-ments. The French will have the same fate,and in the year 2825 if read, will be readwith a dictionary.

I once had a terrible argument on thismatter with the famous M. Andrieux, atthe Academie Francaise.

I made my assault in good array, I at-tacked him vigorously, and would have beatenhim had he not made a prompt retreat, towhich I opposed no obstacle, fortunately forhim, as he was making one letter of the newlexicon.

I end by one important observation, forthat reason I have kept it till the last.

When I write of ME in the singular, Igossip with my reader, he may examine, dis-cuss, doubt or laugh; but when I say WE Iam a professor, and all must bow to me.

”I am, Sir Oracle,And when I ope my lips, let no dog bark.”Merchant of Venice.

PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE.MEDITATION FIRST.THE SENSES.The senses are the organs by which man

places himself in connexion with exteriorobjects.

NUMBER OF THE SENSES.1. They are at least six–Sight, which embraces space, and tells

us by means of light, of the existence andof the colors of the bodies around us.

Hearing, which, by the motion of theair, informs us of the motion of sounding orvibrating bodies.

Scent, by means of which we are madeaware of the odors bodies possess.

Taste, which enables us to distinguishall that has a flavor from that which is in-

sipid.Touch informs us of the consistency and

resistance of bodies.The last is genesiac or physical love, which

attracts the sexes to each other, and theobject of which is the reproduction of thespecies.

It is astonishing that, almost to the daysof Buffon, so important a sense was mis-

understood, and was confounded with thetouch.

Yet the sensation of which it is the seat,has nothing in common with touch; it re-sides in an apparatus as complete as themouth or the eyes, and what is singular isthat each sex has all that is needed to expe-rience the sensation; it is necessary that thetwo should be united to reach nature’s ob-

ject. If the TASTE, the object of which isthe preservation of the individual, be incon-testibly a sense, the same title must indu-bitably be preserved on the organs destinedto the preservation of the species.

Let us then assign to the genesiac thesensual place which cannot be refused to it,and let us leave to posterity the assignmentof its peculiar rank.

ACTION OF THE SENSES.

If we were permitted, even in imagination,to refer to the first moments of the existenceof the human race, we would believe thatthe first sensations were direct; that is tosay that all saw confusedly and indirectly,smelled without care, ate without tasting,etc.

The centre of all these sensations, how-ever, being the soul, the sensual attribute ofhumanity and active cause of perfectibility,they are reflected, compared, and judgedby it; the other senses then come to the as-sistance of each other, for the utility andwell-being of the sensitive; one or individ-ual.

Thus touch rectifies the errors of sight;119

sound, by means of articulate speech, be-comes the interpreter of every sentiment;taste is aided by sight and smell; hearingcompares sounds, appreciates distance; andthe genesiac sense takes possession of theorgans of all the senses.

The torrent of centuries rolling over thehuman race, has continually brought newperfections, the cause of which, ever active

though unseen, is found in the demandsmade by our senses, which always in theirturns demand to be occupied.

Sight thus gave birth to painting, to sculp-ture, and to spectacles of every kind.

Sound, to melody, harmony, to the dance,and to music in all its branches, and meansof execution.

Smell, to the discovery, manufacture and121

use of perfumes.Taste, to the production, choice and prepa-

ration of all that is used for food.Touch, to all art, trades and occupa-

tions.The genesiac sense, to all which pre-

pares or embellishes the reunion of senses,and, subsequently to the days of Francois I.,to romantic love, to coquetry, which origi-

nated in France and obtained its name there,and from which the elite of the world, col-lected in the capital of the universe, taketheir lessons every day.

This proposition, strange as it seems, isvery susceptible of demonstration; we can-not express with clearness in any ancientlanguage, ideas about these three great mo-tives of actual society.

I had written a dialogue on this sub-ject, but suppressed it for the purpose ofpermitting the reader, each in his own way,to think of the matter for himself. Thereis enough to occupy the mind and displayintelligence and erudition during a wholeevening.

We said above, that the genesiac sensetook possession of the organs of all the oth-

ers; the influence it has exerted over all sci-ences is not less. When we look closer, wewill find that all that is most delicate andingenious is due to the desire, to hope, orto gratitude, in connexion with the unionof the sexes.

Such is, indeed, the genealogy of thesenses, even the most abstract ones, all be-ing the immediate result of continuous ef-

forts made to gratify our senses.PERFECTNESS OF THE SENSES.These senses, our favorites, are far from

being perfect, and I will not pause to proveit. I will only observe, that that etherealsense–sight, and touch, which is at the otherextremity of the scale, have from time ac-quired a very remarkable additional power.

By means of spectacles the eye, so to126

say, escapes from the decay of age, whichtroubles almost all the other organs.

The telescope has discovered stars hith-erto unknown and inaccessible to all ourmeans of mensuration; it has penetrateddistances so great, that luminous and nec-essarily immense bodies present themselvesto us only like nebulous and almost imper-ceptible spots.

The microscope has made us acquaintedwith the interior configuration of bodies; orhas shown the existence of a vegetation andof plants, the existence of which we wereignorant of.

Animals a hundred thousand times smallerthan any visible with the naked eye havebeen discovered; these animalculae, how-ever, move, feed and multiply, establish-

ing the existence of organs of inconceivabletenuity.

Mechanics have multiplied our power;man has executed all that he could conceiveof, and has moved weights nature made in-accessible to his weakness.

By means of arms and of the lever, manhas conquered all nature; he has subjectedit to his pleasure, wants and caprices. He

has overturned its surfaces, and a feeblebiped has become king of creation.

Sight and touch, being thus increasedin capacity, might belong to some speciesfar superior to man; or rather the humanspecies would be far different had all thesenses been thus improved.

We must in the meantime remark, thatif touch has acquired a great development

as a muscular power, civilization has donealmost nothing for it as an organ of sensa-tion. We must, however, despair of noth-ing, but remember that the human race isyet young, and that only after a long se-ries of years can the senses aggrandise theirdomain.

