africa & middle east textiles 3 2014

Water-free dyeing techniquesTechniques de teinture sans eau

Pleins feux sur l’Afrique du sud

Prévue de Cinte Textil China 2014

Se concentrer sur l'essentiel

Spotlight on South Africa

Preview of Cinte Techtextil China 2014

Going back to the basics

Cinte Techtextil China 2014 is going to be a bigopportunity for buyers and exhibitors

ISSUE THREE 2014TROISIÈME EDITION 2014

AFTEX Issue 3 2014 Cover_cover.qxd 05/09/2014 10:05

S01 AFTEX 3 2014 Start_Layout 1 9/5/2014 2:27 PM

Developments 4News, updates and market reports

Spotlight on South Africa 6Textile industry shows signs of resurgence

Investment in Africa 7Asian investment in the African textile market

Water-free dyeing techniques 12Superficial carbon dioxide gives colour to fabric

Cinte Techtextil China 2014 16Shanghai gears up to host the biggest expo

Basics of factory management 20Principles of factory organisation

Développements 4Revue des récents projets textiles, marchés, contrats

Pleins feux sur l’Afrique du Sud 6L'industrie textile montre des signes de réapparition

Investissement en Afrique 7L’investissement asiatique ans le marché textile africain

Techniques de teinture sans eau 12Le dioxyde de carbone superficiel donne la couleur à l'étoffe

Cime Techtextil China 2014 16Shanghai se prépare à accueillir la plus grande expo

Notions de base de gestion d'usine 20Principes d'organisation d’usine

CONTENTS

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE 2014 3

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Cover: Water-free dyesInset: Cinte Techtextil China 2014

Cover: Teinture sans eauInset: Cinte Techtextil China 2014

Serving the world of business


September 2014

24 - 26 Cinte Techtextil China Shanghai, China www.techtextilchina.com

October 2014

16 - 19 OTM 2014 Gaziantep, Turkey www.otm2014.com

21 - 24 IGATEX Pakistan 2014 Lahore, Pakistan www.igatex.pk

November 2014

3 - 4 International Textile Fair Dubai Dubai, UAE www.internationaltextilefair.com

4 - 6 Texworld Istanbul Istanbul, Turkey www.messefrankfurt.com

10 - 12 ORIGIN AFRICA Nairobi, Kenya www.originafrica.org

19 - 21 FESPA China 2014 Guangzhou, China www.fespa.com

December 2014

1 - 2 IWTO Wool Round Table Brussels, Belgiumwww.iwto.org

January 2015

5 - 7 Beltwide Cotton Conference Texas, USAwww.cotton.org

February 2015

4 - 6 ExpoProducción Mexico City, Mexico www.expoproduccion.com/

March 2015

10 - 12 JEC Europe Composites Show & Conferences Versailles, Pariswww.jeccomposites.com

April 2015

7 - 10 Tecnotêxtil Brasil 2015 Sao Paulo, Brazilwww.tecnotextilbrasil.com.br/inicio

May 2015

5 - 7 Techtextil 2015 Frankfurt, Germanywww.techtextil.messefrankfurt.com

June 2015

15 - 18 ShanghaiTex 2015 Shanghai, Chinawww.shanghaitexonline.com

November 2015

12 - 19 ITMA 2015 Milan, Italy www.itma.com

TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER

AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE 20144

TEXTILE NEWS

Angolan textile mill to reopenafter 14 yearsAFRICA TEXTIL LOCATED in Angola’s

Benguela will resume operations after 14 years.

Once fully operational, the mill will spin 11,000

tonnes of cotton per year, produce 12mn pieces of

towels and 120,000 cotton blankets. The reopening

of the mill is part of the government’s strategy to

rehabilitate the Angolan textile industry. The

Japanese Bank for International Cooperation (JBIC)

has financed its reconstruction and modernisation.

South Africa to support textileinvestmentsSOUTH AFRICA’S TRADE and industry minister

Rob Davies stated that the government will

support investments in clothing and textile over the

next year. According to the minister, the plan to

support investments could become the ‘centrepiece

of the department of trade and industry’s work’ by

the end of the five-year Industrial Policy Action

Plan in 2014. It is through the efforts of the DTI

that the country has mitigated the decline of its

clothing and textile sector, he added. The clothing

and textiles sector absorbs labour and has been

successfully stabilised through the introduction of

a number of measures like improved monitoring of

imports to ensure compliance with customs and

excise regulations and to reduce unfair and illegal

imports, designation of the sector under the

Preferential Procurement Policy Framework Act

(PPPFA), collaboration with key retailers to

encourage local procurement and the introduction

of the Clothing & Textile Competitiveness

Programme (CTCP). Davies added that DTI would

also ensure that the South African government

procured 75 per cent of its goods and services from

local companies.

East African countries seekforeign investment EAST AFRICAN NATIONS are pursuing foreign

investors to revive the apparel industry. John

Walugembe, executive director of the Uganda

Small Scale Industries Association (USSIA),

appreciated the government’s decision to engage

with foreign investors by organising trade

missions to encourage bilateral agreements. The

landlocked country has a vast labour supply and a

growing middle class. The US-East African

Community Trade and Investment Framework

Agreement (TIFA), Uganda is working to lower

the cost of executing business in the country. In

Kenya, the Ministry of Industrialisation and

Enterprise Development has earmarked the

textiles and apparel sub-sector as a potential

driver of economic growth through its National

Industrialisation Roadmap. The government has

provided land in the Export Processing Zone in

Athi River near Nairobi, to construct a textile

manufacturing hub. It has also planned to upgrade

Kenya’s ‘northern corridor’ transport links

between Nairobi, port of Mombasa and the border

port of Malaba.

Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy(Commercial Office) of the country in question.

Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés del’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question


MEMBERS OF THE African textile industry have

shown keenness to see how the African Growth

and Opportunity Act (AGOA) gets renewed. The

AGOA runs has been legally functional from 2000

and is due for renewal on 30 September 2015. The

United States Fashion Industry Association

(USFIA) joined six US and African fashion and

retail trade organisations in a call for immediate

renewal of the AGOA.

The organisations also called for long-term

renewal of the programme for at least 15 years –

including the third-country fabric provision – and

extension of the third-country fabric provision to

all AGOA beneficiaries. Julia K Hughes, president

of the USFIA, said, “AGOA not only allows US

companies to produce quality, affordable apparel

for their customers, but also provides much-

needed jobs and economic opportunities in sub-

Saharan Africa.”

However, these opportunities are at stake as the

expiration date looms. In a recent benchmarking

study done by the USFIA, fashion executives

remarked that they want to continue sourcing from

the AGOA region, and even place more orders. But

without duty-free treatment, sourcing apparel from

the region is cost-prohibitive for many fashion

brands and retailers. ince they plan their sourcing

six to twelve months in advance, many are already

considering leaving the region altogether. At a

trade show in South Africa, industry heads

converged to understand how the renewal of

AGOA would benefit Africa. Currently, exports

from Africa to the US under AGOA have grown by

500 per cent from US$8.15bn in 2001 to

US$53.8bn in 2011. Inputs from the African textile

industry alone amounted to US$1bn.

However, despite the growth, the African share

of the US markets amounts to only one per cent –

this means there is ample opportunity for African

textile manufacturers to increase their share in the

US market. There is concern among large sections

of African textile majors regarding the manner of

renewal. Steve Lamar, executive vice president of

the American Apparel & Footwear Association

(AAFA), said, “The question is not whether it gets

renewed, but more how it’s renewed,” said Lamar,

adding that complications that became apparent

during the outgoing first phase of the agreement

must be ironed out.

