american wine: the ultimate companion to the wines and wineries of the united statesby jancis...
TRANSCRIPT
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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MACXBKM@
_B@C
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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MACXBKM@
_B@C^fc Sdtbamtc Keapm`be` te tfc_b`cs m`n _b`crbcs ei tfc
S`btcn [tmtcs
GM@KB[ XEHB@[E@
M@NDB@NM ASXZFR
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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S`bvcrsbty ei Kmdbier`bm Zrcss, e`c ei tfc aest
nbstb`oubsfcn u`bvcrsbty prcsscs b` tfc S`btcn [tmtcs,
c`rbkfcs dbvcs mreu`n tfc werdn hy mnvm`kb`o skfedmrsfbp
b` tfc fuam`btbcs, sekbmd skbc`kcs, m`n `mturmd skbc`kcs.
Bts mktbvbtbcs mrc suppertcn hy tfc SK Zrcss Ieu`nmtbe`
m`n hy pfbdm`tfrepbk ke`trbhutbe`s irea b`nbvbnumds m`n
b`stbtutbe`s. Ier aerc b`ieramtbe`, vbsbt www.ukprcss.cnu.
S`bvcrsbty ei Kmdbier`bm Zrcss
Hcrlcdcy m`n Des M`ocdcs, Kmdbier`bm
Macrbkm` _b`c
hy Gm`kbs Xehb`se` m`n Db`nm Aurpfy
Ibrst puhdbsfcn b` Orcmt Hrbtmb` b` 8:=; hy Abtkfcdd
Hcmzdcy, m` baprb`t ei Ektepus Zuhdbsfb`o Oreup Dtn,
C`ncmveur Feusc, =62 [fmitcshury Mvc`uc,
De`ne` _K8F 6GR
www.ektepusheels.ke.ul
M` Fmkfcttc SL Keapm`y
www.fmkfcttc.ke.ul
Kepyrboft Ektepus Zuhdbsfb`o Oreup Dtn 8:=;
^cxt kepyrboft Gm kbs Xehb se` & Db`nm Aurpfy 8:=;
^fc mutfers fmvc msscrtcn tfcbr aermd rbofts.
Mdd rbofts rcscrvcn. @e pmrt ei tfbs werl amy hc
rcprenukcn er utbdbzcn b` m`y iera er hy m`y acm`s,
cdcktre`bk er ackfm`bkmd, b`kdunb`o pfetekepyb o,
rckernb`o, er hy m`y b`ieramtbe` stermoc m`n rctrbcvmd
systca, wbtfeut tfc prber wrbttc` pcrabssbe` ei tfc
puhdbsfcrs.
^fc puhdbsfcrs wbdd hc ormtciud ier m`y b`ieramtbe`
tfmt wbdd mssbst tfca b` lccpb`o iuturc cnbtbe`s up tenmtc. Mdtfeuof mdd rcmse`mhdc kmrc fms hcc` tmlc` b` tfc
prcpmrmtbe` ei tfbs heel, `cbtfcr tfc puhdbsfcrs `er tfc
mutfer km` mkkcpt m`y dbmhbdbty ier m`y ke`scquc`kc mrbsb`o
irea tfc usc tfcrcei, er tfc b`ieramtbe` ke`tmb`cn tfcrcb`.
Dbhrmry ei Ke`orcss Ke`tred @uahcr 8:=82>>::8
B[H@7 2?6-:-38:-8?;8=->
[ct b` Omrmae`n.
Zrb`tcn m`n heu`n b` Kfb`m.
Cnbterbmd Ke`sudtm`t7 Obdd Zbtts[c`ber Zrenuktbe` Ke`treddcr7 Duky Kmrtcr
ZXENSKCN IEX EK^EZS[ ZSHDB[FB@O OXESZ
D^N. HR [AMDD_EEN & [^C_MX^, @RK
Am`mob`o Cnbter7 Gef` [amddween
Ncsbo`7 Mdcxbs [brek
Bamoc Xcscmrkf7 Amrbm A. Wcrmim
Kmrteormpfbk Cnbter7 Kfmrdettc Abddcr
Cnbterbmd Xcscmrkf7 Lmtfcrb`c Kmamroe
Kmrteormpfy7 Kesaeormpfbks
B`ncx7 Zfmres B`ncxb`o
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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KE@^C@^[Zrcimkc vb bb
Macrbkm`_b`camlb`oKeacseiMoc =
^fc_cst KMDBIEX@BM =6
Ac`nekb`e Keu`ty 88
Dmlc Keu`ty 89[e`eam Keu`ty 86
Des Kmr`cres MYM 3:
@mpm Ymddcy MYM 3>
Hmy Mrcm 2:
Ae`tcrcy Keu`ty =:8
[m` Hc`bte & Aeu`t Fmrdm` MYMs =:6
[m` Dubs Ehbspe Keu`ty ==:
[m`tm Hmrhmrm Keu`ty ==2
[bcrrm Ieetfbdds =;:
Kc`trmd Ymddcy =;9
[eutf Kemst =>:
EXCOE@ =>9_bd dmact tc Ymddcy MYM =>2
[eutfcr` Ercoe` =3>
_M[FB@O ^E@ =9:Keduahbm Ymddcy MYM =9>
Zuoct [eu`n MYM m`n [cmttdc =?6
BNMFE =68
KEDEXMNE =63
E^FCX AES@^MB@ [^M^C[ =2:[eutf Nmletm, @ertf Nmletm, Ae`tm`m,
Stmf, @cvmnm, _yeab`o
FM_MBB M@N MD M[L M =2>
^fc[eutfwcst MXBWE@M =26
@C_ ACVBKE 8:8
^CVM[ 8:>
ELDMFEAM 8=:
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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^fcAbnwcst AB[[ESXB 8=>
E^FCX _C[^KC@^X MD [^M^C[ 8=2Lm`sms, Bewm, Ab``csetm, @chrmslm
ABKFBOM@ 888
E^FCX CM[^KC@^XM D [^M^C[ 889Bddb`ebs, B`nbm`m, Efbe, _bske`sb`
^fc[eutfcmst YBXOB@B M 8;8
KC@^XM D MZZMDMKFBM 8>:Lc`tukly, @ertf Kmredb`m, [eutf Kmredb`m,
^c``csscc , _cst Ybrob` bm
DE_CX [ES^F 8>>Ocerobm, Iderbnm, Mdmhmam, Abssbssbppb,
Deubsbm`m, Mrlm`sms
^fc@ertfcmst@C_ C@ODM@N 8>6Ke``cktbkut, @cw Fmapsfbrc, Xfenc Bsdm`n,
Ycrae`t , Amssmkfusct ts, Amb`c
@C_ REXL 83:De`o Bsdm`n MYM 838
Funse` Xbvcr Xcobe` MYM 839
Ib`ocr Dmlcs MYM 836
@bmomrm Cskmrpac`t MYM 89>
Dmlc Crbc MYM 893
ZC@@[RDYM@BM 899
ABN-M^DM@^BK [^M^C[@cw Gcrscy, Ncdmwmrc, Amrydm`n 896
B`ncx 8?:Mkl`ewdcnoac`ts/Krcnbts 8?6
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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vbbb | ZXCIMKC
Bts fmrn te hcdbcvc tenmy tfmt ms rckc`tdy ms twc`ty ycmrs moe Macrbkm` wb`c
prenukcrs icdt tfcy wcrc u`ncr sbcoc. ^mdl wms mdd ei `ceprefbhbtbe`bsts, wmr`b`o
dmhcds, m`n cvc` aerc rcoudmtery ke`strmb`t tfm` tfmt ieddewb`o fc @ehdc Cxpcr-bac`t (`mtbe`md prefbhbtbe`) b` tfc =28:s. ^enmy, fewcvcr, wfc`cvcr B spc`n tbac
b` m` Macrbkm` kbty, B iccd ms tfeuof wb`c ms m suhgckt ier stuny m`n c`geyac`t
bs rcn fet. ^fcrcs m` c`croctbk c`tfusbmsa ier cxpcrbc`kb`o bts pdcmsurcs m`n
`um`kcs m`n m oc`ub`c kurbesbty mheut tfc keapdcxbtbcs ei few bt bs orew` m`n
amnc tfmt B sc`sc `ewfcrc cdsc b` tfc werdn (wbtf tfc pessbhdc cxkcptbe` ei
Kfb`ms imstcst-orewb`o kbtbcs). Bt bs fmrndy surprbsb`o tfmt mdd wb`c ormpfs b` tfc
S`btcn [tmtcs scca te hc fcmnb`o b` e`c nbrcktbe`, se aukf se tfmt tfc [tmtcs
rckc`tdy evcrteel tfc ciictc amger wb`c prenukcrs ei Curepc, sukf ms Irm`kc m`n
Btmdy, wfcrc wb`c fms `e aerc `evcdty vmduc tfm` petmtecs, te hckeac tfc werdnshboocst wb`c amrlct.