For instance. Harmony was only dis-covered about four centuries ago, and that

celestial science is to sound what paintingis to colors.

Certainly, the ancients used to sing andaccompany themselves in unison. Their knowl-edge, however, ended there. They knewneither how to decompose sounds, nor toappreciate their relations. [Footnote: Weare aware that the contrary has been main-tained; the idea though cannot be supported.

Had the ancients been acquainted with har-mony, their writings would have preservedsome precise notion on the matter, insteadof a few obscure phrases, which may be tor-tured to mean anything. Besides, we can-not follow the birth and progress of har-mony in the monuments left to us; this obli-gation we owe to the Arabs, who made usa present of the organ, which produces at

one time many continuous sounds, and thuscreated harmony.]

Tone was only reduced to system, andaccords measured in the fifteenth century.Only then it was used to sustain the voiceand to reinforce the expression of sentiments.

This discovery, made at so late a day,yet so natural, doubled the hearing, andhas shown the existence of two somewhat

independent faculties, one of which receivessound and the other appreciates resonance.

The German Doctors say that personssensible of harmony have one sense morethan others.

Of those persons to whom music is buta confused mass of sounds, we may remarkthat almost all sing false. We are forcedto think that they have the auditory appa-

ratus so made, as to receive but brief andshort undulation, or that the two ears notbeing on the same diapason, the differencein length and sensibility of these constituentparts, causes them to transmit to the brainonly an obscure and undetermined sensa-tion, like two instruments played in neitherthe same key nor the same measure, andwhich can produce no continuous melody.

The centuries last passed have also giventhe taste important extension; the discov-ery of sugar, and its different preparations,of alcoholic liquors, of wine, ices, vanilla,tea and coffee, have given us flavors hith-erto unknown.

Who knows if touch will not have itsday, and if some fortuitous circumstancewill not open to us thence some new enjoy-

ments? This is especially probable as tac-tile sensitiveness exists every where in thebody, and consequently can every where beexcited.

We have seen that physical love has takenpossession of all the sciences. In this respectit acts with its habitual tyranny.

The taste is a more prudent measure butnot less active faculty. Taste, we say, has

accomplished the same thing, with a slow-ness which ensures its success.

Elsewhere we will consider the march.We may, however, observe, that he who hasenjoyed a sumptuous banquet in a hall deckedwith flowers, mirrors, paintings, and stat-ues, embalmed in perfume, enriched withpretty women, filled with delicious harmony,will not require any great effort of thought

to satisfy himself that all sciences have beenput in requisition to exalt and to enhancethe pleasures of taste.

OBJECT OF THE ACTION OF THESENSES.

Let us now glance at the system of oursenses, considered together, and we will seethat the Author of creation had two ob-jects, one of which is the consequence of

the other,–the preservation of the individ-ual and the duration of the species.

Such is the destiny of man, consideredas a sensitive being; all his actions have ref-erence to this double purpose.

The eye perceives external objects, re-veals the wonders by which a man is sur-rounded, and tells him he is a portion ofthe great whole.

Hearing perceives sounds, not only as anagreeable sensation, but as warnings of themovement of bodies likely to endanger us.

The sense of touch watches to warn usby pain of any immediate lesion.

That faithful servant the hand has pre-pared his defence, assured his steps, buthas from instinct seized objects it thoughtneeded to repair losses caused by the use of

life.The sense of smell explores; deleterious

substances almost always have an unpleas-ant smell.

The taste decides; the teeth are put inaction, the tongue unites with the palate intasting, and the stomach soon commencesthe process of assimilation.

In this state a strange languor is per-143

ceived, objects seem discolored, the bodybends, the eyes close, all disappears, andthe senses are in absolute repose.

When he awakes man sees that nothingaround him has changed, a secret fire fer-ments in his bosom, a new organ is devel-oped. He feels that he wishes to divide hisexistence.

This active unquiet and imperious sen-144

timent is common to both sexes. It attractsthem together and unites them, and whenthe germ of a new being is fecundated, theindividuals can sleep in peace.

They have fulfilled the holiest of theirduties by assuring the duration of the species.[Footnote: Buffon describes, with all thecharms of the most brilliant eloquence, thefirst moments of Eve’s existence. Called

on to describe almost the same subject, wehave drawn but one feature. The reader willcomplete the picture.]

Such are the general and philosophicalprinciples I wished to place before my read-ers, to lead them naturally to the examina-tion of the organ of taste.

MEDITATION II.TASTE.

DEFINITION OF TASTE.Taste is the sense which communicates

to us a knowledge of vapid bodies by meansof the sensations which they excite.

Taste, which has as its excitement ap-petite, hunger and thirst, is the basis ofmany operations the result of which is thatthe individual believes, developes, preservesand repairs the losses occasioned by vital

evaporation.Organized bodies are not sustained in

the same manner. The Author of creation,equally varied in causes and effects, has as-signed them different modes of preservation.

Vegetables, which are the lowest in thescale of living things, are fed by roots, which,implanted in the native soil, select by theaction of a peculiar mechanism, different

subjects, which serve to increase and to nour-ish them.

As we ascend the scale we find bodiesgifted with animal life and deprived of lo-comotion. They are produced in a mediumwhich favors their existence, and have spe-cial and peculiar organs which extract allthat is necessary to sustain the portion andduration of life allotted them. They do not

seek food, which, on the contrary, comes toseek them.

Another mode has been appointed foranimals endowed with locomotion, of whichman is doubtless the most perfect. A pecu-liar instinct warns him of the necessity offood; he seeks and seizes the things whichhe knows are necessary to satisfy his wants;he eats, renovates himself, and thus during

his life passes through the whole career as-signed to him.

Taste may be considered in three rela-tions.

In physical man it is the apparatus bymeans of which he appreciates flavors.

In moral man it is the sensation whichthe organ impressed by any savorous centreimpresses on the common centre. Consid-

ered as a material cause, taste is the prop-erty which a body has to impress the organand to create a sensation.