DESIGNER LADUMA NGXOKOLO, who

belongs to the Xhosa ethnic group in South

Africa, showcased his native collection at the

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Johannesburg.

Ngxokolo created a colourful range of knitwear

which highlighted the Xhosa culture. The

designer conceptualised his collection based on a

project titled The Colourful World of XhosaCulture while studying textile design and

technology at the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan

University in Port Elizabeth.

In 2010, the the project won the South African

Society of Dyers and Colourists’ design

competition and the success of the project led to

the creation of his label MaXhosa.

“I decided to develop a Xhosa-inspired

collection of knitwear using traditional Xhosa

beadwork, colours and motifs. I wanted to call the

name of my brand MaXhosa by Laduma because

I wanted to showcase the astonishing beauty of

the Xhosa people and translate it in a modern way

that appeals to the current youth, who are

influenced by international trends,” said the

young designer in an interview with BBC.

SWAZILAND’S COTTON FARMERS have been paid US$846.344 for their harvest, asthey continue to prepare their harvest for collection.

Local reports in the southern African nation stated that the farmers received more moneythan they anticipated. They have been paid for over 600 metric tonnes of harvested cotton butare waiting for more yields.

Daniel Khumalo, CEO of Swaziland Cotton Board stated that farmers preferred to keeptheir harvest and sell it to the board when they needed the money. As they need to transportthe crop to the ginnery, farmers have provided contractual employment to industrialists, whoown trucks, to collect the cotton from the farmers living in all the four regions of the country.

Due to these arrangements with the truck owners, the country’s Cotton Board hasdisbursed about US$56.446 to the truck owners for collecting cotton directly from thefarmers and transporting the same to the ginnery.

Operating in this manner was easier on farmers as they would not have to bear thetransportation costs as the board took the responsibility to collect the packaged cottonfrom them, and settled the full amount for their harvest. The country has faced a shortfall in

the production of cotton due todrought, so the board is exploringthe introduction of geneticallymodified cotton in the country.The CEO said the environmentallaws of the country do not allowthem to use the available shortseason cotton variety since theywere genetically modified.Khumalo said the board hasapplied to the SwazilandEnvironmental Authority (SEA).

Swaziland’s cotton farmers prepare harvest for collection

THE GOVERNMENT OF Rwanda has signed

a US$10mn deal with a Chinese garments

manufacturing company C&H to set up a

textile manufacturing unit at the Kigali Special

Economic Zone. Through this unit, Rwanda

can export textile garments to Europe and

USA, and eventually boost the local

manufacturing sector. Authorities from the

government stated that 1,000 Rwandanese will

be employed, and this number is likely to rise

to 30,000 in five years. The facility would be

operational in one-and-a-half years and the

government has agreed to cover 50 per cent of

the training cost. Meanwhile, the investor will

supply equipment and additional expertise.

The director of C&H Garments Company

stated that the new textile unit is likely to open

up more investments into the country. The

industry is a high employment sector and is

becoming increasingly more important in the

East African region as economies develop.

Designer Laduma Ngxokolo’s designs from the Xhosacollection, which won rave reviews in Johannesburg

US and African textilemanufacturers keen torenew AGOA

South African designer wins accolades for native collection

Rwanda signs US$10mn deal with Chinese garments company

TEXTILE NEWS


Due to a shortfall in cotton production,the Swaziland Cotton Board is keen totry genetically modified cotton


By Robert Adams

After years being retrenched, the South African clothing industry is now showing signs of resurgence.With encouraging export figures from 2013, experts are hopeful that the industry can eventually contributeto the country’s economy as well

MORE THAN A decade of stagnant wages, job cuts and factory closures

has passed, but there’s no doubt now that the South African textile and

clothing industry is looking up. However, formidable problems relating to

further import substitution remain to be solved before the industry makes its

traditionally major contribution to increase national prosperity.

The good news is that the economy – considered one of the high-growth

BRICS nations – is doing well and the international community finds South

Africa an attractive place to invest in once again. Growth is accelerating as

inflation and prime lending rates continue to fall. In addition, the weakening

Rand has helped exporters regain their competitiveness over the past year,

especially as manufacturing costs rise rapidly in China.

Specifically in these industries, the turnaround owes greatly to the

government’s long-running clothing and textile competitiveness and related

programmes. But most of the consumption is still being enjoyed by the middle

classes, who largely buy factory-fresh apparel. The level of long-term

unemployment continues to be unacceptably high, which a South African

publication has termed as ‘jobless economic growth’.

However, “a silver lining is beginning to emerge” stated a government

spokesperson to a local newspaper Cape Times in March 2014. Diminished

maybe, but the textile and clothing sectors are making an important

contribution to employment creation, especially amongst women. In August

2014, the WTO released figures for trade performance in 2013. The exports of

textiles themselves nearly doubled year-on-year (YoY) to US$425mn, with

foreign clothing business doing even better at US$503mn (more than three

times). Both were the best performances in years, although imports continue

to exceed exports by a wide margin, and non value-added raw materials like

wool and cotton play a big part in trade flows.

A key stimulant for all this has been the official support measures

mentioned above, including the Manufacturing Investment Programme and

the Production Incentive Scheme – both of which are running out of time.

The Textile Federation acknowledges that its members have shifted from

being one of South Africa’s largest sectoral employers to an also-ran and being

reliant on cotton imports to keep their remaining under-performing mills in

action. But in the strength of the local retail market, it sees plenty of silver

linings round the corner, too.

The National Clothing Retail Federation has commented recently on a

growing yet highly competitive domestic market, which now sees its priority

as managing the risks of fashion through import substitution. This is in

addition to supporting local manufacturers as well.

According to the retail body, the local industry has a key advantage over

foreign competition. This is the very short (just a few days) lead-time for

introducing “hot” items reported from Milan and Paris, which are in demand

in the Rainbow Nation’s bustling malls.

Nevertheless, “local suppliers are under increasing pressure from higher

operating costs, expensive raw materials and lack of investment in

technology to remain competitive with international counterparts,” said

officials from the retail organisation.

As a result, “ensuring sustainability of the local supply base” is seen as one

of its key objectives, it added. The federation represents the interests of 80,000

employees in the apparel trade, including manufacturers in the Eastern Cape.

Credit risk is seen as a subsidiary but a specific problem right now.

However, one thorny issue remains to be resolved – the uncertainty about

South Africa’s continuing inclusion within the US Congress-approved

African Growth & Opportunity Act (AGOA). This is the non-reciprocal

preferential trade scheme, which supports garment exports to the world’s

largest single apparel market.

At the recent Africa-US Summit, relations with Washington could have

been better, and there are widespread fears that South Africa could follow

Swaziland out of the entire export-promoting scheme altogether – it is due for

renewal in 2015 anyway.

On the contrary, South Africa has some good friends in the US capital, such

as the Corporate Council on Africa, and AGOA is less important to local

clothing exporters than it is to other sub-Saharan states.

How is it possible to see the products of South Africa’s textile and

clothing industries under one roof in the upcoming fashion season? Not

surprisingly, the trade shows relate to the design and retail ends of the

business. The annual 100% Design SA Johannesburg show closed on 10

August 2014 – it is always a good place to see both fabrics and clothing, but

only amongst all the other product ranges. From 13 to 15 November 2014,

Garments & Textiles is being held in Johannesburg and this is essentially

about sourcing apparel from China. A complementary Fashion Accessoriesshow will be held nearby at the same time. The World Retail Congress

Africa is being held in the city between 18 and 19 November 2014. And

finally, the comprehensive SAITEX retail trade show is not due to be held

again until June 2015.

