alain mavon, skin research director, oriflame cosmetics ab

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Founded in 1967 in Sweden International beauty company selling direct Portfolio of approx. 1,000 cosmetics products €1.4 billion /7300 employees 3.5 million Oriflame Consultants Catalogues (150M) distributed in 40 languages 90% of all Oriflame Consultants in many markets using online tools Sustainability: long-term commitment

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New Technologies & Active Ingredients: Plant stem cells & Sustainability Critically analysing the sustainability benefits and accompanied challenges and limitation Future outlook for plant stem cells in cosmetics

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Page 1: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

• Founded in 1967 in Sweden

• International beauty company selling direct

• Portfolio of approx. 1,000 cosmetics products

• €1.4 billion /7300 employees

• 3.5 million Oriflame Consultants

• Catalogues (150M) distributed in 40 languages

• 90% of all Oriflame Consultants in many markets using online tools

• Sustainability: long-term commitment

Page 2: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

PLANT STEM CELLS

Alain Mavon, Ph.D

AN ‘ON TREND’ & SUSTAINABLE SOURCE OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

May 21-23,Roma, Italy

Page 3: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Mibelle, 2008 PhytocellTechTM

of malus domestica

2% extract reduced by 15% wrinkles in a month”

AN APPLE A DAY MAY KEEP WRINKLES AWAY …!

Page 4: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

”3lab immediatly put the apple-stem cell extract in its Deluxe M Cream, out this month ….

Lancôme tweaked its own version of the apple complex in the new Absolue Precious cell …

For a more recession friendly, Lumene, offers its new ExCELLent Future Deep Repairing Cream, just under $30 ”

- Sarah Brown, VOGUE US, Nov 2009, p 154 -

Created the buzz …....!

Page 5: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB
Page 6: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

I Can’t Believe The Hype – Beauty Products With Plant Stem Cells …!

Posted: 06/30/10

“Plant stem cell is the most advanced scientific innovation that reverses the signs of skin aging

through the power of cell regeneration”Global Cosmeceuticals Market Outlook 2016, Feb. 2013

…. ALTHOUGH STILL LACKING RIGOROUS DATA OF EXTENSIVE HUMAN STUDIES AND RESEARCH ON STEM CELLS, INTEREST CONTINUES TO RISENext Generation Cosmeceuticals, S. Malerich, D. Berson, Dermatol Clin 32 (2014) 13-21

Power Plant - Sustainability, because farming isn’t involved fewer natural resources are needed. - April Long, ELLE, Skin Care, Feb. 26, 2013 -

Page 7: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Copyright ©2013 by Oriflame Cosmetics SA ТВОИ МЕЧТЫ - НАШЕ ВДОХНОВЕНИЕ

IM-MORTAL : theoritical ability to an unlimited number of division

Shoots - Roots

Meristems

PLANT STEM CELLS SOURCE OF PLANT GROWTH & RENEWAL

Page 8: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

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PLANT STEM CELLSBIOTECHNOLOGIES

… ACCESS TO “SECONDARY METABOLITES”

Page 9: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

… are low molecular weight compounds that aid in the adaptation of the plant to their environnement.

Because of their siginificant biological activity, plant secondary metabolites have been used in traditional medecine for centuries.

Plant secondary metabolites

Page 10: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Initiation, growth and cryopreservation of plant cell suspension culturesN.R. Mustafa, Nature Protocols 6, 715–742 2011

Page 11: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

PLANTLETS and CALLUS

Page 12: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Mother cultures

Callus induction/

growth

Cell Suspension/

inductionUp-scaling Production

Loss of productivity over time Spontaneous genetic variation of suspension cultures Shear sensitivity, slow growth rates, low oxygen requirementLow content of secondary complex metabolites

PLANT STEM CELLS BIOTECHNOLOGIES

Page 13: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

“PHARMA” INDUSTRY ?