Taste seems to have two chief uses:1. It invites us by pleasure to repair the

losses which result from the use of life.2. It assists us to select from among the

substances offered by nature, those whichare alimentary.

In this choice taste is powerfully aidedby the sense of smell, as we will see here-after; as a general principle, it may be laiddown that nutritious substances are repul-sive neither to the taste nor to the smell.

It is difficult to say in exactly what thefaculty of taste consists. It is more compli-cated than it appears.

The tongue certainly plays a prominent153

part in the mechanism of degustation–for,being endued with great muscular power, itenfolds, turns, presses and swallows food.

Also, by means of the more or less nu-merous pores which cover it, it becomes im-pregnated with the sapid and soluble por-tions of the bodies which it is placed incontact with. Yet all this does not suffice,for many adjacent parts unite in completing

the sensation –viz: jaws, palate, and espe-cially the nasal tube, to which physiologistshave perhaps not paid attention enough.

The jaws furnish saliva, as necessary tomastication as to the formation of the di-gestible mass. They, like the palate, aregifted with a portion of the appreciative fac-ulties; I do not know that, in certain cases,the nose does not participate, and if but

for the odor which is felt in the back of themouth, the sensation of taste would not beobtuse and imperfect.

Persons who have no tongue or who havelost it, yet preserve the sensation of taste.All the books mention the first case; thesecond was explained to me by an unfortu-nate man, whose tongue had been cut outby the Algerines for having, with several

of his companions, formed a plot to escapefrom captivity.

I met this man at Amsterdam, wherehe was a kind of broker. He was a personof education, and by writing was perfectlyable to make himself understood.

Observing that his whole tongue, to thevery attachment, had been cut away, I askedhim if he yet preserved any sense of taste

when he ate, and if the sense of taste hadsurvived the cruel operation he had under-gone.

He told me his greatest annoyance wasin swallowing, (which indeed was difficult;)that he had a full appreciation of tastes andflavors, but that acid and bitter substancesproduced intense pain.

He told me the abscission of the tongue158

was very common in the African kingdoms,and was made use of most frequently topunish those thought to be the leaders ofany plot, and that they had peculiar instru-ments to affect it with. I wished him todescribe them, but he showed such painfulreluctance in this matter, that I did not in-sist.

I reflected on what he said, and ascend-159

ing to the centuries of ignorance, when thetongues of blasphemers were cut and pierced,I came to the conclusion that these pun-ishments were of Moorish origin, and wereimported by the crusaders.

We have seen above, that the sensationof taste resided chiefly in the pores and feel-ers of the tongue. Anatomy tells us that alltongues are not exactly alike, there being

three times as many feelers in some tonguesas in others. This circumstance will explainwhy one of two guests, sitting at the sametable, is delighted, while the other seems toeat from constraint; the latter has a tonguebut slightly provided. These are recognizedin the empire of the taste–both deaf anddumb.

SENSATION OF TASTE.161

Five or six opinions have been advancedas to the modus operandi of the sensationof taste. I have mine, viz:

The sensation of taste is a chemical op-eration, produced by humidity. That is tosay, the savorous particles must be dissolvedin some fluid, so as to be subsequently ab-sorbed by the nervous tubes, feelers, or ten-drils, which cover the interior of the gasta-

tory apparatus.This system, whether true or not, is sus-

tained by physical and almost palpable proofs.Pure water creates no sensation, because

it contains no sapid particle. Dissolve, how-ever, a grain of salt, or infuse a few dropsof vinegar, and there will be sensation.

Other drinks, on the contrary, createsensation because they are neither more nor

less than liquids filled with appreciable par-ticles.

It would be in vain for the mouth to fillitself with the divided particles of an insol-uble body. The tongue would feel by touchthe sensation of their presence, but not thatof taste.

In relation to solid and savorous bodies,it is necessary in the first place for the teeth

to divide them, that the saliva and othertasting fluids to imbibe them, and that thetongue press them against the palate, so asto express a juice, which, when sufficientlysaturated by the degastory tendrils, deliverto the substance the passport it requires foradmission into the stomach.

This system, which will yet receive otherdevelopments, replies without effort to the

principal questions which may present them-selves.

If we demand what is understood bysapid bodies, we reply that it is every thingthat has flavor, which is soluble, and fit tobe absorbed by the organ of taste.

If asked how a sapid body acts, we re-ply that it acts when it is reduced to sucha state of dissolution that it enters the cav-

ities made to receive it.In a word, nothing is sapid but what is

already or nearly dissolved.FLAVORS.The number of flavors is infinite, for ev-

ery soluble body has a peculiar flavor, likenone other.

Flavors are also modified by their sim-ple, double, or multiple aggregation. It is

impossible to make any description, eitherof the most pleasant or of the most unpleas-ant, of the raspberry or of colocynth. Allwho have tried to do so have failed.

This result should not amaze us, for be-ing gifted with an infinite variety of simpleflavors, which mixture modifies to such anumber and to such a quantity, a new lan-guage would he needed to express their ef-

fects, and mountains of folios to describethem. Numerical character alone could la-bel them.

Now, as yet, no flavor has ever been ap-preciated with rigorous exactness, we havebeen forced to be satisfied with a limitednumber of expressions such as SWEET, SUG-ARY, ACID, BITTER, and similar ones,which, when ultimately analyzed, are ex-

pressed by the two following AGREEABLEand DISAGREEABLE, which suffice to makeus understood, and indicate the flavor of thesapid substances referred to.

Those who come after us will know more,for doubtless chemistry will reveal the causesor primitive elements of flavors.

INFLUENCE OF SMELLING ON THETASTE.

The order I marked out for myself hasinsensibly led me to the moment to ren-der to smell the rights which belong to it,and to recognise the important services itrenders to taste and the application of fla-vors. Among the authors I have met with,I recognise none as having done full justiceto it.