^fbs urhm` devc miimbr fms hcc` amtkfcn hy m orcmt oreu`nswcdd ei vb`eus
mktbvbty b` tfc Macrbkm` keu`trysbnc. Ormpcvb`cs wcrc e`kc orew` scrbeusdy ier
wb`c b` gust m fm`niud ei stmtcsprcneab`m`tdy b` Kmdbier`bms vbtbkudturmddy bncmd
kdbamtc, ms wcdd ms b` upstmtc @cw Rerl, kdesc te amger ke`urhmtbe`s, m`n b` pmrts
ei tfc Abnwcst, `etmhdy Efbe m`n Absseurb, wfcrc vb`cs fbsterbkmddy put new`
reets b` Macrbkm` sebd. Nurb`o tfc scke`n fmdi ei tfc twc`tbctf kc`tury, m`etfcr
mrrmy ei wb`c-prenukb`o stmtcs, b`kdunb`o _msfb`ote`, Ercoe`, Ybrob`bm, Zc``-
sydvm`bm, m`n @cw Gcrscy, huroce`cn m`n prespcrcn. enmy tfcrc bs `et m stmtc b`tfc u`be`, cvc` b` sukf u`dblcdy eutpests ier tfc vb`c ms Fmwmbb m`n Mdmslm, tfmt
bs `et feac te m wb`cry. ^fc tetmd `uahcr ei eikbmddy dbkc`scn wb`c prenukcrs
b` tfc S`btcn [tmtcs fms ausfreeacn irea et aukf aerc tfm` twe tfeusm`n mt
tfc tur` ei tfc abddc``bua te aerc tfm` scvc` tfeusm`n tenmy.
Mnabttcndy, seac ei tfcsc wb`crbcs mrc dekmtcn b` pdmkcs se b`fespbtmhdc te
tfc vb`ckcrtmb`dy ier tfc Curepcm` ormpcvb`c Ybtbs vb`bicrmtfmt tfcy eitc`
Z
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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bxZXCIMKC |
fmvc te ncpc`n e` ormpcs, er seactbacs wb`c, sfbppcn b` irea etfcr aerc vb`c-
irbc`ndy stmtcs. Hut tfcrc km` hc `e neuht ei tfc sb`kcrbty wbtf wfbkf se am`y
Macrbkm`s, wfcrcvcr tfcy dbvc, fmvc `ew cahrmkcn wb`c.^fbs heel bs m kcdchrmtbe` ei tfbs ncdbkbeus m`n ncdboftiud pfc`eac`e , m`n
ei gust few am`y Macrbkm`s fmvc ke`qucrcn m` mrcm ei cxpcrtbsc e`kc rcomrncn
ms qub`tcssc`tbmddy Curepcm`. _c fcmr m orcmt ncmd mheut tfc hbo-peb`ts-skercrs
irea Kmdbier`bms aest imaeus rcobe`s, hut tfmt bs e`dy e`c pmrt ei tfc b`spbrb`o
pmtkfwerl tfmt bs tfc stery ei Macrbkm` wb`c tenmy.
e pbkl gust m icw wb`cs tfmt cbtfcr mrc er sfeudn hc rcomrncn ms Macrbkm`
kdmssbks7 tfc hcst Kmhcr`cts m`n Herncmux hdc`ns irea Kmdbier`bm, _msfb`ote`,
Ybrob`bm, m`n De`o Bsdm`n< tfc `cst Zb`et @ebrs irea Zmkbk-keedcn Kmdbier`bm
m`n Ercoe`< suaptueus Kfmrne``mys irea mdd evcr tfc keu`try< suhtdc [yrmfm`n etfcr Xf`c ormpc vmrbctbcs irea cmstcr` _msfb`ote`< mnabrmhdy prckbsc
Xbcsdb`os irea @cw Rerls Ib`ocr Dmlcs m`n, b`krcmsb`ody, Abkfbom`. ^fcsc mrc
hcb`o geb`cn hy hrboft-irubtcn ^caprm`bdde irea ^cxms m`n seutfcr` Ercoe`>: b` =2?:m`n tfc heea fms hcc` fcmrn
mreu`n tfc werdn. Macrbkms hcst hettdcs mrc cvcry hbt ms oeen
ms tfc `cst wb`cs ei Curepc.
Mdtfeuof tfc S`btcn [tmtcs bs m rcdmtbvc tenndcr ms m
wb`camlb`o m`n wb`c-nrb`lb`o `mtbe`, fbttb`o bts strbnc b` tfc
abn-twc`tbctf kc`tury wfbdc bts Curepcm` keu`tcrpmrts fmvc
hcc` mt iudd sprb`t ier fu`nrcns ei ycmrs, tfc tbacdb`c ei tfbs
rcdmtbvcdy sfert c`edeobkmd ncvcdepac`t bs surprbsb`ody kea-
pdcx. ^fc ity stmtcs amy hc u`btcn ms m `mtbe`, hut wfc` btkeacs te wb`camlb`o fbstery, kudturc, m`n vbtbkudturc, cmkf
amy ms wcdd hc bts ew` keu`try.
Zcepdc wcrc amlb`o wb`c fcrc de`o hcierc tfc mtbe` cvc`
cxbstcn. Irc`kf Fuouc`ets hubdt hmscs b` Iderbnm b` tfc abn-
=3::s m`n prenukcn wb`c irea tfc `mtbvc [kuppcr`e`o ormpc
(m` mkqubrcn tmstc cvc` tenmy). Mreu`n =9:?, C`odbsf baab-
orm`ts scclb`o rcdbobeus irccnea dm`ncn e` tfc Cmstcr` scmhemrn
ei wfmt weudn hckeac Macrbkm. Mkkusteacn te nrb`lb`o wb`c
wbtf tfcbr acmds, tfc Zbdorbas wcrc pdcmscn te `n `mtbvc
ormpcvb`cs, Ybtbs dmhruskmm`n Ybtbs retu`nbiedbm, orewb`o wbdn b`
tfcbr `cw feac, hut tfcy wcrc nbsamycn te nbskevcr tfmt wfc`
icrac`tcn, tfcsc ormpcs amnc ausly, u`smvery wb`csIrc`kfkdmrcts tfcy wcrc `et.
[e tfc scttdcrs sc`t ier Ybtbs vb`bicrmkuttb`os irea Curepc
trmnbtbe`md vmrbctbcs sukf ms Kmhcr`ct [muvbo`e` m`n Xbcsdb`o
m`n pdm`tcn tfca b` tfc kedn, wct, m`n eitc` fuabn ke`nbtbe`s
ei tfcbr `cw feac. ^fcsc `ehdc vb`cs wcrc bdd subtcn te tfc
kdbamtc m`n sebds ei Ybrob`bm, Amrydm`n, @cw Rerl,
Amssmkfusctts, m`n etfcr cmrdy kede`bcs, m`n aest nbcn wbtfb`
m icw ycmrs ei pdm`tb`o.
Mreu`n tfc smac tbac, [pm`bsf abssbe`mrbcs hcom` aevb`o
`ertfwmrn irea Acxbke b`te @cw Acxbke m`n dmtcr b`te tfc
]ucc` ei tfc Abssbe`s
[m`tm Hmrhmrm, tfc tc`tf ei tfc twc`ty-e`c abssbe`s cstmhdbsfcn hy [pm`bsf ae`ls
b` Kmdbier`bm aerc tfm` twe fu`nrcn ycmrs moe, b`kduncs m vb`cymrn irea wfbkf tfc
abssbe`mrbcs prenukcn wb`c ier smkrmac`tmd purpescs.
E` tfc krewncn wb`c trmbd
^fc pepudmtbe` ei wb`crbcs b` seac rcobe`s fms hckeac se nc`sc tfmt vbsbters km` spc`n
m wccl b` e`c mrcm m`n stbdd et fmvc tbac te vbsbt mdd tfc tmstb`o reeas (eppesbtc).
M _loK Mo
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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| MACXBKM@ _B@CAMLB@O KEAC[ EI MOC8
tcrrbtery tfmt wms te hc l`ew` ms Kmdbier`bm. Hctwcc` =?92
m`n =68>, Irm`kbskm` ae`ls cstmhdbsfcn twc`ty-e`c abssbe`s b`
tfmt tcrrbtery, pdm`tb`o tfc Abssbe` ormpcs tfcy fmn hreuoft
wbtf tfca irea [pmb` te amlc wb`c ier keaau`be` purpescs.