A South African publication said that the SA economy suffers from being

like a double-decker bus, with the middle classes who support the retail

apparel trade seated firmly on top. The trouble is, “The bus has no stairs”. ❑

Textile industrygaining traction


SPOTLIGHT ON SOUTH AFRICA

A large part of South Africa’s middleclass still buys factory-fresh apparel

S02 AFTEX 3 2014 Spotlight_Layout 1 05/09/2014 10:18

INVESTMENT IN AFRICA


Asian countries are exceedingly keen to invest in Africa’s booming cottontextile industry, owing to a high demand in the Asian textile industry

AMONG SEVERAL INDUSTRIES, textile and apparel is synonymous

with Africa currently. Developing labour-intensive sectors like textile

and apparel is considered a step ahead to catch up with advanced economies –

Japan, China and the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) have

all done the same – commonly called the flying geese pattern. Now, Africa is

actively promoting industrialisation and countries are developing the

manufacturing sector, in order to make the transition from an agrarian

economy to a industrial one.

In a research paper titled The Impact of Asian Investment on Africa’s TextileIndustries, Tang Xiaoyang, resident scholar at the Carnegie-Tsinghua Center

for Global Policy, has explained how investments have influenced the cotton

industry in southeast Africa

Africa is undergoing rapid industrialisation, and the textile industry is

contributing to this growth in a notable manner. Xiaoyang, in his paper, has

explained how Asian companies are playing a particularly intriguing role in

Africa’s ongoing industrialisation process. He has focused on southeast

Africa, often considered a “microcosm” to understand the impact Asia has

had on the cotton-textile-apparel value chain in Africa. “The value chain from

cotton farming to textile processing and to apparel making plays a significant

role in the economic life of the countries in this region, notably Botswana,

Lesotho, Malawi, Mozambique, South Africa, Swaziland, Tanzania, Zambia,

and Zimbabwe. The development of the cotton-textile-apparel value chain in

this region can comprehensively and significantly shape the socio-economic

life in its rural and urban areas,” wrote Xiaoyang.

Aside from trade, investment from Asian countries is also shaping the

development of the whole cotton-textile-apparel value chain in southeast Africa.

With production costs rising in China, economists believe that Africa should

take over apparel manufacturing. Several researchers have analysed the growing

importance of Asian players in Africa’s cotton-textile-apparel value chain.

Curran and Taylor, focused on the movement of Asian investors before and after

the Multi-Fiber Arrangement ended. Brooks and Lee studied labour relations in

Chinese textile mills in Zambia and Tanzania, respectively. However, no one has

undertaken a study with the aim of establishing a systematic understanding of

the impact of Asian investment in different sectors of the southeast African

economy, to try to analyse how such engagement will influence overall

development of the region’s cotton-textile-apparel value chain and whether it

will contribute to the economic growth of the region over the long term.

The research paper has ascertained that the analysis of the African cotton

sector is mainly limited to Zambia and Tanzania. Both countries liberalised

their cotton sector in the mid 1990s, and the markets are open for domestic and

foreign investors. Multinational companies have shown interest in entering the

local market to purchase and export cotton. The earliest foreign investors in

this region are multinationals from the United States, Europe, or neighbouring

African countries. Among them are Cargill and Dunavant in Zambia, Alliance

in Kenya and Biosustain in Tanzania. Asian investors began participating in

the mid-2000s. Chinese-owned Chipata Cotton Company (CCC) started

acquisition of cotton in the Chipata region of Zambia and quickly expanded to

Zimbabwe, Malawi, and Mozambique. Several Chinese companies have since

arrived in Zambia, Tanzania and Zimbabwe.

Seeing their success, a number of ginners – people who operate cotton gins

– arrived in the region from India around 2011 and 2012. Singapore-based

Olam International has developed an extensive presence in Zambia, Tanzania,

and Zimbabwe. The arrival of Asian buyers in the region is mainly driven by

the rising demand of the Asian textile industry. China has become the world’s

largest cotton consumer, and because the domestic cotton price in recent years

has been much higher than the price in the international market, cotton export

to China has become highly profitable. The booming textile industries in

Southeast Asia and South Asia also need a huge amount of cotton, though the

amount of cotton going there is smaller and fluctuates greatly, while China has

been steadily increasing its sourcing from Africa.

However, the market situation in Tanzania looks different. Most international

cotton companies in southern Africa stay away because of the unique, centralised

structure of Tanzania’s cotton sector. Ginners are permitted to contract with

growers, but are not permitted to provide their own seeds, inputs (pesticide,

herbicide, fertiliser), and technical assistance directly to the Tanzanian farmers.

Instead, they have to contribute funds to the Tanzania Development Trust, which

in turn procures inputs, distributes seeds, and provides technical assistance to the

farmers. Under this system, the ginners bear half of the input costs and the

farmers bear the other half, but the farmers’ portion is collected by the ginners.

The Tanzanian cotton authority argues that with the scale of this centralised

system, chemical materials can be procured in bulk, reducing the cost. Yet, in

practice, the ginners find that they cannot get the cotton as contracted. In part,

this is because the technical input and assistance are not provided efficiently.

Quality control and grading have become loose since the old regulation and

monitoring system collapsed after liberalisation. Farmers add water to cotton

and various grades are mixed. Some ginners have grabbed the farmers’

contribution for their own pockets. The farmers, meanwhile, complain about

low prices and breach of contract by ginners. All of this leads to further

mistrust between ginners and farmers. In this context, most international

companies hesitate to enter the market. Not counting investors from

neighbouring countries, only one multinational company, Olam, was active in

the Tanzania cotton market. But even Olam is said to have downsized its

activities since 2012 due to the difficult market conditions. As a result, most

of the 42 ginneries in Tanzania are small and medium-sized local companies,

many based on former cooperatives.

Nevertheless, Dahong Textile decided in April 2013 to invest in Tanzania’s

Shinyanga Province by setting up a ginnery and spinning mill. Tanzania’s low

cotton price and cheap labour cost were particularly attractive to the Chinese

textile company. It has plans to demonstrate and disseminate advanced cotton

plantation skills to Tanzanian farmers to improve the quality and production

of cotton. The Japanese firm Nitori took a different approach to investing in

Tanzania. In May 2013, the company’s managing director asked President

Jakaya Kikwete, who was visiting Japan, to allocate 20,000 ha where Nitori

could grow cotton. Nitori also announced a plan to invest US$100mn in

Tanzania to set up a ‘fully-fledged textile industry’ that will create thousands

of jobs and improve the country’s exports. ❑

Source: carnegietsinghua.org

Leaning on Africa’s abundance

Multinational companies from the US, Europe and Africa arekeen to purchase and export cotton from the continent


par Robert Adams

L'IRAN FAIT DE nouveau les gros titres avecl'espoir que les industries du textile et de

l'habillement, dont l'histoire est longue maismouvementée, feront partie du « programmed'activités international » destiné à faire sortirla République islamique de son carcan.

Tout va dépendre de l'issue, plus tard cetteannée, de la « levée des sanctions », signéeen Suisse en novembre dernier et quenotamment l'Union européenne et denombreux exportateurs de machinesappellent de leurs vœux.

