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The Spanish designer speaks to Amnesia Magazine a few days before she travels to Paris to present her new collection at Paris Fashion Week.

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  • YA ARZUAGA

    HOLD BACK THE NIGHT

    PHOTOGRAPHY VIRGILI JUBEROMAKE-UP, HAIR & NAILS SHARKA

    USING M.A.C COSMETIC AND JESSICA NAILSMODEL TRILCE AT DEVA MODELS

    ALL CLOTHES AMAYA ARZUAGA

    TEXT GUADALUPE REVUELTA

    Es uno de los nombres altisonantes de la moda espaola. Tanto que ni siquiera necesita apellido. En Espaa, cuando se habla de Amaya es una evidencia que de quien se est hablando es de Amaya Arzuaga. Admirada y admirable rara avis. Ha des!lado en London, Milano y Paris, esta ltima, junto con Madrid, su pasarela presente. En su CV reluce tambin la Medalla de Oro a las Bellas Artes que recibi en 2005 y una trayectoria exponencialmente internacional. Amaya es negro y vanguardia. Pars y Japn la aman. Ibiza es su summer paradise.

    Hers is one of the big names in Spanish fashion. So much so that she doesnt even need a surname. When you speak of Amaya in Spain its obvious that youre speaking of Amaya Arzuaga. An admired and admirable rare bird. She has shown her work in London, Milan and Paris, the latter being her current catwalk, together with Madrid. Her CV also includes the Gold Medal of the Fine Arts she received in 2005 and an increasingly international career. Amaya is black and cutting edge. Paris and Japan love her. Ibiza is her summer paradise.

  • AMAYA ARZUAGA FASHION INTERVIEW AMAYA ARZUAGA

    104 105

    Si yo te digo Ibiza, t dices. El lugar donde mejor duermo.

    Qu cosas no faltarn en tu maleta para tus vacaciones en la isla? Libros, gafas de sol, tacones, fruta y un montn de ropa que normalmente no llego a usar.

    Y en tu Ipod o sonando directamente desde el radio casette del coche? Desde Arcade Fire a los Yeah Yeah Yeahs.

    Para ir a cenar, qu restaurante eliges? Las Dos Lunas y Amalur.

    Para bailar? Cualquier !esta con amigos y Amnesia, claro.

    Tu playa de Ibiza? Soy ms de mar que de playa. Me encanta el agua de Formentera.

    Qu aprendiste de tu paso por la London Fashion Week? Cuando fui a des!lar a Londres -en 1996- llevaba muy poco tiempo en la moda y all coincid con Hussein Chalayan y Alexander McQueen. Lo que aprend es que haba gente con mucho talento y que haba que esforzarse e intentar tener un concepto personal y nico.

    Pars siempre ser Pars? Para m, sin duda. Siempre ha sido mi meta.

    Made in Italy. Es un concepto de moda que te interesa? Depende. Jil Sander o Prada, s. Cavalli no tanto.

    Por qu se infravalora la moda americana? A m personalmente me encanta. No creo que se infravalore. S es cierto que, en general, la pasarela de Nueva York es ms comercial que las europeas.

    Exportas el 50 por ciento de tu produccin. Cules son tus grandes mercados? Hong-Kong, Singapur, Japn, Europa y los Pases rabes.

    Negro. Siempre elegante y una constante en tu trabajo. Por qu te gusta tanto este color? Porque pienso en negro. Cuando estoy diseando suelo imaginarme todo en ese color. Es el color que ms me inspira, aunque utilizo muchos ms.

    Qu otras cosas te inspiran? Propuestas que te hacen soar? Instalaciones de arte, el vino, una buena cena, cualquier cosa que me rodea. Cuando ests trabajando muchas veces ves cosas que en realidad no existen y lo divertido es hacer que esas cosas que imaginas se hagan reales.

    Martin Margiela? Siento una gran admiracin por su trabajo. Me parece un genio. Creo que tiene una forma nica de disear y de hacer suyas cosas ajenas a la moda.

    Ibiza. Vienes a la isla desde pequea. Ha estado la isla alguna vez en la base de alguna de tus colecciones? Cuando vengo a Ibiza en verano tengo el concepto del des!le de!nido. Los das que paso aqu me sirven para pensar en el desarrollo de la coleccin.

    Tienes ya las fechas cerradas de tus prximos des!les en Madrid y Pars y qu puedes avanzar sobre tus prximas dos colecciones Primavera-Verano 2012? Madrid ser el 18 de septiembre y Pars la primera semana de octubre; el calendario o!cial an no est cerrado y me temo que no puedo adelantar nada.

    Amaya Arzuaga. De qu modo tu marca ha contribuido al desarrollo de la moda espaola y en qu punto te encuentras? No s si he contribuido en algo. Ahora mi meta prioritaria es consolidarme en Pars.

    If I say Ibiza, you say The place where I sleep best.

    What cant you do without in your holiday suitcase when you come to the island? Books, sun glasses, high heels, fruit and lots of clothes I !nally dont use.

    And on your iPod or car radio? From Arcade Fire to the Yeah Yeah Yeahs.

    What restaurant do you choose to go out for dinner? Dos Lunas and Amalur.

    And to go out dancing? Any party with friends and Amnesia, of course.

    Your Ibiza beach? Im more of a sea person than a beach person. I love the waters in Formentera.

    What did you learn from your London Fashion Week experience? When I showed my work in London, in 1996, I hadnt been in fashion for long, and there I met Hussein Chalayan and Alexander McQueen. What I learnt was that there were many talented people and that one has to make an effort to develop a personal and unique concept.

    Is Paris always Paris? For me it is, undoubtedly. Its always been my goal.

    Made in Italy. Is it a fashion concept youre interested in? It depends. Jil Sander or Prada, yes. Cavalli, not so much.

    Why is American fashion undervalued? I personally love it. I dont think its undervalued. However, its true to say that the New York catwalk is more commercial than the European ones overall.

    You export 50 per cent of what you manufacture. Which are your largest markets? Hong-Kong, Singapore, Japan, Europe and the Arab countries.

    Black. Always elegant and constantly present in your work. Why do you like this colour so much? I think in black. When Im designing I usually imagine everything in this colour. Its the most inspiring colour for me, but I do use many other colours.

    What other things inspire you? What makes you dream? Art installations, wine, a !ne dinner, anything around me. When youre working you often see things that arent there and trying to make those things you imagine real is fun.

    What about Martin Margiela? I feel great admiration for his work. I think hes a genius. I think he has a unique way of designing and of making things from outside fashion his.

    Ibiza. Youve been visiting the island since you were a kid. Has the island ever been the basis for any of your collections? When I come to Ibiza in the summer, Ive already designed the concept for my fashion show. The days I spend here help me devise how the collection will develop.

    Have you already set a date for your coming shows in Madrid and Paris, and what can you tell us about your next two Spring-Summer 2012 collections? Madrid will be 18th September and Paris the !rst week in October; the of!cial calendar isnt closed yet; and, regrettably, I cant say anything about them.

    Amaya Arzuaga. In what way have your contributed to the development of Spanish fashion with your brands and where are you at? I dont know if Ive contributed in any way. My priority goal now is to become established in Paris.