Paclitaxel / Taxol, Anti-cancer drug(BMS, >$1 billion)

Page 14: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Initial Taxol demand 25 Kg/year

340,000 KG OF BARK

OR 38,000 TREES

Taxol is Extracted from bark of pacific yew tree (taxus brevifolia)

11 chemical steps, using 13 solvents, 13 organic reagents !!!!!

Chemical Synthesis

Page 15: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Recent advances towards development and commercialization of plant cell culture processes for the synthesis of biomolecules, S. Wilson & S Roberts, Plant Biotech. J., 10, 249 -268, 2012.

About 250 kg

Today’s production is based on plant stem cell

in 75,000 liters’ bioreactors

Page 16: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Bio-guided elicitation (anti-oxidant in tubo assay)

Jasmonic Acid or Me Jasmonate

Unpublished data, Oriflame, 2013

Extract of reference -Green Tea

Page 17: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Cultured cambial meristematic cells as a source of plant natural products, E.K. Lee et al. Nature Biotech 28, 1213-17 (2010) & Plant natural products from cultured multipotent cells S. Roberts et.al.

Nature Biotech 28, 1175-76 (2010)

Cambial Meristematic Cells C.M.C.

Page 18: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

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Cultivation of rare / protected species No overexploitation of land

No seasonal / geographical variation of crop No pesticides, fertilisers, heavy metals or GMO

Less water & energy consumption Local sourcing & simplified harvesting

Controlled conditions & high purity of Extracts

PLANT STEM CELLSBIOTECHNOLOGIES

Page 19: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Brutal Facts

Page 20: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB
Page 22: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Because of their siginificant biological activity, plant secondary metabolites are used in traditional medecine

About 75% of people worlwide rely on

Traditionnal Medecine to meet their primary

healthcare needs

60% of anti-cancer drugs, from natural origin

Page 23: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

consumers

Page 24: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Green becomes the New Black in skin care

*Source: Euromomitor International, Beauty and personal care skin care ; passport, Feb 2014

Page 25: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Green / Sustainable consumers’ trend

*Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey, 2013

Europe

22 30 36 15 34 47 36 25 40 20

Asia Pacific

23 46 55 44 13 29 27

Americas

56 26 48 25

Middle East and Africa

36 50 49

GLOBAL TOTAL 34

Consumers who say that green and sustainable production methods

influence their personal care purchases*

Page 26: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

NATURAL INGREDIENT CLAIMS ARE HIGHLY INFLUENTIAL FOR OVER HALF OF GLOBAL CONSUMERS* , 20 country average, 2011

Natural ingredients in personal Care

*Source : Datamonitor Consumer Survey, 2011

VERY HIGH / HIGH

VERY LOW / LOW MEDIUM

17% 30% 54%

Page 27: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Health & … money

*Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey 2013

70% of skincare shoppers globally1 agree that health and beauty

products formulated with "natural" ingredients are better for them.

86% of skincare shoppers1 globally consider it reasonable to charge

a premium for "natural" products

Page 28: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Use of Science to achieve differentiation and deliver multifunctional skincare

in a growing anti-aging market

…… so scientists will become more important in all areas of our universe, from retail, clothing and food to branding, luxury and space tourism.

Page 29: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

loyalty driver

Page 31: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

How NASA Prints Trees

Posted Feb 9, 2014 by Emelie Rutherford

“So instead of taking the whole organism …- so that you’re 3D printing an array of cells that then can secrete or produce these products? ”

…NASA-funded researchers Rothschild & Gentry said !

Page 32: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

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PLANT STEM CELLSBIOTECHNOLOGIES

…“The science is still in its infancy, but we’re at the beginning of something very exciting.”

Page 33: Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB

Copyright ©2013 by Oriflame Cosmetics SA ТВОИ МЕЧТЫ - НАШЕ ВДОХНОВЕНИЕ

Grazie!

Agriculture in Ancient Rome