For my own part, I am not only per-171

suaded that without the interposition of theorgans of smell, there would be no com-plete degustation, and that the taste andthe sense of smell form but one sense, ofwhich the mouth is the laboratory and thenose the chimney; or to speak more exactly,that one tastes tactile substances, and theother exhalations.

This may be vigorously defended; yet as172

I do not wish to establish a school, I ventureon it only to give my readers a subject ofthought, and to show that I have carefullylooked over the subject of which I write.Now I continue my demonstration of theimportance of the sense of smell, if not asa constituent portion of taste, at least as anecessary adjunct.

All sapid bodies are necessarily odorous,173

and therefore belong as well to the empireof the one as of the other sense.

We eat nothing without seeing this, moreor less plainly. The nose plays the partof sentinel, and always cries ”WHO GOESTHERE?”

Close the nose, and the taste is para-lyzed; a thing proved by three experimentsany one can make:

1. When the nasal membrane is irri-tated by a violent coryza (cold in the head)the taste is entirely obliterated. There isno taste in anything we swallow, yet thetongue is in its normal state.

2. If we close the nose when we eat,we are amazed to see how obscure and im-perfect the sense of touch is. The mostdisgusting medicines thus are swallowed al-

most without taste.3. The same effect is observed if, as soon

as we have swallowed, instead of restoringthe tongue to its usual place, it be kept de-tached from the palate. Thus the circula-tion of the air is intercepted, the organs ofsmell are not touched, and there is no taste.

These effects have the same cause, fromthe fact that the sense of smell does not

co-operate with the taste. The sapid bodyis appreciated only on account of the juice,and not for the odorous gas which emanatesfrom it.

ANALYSIS OF THE SENSATION OFTASTE.

Principles being thus determined, I lookon it as certain that taste has given place tosensations of three different orders, viz: DI-

RECT, COMPLETE and REFLECTED.Direct sensation is the first perception

emanating from the intermediate organs ofthe mouth, during the time that the sapidbody rests on the tongue.

Complete sensation is that composed ofthe first impression which is created whenthe food abandons this first position, passesinto the back of the mouth, and impresses

all the organ with both taste and perfume.Reflected sensation is the judgment which

conveys to the soul the impressions trans-mitted to it by the organ.

Let us put this system in action by ob-serving what takes place when a man ei-ther eats or drinks. Let a man, for in-stance, eat a peach, and he will first beagreeably impressed by the odor which em-

anates from it. He places it in his mouth,and acid and fresh flavors induce him tocontinue. Not, though, until he has swal-lowed it, does the perfume reveal itself, nordoes he till then discover the peculiar flavorof every variety. Some time is necessary forany gourmet [Footnote: Any gentleman orlady, who may please, is at perfect liberty totranslate the word gourmet into any other

tongue. I cannot. As much may be said ofgourmand.- -TRANSLATOR.] to say, ”It isgood, passable, or bad. It is Chambertin,or something else.”

It may then be seen that in obedienceto principles and practice well understood,true amateurs sip their wine. Every mouth-ful thus gives them the sum total of plea-sure which they would not have enjoyed had

they swallowed it at once.The same thing takes place, with how-

ever much more energy, when the taste isdisagreeably affected.

Just look at the patient of some doc-tor who prescribes immense doses of blackmedicine, such as were given during the reignof Louis XIV.

The sense of smell, like a faithful coun-182

sellor, foretells its character. The eyes ex-pand as they do at the approach of danger;disgust is on the lips and the stomach atonce rebells. He is however besought to takecourage, gurgles his throat with brandy, closeshis nose and swallows.

As long as the odious compound fills themouth and stuns the organ it is tolerable,but when it has been swallowed the after

drops develop themselves, nauseous odorsarise, and every feature of the patient ex-presses horror and disgust, which the fearof death alone could induce him to bear.

If the draught be on the contrary merelyinsipid, as for instance a glass of water, thereis neither taste nor after taste. Nothing isfelt, nothing is experienced, it is swallowed,and all is over.

ORDER OF THE IMPRESSIONS OFTASTE.

Taste is not so richly endowed as thehearing; the latter can appreciate and com-pare many sounds at once; the taste on thecontrary is simple in its action; that is tosay it cannot be sensible to two flavors atonce.

It may though be doubled and multipled185

by succession, that is to say that in the actof swallowing there may be a second andeven a third sensation, each of which gradu-ally grows weaker and weaker and which aredesignated by the words AFTER-TASTE,perfume or fragrance. Thus when a chordis struck, one ear exercises and dischargesmany series of consonances, the number ofwhich is not as yet perfectly known.

Those who eat quickly and without at-tention, do not discern impressions of thesecond degree. They belong only to a cer-tain number of the elect, and by the meansof these second sensations only can be classedthe different substances submitted to theirexamination.

These fugitive shadows for a long timevibrate in the organ of taste. The profes-

sors, beyond doubt, always assume an ap-propriate position, and when they give theiropinions they always do so with expandednostrils, and with their necks protruded faras they can go.

ENJOYMENTS DUE TO THE TASTE.Let us now look philosophically at the

pleasure and pain occasioned by taste.The first thing we become convinced of

is that man is organized so as to be far moresensible of pain than of pleasure.

In fact the imbibing of acid or bittersubstances subjects us to sensations moreor less painful, according to their degree. Itis said that the cause of the rapid effectsof hydrocyanic acid is that the pain is sogreat as to be unbearable by the powers ofvitality.

The scale of agreeable sensations on theother hand is very limited, and if there,be a sensible difference between the insipidand that which flatters the taste, the in-terval is not so great between the good andthe excellent. The following example provesthis:–FIRST TERM a Bouilli dry and hard.SECOND TERM a piece of veal. THIRDTERM a pheasant done to a turn.

Of all the senses though with which wehave been endowed by nature, the taste isthe one, which all things considered, pro-cures us the most enjoyments.

1. Because the pleasure of eating is theonly one, when moderately enjoyed, not fol-lowed, by fatigue.

2. It belongs to all aeras, ages and ranks.3. Because it necessarily returns once

a day, and may without inconvenience betwice or thrice repeated in the same day.