Kmdbier`bms Acnbtcrrm`cm`-dblc kdbamtc prevcn ke`nukbvc te
sukkcssiud Abssbe` ormpc orewb`o m`n wb`camlb`o.
Cmst Kemst vb`t`crs, fewcvcr, ke`tb`ucn te hc ncstb`cn ier
imbdurc. ^feams Gciicrse`, tfc `mtbe`s rst sckrctmry ei stmtcm`n tfbrn prcsbnc`t, wms m orcmt mnabrcr m`n keddckter ei
Herncmux wb`cs. B` tfc abn- te dmtc-=?::s, fc mttcaptcn te orew
Curepcm` vmrbctbcs mt fbs Ae`tbkcdde cstmtc b` Ybrob`bm. Hut fc,
m`n etfcr Cmstcr` stmtcsac` wbtf krmvb`os ier kdmrct, imbdcn te
orew m`n vb`biy Kmhcr`ct [muvbo`e`, Acrdet, m`n Kmhcr`ct
Irm`k, vmrbctbcs tfmt wcrc tfc` u`subtcn te tfc Cmst Kemst
kdbamtc m`n sebds. B` Zc``sydvm`bm, Ocram` baaborm`ts wcrc
cxpcrbc`kb`o sbabdmr nbsmppeb`tac`ts wbtf Xbcsdb`o m`n
Ocwrztrmab`cr pdm`tb`os. fcrc Gmacs Mdcxm`ncr, cxmspcrmtcn
hy fbs vb`bicrm-hmscn wb`cs, ke`vcrtcn te tfc `mtbvc Ybtbs dmhruskm
b` tfc =?;:s. Etfcrs ieddewcn, demnb`o tfc wb`cs wbtf suomr te
eiisct tfc ausly mreams m`n mvers b`fcrc`t b` tfc ormpcs.^fc keu`trys rst keaacrkbmddy sukkcssiud wb`cry wms
cstmhdbsfcn b` Kb`kb``mtb, Efbe, b` tfc abn-=6::s hy hm`lcr
@bkfedms De`owertf. [pmrldb`o wb`cs amnc irea tfc mtbvc
Kmtmwhm ormpc wcrc fbs spckbmdty, m`n tfc wb`cs wcrc se
keapctc`tdy amnc tfmt tfcy hckmac pepudmr b` C`odm`n ms wcdd.
Hut b` tfc =69:s, nbscmsc nckbamtcn fbs vb`cs, m`n Efbe wb`c-
amlcrs skmttcrcn te @cw Rerl m`n Absseurb te hcob` momb`.
M rcmd tur` kmac b` =6>2, wfc` Btmdbm` m`n Irc`kf baab-
orm`ts hcom` te een @ertfcr` Kmdbier`bm te sccl tfcbr iertu`cs
b` oedn ab`b`o. M`n tfcy hcom` te kudtbvmtc wb`c ormpcs,
b`kdunb`o Wb`im`ncd m`n Kmrbo`m`c, b` tfc [bcrrm Ieetfbdds te
amlc wb`cs te sdmlc tfcbr Curepcm` tfbrst.
B` tfc =63:s m`n 9:s, Curepcm` vb`t`crs imkcn m krbppdb`o
krbsbs. Zfyddexcrm, m reet deusc tfmt smps tfc strc`otf irea vb`cs,
fmn amnc bts wmy b`te Curepc, aest dblcdy e` kuttb`os irea tfc
S`btcn [tmtcs, wfcrc mtbvc vb`cs tedcrmtcn tfc huo m`n tfescpdm`tcn e` [t. Oceroc reetsteklprbamrbdy Wb`im`ncd, Zctbtc
[brmf, m`n Kmrbo`m`cwcrc rcsbstm`t te bt. _fc` vb`cs irea
Macrbkm wcrc prepmomtcn b` Irm`kc, tfc keu`try tfmt weudn hc
fmrncst-fbt hy pfyddexcrm, tfc b`icstmtbe` cxpdencn, lbddb`o vb`cs
mt mdmrab`o rmtcs.
Mt tfc smac tbac, Macrbkm s wcrc b`krcmsb`o tfcbr pdm`tb`os
eiYbtbs vb`bicrm, usb`o kuttb`os bapertcn irea Curepc. ^fcsc
spckbcs wcrc et rcsbstm`t te pfyddexcrm, se tfcy, tee, hcom` te
nbc. ^fc rcacnyormitb`o Curepcm` vmrbctbcs e`te rcsbstm`t
Macrbkm` reetsteklsdewdy hreuoft tfc vb`cymrns hmkl te dbic.
(B` tfc =2?:s m`n 6:s m reetstekl hcdbcvcn te hc pfyddexcrm-
preei wms ncvcdepcn te prenukc dmroc ybcdns ei fbof-qumdbty
ormpcs ke`sbstc`tdy. Hut bt, b` imkt, prevcn suskcptbhdc te pfyddex-
crm, m`n Kmdbier`bm orewcrs wcrc ierkcn te rbp eut tfcbr vb`cs
m`n rcpdm`t wbtf etfcr reetstekls.)
_fbdc Kmdbier`bm m`n Curepc struoodcn, vb`cymrns b` tfc cmst,
pdm`tcn b` dmhruskm, ke`tb`ucn te tfrbvc, m`n rcscmrkfcrs rcmdbzcn
tfmt hy ormitb`o Irc`kf vb`bicrm e`te mtbvc dmhruskm reetstekl,
ormpc orewcrs keudn fmvc nbscmsc-rcsbstm`t vb`cs tfmt prenukcn
nrb`lmhdc wb`cs b` m aerc Curepcm` stydc. ^fcsc ormitcn vb`cs,
mdse pdm`tcn tfreuofeut Curepc, hckmac keaae` e` tfc Cmst
Kemst m`n b` tfc [eutfm fmppy acnbua hctwcc` nbscmsc-
pre`c vb`bicrm m`n tfc iu`ly wb`cs prenukcn irea dmhruskm._fc` tfc oedn rm` eut b` Kmdbier`bm b` tfc dmtc =63:s, tfc
ab`crs aevcn te [m` Irm`kbske, [e`eam, @mpm, Ac`nekb`e,
[eutfcr` Kmdbier`bm, m`n etfcr wmra mrcms, pdm`tb`o wb`c ormpcs
e` tfc scktbe`s ei tfcbr prepcrtbcs tfmt keudn `et sustmb` sukf
kreps ms teamtecs, pcppcrs, squmsfcs, erkfmrn irubts, m`n `uts.
^fcsc dmrocdy Btmdbm` m`n Irc`kf scttdcrs put wb`c ormpcs b`te
oreu`n tfmt weudn dmtcr hc nccacn ms fmddewcn hy wb`camlcrs.
^fc cxbstc`kc tenmy ei b`tc`sc, kfmrmktcriud edn-vb`c Kmdbier`bm
rcn wb`cs km` hc trmkcn te tfc baaborm`ts wfe pdm`tcn m`n tfc`
amb`tmb`cn tfesc rst vb`cs tfreuof Zrefbhbtbe` m`n hcye`n.
Ier tfc cxt icw nckmncs, tfc wb`c b`nustry b` tfc S`btcn [tmtcs
wms dmrocdy dekmd< `mtbe`mddy, b tcrcst b` wb`c m`n bts ke suaptbe`wms dbabtcn, m n tfesc wfe c geycn wb`c eitc` kfesc Curepcm`
hettdcs. fc mnvc`t ei Zrefbhbtbe` nbn`t fcdp amttcrs m`y.
Zrefbhbtbe` wms spurrcn hy m nckmncs-de`o tcapcrm`kc
aevcac`t, wfesc mnvekmtcs fcdn tfmt b`texbkmtbe` dcn te krbac,
nchmukfcry, m`n tfc rub`mtbe` ei sekbcty. ^fcbr b`btbmd kmdds ier
aencrmtbe` b` tfc ke`suaptbe` ei wb`c, hccr, m`n spbrbts cvedvcn
b`te ncam`ns ier m tetmd hm` e` tfc prenuktbe`, trm`spertmtbe`,
m`n smdc ei ncae` nrb`l, m`n tfcbr wbsfcs wcrc orm`tcn hy tfc
=2=2 rmtbkmtbe` ei tfc =6tf Mac`nac`t te tfc Ke`stbtutbe` m`n
tfc bapdcac`tmtbe` ei tfc dmw vbm tfc Yedstcmn Mkt b` =28:.
