Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

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New Technologies & Active Ingredients: Plant stem cells & Sustainability Critically analysing the sustainability benefits and accompanied challenges and limitation Future outlook for plant stem cells in cosmetics

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  • 1. Founded in 1967 in Sweden International beauty company selling direct Portfolio of approx. 1,000 cosmetics products 1.4 billion /7300 employees 3.5 million Oriflame Consultants Catalogues (150M) distributed in 40 languages 90% of all Oriflame Consultants in many markets using online tools Sustainability: long-term commitment
  • 2. PLANT STEM CELLS Alain Mavon, Ph.D AN ON TREND & SUSTAINABLE SOURCE OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS May 21-23, Roma, Italy
  • 3. Mibelle, 2008 PhytocellTechTM of malus domestica 2% extract reduced by 15% wrinkles in a month AN APPLE A DAY MAY KEEP WRINKLES AWAY !
  • 4. 3lab immediatly put the apple-stem cell extract in its Deluxe M Cream, out this month . Lancme tweaked its own version of the apple complex in the new Absolue Precious cell For a more recession friendly, Lumene, offers its new ExCELLent Future Deep Repairing Cream, just under $30 - Sarah Brown, VOGUE US, Nov 2009, p 154 - Created the buzz ....!
  • 5. I Cant Believe The Hype Beauty Products With Plant Stem Cells ! Posted: 06/30/10 Plant stem cell is the most advanced scientific innovation that reverses the signs of skin aging through the power of cell regeneration Global Cosmeceuticals Market Outlook 2016, Feb. 2013 . ALTHOUGH STILL LACKING RIGOROUS DATA OF EXTENSIVE HUMAN STUDIES AND RESEARCH ON STEM CELLS, INTEREST CONTINUES TO RISE Next Generation Cosmeceuticals, S. Malerich, D. Berson, Dermatol Clin 32 (2014) 13-21 Power Plant - Sustainability, because farming isnt involved fewer natural resources are needed. - April Long, ELLE, Skin Care, Feb. 26, 2013 -
  • 6. Copyright 2013 by Oriflame Cosmetics SA - IM-MORTAL : theoritical ability to an unlimited number of division Shoots - Roots Meristems PLANT STEM CELLS SOURCE OF PLANT GROWTH & RENEWAL
  • 7. 8 PLANT STEM CELLS BIOTECHNOLOGIES ACCESS TO SECONDARY METABOLITES
  • 8. are low molecular weight compounds that aid in the adaptation of the plant to their environnement. Because of their siginificant biological activity, plant secondary metabolites have been used in traditional medecine for centuries. Plantsecondarymetabolites
  • 9. Initiation, growth and cryopreservation of plant cell suspension cultures N.R. Mustafa, Nature Protocols 6, 715742 2011
  • 10. PLANTLETS and CALLUS
  • 11. Loss of productivity over time Spontaneous genetic variation of suspension cultures Shear sensitivity, slow growth rates, low oxygen requirement Low content of secondary complex metabolites PLANT STEM CELLS BIOTECHNOLOGIES
  • 12. PHARMA INDUSTRY ? Paclitaxel / Taxol, Anti-cancer drug (BMS, >$1 billion)
  • 13. Initial Taxol demand 25 Kg/year 340,000 KG OF BARK OR 38,000 TREES Taxol is Extracted from bark of pacific yew tree (taxus brevifolia) 11 chemical steps, using 13 solvents, 13 organic reagents !!!!! Chemical Synthesis
  • 14. Recent advances towards development and commercialization of plant cell culture processes for the synthesis of biomolecules, S. Wilson & S Roberts, Plant Biotech. J., 10, 249 -268, 2012. About 250 kg Todays production is based on plant stem cell in 75,000 liters bioreactors
  • 15. Bio-guided elicitation (anti-oxidant in tubo assay) Jasmonic Acid or Me Jasmonate Unpublished data, Oriflame, 2013 Extract of reference - Green Tea
  • 16. Cultured cambial meristematic cells as a source of plant natural products, E.K. Lee et al. Nature Biotech 28, 1213-17 (2010) & Plant natural products from cultured multipotent cells S. Roberts et.al. Nature Biotech 28, 1175-76 (2010) Cambial Meristematic Cells C.M.C.
  • 17. 18 Cultivation of rare / protected species No overexploitation of land No seasonal / geographical variation of crop No pesticides, fertilisers, heavy metals or GMO Less water & energy consumption Local sourcing & simplified harvesting Controlled conditions & high purity of Extracts PLANT STEM CELLS BIOTECHNOLOGIES
  • 18. Brutal Facts
  • 19. The June 2013 UNs report projects a population of 9.6 billion by 2050
  • 20. Because of their siginificant biological activity, plant secondary metabolites are used in traditional medecine About 75% of people worlwide rely on Traditionnal Medecine to meet their primary healthcare needs 60% of anti-cancer drugs, from natural origin
  • 21. consumers
  • 22. Green becomes the New Black in skin care *Source: Euromomitor International, Beauty and personal care skin care ; passport, Feb 2014
  • 23. Green / Sustainable consumers trend *Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey, 2013 Europe 22 30 36 15 34 47 36 25 40 20 Asia Pacific 23 46 55 44 13 29 27 Americas 56 26 48 25 Middle East and Africa 36 50 49 GLOBAL TOTAL 34 Consumers who say that green and sustainable production methods influence their personal care purchases*
  • 24. NATURAL INGREDIENT CLAIMS ARE HIGHLY INFLUENTIAL FOR OVER HALF OF GLOBAL CONSUMERS* , 20 country average, 2011 Natural ingredients in personal Care *Source : Datamonitor Consumer Survey, 2011
  • 25. Health & money *Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey 2013 70% of skincare shoppers globally1 agree that health and beauty products formulated with "natural" ingredients are better for them. 86% of skincare shoppers1 globally consider it reasonable to charge a premium for "natural" products
  • 26. Use of Science to achieve differentiation and deliver multifunctional skincare in a growing anti-aging market so scientists will become more important in all areas of our universe, from retail, clothing and food to branding, luxury and space tourism.
  • 27. loyalty driver
  • 28. ..So youre not going to take a cow, probably not a silk worm or a tree to Mars.
  • 29. How NASA Prints Trees Posted Feb 9, 2014 by Emelie Rutherford So instead of taking the whole organism - so that youre 3D printing an array of cells that then can secrete or produce these products? NASA-funded researchers Rothschild & Gentry said !
  • 30. 32 PLANT STEM CELLS BIOTECHNOLOGIES The science is still in its infancy, but were at the beginning of something very exciting.
  • 31. Copyright 2013 by Oriflame Cosmetics SA - Grazie! Agriculture in Ancient Rome

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