4. It mingles with all other pleasures,and even consoles us for their absence.

5. Because the impressions it receivesare durable and dependant on, our will.

6. Because when we eat we receive acertain indefinable and peculiar impressionof happiness originating in instinctive con-

science. When we eat too, we repair ourlosses and prolong our lives.

This will be more carefully explainedin the chapter we devote to the pleasuresof the table, considered as it has been ad-vanced by civilization.

SUPREMACY OF MAN.We were educated in the pleasant faith

that of all things that walk, swim, crawl, or193

fly, man has the most perfect taste.This faith is liable to be shaken.Dr. Gall, relying on I know not what

examinations, says there are many animalswith the gustatory apparatus more devel-oped and extended than man’s.

This does not sound well and looks likeheresy. Man, jure divino, king of all na-ture, for the benefit of whom the world was

peopled, must necessarily be supplied withan organ which places him in relation to allthat is sapid in his subjects.

The tongue of animals does not exceedtheir intelligence; in fishes the tongue is buta movable bone, in birds it is usually a mem-branous cartilage, and in quadrupeds it isoften covered with scales and asperities, andhas no circumflex motion.

The tongue of man on the contrary, fromthe delicacy of its texture and the differentmembranes by which it is surrounded andwhich are near to it announces the sublim-ity of the operations to which it is destined.

I have, at least, discovered three move-ments unknown to animals, which I call SPI-CATION, ROTATION and VERRATION(from the Latin verb verro, I sweep). The

first is when the tongue, like a PIKE, comesbeyond the lips which repress it. The sec-ond is when the tongue rotates around allthe space between the interior of the jawsand the palate. The third is when the tonguemoves up and down and gathers the parti-cles which remain in the half circular canalformed by the lips and gums.

Animals are limited in their taste; some197

live only on vegetables, others on flesh; oth-ers feed altogether on grain; none know any-thing of composite flavors.

Man is omnivorous. All that is edibleis subjected to his vast appetite, a thingwhich causes gustatory powers proportion-ate to the use he has to make of them. Theapparatus of taste is a rare perfection ofman and we have only to see him use it to

be satisfied of it.As soon as any esculent body is intro-

duced into the mouth it is confiscated hope-lessly, gas, juice and all.

The lips prevent its retrogression. Theteeth take possession of it and crush it. Thesalva imbibes it; the tongue turns it overand over, an aspiration forces it to the tho-rax; the tongue lifts it up to suffer it to pass.

The sense of smell perceives it en route, andit is precipitated into the stomach to un-dergo ulterior transformations, without themost minute fragment during the whole ofthis escaping. Every drop every atom hasbeen appreciated.

In consequence of this perfection, gour-mandise is the exclusive apanage of man.

This gourmandise is even contagious, and200

we impart it without difficulty to the ani-mals we have appropriated to our use, andwhich in a manner associate with us, suchas elephants, dogs, cats, and parrots even.

Besides taste requiring to be estimatedonly by the value of the sensation it com-municates to the common centre, the im-pression received by the animal cannot becompared to that imparted to man. The

latter is more precise and clear, and nec-essarily supposes a superior quality in theorgan which transmits it.

In fine, what can we desire in a facultysusceptible of such perfection that the gour-mands of Rome were able to distinguishthe flavors of fish taken above and belowthe bridge? Have we not seen in our owntime, that gourmands can distinguish the

flavor of the thigh on which the partridgelies down from the other? Are we not sur-rounded by gourmets who can tell the lati-tude in which any wine ripened as surely asone of Biot’s or Arago’s disciples can fore-tell an eclipse?

The consequence then is that we mustrender to Caesar the things which are Cae-sar’s and proclaim man the great GOUR-

MAND OF NATURE, and not be surprisedif the good Doctor does sometimes as Homerdid:–”Much zumeilen ichlafert der gute.”

METHOD OF THE AUTHOR.As yet we have treated the taste only

from the physical point of view, and in someanatomical details which none will regret,we have remained pari passu with science.This does not however conclude the task

we have imposed on ourselves, for from itsusual attributes especially does this repara-tory sense derive its importance.

We have then arranged in analytical or-der the theories and facts which composethe ensemble of this history, so that instruc-tion without fatigue will result from it.

Thus in the following chapters, we willoften show how sensations by repetition and

reflection have perfected the organs and ex-tended the sphere of our powers. How thewant of food, once a mere instinct, has be-come a passion which has assumed a markedascendency of all that belongs to society

We will also say, how all sciences whichhave to do with the composition of sub-stances, have agreed to place in a separatecategory all those appreciable to the taste;

and how travellers have followed in the samepathway when they placed before us sub-stances nature apparently never meant usto see.

We will follow chemistry to the very mo-ment when it penetrated our subterraneouslaboratories to enlighten our PREPARERS,to establish principles, to create methodsand to unveil causes which had remained

occult.In fine we will see by the combined power

of time and experience that a new sciencehas all at once appeared, which feeds, nour-ishes, restores, preserves, persuades, con-soles, and not content with strewing hands-full of flowers over the individual, contributesmuch to the power and prosperity of em-pires.

If, amid the grave lucubrations, a pi-quante anecdote, or an agreeable reminis-cence of a stormy life drips from my pen, wewill let it remain to enable the attention torest for a moment, so that our readers, thenumber of whom does not alarm us, mayhave time to breathe. We would like to chatwith them. If they be men we know theyare indulgent as they are well informed. If

women they must be charming. [Footnote:Here the Professor, full of his subject, suf-fers his hand to fall and rises to the seventhheaven. He ascends the torrent of ages, andtakes from their cradle all sciences, the ob-ject of which is the gratification of taste. Hefollows their progress through the night oftime and seeing that in the pleasures theyprocure us, early centures were not so great

as those which followed them: he takes hislyre and sings in the Dorian style the elegywhich will be found among the varieties atthe end of the volume.]