Beaucoup s'accordent à dire que le «nouveau visage de l'Iran », à savoir lePrésident Rouhani qui a été élu en 2013,est le bienvenu en tant que nouvelinterlocuteur. Marquant le début d'unenouvelle ère pour son pays, le nouveauleader de l'Iran est apparu pour la premièrefois devant le public international àl'occasion de l'édition de cette année duForum économique mondial, ce qui aconstitué un premier pas. Il s'est en effetdéjà entretenu directement, bien quebrièvement, avec le Président des États-Unis.

La Révolution remonte à 1979 et lessanctions accablantes de la communautéinternationale sont en place depuis 1996.Manquant de capitaux et d'équipements, lesindustries du textile et de l'habillement ontpayé un lourd tribut. Ayant employé à leursplus belles heures plus d'un demi-million depersonnes, ces activités centenairesconstituaient de loin le secteur de fabricationnon pétrolier le plus important du 20e siècle.Après une forte baisse, les effectifs actuelssont inconnus, mais les secteurs du filage etdu tissage emploient encore beaucoup depersonnes travaillant en particulier avec l'unedes plus vastes gammes de fibres naturelles

locales au monde, notamment la soie.Beaucoup officient dans la fabricationdomestique (c'est-à-dire à très petite échelle),en particulier dans la production de tapis deluxe. Les sanctions économiques ontaugmenté la désirabilité et par conséquent lavaleur marchande à l'échelle internationale deces magnifiques articles d'ameublement,notamment dans les pays du Golfe.

Toutefois, tous les segments des industriesdu textile souffrent de la médiocrité et del'insuffisance des équipements mécaniquesactuellement disponibles, de l'absence desindispensables investissements directsprovenant de l'étranger et des nombreusesopportunités des zones frontalières poreuseset parfois troublées d'infiltration de tissus etvêtements de tous types. Parallèlement, lamonnaie demeure faible, ce qui augmente lecoût local des importations officielles.

Les problèmes persistants rencontrés enSyrie, pays tout proche, ont sans doutecontribué à rendre la situation encore plusconfuse étant donné le prétenduengagement de l'Iran en Méditerranée

orientale ; les événements alarmantssurvenus cette année en Ukraine ont en faitdonné naissance à un espoir inattendu étantdonné qu'ils ont entraîné une augmentationde la demande internationale concernant legaz iranien, qui butait depuis longtempscontre le refus d'une grande partie de lacommunauté internationale. L'an dernier,l'Iran aurait perdu plus de 25 milliards de $,uniquement à cause des sanctionsd'embargo sur les exportations de pétrole. Ilest urgent que le secteur du textile et del'habillement retrouve des couleurs pourbooster une économie de la fabrication miseà mal et diminuée depuis si longtemps. C'estindéniable : la demande nationale enproduits de base est là, mais il manqueencore les moyens de l'exploiter pleinement.

Pour en savoir plus sur la situation actuelledu commerce du textile, nous devons nousréférer à la publication de l'OMC «International Trade Statistics 2013 ».Malheureusement, ces chiffres1 ne donnentaucune indication concernant le commerceinternational officiel de l'habillement en Iran.

Augmentation de l'activité textile : une nécessité pour l'Iran

8

PLEINS FEUX SUR L’IRAN

Malheureusement, ceschiffres1 ne donnent aucune

indication concernant lecommerce international

officiel de l'habillement enIran. Mais tout laisse àpenser qu'il est infime.

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 3EME EDITION/2014

Le tissage de tapis est sans doute une des manifestations les plus distinguées de culture et d'art persans etremonte à la Perse antique


Mais tout laisse à penser qu'il est infime. Lesexportations de textile ont quasiment doublédepuis 1990 pour atteindre 1 097 millions de$ en 2012. Ces chiffres sont largementinférieurs au taux de croissance de l'activitémondiale dans son ensemble, même sil'augmentation annuelle de 17 % en 2012 esttrès encourageante. Les importations detextile se sont maintenues à un niveaurelativement stable, largement inférieur cestrois dernières années. Mais la tragédieréside dans l'incapacité de l'Iran à tirer partide la forte croissance des ventesinternationales de l'habillement depuisl'abandon des contingents AMF. À l'échellemondiale, les chiffres ont plus que doublédepuis le début du millénaire et le secteurs'avère beaucoup plus lucratif que celui destextiles semi-finis.

En Iran, il n'est pas facile de trouver desinformations à jour concernant les secteursindustriels. La source la plus fiable sembleêtre l'organisme officiel pour la promotion ducommerce2 dont l'un des départementss'occupe des affaires conclues avec les paysafricains et arabophones.

(tél. : +9821 2266-4010 ou fax : -2566). Lesite de cet organisme fournit des informationsconcernant les différents exportateurs et desrépertoires d'entreprises, notamment une

section utile consacrée aux petitesentreprises. Il dresse également un inventairecomplet des salons (voir ci-dessous).

L'Association des industries textiles d'Iran3représente quelque 400 entreprisesindividuelles, mais, en dehors de leurscoordonnées, peu d'informations à propos desactivités du secteur sont disponiblesdirectement dans la section en anglais du siteWeb indiqué ci-dessous.

Cette année, le salon à ne pas manquerest sans nul doute Irantex 2014 qui couvrel'ensemble des produits, y compris lesmachines destinées au cuir et au textile (du17 au 20 novembre). L'an prochain,l'événement incontournable sera la 3e édition

du salon spécialisé dans les vêtementsiraniens (du 21 au 24 février 2015). Lesecteur florissant des tapis semble organiserà part ses principales expositions. Leprincipal salon consacré au tissage manuelse déroule du 23 au 29 août, tandis que sonéquivalent pour le tissage machine a lieu du 6au 9 septembre. Il existe également diversesexpositions de tapis régionales. Le site Webde l'association des exportateurs de textilevaut également le détour4. ❑

www.wto.org/statisticswww.tpo.ir http://aiti.org.irwww.itema.ir

PLEINS FEUX SUR L’IRAN

9TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 3EME EDITION/2014



TEXTILE NEWS

GERMAN MANUFACTURERSAURER Schlafhorst has saidthat its digital displacementtechnology PreciFX is now theonly tried and tested drumlessyarn displacement system forbobbin processing.

Officials from the company saidthat 15,000 winding units havebeen installed. Working withselected customers, Schlafhorstdeveloped a large number of new,more efficient package formats inthe years following that are onlypossible with PreciFX. Severalfeatures make PreciFX stand outfrom its contemporaies – by theuse of pattern-free randomwinding, precision winding orstepped precision winding, thesystem enables individual package designs tobe produced without any compromise beingrequired. Completely new package formatsare possible, such as biconical hard packagesor dye packages with round flanks –perfection at the touch of a button, flexibilitywithout limits and significantly reducedhardware handling with one system.

Klaus Kamphausen, technology managerat Schlafhorst, said, “The package is thedecisive interface in the textile process

between the spinning mill, dye shop, warpingdepartment, doubling mill and weaving mill.The package build directly affects theproductivity and efficiency of downstreamprocess stages. PreciFX permits optimisationin every direction. Sales spinning mills cancover a much wider spectrum of orders oncompetitive terms. Vertically integratedcompanies can make their processes moreefficient and optimise them.” With theircustomers, the company has developed and

perfected package formats withPreciFX that lead to huge leaps inefficiency in downstreamprocessing. The efficiencyadvantage extends to theelimination of entire process steps,such as the edging of dyepackages, for example. Theinnovative yarn displacementsystem can coordinate innerstructures of a machine and theouter shape of the dye packageoptimally to the requirements of thedye shop, allowing for customiseddyeing patterns. A uniquecharacteristic of the PreciFX is itsfilling function, which ‘tops up’ theouter area of tapered packageswith an additional quantity of yarnwhile guaranteeing superb

unwinding properties. The package contentsare thereby augmented by around 10 per cent.By optimising the package design, PreciFXincreases the weight of packages by 10 to 20per cent while retaining the same diametre. Thismakes it an effective cost brake for salesspinning mills with a high outlay on logistics.