Absseurb wb`camlb`o
[te`c Fbdd bs tfc edncst wb`cry b` Absseurb, ieu`ncn b` =6>? hy Ocram`baaborm`ts, wfe wcrc amlb`o =.83 abddbe` omdde`s ei wb`c pcr ycmr hy =2::.
Mhm`ne`cn nurb`o Zrefbhbtbe`, tfc wb`cry wms rcstercn hy tfc Fcdn imabdy
b` =293 (Hctty m`n Gba Fcdn mrc sfew` fcrc), m`n tenmy bt bs e`c ei tfc stmtcs
aest bapertm`t prenukcrs.
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
14/26
^FC DCOMKR EI ZXEFBHB^BE@
MACXBKM@ _B@CAMLB@O KEAC[ EI MOC | ;
[b`kc Kede`bmd tbacs, Macrbkm fms fmn
tcapcrm`kc pcrbens, seac mtbe`md, etfcrs
dbabtcn te spckbk stmtcs er rcobe`s wbtfb`
stmtcs. Ymrbeus oevcr`ac`t, rcdbobeus, m`n
puhdbk fcmdtf dcmncrs fmvc vebkcn tfcbrke`kcr`s mheut tfc ciickts ei mdkefed e`
tfc pepudmkc, vbcwb`o sukf nrb`ls ms tfrcmts
te pfysbkmd m`n spbrbtumd fcmdtf.
_fc` Zrefbhbtbe` hcom` b` =28:,
mpprexbamtcdy e`c-fmdi ei tfc stmtcs mdrcmny
fmn dmws prefbhbtb`o er dbabtb`o mdkefed
am`uimkturc. Spe` Xcpcmd b` =2;;, scvcrmd
ei tfesc stmtcs ke`tb`ucn te hm` heezc
seac u`tbd ms dmtc ms =299, wfc` imra
wb`cry mkts hcom` te hc put b`te pdmkc,
orm`tb`o imracrs tfc rboft te prenukc m`n
scdd wb`cs amnc irea tfcbr ew` kreps. @et
e`dy fmn mdkefed ke`suaptbe` hckeac dcss
ehgcktbe`mhdc b` tfcsc strmoodcr stmtcs
(aest ei tfca b` tfc Abnwcst m`n [eutf),
morbkudturmd cke`eabks wcrc mdse mt pdmy,
wbtf stmtc eikbmds sccb`o mnnbtbe`md
rcvc`ucs irea wb`c cxkbsc m`n smdcs tmxcs,
ms wcdd ms tfc ae`cy te hc amnc irea
wb`c-hmscn teurbsa.
Lm`sms wms tfc rst stmtc te mktbvcdy
prefbhbt mdkefedbk hcvcrmoc prenuktbe`, b`
=66= (mt tfc tbac, Amb`c fmn sukf m dmwe` bts heels, hut rmrcdy c`ierkcn bt). Lm`sms
nbn`t c`n bts stmtc prefbhbtbe` u`tbd =2>62 Oedn Xusf, m`n hckmusc tfc vb`cs wcrc e` pfyddexcrm-
rcsbstm`t reetstekl, am`y fmvc survbvcn te tfbs nmy.
Mdse7 _FB^COcwrztrmab`cr, Amrsm``c, Auskmt, Zb`et Hdm`k,
Xeussm``c, Ybeo`bcr< XCNMdbkm`tc Heuskfct, Hmrhcrm, Kmrbo`m`c,
Orc`mkfc, Amdhck, Aeurvnrc, Zctbtc [brmf, Zctbt Ycrnet, [m`obevcsc,
^caprm`bdde (scc hex p. =3?).
@mtbvc Macrbkm` vmrbctbcs^fc Ybtbs dmhruskm m`n Ybtbs retu`nbiedbm vb`c spckbcs tfmt cmrdy scttdcrs
ieu`n orewb`o wbdn e` tfc Cmst Kemst nbn`t prenukc pmrtbkudmrdy
pmdmtmhdc wb`cs. Ymrbctbcs ei tfcsc spckbcs mrc `ew orew` ier gubkc,
gmas, m`n gcddbcs, hut b` slbddcn fm`ns tfcy km` hc trm`sieracn b`te
rcwmrnb`o wb`cs.
Ke`kernOrmpcy m`n sbapdc, tfbs purpdc dmhruskm vmrbcty bs prbamrbdy
uscn te amlc gubkcs, gmas, gcddbcs, m`n tfc pepudmr lesfcr wb`c
Am`bskfcwbtz. Abkfbom`, Zc``sydvm`bm, m`n @cw Rerl mrc tfc amger
orewcrs ei Ke`kern, wbtf aukf ei tfcbr prenuktbe` oeb`o te _cdkfs.
Auskmnb`c^fbs oreup eiYbtbs retu`nbiedbm b`kduncs tfc spckbk
vmrbctbcs Kmrdes m`n [kuppcr`e`o ier wfbtc wb`cs, m`n @ehdc ier
rcns. Auskmnb`cs fmvc m fbof tedcrm`kc ier tfc fuabnbty m`n iu`omd
nbscmscs typbkmd b` tfc [eutfb` Iderbnm, Lc`tukly, @ertf Kmredb`m,
m`n Abssbssbppb, te mac tfc aest preab`c`t stmtcsm`n prenukc
aestdy swcct, vbskeus wb`cs tfmt fmvc m km`nbcn-irubt, ausly mream.
@bmomrmMs Ke`kerns wfbtc dmhruskm keu`tcrpmrt, @bmomrm fmsm sbabdmr iexy, ausly kfmrmktcr tfmt tmstcs iercbo` te tfesc
mkkusteacn te vb`bicrm wb`cs. Zrenuktbe` bs kc`tcrcn dmrocdy b` @cw
Rerl [tmtc, wfcrc tfc wb`cs mrc amnc b` scabswcct m`n swcct stydcs.
@erte`m.l.m. Ky`tfbm`m, tfbs mtbvc Ybtbs mcstbvmdbs ormpc prenukcs
m iudd-henbcn, spbky rcn wb`c. @erte` bs tedcrm`t ei fuabnbty m`n
bs tfus wbncdy kudtbvmtcn b` Absseurb m`n Ybrob`bm, wbtf peklcts ei
pdm`tb`os b` tfc Abnwcst m`n cxms. Mdtfeuof bts m mtbvc spckbcs,
@erte`/Ky`tfbm m dmkls tfc ausly, iexy mream ei etfcr mtbvc
vmrbctbcs, m`n bs kmpmhdc ei amlb`o fbof-qumdbty, nry rcn wb`cs.
Mdse7 Kmtmwhm (rcn).
Fyhrbn vmrbctbcsIrc`kf-Macrbkm` fyhrbns mrc oc`ctbk kresscs eiYbtbs vb`bicrm m`n
`mtbvc Macrbkm` spckbcs amnc hy Irc`kf hrccncrs. Aerc rckc`tdy,
Macrbkm` fyhrbns fmvc hcc` ncvcdepcn hy tfc S`bvcrsbty ei Ab``c-
setm m`n @cw Rerls Ker`cdd S`bvcrsbty, b`tc`ncn te fmvc m fbofcr
tedcrm`kc ier fmrsf wb`tcr ke`nbtbe`s tfm` Irc`kf-Macrbkm` fyhrbns.
_FB^C[
Hrbm``m^fbs rcdmtbvcdy cw (b`trenukcn b` 8::=), kedn-tedcrm`t
vmrbcty fms qubkldy hckeac m stm`neut wfbtc-wb`c ormpc b` tfc
Abnwcst, pmrtbkudmrdy b` Bewm, Ab``csetm, m`n @chrmslm. Hrbm``m
km` hc prenukcn b` eii-nry m`n scabswcct stydcs, m`n nbspdmys rbkf,
cxetbk pb`cmppdc, am`oe, m`n pmpmym mvers tfmt mrc hmdm`kcn hy
hrbsl mkbnbty. Cxpckt aerc irbobn rcobe`s te cahrmkc Hrbm``m, ms
`cws ei bts petc`tbmd sprcmns.
(ke`tb`ucn)
@erte`
@bmomrm
-
7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
19/26
OXMZC YMXBC^BC[ OXE_@ B@ ^FC S@B^CN [^M^C[ (ke`tb`ucn)
| MACXBKM@ _B@CAMLB@O KEAC[ EI MOC6
Dm Krcskc`tZrenukb`o wfbtc wb`cs rcab`bskc`t ei ermd
Xbcsdb`os, tfbs vb`bicrm fyhrbn wms hrcn mt tfc S`bvcrsbty ei
Ab``csetm te wbtfstm`n -;3I wb`tcr tcapcrmturcs, m`n bs m
pepudmr kfebkc ier orewcrs b` tfc irbobn Abnwcst m`n Orcmt Dmlcs
rcobe`s.