MEDITATION III.GASTRONOMY.ORIGIN OF SCIENCES.THE sciences are not like Minerva who

started ready armed from the brain of Jupiter.211

They are children of time and are formedinsensibly by the collection of the meth-ods pointed out by experience, and at alater day by the principles deduced from thecombination of these methods.

Thus old men, the prudence of whomcaused them to be called to the bed-side ofinvalids, whose compassion taught to curewounds, were the first physicians.

The shepherds of Egypt, who observedthat certain stars after the lapse of a certainperiod of time met in the heavens, were thefirst astronomers.

The person who first uttered in simplelanguage the truth, 2 + 2 = 4 created math-ematics, that mighty science which reallyplaced man on the throne of the universe.

In the course of the last sixty years, many213

new sciences have taken their place in thecategory of our knowledge, among which isstereotomy, descriptive geometry, and thechemistry of gas.

All sciences cultivated for a long timemust advance, especially as the art of print-ing makes retrogression impossible. Whoknows, for instance, if the chemistry of gaseswill not ultimately overcome those, as yet,

rebellious substances, mingle and combinethem in proportions not as yet tempted,and thence obtain substances and effectswhich would remove many restrictions inour powers.

ORIGIN OF GASTRONOMY.Gastronomy has at last appeared, and

all the sister sciences have made a way forit.

Well; what could be refused to that whichsustains us, from the cradle to the grave,which increases the gratifications of love andthe confidence of friendship which disarmshatred and offers us, in the short passage ofour lives, the only pleasure which not beingfollowed by fatigue makes us weary of allothers.

Certainly, as long as it was confided to216

merely hired attendants, as long as the se-cret was kept in cellars, and where dispen-saries were written, the results were but theproducts of an art.

At last, too late, perhaps, savants drewnear.

They examined, analyzed, and classifiedalimentary substances, and reduced themto simple elements.

They measured the mysteries of assimi-lation, and following most matter in all itsmetamorphoses saw how it became vivified.

They watched diet in its temporary andpermanent effects, for days, months and lives.

They even estimated its influence andthought to ascertain if the savor he impressedby the organs or if it acts without them.From all this they deduced a lofty theory

which embraces all mankind, and all thatportion of creation which may be animal-ized.

While all this was going on in the stud-ies of savants, it was said in drawing-roomsthat the science which fed man was at leastas valuable as that which killed him. Poetssang the pleasures of the table and books,the object of which was good cheer, awak-

ened the greatest and keenest interest in theprofound views and maxims they presented.

Such were the circumstances which pre-ceded the invention of gastronomy.

DEFINITION OF GASTRONOMY.Gastronomy is a scientific definition of

all that relates to man as a feeding animal.Its object is to watch over the preserva-

tion of man by means of the best possible220

food.It does so by directing, according to cer-

tain principles, all those who procure, searchfor, or prepare things which may be con-verted into food.

To tell the truth this is what moves cul-tivators, vine-dressers, fishermen, huntsmen,and the immense family of cooks, what-ever title or qualification they bear, to the

preparation of food.Gastronomy is a chapter of natural his-

tory, for the fact that it makes a classifica-tion of alimentary substances.

Of physics, for it examines their proper-ties and qualities.

Of chemistry, from the various analy-sis and decomposition to which it subjectsthem.

Of cookery, from the fact that it pre-pares food and makes it agreeable.

Of commerce, from the fact that it pur-chases at as low a rate as possible what itconsumes, and displays to the greatest ad-vantage what it offers for sale.

Lastly it is a chapter of political econ-omy, from the resources it furnishes the tax-ing power, and the means of exchange it

substitutes between nations.Gastronomy rules all life, for the tears

of the infant cry for the bosom of the nurse;the dying man receives with some degree ofpleasure the last cooling drink, which, alas!he is unable to digest.

It has to do with all classes of society, forif it presides over the banquets of assembledkings, it calculates the number of minutes

of ebullition which an egg requires.The material of gastronomy is all that

may be eaten; its object is direct, the preser-vation of individuals. Its means of execu-tion are cultivation, which produces; com-merce, which exchanges; industry, which pre-pares; and experience, which teaches us toput them to the best use.

DIFFERENT OBJECTS OF GASTRON-225

OMY.Gastronomy considers taste in its plea-

sures and in its pains. It has discovered thegradual excitements of which it is suscepti-ble; it regularizes its action, and has fixedlimits, which a man who respects himselfwill never pass.

It also considers the action of food oraliments on the moral of man, on his imagi-

nation, his mind, his judgment, his courage,and his perceptions, whether he is awake,sleeps, acts, or reposes.

Gastronomy determines the degree of es-culence of every alimentary subject; all arenot presentable under the same circumstances.

Some can be eaten until they are en-tirely developed. Such like as capres, as-paragus, sucking pigs, squabs, and other

animals eaten only when they are young.Others, as soon as they have reached all

the perfection to which they are destined,like melons, fruit, mutton, beef, and grownanimals. Others when they begin to decom-pose, such as snipe, wood- cock and pheas-ant. Others not until cooking has destroyedall their injurious properties, such as thepotato, manioc, and other substances.

Gastronomy classifies all of these sub-stances according to their qualities, and in-dicates those which will mingle, and mea-suring the quantity of nourishment they con-tain, distinguishes those which should makethe basis of our repast, from those which areonly accessories, and others which, thoughnot necessary, are an agreeable relief, andbecome the obligato accompaniment of con-

vivial gossip.It takes no less interest in the beverages

intended for us, according to time, placeand climate. It teaches their preparationand preservation, and especially presents themin an order so exactly calculated, that thepleasure perpetually increases, until gratifi-cation ends and abuse begins.

Gastronomy examines men and things230

for the purpose of transporting, from onecountry to another, all that deserves to beknown, and which causes a well arrangedentertainment, to be an abridgement of theworld in which each portion is represented.

UTILITY OF GASTRONOMICAL KNOWL-EDGE.