For the first time, warping, weaving, knittingand doubling mills can define what the idealpackage for their purposes look like, and caneven reinvent these packages.

Saurer Schlafhorst’s new and only ‘tried and tested’ drumless yarn displacement system PreciFX

In liaison with a select set of customers, Saurer Schlafhorst has developed a new drumlessyarn displacement system, which is cutting edge and innovative

THE INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) in

its latest results says that global yarn production increased in Q1 2014

compared to Q4 2013, due to a high output in Asia, North America and

Europe

Annually, yarn production increased as well even though output levels

were lower in South and North America. Worldwide yarn stocks decreased

slightly in comparison to the previous quarter as a result of lower

inventories in South America and Europe. Year-on-year (YoY) global stocks

jumped with higher stock levels in Asia and Europe and despite lower ones

in South America. Yarn orders in Europe and Brazil were up in Q1 2014.

However, the report stated that global fabric production was down in Q1

2014 as a consequence of lower fabric production in Asia with South

America and Europe recording higher output levels. Year-on-year (YoY)

world fabric production decreased slightly with Asia’s output having

shrunk, and Europe’s and South America’s having grown. Worldwide fabric

stocks were lower in Q1 2014 with South and North America recording

lower stock levels, despite higher ones in Asia and Europe.

Fabric stocks fell as well as a result of decreasing stocks in South

America and despite higher stocks in Asia, North America and Europe.

Fabric orders rose in Q1 2014 both in Europe and Brazil. In comparison to

Q1 2013, fabric orders were up in Europe and Brazil.

Estimates for yarn production for Q2 2014 are positive in Asia and North

America, unchanged in South America but negative in Europe. Estimates

for fabric production for Q2 2014 are positive in Asia and Europe and

unchanged in South America. The outlook for yarn production for Q3 2014

is positive in Asia and unchanged in Europe. The outlook for fabric

production for Q3 2014 is positive in Asia and Europe.

US-BASED XERIUM TECHNOLOGIES is setting up a new rolls and

mechanical services facility in Corlu, Turkey which will be operational

in Q1 2015. In a statement, Xerium Technologies said the facility is

under construction.

Through the new facility, the company will provide a full suite of

patented performance-enhancing roll solutions to customers in the MENA

region, and will perform grinding, roll recovering and mechanical

services on site.

In order to facilitate the processes in machine clothing, roll services and

machine automation Xerium Technologies is also increasing sales and

service staff for the region, through its SMART Roll sensor solutions.

Harold Bevis, CEO of Xerium, said, “We are honoured to be the first

major global competitor to build a plant in the region and proud of our

relationship with Eren Holding and Modern Karton. We look forward to

delivering superior mechanical services, roll covering capabilities, and

machine automation services to the region.”

Products and services will be delivered through a local workforce familiar

with local customs and the plant will be co-located on the grounds of Modern

Karton – one of the largest and most integrated producers in the region.

He added, “This area of Europe is healthy and growing in the industries

we serve. We believe this commitment will bring value to the area for all

three of Xerium’s product categories which are roll coverings, mechanical

services and machine clothing.”

The company uses a broad portfolio of patented and proprietary

technologies to provide customers with tailored solutions and products

integral to production, which are designed to optimise performance and

reduce operational costs.

Xerium Technologies to build newfacility in Turkey

Global yarn production rises in Q12014, states ITMF


USTER TECHNOLOGIES’ TESTER 5 and Classimat 5 provide accurate and

reliable data on yarn, and are considered among the best yarn testing

apparatus. Evenness, imperfections (neps, thin and thick places), hairiness,

defects and foreign fibres can be detected by the two devices. These laboratory

testing equipment can detect the quality of yarn and even predict what the final

fabric will look like. It is widely believed that evenness (CVm) testing could

also provide accurate results for the same purpose, but Gabriela Peters,

product manager for yarn testing at Uster Technologies has stated that CVm

isn’t enough to test other parameters that ascertain the quality of yarn.

Comprehensive testing at the Uster Technologies laboratory in Switzerland

has shown that yarns with comparable CVm values can produce fabrics with

obvious differences in appearance. In the tests, Ne24 cotton yarns from 10

different suppliers had insignificant differences in their CVm values, which

could lead to the incorrect conclusion that the fabrics would look the same.

Further test data from the Uster Tester 5 showed results for neps which were

close in 8 of the 10 cases, in which the yarns had a nep value below the 25

Uster’s User Statistics Percentile (USPTM). “The effort of knitting or weaving

a fabric can be reduced to the minimum or eliminated if you have a yarn test

report containing reliable information relating to fabric appearance. The

Classimat 5 identifies the number of disturbing thick and thin places, helping

to assess fabric defects.”

The parameters collectively measured by Uster’s Tester 5 and the Classimat

5 can help assess fabric appearance issues and downstream performance. A

major breakthrough is the visual display of the ‘yarn body’ and outliers which

could otherwise cause quality claims and rejections. Outliers for periodic

faults, evenness, imperfections and hairiness are pinpointed, as well as the

standard analysis of thick and thin places which is already essential in yarn

trading. The device has a new powerful sensor with multi-coloured light

source detection, which can differentiate coloured foreign fibres, vegetable

matter and, for the first time, polypropylene content.

INCREASING PRICES, SPORADIC shortage of energy sources and strict

environmental legislations have put Asian textiles producers under pressure

to increase productivity. Member companies of the VDMA Textile

Machinery Association demonstrated at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014 that

latest German technology increases profits by higher energy efficiency.

VDMA experts examined the energy saving effects over the entire

production chain of three textile products.

VDMA’s approach of the analysis is to cover the complete value chains

from the raw material to the finished product, like a a functional T-shirt. To

manufacture this type of product, the process starts with spinning and

texturising of polyester yarn followed by the warp preparation. To produce

the textile fabrics, warp-knitting technology is used like an automatic warp

knitting machine. In the following process step of textile finishing, this

material is washed, dyed black and finished (functionalised by applying

special properties such as dirt repellent, waterproof and water vapour

permeable layers), dried and finally completed by setting. For all these

steps, from filament production to finishing not only the electrical energy

consumed – including compressed air and air-conditioning – but also the

thermal energies like gas, oil, or steam have been taken into account.

GROZ-BECKHERT, THE LEADER in provision of

textile apparatus, relaunched its application

myGrozBeckhert at the ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 held

in Shanghai in June. The app offers information about the

textile value chain, industrial tools and appliances

relevant to the textile industry. The maiden version of the

app was launched at ITMA Barcelona in 2011. The new

version has been upgraded with the latest design and is

also more user-friendly. Among the most relevant

changes include the textile motives, already known from

the Groz-Beckert website. Moreover, the app is more

conducive to customer benefits. Not only does the newer

version provide user-friendly navigation structure, but

also simplified intuitive user guidance. The use of

pictograms eases the operation and orientation

significantly, so that the user reaches quickly the desired

information and tools faster. In addition, each user can set

the app individually according to his interests.

Furthermore myGrozBeckert has been extended with

new functions and content. For instance, there is a full

text indexed search in all areas of the app. In addition,

there is a new information portal on the app as well,

which summarises updates and news from the textile

industry. An overview of the Groz-Beckert product

portfolio and the current trade fair appearances have also

been added. MyGrozBeckert is available in German,

English and Chinese. The improved version is

available on smartphones and tablets with the

operating systems iOS and Android.