[cyvmd^fbs Irc`kf-Macrbkm fyhrbn prenukcs nry m`n scabnry,
acnbua-henbcn wfbtcs tfmt km` fmvc m` fcrhmd mkkc`t. Bts m
pepudmr ormpc b` @cw Rerl m`n Absseurb.
^rmab`cttcM wfbtc vmrbcty hrcn te wbtfstm`n fmrsf wb`tcrs,
^rmab`cttc fms tfc ermd m`n spbkc kfmrmktcr ei e`c ei bts pmrc`ts,
Ocwrztrmab`cr. Bt fms hckeac e`c ei Abkfbom s hcst wfbtc-wb`c
vmrbctbcs, m`n B`nbm`m prenukcrs krcmtcn m ^ry e` rmab`cttc
kmapmbo` te preaetc tfc wb`c te ke`suacrs.
Ybnmd Hdm`kM kedn-fmrny Irc`kf-Macrbkm` fyhrbn, bt amlcs
iudd-henbcn, irubty, m`n ermd wfbtcs, m`n bs mdse cxkcddc`t ier bkc
wb`c. @cw Rerls Ib`ocr Dmlcs rcobe` bs tfc fuh ier Ybnmd Hdm`k
prenuktbe`, wbtf samdd veduacs mdse prenukcn b` Absseurb, Efbe,
m`n Zc``sydvm`bm.
Ybo`edcs^fbs kedn-fmrny Irc`kf-Macrbkm` fyhrbn bs sbabdmr te
Ybnmd Hdm`k b` bts kfmrmktcr m`n orewb`o rcobe`s.
XCN[
Kfmaheurkb`^fbs Irc`kf-Macrbkm` fyhrbn prenukcs wb`cs wbtf
hrboft rcn-irubt mvers, fcrhmkceus mreams, ra tm``b`s, m`n krbsp
mkbnbty. _fbdc bt necs`t tedcrmtc tfc fmrsf wb`tcr tcapcrmturcs
ei tfc Orcmt Dmlcs rcobe`, bt bs cspckbmddy subtcn te tfc dcss-
kfmddc`ob o kdbamtcs ei Bddb`ebs, B`nbm`m, Efbe, m`n Zc``sydvm`bm.
Ire`tc`mk^fbs S`bvcrsbty ei Ab``csetm fyhrbn amlcs rehust
rcn wb`cs wbtf pmdmtc-rcircsfb`o mkbnbty. fc vb`cs wbtfstm`n-;:I tcapcrmturcs b` wb`tcr m`n cacroc b` sprb`o te puap eut
ormpcs wbtf dbvcdy kfcrry m`n hcrry kfmrmktcr. Ire`tc`mk fms qubkldy
hckeac m supcrstmr ormpc b` tfc Abnwcst m`n @cw C`odm`n.
Amrckfmd IekfM nmrl-slb``cn Irc`kf-Macrbkm` fyhrbn, Iekf
amlcs acnbua-henbcn wb`cs wbtf hdmkl kfcrry mvers, m`n mdse
mveriud ress. Zepudmr wbtf Abnwcst wb`camlcrs, bt km` fm`ndc
kedn wb`tcrs, yct bs`t ms kedn-fmrny ms Ire`tc`mk m`n Amrqucttc.
AmrqucttcZepudmr wbtf orewcrs b` tfc Abnwcst m`n @cw
C`odm`n, tfbs fyhrbn bs sbabdmr te Ire`tc`mk.
Mdse7 _FB^CHdm`k nu Hebs, Hrbm``m, Kmyuom _fbtc, Kfmrne`cd,
Cncdwcbss, Dm Kressc, Acdeny, [t. Zcpb`, [tevcr, Ymdvb` Auskmt::
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Mtdm`tm
Lm`sms
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[m` Irm`kbske
Des M`ocdcs
[m` Nbcoe
Zertdm`n
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Huiimde
@cw Rerl
Kdcvcdm`n
Kb`kb``mtb
NctrebtKfbkmoe
[t Deubs
Acapfbs
[cmttdc
@cw Erdcm`s
Nmddms
Abmab
[mdt Dmlc Kbty
Eldmfeam Kbty
Keduahus
Ae`toeacry
B`nbm`mpedbs
Edyapbm
[mdca
[mkrmac`te Kfcyc``c
Mustb`
Db`ked`
[t Zmud
^epclm
Ncs Aeb`cs
Ae`tpcdbcr
Mdhm`y
Dm`sb`o
Kfmrdcste`
Hmte`Xeuoc
@msfvbddc
^rc`te`
M``mpedbs
_msfb`ote`,N.K.
Ab``cmpedbs
Kmrse` Kbty
Zfec`bx
Fe`edudu
Gu`cmu
Nc`vcr
[m`tm Ic
Zbcrrc
Fcdc`m
Hebsc
Hbsamrkl
Ke`kern
Amnbse`
[prb`oibcdnIrm`liert Xbkfae`n
Xmdcbof
Fmrrbshuro
^mddmfmsscc
Gmklse`
DbttdcXekl
Keduahbm
Gciicrse`Kbty
Heste`
Zrevbnc`
Nevcr
Fmrtiern
Muoustm
_M[FB@O^E@
AE@^M@M
_REAB@O
[ES^F NMLE^M
@EX^F NMLE^M
@CHXM[LM
LM@[M[
ELDMFEAM
@C_ ACVBKE
MXBWE@M
@CYMNM
BNMFE
AMB@C
Y^ @F
AM
ZC@@[RDYM@BM
@EX^FKMXEDB@M
[ES^F KMXEDB@M
OCEXOBM
IDEXBNM
MDMHMAMAB[[B[[BZZB
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^C@@C[[CC
LC@^SKLR
BE_M
BDDB@EB[ B@NBM@M
KEDEXMNE
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AB@@C[E^M
_B[KE@[B@ ABKFBOM@
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ACVBKE
Keu`try heu`nmry
[tmtc heu`nmry
[tmtc kmpbtmd
Mkrcs ei vb`cymrn pcr stmtc
@uahcr ei wb`crbcs pcr stmtc, 8:=8
=,8::
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Zfec`bx
=78>,:::,:::
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@
MACXBKM@ _B@CAMLB@O KEAC[ EI MOC | =
tfc hcst kde`cs ier tfcbr orewb`o ke`nbtbe`s, m`n wb`camlcrs km`
twcml qumdbty m`n b`krcmsc keapdcxbty b` tfcbr wb`cs.
Fewcvcr, tfcrc bs d bttdc neuht tfmt ke`trmhm`n kuttb`os
fcdpcn cstmhdbsf seac ei Macrbkms orcmtcst vb`cymrns. ^mdcsmrc rbic ei vb`t`crs tuklb`o vb`c kuttb`os irea Herncmux m`n
Hurou`ny b`te tfcbr hexcr sferts er subtkmscs m`n hrb`ob`o
tfca b`te tfc S`btcn [tmtcs bddcomddy, kbrkuavc`tb`o vc-ycmr
qumrm`tb`cs e` iercbo` pdm`t amtcrbmd, b` pdmkc te prcvc`t tfc
b`trenuktbe` ei nbscmscn vb`cs m`n etfcr pdm`ts b`te tfc
keu`try. ([ukf bddbkbt ciierts mrc dmrocdy bapessbhdc tenmy
hckmusc ei tfc b`tc`sc skrutb`y pmssc`ocrs m`n tfcbr hmos
oct mt mbrperts.)
Ackfm`bkmd fmrvcstb`o, pru`b`o, m`n km`epy am`mocac`t
fmvc hcc` b`trenukcn b` mrcms wfcrc fm`ns-e` dmher bs u`mvmbd-mhdc er u`miiernmhdc. Ybtbkudturbsts ke`tb`uc te dcmr` aerc
mheut few aukf wmtcr tfcbr vb`cs `ccn, m`n wfc` tfcy `ccn bt.
Xcscmrkf bs e`oeb`o b` sukf mrcms ms trcddbsb`o m`n km`epy
am`mocac`t, krep demn, pru`b`o, m`n kevcr krep retmtbe`s, mdd
pmrt ei few vb`cymrn prmktbkcs mrc ke`stm`tdy hcb`o mnmptcn te
baprevc wb`c qumdbty.