Gastronomical knowledge is necessary toall men, for it tends to augment the sum of

happiness. This utility becomes the greaterin proportion as it is used by the more com-fortable classes of society; it is indispens-able to those who have large incomes, andentertain a great deal, either because in thisrespect they discharge an obligation, followtheir own inclination, or yield to fashion.

They have this special advantage, thatthey take personal pleasure in the manner

their table is kept; they can, to a certainpoint, superintend the depositories of theirconfidence, and even on many occasions di-rect them.

The Prince de Soubise once intended togive an entertainment, and asked for the billof fare.

The maitre d’hotel came with a list sur-rounded by vignettes, and the first article

that met the Prince’s eye was FIFTY HAMS.”Bertrand,” said the Prince, ”I think youmust be extravagant; fifty hams! Do youintend to feast my whole regiment?”

”No, Prince, there will be but one onthe table, and the surplus I need for myepagnole, my blonds, garnitures, etc.”

”Bertrand, you are robbing me. Thisarticle will not do.”

”Monsigneur,” said the artist, ”you donot appreciate me! Give the order, and Iwill put those fifty hams in a chrystal flaskno longer than my thumb.”

What could be said to such a positiveoperation? The Prince smiled, and the hamswere passed.

INFLUENCE OF GASTRONOMY INBUSINESS.

In men not far removed from a state ofnature, it is well known that all importantaffairs are discussed at their feasts. Amidtheir festivals savages decide on war andpeace; we need not go far to know thatvillages decide on all public affairs at thecabinet.

This observation has not escaped thoseto whom the weightiest affairs are often con-

fided. They saw that a full stomached indi-vidual was very different from a fasting one;that the table established a kind of alliancebetween the parties, and made guests moreapt to receive certain impressions and sub-mit to certain influences. This was the ori-gin of political gastronomy. Entertainmentshave become governmental measures, andthe fate of nations is decided on in a ban-

quet. This is neither a paradox nor a nov-elty but a simple observation of fact. Openevery historian, from the time of Herodotusto our own days, and it will be seen that,not even excepting conspiracies, no greatevent ever took place, not conceived, pre-pared and arranged at a festival.

GASTRONOMICAL ACADEMY.Such, at the first glance, appears to be

the domain of gastronomy, a realm fertile inresults of every kind and which is aggran-dized by the discoveries and inventions ofthose who cultivate it. It is certain that be-fore the lapse of many years, gastronomywill have its academicians, courses, profes-sors, and premiums.

At first some rich and zealous gastronomerwill establish periodical assemblies, in which

the most learned theorists will unite withartists, to discuss and measure the variousbranches of alimentation.

Soon (such is the history of all academies)the government will intervene, will regu-larise, protect, and institute; it will seizethe opportunity to reward the people forall orphans made by war, for all the Ari-anas whose tears have been evoked by the

drum.Happy will be the depository of power

who will attach his name to this necessaryinstitution! His name will be repeated fromage to age with that of Noah, Bacchus, Trip-tolemus, and other benefactors of human-ity; he will be among ministers what HenriIV. was among kings; his eulogy will be inevery mouth, though no regulation make it

a necessity.MEDITATION IV.APPETITE.DEFINITION OF APPETITE.MOTION and life occasion in the ani-

mal portion of all that lives a constant lossof substance, and the human body, thatmost complicated machine, would soon beunfit for use, did not Providence provide it

with a mark to inform it of the very momentwhen its power is no longer in equilibriumwith its wants.

This monitor is appetite. By this wordwe understand the first impression of thewant of food.

Appetite declares itself by languor in thestomach, and a slight sensation of fatigue.

The soul at the same time busies itself243

with things analogous to its wants; mem-ory recalls food that has flattered its taste;imagination fancies that it sees them, andsomething like a dream takes place. Thisstate is not without pleasure, and we haveheard many adepts say, with joy in theirheart, ”What a pleasure it is to have a goodappetite, when we are certain of a goodmeal.”

The whole nutritive apparatus is moved.The stomach becomes sensible, the gastricjuices are moved and displace themselveswith noise, the mouth becomes moist, andall the digestive powers are under arms, likesoldiers awaiting the word of command. Af-ter a few moments there will be spasmodicmotion, pain and hunger.

Every shade of these gradations may be245

observed in every drawing- room, when din-ner is delayed.

They are such in nature, that the mostexquisite politeness cannot disguise the symp-toms. From this fact I deduced the apothegm,”THE MOST INDISPENSABLE QUALITYOF A GOOD COOK IS PROMPTNESS.”

ANECDOTE.I will sustain this grave maxim by the

details of an observate, made at an enter-tainment where I was,

”Quorum magna pars fui,”and where the pleasures of observation

preserved me from the anguish of misery.I was invited to dine with a high public

functionary. The hour was half past five,and at the appointed time all were present.We knew he liked exactness, and always

scolded the dilatory.I was amazed, when I came, at the con-

sternation which pervaded the party. Peo-ple whispered together, and looked into thecourt-yard through the window–all betokenedsomething extraordinary.

I approached the one of the guests I thoughtbest able to satisfy my curiosity, and askedhim what the news was.

”Alas!” said they, ”Monsieur has beensent for to the Council of State; he has justgone, and none know when he will return.”

”Is that all!” said I. ”Be of good cheer,we will be detained only a quarter of anhour; something particular has happened.All know to-day is his regular dinner, andwe will not have to fast.” I was not, how-ever, easy, and wished I was away.

The first hour passed well enough, andthose who were intimate sat together. Com-mon places were exhausted, and conjectureswere formed as to what could have calledthe Prince to the Tuilleries

At the commencement of the second hourthere were many signs of impatience; peoplelooked anxiously at each other and the firstwho murmured were three or four guests

who, finding no place to sit in, were not ina convenient position to wait.

At the third hour, the discontent be-came general, and every symptom becameexaggerated. ”When will he return?” saidone. ”What can he be thinking of?” saidanother. ”This is death,” said a third. Thisquestion was then put, but not determined,”Shall we go or not?”