The all-new myGroBeckhert app on iOS and Android

GERMANY’S EMBROIDERY

THREAD manufacturer Madeira

Garnfabrik has launched a new

range of colours called Frosted

Matt.

The Frosted Matt series is

commonly used for logos,

embroidered text, design, sports,

fashion, clothes and textiles. While

combined with threads like classic

shiny viscose, polyneon polyester

and various other metallic threads

from the supertwist range, the Matt

series creates striking highlights in

embroidery. Frosted Matt 40 is the

enlarged selection, with 189

colours, including neon shades as

well. These threads are particularly

attractive when used for decorative

stitching. Highlight enhancement is

a key feature of this thread and its

structure creates extremely sharp

contours. Because it is polyester,

Frosted Matt’s chlorine resistance

naturally lends itself to many fields

of application.

Saving energy in textile processes is an important step ahead for the industry

Uster Technologies testers provideaccurate data on yarn

German technology increases energy efficiency

Frosted Matt’scolourful palette

TEXTILE NEWS


S03 AFTEX 3 2014 Printing_Layout 1 05/09/2014 10:20

Ian Holme

WATER IS A scarce resource in the Middle

East and North Africa (MENA) region. It

has been estimated that due to population growth,

per capita water availability could fall by nearly 50

per cent by 2050. Further, if climate change

continues as predicted, it would alter the weather

and precipitation patterns. As a result, the MENA

region is likely to experience frequent and severe

droughts and floods.

In 2002, the MENA region had 6.3 per cent of

the world's population but only 1.4 per cent of the

world's renewable fresh water. Population growth

rates in the MENA region are currently around two

per cent compared with a world average of 1.1 per

cent. The United Nations has predicted that by

2025, 30 countries will face water scarcity, among

which 18 countries will be located in the MENA

region. Many countries are currently using excess

water than what is available. For example, Bahrain

used around 220 per cent, Saudi Arabia 943 per

cent and Kuwait a staggering 2465 per cent of their

available renewable water resources in 2011.

Researchers at Massachusetts Institute of

Technology (MIT) in Boston have estimated that

around five billion (52 per cent) of the world's

projected 9.7bn people in 2050 will live in water-

stressed areas where demand exceeds surface

water supply. A large portion of these regions

already face water scarcity, especially India, North

Africa and the Middle East.

The MENA region's water resources include

rivers, wetlands and aquifers. The use of trans-

boundary rivers and aquifers can either lead to

competitors and conflict or to cooperation. Some 67

per cent of the Arab world's population is dependent

upon water supplies that originate in non-Arab

states. Many global climate models have predicted a

difficult outlook for the MENA region forecasting

hotter, drier weather leading to major precipitation

reduction, increase in evaporation and subsequent

reductions in both run-off and soil moisture.

In the MENA region, some countries or

territories like the Gaza strip, Kuwait, Oman,

Saudi Arabia, Qatar, the UAE and Yemen have low

levels of renewable water resources like rivers.

They rely on groundwater and desalination for

most of their water supply. Other countries such as

Egypt, Iraq, Jordan, Lebanon, the West Bank, and

Syria obtain much of their water from river

systems that are shared with other countries.

The demand for water is considered to be

increasing dramatically in all the major use sectors,

namely agriculture, energy production, industrial

uses and human consumption. Agriculture currently

accounts for 70 per cent of all water withdrawn by

the combined agriculture, municipal and industrial

(including energy) sectors. The global demand for

food is estimated to increase by 70 per cent by 2050

and global energy consumption by 50 per cent by

2035 due to population growth and increasing

economic activity.

Processes like bleaching, dyeing, printing and

finishing in the textile industry utilise a lot of water

and generates pollution that necessitate efficient

water treatment and disposal. While strenuous

efforts have been made by machinery

manufacturers to decrease water usage in textile

wet processing, especially in fibre, yarn, fabric and

garment dyeing machinery, water is still the main

medium of choice for textile wet processing.

However other media have been considered for

textile dyeing using waterless process machinery.

One method that is now emerging as a contender to

rival water in the dyeing of synthetic fibres like

polyester using disperse dyes is supercritical

carbon dioxide (scCO2). While supercritical

carbon dioxide has been investigated over the last

three decades, it is only now that a satisfactory

commercial dyeing machine for polyester fabrics

has been developed by DyeCOO Textile Systems

BV, which is based in The Netherlands.

scCO2 DyeingIt has been estimated that in conventional water-

based dyeing of textiles, some 28bn kg of textiles

are dyed each year requiring some 100-150 litres of

water per kg. At ITMA 1991 in Hanover, Germany,

the company Jasper GmbH & Co (Velen, Germany)

exhibited a small semi-technical-scale dyeing

machine for dyeing polyester fabric in supercritical

carbon dioxide (scCO2). However, many technical

problems were encountered and the technology was

discontinued by Jasper. Another pilot plant with a

30-litre capacity was exhibited at ITMA 1995 by

UHDE Hockdrucktechnik GmbH (Hagen,

Germany) in collaboration with the Deutsches

Textilforschungszentrum Nord-West eV (Krefeld,

Germany). This machine included an extraction

cycle for removal and separation of excess dyes and

spinning oils during the dyeing process, as well as

for cleaning the plant at colour changes and for

recycling of carbon dioxide (CO2). A separate dye

storage vessel and a pump with a much higher flow

rate were also integrated into the dyeing machine.

This innovative approach to water-free dyeing is

based upon the properties of supercritical carbon

dioxide (scCO2). Above 31ºC and a pressure of 74

bar, carbon dioxide becomes supercritical – a state

of matter that can be viewed as an expanded liquid

or alternatively as a heavily compressed gas.

Above the critical point, carbon dioxide exhibits

the properties of both a liquid and a gas. scCO2 has

liquid-like densities that is advantageous for

dissolving hydrophobic dyes as well as gas-like

low viscosities and diffusion properties, which can

result in lower dyeing cycle times compared with

aqueous-based dyeing.

Thus, the dyeing of polyester using modified

disperse dyes can be carried out and the removal of

excess dye accomplished in the one machine. A

further advantage is that drying of the dyed textile

is not required because at the end of the process,

the CO2 is released in the gaseous state and this

can be recycled (up to 95 per cent) after

precipitation of any extracted matter in a separator.

Water-free dyeing usingsupercritical carbon dioxide


ECO-FRIENDLY COLOURATION

DyeCoo machinery being used in a factory in Taiwan


The launch in 2010 by DyeCOO Textile

Systems BV (Weesp, The Netherlands) of the first

commercial scCO2 textile dyeing machine was

based upon development that spanned 11 years,

initially at DyeCOO’s parent company, FeyeCon

Development & Implementation BV. Technical

and engineering expertise has been provided by

partners Stork Prints and the University of Delft.

Specially developed disperse dyes were supplied

by Chemische Fabriek Triade BV and process

control systems by Setex Schermuly Textile

Computer GmbH (Germany).

The first DyeCOO machine was installed at

Thailand's Tong Siang Co Ltd, part of the YEH

Group, which has branded the process as DryDye.

DyeCOO's dyeing system consists of maximally

three dyeing vessels connected to a CO2 recovery

and supply unit. These three dyeing vessels are

able to dye simultaneously, but when sequentially

pressurised or de-pressurised.

The operator has to choose which dyeing vessel

should start with pressurisation (Step 1) and select

the dyeing time. The control system then takes

over and automatically executes the remaining

steps for the activated dyeing vessels.