M`n aeac`tua bs hubdnb`o ier tfc prmktbkc ei sustmb`mhdc
wb`corewb`o, wfbkf b kduncs erom`bk m`n hbeny`mabk actfens.
Hy rcpdmkb`o sy`tfctbk pcstbkbncs, fcrhbkbncs, m`n icrtbdbzcrs wbtf
`mturmd mdtcr`mtbvcs, orewcrs m`n vb`t`crs mrc hcb`o lb`ncr te tfc
S`btcn [tmtcs ei Macrbkm^fc amp sfews tfc rcdmtbvc cxtc`t ei ormpc orewb`o m`n
wb`c prenuktbe` ms ei 8:=8. Yb`cymrn mkrcmoc bs obvc` ier
stmtcs wbtf sbo`bkm`t pdm`tb`os.
@cw Rerl [tmtc Bkc _b`c
Irbobn wcmtfcr ke`nbtbe`s b` upstmtc @cw Rerl b` dmtc imdd mddew Dce`mrn Emlcs Cstmtc
_b`cry, b` tfc @bmomrm Cskmrpac`t MYM, te fmrvcst Ybnmd Hdm`k mitcr tfc ormpcs fmvc
irezc` e` tfc vb`cs. fc irezc` ormpcs wbdd hc prcsscn te amlc bkc wb`c.
-
7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
23/26
| MACXBKM@ _B@CAMLB@O KEAC[ EI MOC=8
dm`n m`n tfcbr `cbofhers. [eac mrc crcktb`o ewd hexcs m`n
rmpter pcrkfcs te fest b`sckt- m`n oepfcr-fu`ory hbrns. Kevcr
kreps prcvc`t sebd cresbe` m`n fest hc`ckbmd b`sckts. [fccp
ormzb`o e` wccns hctwcc` vb`c rews cdbab`mtc tfc `ccn ier
kfcabkmd fcrhbkbncs. Keapest rcpdmkcs fmrsf icrtbdbzcrs. _fbdc
tfc kdbamtc b` seac rcobe`s dbabts orewcrs b` tfcbr rcspe`sc teiu`omd nbscmsc, tfc trc`n mkress tfc keu`try bs te fmvc ms dbttdc
kfcabkmd bapmkt e` tfc dm`n ms pessbhdc.
Hy imr tfc aest dmunmhdc ncvcdepac`t bs tfc mkl`ewdcnoac t
hy orewcrs m`n wb`camlcrs tfmt kcrtmb` ormpc vmrbctbcs ne wcdd
b` seac pdmkcs hut mrc u`subtcn te etfcrs. Cvcrye`c wm`ts te
prenukc Kmhcr`ct [muvbo`e` m`n/er Zb`et @ebr, Irm`kcs aest
bapertm`t wb`cs, hut icw rcobe`s fcrc fmvc tfc sebd m`n kdbamtc
te suppert tfcsc ormpcs. Am`y fmvc dcmr`cn tfbs tfc fmrn wmy
pcrkc`t mhv er dcss, ^^H mddews tfc pcrkc`tmoc stmtcn te vmry hy ms
aukf ms =.3 pcrkc`t irea tfc mktumd mdkefed ke`tc`t. ^fus, m wb`c
dmhcdcn Mdkefed =8.3 pcrkc`t hy veduac km` fmvc m` mktumd mdkefed
ke`tc`t ei ms dbttdc ms == pcrkc`t er ms aukf ms => pcrkc`t. _b`cs mt
=>.= pcrkc`t m`n mhevc fmvc m dmhcd tedcrm`kc ei = pcrkc`t.
Fewcvcr, e`kc m wb`c rcmkfcs =>.= pcrkc`t mktumd mdkefed, tfc dmhcd
vmrbm`kc km` e`dy oe up< bt km``et oe new`. ^fmt acm`s tfmt m wb`c
wbtf =>.3 pcrkc`t mhv km``et hc dmhcdcn =;.3 pcrkc`t, hut bt km`
mktumddy hc ms fbof ms =3.3 pcrkc`t.
B` 8::=, ^^H hcom` tfc dc`otfy prekcss ei upnmtb`o btsrudcamlb`o rcomrnb`o mpprevcn wb`c ormpc vmrbctmd `macs ier
S.[. wb`cs. Mt tfc tbac, ity-vc vmrbctbcs wcrc mpprevcn ier
usc e` dmhcds< am`y etfcrs wbdd dblcdy hc mnncn ms prenukcrs
cxpcrbac`t wbtf m orewb`o `uahcr ei ormpc typcs b` m` mttcapt
te amtkf vmrbctbcs wbtf tfcbr sebd m`n kdbamtbk ke`nbtbe`s. _fe
weudn fmvc tfeuoft tc` ycmrs moe tfmt Kmdbier`bm weudn prenukc
Or`cr Ycdtdb`cr5
^^H fms mdse seuoft aerc prckbsc nc`btbe`s ier sukf tcras ms
Cstmtc Hettdcn, Xcscrvc, Hmrrcd [cdckt, m`n Edn Yb`c mae`o
etfcrs, wfbkf fmvc trmnbtbe`mddy hcc` amrlctb`o tcras wbtf dbttdc
dcomd kdeut. E`c orewcrs edn vb`cs amy hc e`dy tc` ycmrs edn
(tfeuof tfcy mrc edncr tfm` tfc vb`cs fc pdm`tcn vc ycmrs moe).
Bts cmsy te `n $> hettdcs ei wb`c wbtf Xcscrvc b` tfc hrm`n `mac,
amlb`o tfc tcra acm`b`odcss. ^H fms krmklcn new` b` rckc`t
ycmrs e` tfc usc ei wb`c `macs herrewcn irea Curepcm` wb`c
rcobe`s. S.[. wb`camlcrs wfe wm`t te dmhcd tfcbr iertbcn rcn wb`cs
ms Zert km` `e de`ocr ne se u`dcss tfcy wcrc orm`nimtfcrcn b`
hcierc tfc cw rcoudmtbe` hckmac eikbmd. Hurou`ny, Kfmhdbs,
[fcrry, Kfmapmo`c, m`n etfcr tcras mrc prefbhbtcn irea usc
u`dcss wb`crbcs fmvc m de`o fbstery ei usb`o tfcsc tcras. Lerhcds
Kmdbier`bm Kfmapmo c wbdd ke`tb`uc te dbvc m de`o dbic, cvc`
tfeuof `e wb`c ke``ebsscur weudn cvcr ke`iusc Lerhcd wbtf Lruo.
[b`kc =26?, Ke`tmb`s [udtcs dmhcds fmvc hcc` rcqubrcn e`
mdkefedbk hcvcrmocs ke`tmb`b`o mt dcmst =: pmrts pcr abddbe` ei
sudtcs, wfbkf mrc uscn ms prcscrvmtbvcs. B` =262, tfc oevcr`ac`t
hcom` rcqubrb`o mdd wb`c hettdcs te b`kdunc tfbs stmtcac`t, b`
kmpbtmd dcttcrs7
OEYCX@AC@^ _MX@B@O7
(=) MKKEXNB@O E FC [SXOCE@ OC@CXMD, _EAC@ [FESDN
@E^ NXB@L MDKEFEDBK HCYCXMOC[ NSXB@O ZXCO@M@KR HCKMS[C
EI ^FC XB[L EI HBX^F NCICK^[.
(8) KE@[SAZ^BE@ EI MDKEFEDBK HCYCXMOC[ BAZMBX[ RESX
MHBDB^R ^E NXBYC M KMX EX EZCXM^C AMKFB@CXR, M@N AMR KMS[C
FCMD^F ZXEHDCA[.
^fcrc bs tmdl wbtfb` tfc S.[. Ieen m`n Nruo Mnab`bstrmtbe` tfmt
wb`cs sfeudn fmvc twe mnnbtbe`md dmhcds hcye`n wfmt bs mdrcmny
rcqubrcn7 ier b`orcnbc`ts (ycmst, coo wfbtcs uscn ier `b`o, ctk.) m`n
`utrbtbe`md ke`tc`t (kmderbcs, kmrhefynrmtcs, ctk.), se tfmt
ke`suacrs l`ew cxmktdy wfmt tfcyrc octtb`o. Ycom`s m`n tfesc
wbtf kcrtmb` mddcrobcs aboft wm`t te l`ew bi coo wfbtcs er bsb`odmss
(sf hdmnncr) wcrc uscn te dtcr m wb`c, ier cxmapdc.