At the fourth hour every symptom be-came aggravated. People stretched out theirarms without the slightest regard whetherthey interrupted their neighbors or not. Un-pleasant sounds were heard from all parts ofthe room, and everywhere the faces of theguests bore the marks of concentration. Noone listened to me when I remarked thatbeyond doubt our absent amphytrion was

more unhappy than any one of us.Our attention was for a moment arrested

by an apparition. One of the guests, bet-ter acquainted with the house than the oth-ers, had gone into the kitchen, and returnedpanting. His face looked as if the day ofjudgment had come, and in an almost inar-ticulate voice, which announced at once boththe fear of making a noise and of not be-

ing heard, ”Monsigneur went away withoutgiving any orders, and happen what may,dinner will not be served until his return.”

The terror caused by what he said couldnot be exceeded by that to be expected atthe last trump.

Among the martyrs, the most unfortu-nate was D’Aigrefeuille, whom all Paris knew.His whole body seemed to suffer, and the

agony of Laocoon was marked on his face.Pale, terrified, he saw nothing but sank in achair, grasped his hands on his round stom-ach, and closed his eyes, not to sleep but todie.

He did not though. About ten o’clocka carriage drove into the yard. All were onthe qui-vive and a arose spontaneously. Hi-larity succeeded suffering, and in five min-

utes we were at the table.Appetite however was gone, all seemed

amazed to sit down to dinner at such an un-usual hour; the jaws had not that isochronousmeasure which announces a regular busi-ness. I know many were sufferers thus.

The course to be taken is not to eat im-mediately after the obstacle has ceased, butto drink a glass of eau-sucree, or take a plate

of soup to sustain the stomach, and thenin ten or fifteen minutes to begin dinner,to prevent the stomach being oppressed bythe weight of the aliments with which it issurcharged.

GREAT APPETITES.When we see in early books a descrip-

tion of the preparations made to receive twoor three persons, and the enormous masses

served up to a single guest, we cannot refuseto think that those who lived in early ageswere gifted with great appetites.

The appetite was thought to increase indirect ratio to the dignity of the personage.He to whom the saddle of a five year oldox would be served was expected to drinkfrom a cup he could scarcely lift.

Some individuals have existed who tes-258

tified to what once passed, and have col-lected details of almost incredible variety,which included even the foulest objects.

I will not inflict these disgusting detailson my readers, and prefer to tell them twoparticular circumstances which I witnessed,and which do not require any great exertionof faith.

About forty years ago, I made a short259

visit to the cure at Bregnier, a man of im-mense stature and who had a fearful ap-petite.

Though it was scarcely noon I found himat the table. Soup and bouilli had beenbrought on, to these two indispensables hadsucceeded a leg of mutton a la Royale, acapon and a salad.

As soon as he saw me he ordered a plate260

which I refused, and rightly too. Withoutany assistance he got rid of every thing, viz:he picked the bone of mutton and ate up allthe salad.

They brought him a large white cheeseinto which he made an angular breach mea-sured by an arc of ninety degrees. He washeddown all with a bottle of wine and glass ofwater, after which he laid down.

What pleased me was to see that dur-ing the whole of this business, the venerablepastor did not seem busy. The large mouth-fulls he swallowed did not prevent him ei-ther from laughing or talking. He dispatchedall that was put before him easily as hewould have a pair of birds.

So it was with General Bisson who drankeight bottles of wine at dinner every day,

and who never appeared the worse for it.He had a glass larger than usual and emp-tied it oftener. He did not care for thatthough, for after having swallowed six ouncesof fluids he could jest and give his orders asif he had only swallowed a thimble full.

This anecdote recalls to me my towns-man, General P. Sibuet, long the chief aideof Napoleon, and who was killed in 1813 at

the passage of the Bober.He was eighteen years old, and had at

that time the appetite by which nature an-nounces that its possessor is a perfect man,and went one night into the kitchen of Genin,an inn keeper of Belley, where the old menof the town used to meet to eat chestnutsand drink the new white wine called in thecountry vin bourru.

The old men were not hungry and paidno attention to him. His digestive powerswere not shaken though, and he said ”I havejust left the table, but I will bet that I eata whole turkey.”

”If you eat it I will pay for it,” saidBouvier du Bouchet, a rich farmer who waspresent, ”and if you do not I will eat whatis left and you shall pay for it.” [Footnote:

This sentence is patois, and the translatorinserts the original. ”Sez vosu meze, z’upayo, repondit Bouvier du Bouchet, grosfermier qui se trouvait present; e sez voscaca en rotaz, i-zet vo ket paire et may ketmezerai la restaz.”]

They set to work at once, and the youngathlete at once cut off a wing, he ate itat two mouthfulls and cleaned his teeth by

gnawing the bone and drank a glass of wineas an interlude.

He then went into the thigh which he ateand drank another glass of wine to preparea passage for the rest. The second went thesame way, and he had come to the last limbwhen the unfortunate farmer said, ”alas! Isee it is all over, but Mr. Sibouet as I haveto pay, let me eat a bit.” [Footnote: This

also is patois. ”Hai! ze vaie praou qu’izetfotu; m’ez, monche Chibouet, poez kaet zudaive paiet, lesse m’en a m’en mesiet onmocho.”]

Prosper was as good a fellow as he wasa soldier, and consented. The farmer hadthe carcass at spolia opima, and paid forthe fowl with a good grace.

General Sibuet used always to love to268

tell of this feat of his youth. He said thathis admitting the farmer to eat was a purecourtesy, and that he could easily have wonthe bet. His appetite at forty permittednone to doubt the assertion.

Brillat-Savarin, says in a note, ”I quotethis fragment of the patois of Bugey withpleasure. In it is found the English ’th andthe Greek 0, and in the word praou and oth-

ers, a dipthong existing in no language, thesound of which no character can describe.”(See 3d Volume of the Memoirs of the RoyalSociety of Antiquarians of France.)

MEDITATION V.FOOD IN GERMS.SECTION FIRST.DEFINITIONS.WHAT is understood by aliments?

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