The polyester fabric is wound onto a beam to be

dyed and inserted into the dyeing vessel which is

constructed of pickled and passivated stainless steel

(ANSI 316). The working temperature is 120 deg C

and working pressure up to 260 bar. The maximum

load per dyeing vessel is 150-180 kg with fabric

widths up to 80 inches. The average dyeing time is

nearly three hours. The supercritical fluid CO2

causes the fibre structure to swell, permitting the

disperse dye to easily diffuse into the fibre,

penetrating the pore and capillary structure of the

fibre. The dye solution viscosity is lower,

facilitating easier and less energy-intensive

circulation. DyeCOO’s first scCO2 dyeing

machines dye scoured polyester fabric, but claim

that their Type 2 dyeing machines will be able to

avoid the aqueous pre-treatment step. With their

partner Triade Chemicals, they now have a complete

range of scCO2 dyes for their dyeing machines.

The advantages of scCO2 dyeing compared

with aqueous-based dyeing are:

• elimination of water consumption

• elimination of wastewater discharges

• wastewater treatment process eliminated

• elimination of drying and dryer effluent

• reduction in energy consumption

• reduction in air emissions

• reduction in dyeing time

• surfactants and auxiliary chemicals in dyes

eliminated

• dye utilisation is very high with very little

residual dye. Unused dye can be recaptured

• approximately 95 per cent of used CO2 will

be recycled.

• fewer re-dyes are required

• colour correction is easier compared to

aqueous dyeing

The Yeh Group have found that the physical

properties of scCO2-dyed yarns are equivalent to

those dyed by conventional aqueous dyeing. The

scCO2 process involves the use of less energy than

in conventional dyeing, resulting in a potential of

up to 50 per cent lower operating costs.

In February 2012, Nike Inc took a strategic

stake in DyeCOO Textile Systems BV, and their

Taiwanese contract manufacturer Far Eastern New

Century Corp has installed DyeCOO machinery.

Nike Inc has named this sustainable innovation

ColorDry to highlight the environmental benefits

and unprecedented colouring achieved with the

technology. Industry analysts estimate that more

than 39mn tonnes of polyester will be dyed

annually by 2015 so the potential for scCO2

technology is considerable. The ColorDry process

has reduced dyeing times by 40 per cent, energy

use by around 60 per cent and the required factory

footprint by a quarter.

As part of Adidas’ Better Place sustainability

initiative, the company produced 50,000 DryDye

polyester T-shirts using scCO2 dyeing compared

with aqueous dyeing, which requires an average

around 25 litres of water to colour

one T-shirt. This saved the

use of 1,250,000 litres

of water by using scCO2 dyeing technology. Since

introducing DryDye in 2012 Adidas has produced

one million yards of DryDye fabric for its Prime T-

shirt range. This is claimed to have saved over 25

million litres of water, equivalent to 10 Olympic-

sized swimming pools in just one year. The

DryDye process technology has used 50 per cent

less energy and 50 per cent fewer chemicals than

traditional dyeing methods.

IKEA GreenTech, an IKEA Group venture

capital company has invested in DyeCOO Textile

Systems – an investment that will support the

delivery of the IKEA Group Sustainability Strategy,

People & Planet Positive, which includes challenging

commitments for IKEA to make its products,

operations and supply chain more sustainable.

Huntsman Textile Effects and DyeCOO Textile

Systems joined forces in October 2012 to develop

and grow scCO2 textile processing technology.

The company is working with DyeCOO Textile

Systems to develop and deliver innovative dye and

chemical products to support the water-free dyeing

process and to obtain the high levels of colour

fastness and performance that consumers demand.

Some of the products include Uvitex SC-PN,

Uvitex SC-PB and Uvitex SC-PR, which deliver

brighter white shades and render colours that are

more vibrant. As the scCO2 process gives a dryer

handle than water-based processing, Huntsman

Textile Effects has produced Ultraphil SC-MC to

improve the moisture management of the fabrics

required by the major brands.

scCO2 technology is a major innovation in

dyeing technology which, if it can be extended

to other fibres such as cotton, could prove to be

the most sustainable development in textile

dyeing so far. ❑

• Atmospheric: the dyeing vessel is not under

pressure

• Pressurisation: the dyeing vessel is filled

with CO2

• Dyeing and levelling: the textile is dyed

• Rinsing: the dyeing vessel and the textile is

rinsed

• De-pressurisation: the dyeing vessel is de-

pressurised

Water-free dyeing is based on the properties of supercritical carbon dioxide

ECO-FRIENDLY COLOURATION


THE DYEING CYCLE


par Ian Holme

Série généralisteD'après un rapport élaboré par Transparency Market Research(États-Unis) à propos du marché mondial des produits chimiquespour le textile, le marché mondial devrait passer de 19,6 milliards de$ en 2013 à 23,4 milliards de $ d'ici à 2018. En 2011, le secteur descolorants et des auxiliaires représentait 26,9 % du marché. Nuldoute qu'il devrait croître sous l'effet de l'augmentation de laconsommation mondiale de fibres. La région Asie-Pacifique dominele marché des produits chimiques pour le textile, s'octroyant une partde marché de 52,3 per cent en 2011.

Les fabricants européens de colorants renforcent leur présence dansla région et la société DyStar s'est dotée d'une deuxième chaîne deproduction pour fabriquer sa solution de cuve haut de gamme à 40 %DyStar Indigo. Cette deuxième chaîne de production a été mise enservice le 1er avril 2013 au sein du centre de fabrication de DyStar àNanjing (Chine). Celle-ci atteindra sa capacité visée de 12 000 tonnesmétriques par an.

En 2013, l'entreprise d'investissements privée SK Capital a conclu lerachat auprès de Clariant de Textile Chemicals, entreprise de papiersspécialisés et d'émulsions. Elle a en outre regroupé les trois divisionsau sein d'une société intégrée, axée sur le marché et hautementcollaborative du nom d'Archroma. Archroma devrait réaliser environ 1,3milliards de $ de recettes grâce à ses produits fabriqués dans 25 sitesde fabrication à travers le monde. Elle emploie quelque 3 000collaborateurs. Le site social d'Archroma se situera en Suisse et ladivision Textile Chemicals sera gérée depuis Singapour.

La réglementation stricte adoptée en Europe a contraint lesfabricants européens de colorants à délocaliser leurs sites defabrication en Asie, ce qui permet à l'activité de fabrication de colorantsde se rapprocher géographiquement des principales sources deproduction de fibres textiles et de tissu et réduit ainsi les coûts dedistribution des produits. Les investissements massifs consentis à lafois dans les capacités de fabrication de colorants et de pigments enChine, par exemple, ont permis de réaliser des économies d'échelleconsidérables. Les coûts de production des colorants ont diminué.Parallèlement, sous l'effet de la concurrence mondiale plus acharnéeet de la réduction des coûts de main d'œuvre, le prix d'achat au kilo descolorants et pigments a chuté, en particulier en ce qui concerne lescolorants et pigments de consommation courante fabriqués à trèsgrande échelle.