[ukf rcoudmtbe`s fmvc `et yct hcc` put b`te pdmkc, hut b` 8::2,
rc`comnc Xm`nmdd Ormfa, preprbcter ei He``y Nee` Yb`cymrn b` tfc
[m`tm Kruz Aeu`tmb`s ei Kmdbier`bm, hcom` dbstb`o tfc b`orcnbc`ts ei
fbs wb`cs e` tfc hmkl dmhcds. Ormfa mdse nctmbds tfc maeu`t ei
sudiur nbexbnc ([E8) uscn mt hettdb`o ier ke`suacrs ke`kcr`cn
mheut bts usc. ^fcsc mrc `ehdc ocsturcs te hc surc, hut Ormfa bs mdse
twcmlb`o tfc `escs ei tfesc wfe sct wb`c dmhcd pedbky, hy prevbnb`o
b`ieramtbe` vedu`tmrbdy hcierc tfc oevcr`ac`t tcdds fba fc aust.
M fm`niud ei etfcr prenukcrs fmvc ieddewcn fbs dcmn, mae`o tfca
[fb`` Cstmtc e` De`o Bsdm`n.
He``y Nee` dmhcd
Zreprbcter Xm`nmdd Ormfa b`kduncs mapdc b`ieramtbe` e` fbs dmhcds,
spckbiyb`o et e`dy tfc pdm`ct tfc ormpcs wcrc orew` e` hut mdse
tckf`bkmd b`ieramtbe`, sukf ms cxmkt wb`camlb`o b`orcnbc`ts, tfmt
aest etfcr wb`crbcs ne`t prevbnc.
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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| MACXBKM@ _B@CAMLB@O KEAC[ EI MOC=>
[ukf runbac`tmry tckf`bqucs mrc de`o oe`c, rcpdmkcn hy
actfens tfmt mppdy skbc`kc m`n tckf`edeoy te tfc vb`eus obits
`mturc prevbncs. Mae o rckc`t trc`ns7 _fbtc ormpcs mrc `e
de`ocr krusfcn, tfcyrc oc`tdy prcsscn (seac rcn ormpcs mrc tee)
se tfmt tfc slb`s m`n sccns bapmrt ms dbttdc fmrsf`css ms pessbhdc.
Hcierc tfc ormpcs rcmkf tfc prcss er krusfcr, tfcy mrc actbku-deusdy sertcn, ackfm`bkmddy m`n/er hy fm`n, te rcaevc u`rbpc
hcrrbcs m`n sfrbvcdcn rmbsb`s.
E`kc tfc ormpcs mrc krusfcn er prcsscn, tfc rcsudtb`o ormpc
aust bs b`ekudmtcn wbtf spckbmd ycmsts er mddewcn te icrac`t e` bts
ew` wbtf tfc mtbvc ycmsts prcsc`t e` tfc ormpcs m`n b` tfc wb`cry.
^feuof rcn wb`cs acm`t ier de o-tcra kcddmrb o `ccn tm``bk
strukturc, tfc tm``b`s sfeudn hc b`tcormtcn wbtf tfc b`tc`sbty ei
tfc irubt m`n tfc `mturmd mkbnbty b` tfc ormpcs. ^fc tm``b` dcvcd km`
hc ke`treddcn hy mngustb`o cdcac`ts ei tfc amkcrmtbe`semlb`o
tfc gubkc wbtf tfc slb`s m`n seactbacs stcas hcierc m`n/er mitcr
icrac`tmtbe`. B` seac rcobe`s, bts dcomd te mnn mkbn nurb`o
wb`camlb`o< b` etfcrs, bts prefbhbtcn. ^fc smac bs truc ier tfc
tckf`bquc ei mnnb`o suomr nurb`o icrac`tmtbe`, kmddcn kfmptmdbzm-
tbe`, wfbkf km` b`krcmsc m wb`cs mdkefed ke`tc`t m`n heny. B`
Kmdbier`bm, bts bddcomd< b` Ercoe`, bts mkkcptmhdc.
Irc`kf eml hmrrcds ier tfc icrac`tmtbe` m`n mob`o ei wb`c,
wfbkf kest upwmrn ei $=,::: cmkf ncpc nb`o e` tfc cxkfm`oc
rmtc, mrc imhudeus ier kcrtmb` wb`cs, obvb`o tfca temst m`n vm`bddm
mreams m`n mvers m`n dmycrcn tcxturc. Macrbkm` eml hmrrcds
irea Absseurb, Ab``csetm, m`n etfcr stmtcs kest fmdi ms aukf
m`n mrc usciud ier wb`cs ier wfbkf tfc wb`camlcr ncsbrcs
stre`ocr kfmrmktcrbstbks, sukf ms nbdd er keke`ut. B``cr stmvcs,
kfbps, tcm hmos, m`n etfcr eml prenukts mrc mvmbdmhdc te tfescwfe km`t miiern eml hmrrcds er wfe amlc b`cxpc`sbvc wb`cs ier
wfbkf hmrrcds mrc eut ei tfc `m`kbmd qucstbe`.
Abkre-exyoc mtbe` (huhhdb`o mbr b`te wb`c) bs m trbkl te
trm`siera fbof-tm``b` wb`cs b`te seitcr, aerc mkkcssbhdc e`cs
tfmt km` hc c`geycn tfc nmy tfcyrc purkfmscn. Ibdtrmtbe`,
rcvcrsc esaesbs, m`n spb``b`o-ke`c tckf`edeoy km` dewcr tfc
mdkefed ke`tc`t b` wb`cs, rcaevc wbdnrc saelc tmb`t, m`n
rcnukc vedmtbdc mkbnbty.
Rct ier mdd tfbs `cw tckf edeoy, tfc aest mkkeapdbsfcn
wb`camlcrs prcicr te usc ms dbttdc ei bt ms pessbhdc. Hy seurkb`o
fbof-qumdbty ormpcs, pbklb`o tfca mt bncmd rbpc`css, fm`ndb`o
tfca kmrciuddy, icrac`tb`o m`n/er mob`o tfc wb`c b` tfc mppre-prbmtc vcsscds (eitc` wbtf mahbc`t, rmtfcr tfm` keaacrkbmd,
ycmsts), m`n lccpb`o m ke`stm`t wmtkf b` tfc kcddmr, tfcy smvc
ae`cym`n krcmtc m `cr, aerc mturmd wb`c.
Eur Devc Miimbr wbtf _b`cMacrbkm fms hckeac m `mtbe` ei wb`c nrb`lcrs. B` 8:==, bt
aevcn mfcmn ei Btmdy m`n Irm`kc te hckeac tfc @e. = wb`c-
ke`suab`o keu`try, purkfmsb`o ;==.; abddbe` =8-hettdc kmscs
(tfc cqubvmdc`t ei ;.?;3 hbddbe` hettdcs) tfmt ycmr, mkkernb`o te m
rcpert irea Yb`Cxpe/B`tcr`mtbe`md _b`c & [pbrbt Xcscmrkf.
^fc rcpert mdse prcnbktcn tfmt S.[. wb`c ke`suaptbe` weudn
b`krcmsc =: pcrkc`t hctwcc` 8:== m`n 8:=3.
B` tfc dmst twe nckmncs er se, wb`c fms aevcn irea tfc
irb`ocs ei Macrbkm` kudturctfc nrb`l ei cdbtcs m`n baab-
orm`tste tfc kc`tcr ei tfc tmhdc. Hcttcr amrlctb`o m`n wbncrmvmbdmhbdbty fms seactfb`o te ne wbtf bt7 Odehmdbzmtbe` fms hcc`
m irbc`n te tfc ieen m`n wb`c b`nustry, wfcttb`o Macrbkm`
mppctbtcs ier `cw tmstcs. Hut se necs baprevcac`t b`
Macrbkm` wb`camlb`o. B` mnnbt be`, nbskeu`t rctmbdcrs fmvc
cxpm`ncn tfcbr scdcktbe`s, amlb`o `c wb`c wbtfb` rcmkf ei
aerc pcepdc, m`n fu`nrcns ei B`tcr`ct wb`c hdeoocrs fmvc
sprcmn tfcbr l`ewdcnoc m`n pmssbe`.
^fc S`btcn [tmtcs fms mdse hckeac m `mtbe` ei wb`c-
amlcrstfc werdns ieurtf-dmrocst wb`c prenukcr, trmbdb`o
e`dy Irm`kc, Btmdy, m`n [pmb`. Kmdbier`bm wms e`kc tfc e`dy stmtc
b` tfc omac, hut b` 8::8, Zeb`tc ei Ybcw _b`cry wms cstmh-
dbsfcn b` @ertf Nmletm, bts rst keaacrkbmd wb`cry, amlb`o
tfmt stmtc tfc itbctf te kdbah mhemrn tfc keu`trys imst-aevb`o
wb`c prenuktbe` trmb`. Mkkernb`o te _b`csYb`csNM^M, tfcrc
wcrc ?,;>3 wb`crbcs b` Macrbkm b` 8:=8, m` b`krcmsc ei >3:
irea tfc prcvbeus ycmr< b` =2?:, gust >>: wb`crbcs krusfcn
ormpcs b` tfbs keu`try.
Zrenuktbe` fms semrcn b` rcobe`s eutsbnc tfc trmnbtbe`md
Kmdbier`bm-Ercoe`-_msfb`ote` trbuavbrmtc, tfm`ls b` pmrt
te tfc mvmbdmhbdbty ei fyhrbn ormpc vmrbctbcs ncvcdepcn te
wbtfstm`n kedn tcapcrmturcs, fuabn ke`nbtbe`s, m`n/er kcr tmb`
pdm`t nbscmscs m`n pcsts. Cvcry ycmr, cw wb`corewb`o mrcms
mrc hcb`o nbskevcrcn hy vb`cymrnbsts m`n wb`camlcrs wfeu`ncrstm`n tfmt pdm`tb`o spckbk vmrbctbcs b` spckbk pdmkcs
km` dcmn te qumdbty wb`cs. Reu`o amvcrbkl wb`camlcrs wbtfeut
nccp peklcts km` c`tcr tfc husb`css hy purkfmsb`o ormpcs
m`n prekcssb`o tfca mt kustea-krusf wb`crbcs er ke-eps,
wfcrc tfcy km` dcmsc spmkc m`n cqubpac`t. [ukf imkbdbtbcs
fmvc mdse obvc` rbsc te samdd-skmdc wb`crbcs dekmtcn b` tfc
kc`tcrs ei hbo kbtbcs.
@mtbe`mddy, scvcrmd amger wb`c m`n ieen icstbvmds nrmw
tfeusm`ns ei wb`c m`n ieen devcrs te tmstb`os, scab`mrs,
m`n wb`camlcr nb``crsmae`o tfca tfc Ieen & _b`c
Kdmssbk b` Mspc`, Kedermne< tfc [u` Ymddcy Kc`tcr ier tfc
Mrts _b`c Muktbe` b` Bnmfe< m`n tfc @mpdcs (Iderbnm)_b`tcr _b`c Icstbvmd.
_b`c teurbsa bs heeab`o, m`n `et gust b` @mpm, [e`eam,
_bddmacttc Ymddcy, m`n _mddm _mddm. _b`crbcs tfreuofeut tfc
S`btcn [tmtcs nrmw vbsbters ier tfc kfm`kc te tmstc tfcbr wb`cs,
ms wcdd ms ier vb`cymrn m`n kcddmr teurs.
Bapertm`t kfm`ocs b` tfc dmw fmvc mdse amnc huyb`o wb`c
cmsbcr. M oreu`nhrcmlb`o S.[. [uprcac Keurt nckbsbe` b`
8::3, Orm`feda v. Fcmdn, strukl new` dmws b` Abkfbom` m`n
@cw Rerl [tmtc tfmt amnc bt m krbac ier eut-ei-stmtc prenuk-
crs te sfbp wb`c te ke`suacrs b` tfesc twe stmtcs wfbdc
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7/27/2019 American Wine: The Ultimate Companion to the Wines and Wineries of the United Statesby Jancis Robinson and Li
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M @E^C E@ ESX [@MZ[FE^[
pcrabttb`o b`-stmtc wb`crbcs te sfbp te dekmds. ^fc Keurt rudcn
tfmt sukf nbskrbab`mtbe` vbedmtcn tfc S.[. Keaacrkc Kdmusc,
wfbkf scrvcs te c`surc m dcvcd pdmyb`o cdn ier husb`csscstfreuofeut tfc keu`try. Hut tfc Keurt nbn`t c`nersc nbrckt
sfbppb`o pcr sc< bt acrcdy smbn tfmt stmtcs fmn te trcmt b`- m`n
eut-ei-stmtc prenukcrs tfc smac wmy wfc` bt keacs te sfbppb`o
wb`cs te ke`suacrs. Ms m rcsudt, m icw stmtcs tfmt prcvbeusdy
mddewcn tfcbr ew` wb`crbcs te sfbp te stmtc rcsbnc`ts fmvc hm``cn
sukf ncdbvcrbcs mdteoctfcr, wfbdc etfcrs epc`cn tfc eenomtcs te
wb`c sfbpac`ts.
enmy aest stmtcs mddew mt dcmst seac sfbppb`o ei wb`c irea
prenukcr te ke`suacr, tfcrchy hypmssb`o wfedcsmdcrs m`n
rctmbdcrs, mdtfeuof seac fmvc rcstrbktbe`s, rcqubrc spckbmd pcrabts,
m`n/er kfmroc iccs te wb`crbcs m`n tfesc wfe erncr irea tfca.
B` 8:=8, scvc` stmtcs fmn eutrboft hm`s e` sfbppb`o wb`c m`netfcr mdkefedbk hcvcrmocs7 Mdmhmam, Mrlm`sms, Abssbssbppb,
Eldmfeam, Zc``sydvm`bm, [eutf Nmletm, m`n Stmf.
^fc dmw b` tfbs mrcm rcamb`s m aevb`o tmroct, hut b` aest
stmtcs, ke`suacrs km` `ew purkfmsc S.[. wb`c e`db`c m`n fmvc bt
ncdbvcrcn te tfcbr neer, kbrkuavc`tb`o tfc pest-Zrefbhbtbe`
aencd ei tfc tfrcc-tbcr systca, wfbkf rcqubrcs prenukcrs te
scdd tfcbr mdkefedbk hcvcrmocs te wfedcsmdcrs, wfe scdd te rctmbd-
crs/rcstmurmtcurs, wfe scdd te ke`suacrs.
etfcr stmtcs m`n mreu`n tfc werdn. _btf dekmd m`n mrtbsm`md
tfc kmtkfwerns ei m rbsb`o kudturmd aevcac`t, tfc heea b` S.[.
wb`c prenuktbe` b`krcmsb`ody eiicrs seactfb`o ier cvcrye`c, irea
keddckters ei tfc fbofcst-predc hettdb`os te vbsbters wfe wm t te
smapdc tfc spckbmdtbcs ei m rcobe` m`n dcmr` aerc mheut wb`c.
^freuofeut tfc heel [`mpsfet hexcs prcsc`t kmpsudc b`ieramtbe`
mheut amger wb`corewb`o rcobe`s. MYMs m`n ourcs ier vb`cymrn
mkrcmoc m`n wb`crbcs rcckt b`nustry b`ieramtbe` mt tfc tbac
tfbs heel wc`t te prcss. _fcrc stmtcs ne `et scpmrmtc wb`c ormpc
mkrcmoc irea tmhdc m`n gubkc-ormpc mkrcmoc, tfbs bs `etcn. B`
rcobe`s wbtf dew vb`cymrn mkrcmoc m`n/er icw wb`crbcs, [`mpsfet
kmtcoerbcs amy vmry ier prmktbkmd rcmse`s.
Aest-pdm`tcn vmrbctbcs mrc dbstcn b` ncskc`nb`o erncr ei
mkrcmoc< wfcrc mppreprbmtc, hcst vmrbctbcs mrc sb`odcn eut.
Ier aest rcobe`s, wc fmvc scdcktcn lcy wb`crbcs b` tfc
kmtcoerbcs ^rmbdhdmzcrs (fbsterbk/cmrdy wb`crbcs b` tfc rcobe`),
[tcmny fm`ns (ke`sbstc`tdy rcdbmhdc), [upcrstmrs (seac ei tfcaest seuoft-mitcr `macs), m`n E`c te wmtkf (up-m`n-keab`o,
`cw, er pmrtbkudmrdy b``evmtbvc prenukcrs). @et mdd [`mpsfets
fmvc cxmapdcs b` mdd ieur kmtcoerbcs.
M` cvedvb`o mspckt ei wb`camlb`o b` tfc S`btcn [tmtcs bs
tfc cstmhdbsfac`t ei MYMs, wfbkf rckeo`bzc wb`c rcobe`s ier
tfcbr spckbk sebds, kdbamtcs, cdcvmtbe`s, cxpesurcs, m`n fbsterbcs.
Ms tfbs heel wc`t te prcss, scvcrmd MYM pctbtbe`s dcn wbtf tfc
Mdkefed m`n ^ehmkke ^mx m`n ^rmnc Hurcmu (^^H) wcrc pc`nb`o