À présent, en 2014, le marché des colorants et pigments entre dansune nouvelle phase au cours de laquelle le marché a atteint son niveauplancher et qui devrait voir l'augmentation des prix. Ce changement decap en matière de prix à l'échelle mondiale devrait être dû en grandepartie aux approches toujours plus strictes adoptées par les autorités deréglementation chinoises et indiennes dans le but de réduire la pollutionenvironnementale et en particulier la pollution galopante des eaux uséesqui accompagne la fabrication de colorants. Autre facteur essentiel : lafermeture de certains sites de production de produits chimiques quiconstituent d'importantes sources de pollution. Cette fermeture a conduità une chute de la production mondiale de certains produits chimiquesintermédiaires, parmi lesquels l'acide H essentiel à la production denombreux colorants pour le textile. Résultat : des goulets d'étranglementdans la production de certains colorants, des problèmes de continuité

d'approvisionnement et une hausse des prix, tant des produitsintermédiaires que des colorants, sont à prévoir. Dans certains cas,cette augmentation des prix des produits chimiques intermédiairesconduira les fabricants de colorants à se tourner davantage vers lescolorants plus haut de gamme leur garantissant des marges de profitplus importantes.

Alors que les fabricants de colorants optent pour des méthodes defabrication de colorants plus propres et plus écologiques, cela ne peutse faire qu'au prix d'investissements en capitaux consentis au détrimentdes services de recherche et développement, alors soumis à une fortepression des coûts. Il ne peut en résulter qu'une diminution du nombrede nouveaux colorants mis sur le marché à l'échelle mondiale. Il est fortà parier que cette situation constituera un frein à l'innovation qui pourraitdéboucher sur une stagnation de l'évolution technologique dans lesdomaines de la teinture et de l'impression sur textile.

Nouveaux colorantsHuntsman Textile Effects a élargi sa gamme phare de colorantspolyréactifs Avitera SE de teinture par épuisement des fibrescellulosiques. Associés au système Gentle Power Bleach, les colorantsAvitera SE permettent de blanchir, teindre et laver le coton à destempératures ne dépassant pas 60 °C. Cela permet de réduire jusqu'à50 % la consommation d'eau et d'énergie, ainsi que les émissions decarbone. Les colorants Avitera SE sont polyréactifs, ce qui garantit unefaible quantité de 5 % max. du colorant non fixé après teinture contre15 à 30 % pour de nombreux systèmes de teinture réactifs. Celadiminue fortement le nombre de bains de rinçage nécessaires pouréliminer les colorants non fixés/hydrolysés et ainsi obtenir unerésistance optimale des couleurs.

Huntsman Textile Effects a mis sur le marché une nouvelle gammeLight Red de colorants polyréactifs qui confère une nuance rougebleutée et peut être utilisée dans un vaste spectre de nuances clairesafin d'obtenir des couleurs très résistantes à la lumière. Pour lesnuances claires, Huntsman Textile Effects propose les produits AviteraYellow SE, Avitera Cardinal SE, Avitera Light Red SE et Avitera Light

Nouveaux colorants etauxiliaires pour le textile

14

COLORANTS

En 2011, le secteur des colorants et des auxiliaires représentait 26,9 per cent dumarché. Nul doute qu'il devrait croître sous l'effet de l'augmentation de laconsommation mondiale de fibres

TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 3EME EDITION/2014


Blue SE. Pour les nuances intermédiaires, les produits Avitera YellowSE, Avitera Cardinal SE sont complétés par Avitera Red SE et AviteraBlue SE. Pour les couleurs foncées, les éléments jaunes et bleus sontremplacés respectivement par de l'Avitera Orange SE et de l'AviteraDeep Blue SE. Pour les nuances très foncées, Huntsman Textile Effectspropose les produits Avitera Orange SE, Avitera Cardinal SE et AviteraNavy SE. La solubilité aqueuse élevée des colorants Avitera SE leurpermet d'être appliqués dans des rapports de bain ultra-courts. Lagamme Avitera SE est robuste et se caractérise par une excellentecompatibilité, d'où une parfaite reproductibilité des essais en laboratoireà la production de série et d'un lot à l'autre.

DyStar a ajouté à sa gamme de colorants réactifs Remazol DeepBlack deux colorants offrant de meilleures caractéristiques d'intensitéde couleur et de dépôt. Les deux colorants réactifs récemmentbrevetés sont Remazol Onyx RGB et Remazol Midnight Black RGB.Ces colorants démontrent une excellente résistance au lavage, peu dedégorgement sur les fibres polyamides dans les mélanges fibres (parexemple, coton/polyamide), ainsi que de bonnes performances enmatière de lavage et de déchargeabilité du blanc. Ces deux nouveauxcolorants noirs sont applicables par les procédés d’épuisement, defoulardage-stockage à froid ou de teinture à la continu.

Remazol Onyx RGB est un colorant noir neutre tandis que RemazolMidnight Black RGB est un noir verdâtre. Ces deux colorants sontparfaitement conformes à la norme Oeko-Tex 100 et sont garantis sansAOX (organohalogénures résorbables) et sans métaux. Approuvés parbluesign, ces deux colorants ont été conçus afin de répondre auxexigences en matière de résistance des couleurs des détaillants dansle domaine essentiel des nuances de noir. Ils viennent ainsi compléterla célèbre gamme Remazol RGB de colorants réactifs.

Archroma (anciennement Clariant) a mis sur le marché une gammede colorants qui peuvent être appliqués à l'aide de sa technologieAdvanced Denim afin d'étendre le spectre de couleurs en dehors dubleu. La technologie Advanced Denim d'Archroma s'appuie sur celle descolorants Diresul RDT. Toutefois, une nouvelle gamme de six colorantsOptisul C a été lancée à Paris à l'occasion du salon Première Vision. Cescolorants permettent d'obtenir des couleurs denim délicates à l'aided'une méthode de teinture continue. La gamme Optisul C est réputéesans affinité ni sulfure, ce qui lui permet d'être conforme aux critèresGOTS et bluesign 1. Combinables à faible concentration, ils permettentde teindre le denim dans une vaste gamme chromatique aux couleursdélicates facilement reproductibles.

Avocet Dye & Chemical Company Ltd, UK a doté sa gamme decolorants sans métaux Cetalan AV d'un nouveau colorant bleu marine.Cetalan Navy AV RLD complète ainsi une gamme qui comptedésormais 12 colorants couvrant une vaste chromatique. CetalanNavy AV RLD et l'autre nouveauté Cetalan Dark Red AV D sontconçus à destination de l'industrie des tapis en laine ou laine/nylon,mais peuvent également servir à teindre les tissus en laine. CetalanNavy AV RLD permet aux teinturiers du textile d'obtenir des couleurssombres et profondes tout en bénéficiant d'une bonne résistance descouleurs à la lumière et au lavage. Économique, la gamme Cetalanpropose des colorants permettant aux teinturiers d'obtenir descouleurs profondes tout en respectant les normes environnementaleset écologiques strictes.

DyStar a mis sur le marché deux nouveaux colorants réactifs :Levafix Amber CA-N et Levafix Red CA-N. Le premier est un colorantjaune non photochromique que DyStar recommande pour les nuancesternaires claires à intermédiaires. Conçu en vue de remplacer LevafixAmber CA, ce nouveau colorant garantit aux fibres de polyamide undégorgement largement moindre. Levafix Amber CA-N propose unerésistance des couleurs élevée au peroxyde et au chlore.

Levafix Red CA-N est un colorant rouge bleuté qui permet d'obtenirdes nuances moyennes à sombres, ce qui en fait le partenaire parfaitdes combinaisons trichromatiques et une alternative au Levafix RedCA. Ces deux colorants réactifs Levafix Amber CA-N et Levafix Red

CA-N sont applicables par des procédés d'épuisement ou de teinturecontinue. Ils sont garantis sans AOX, sans métaux et sont parfaitementcompatibles avec la norme Oeko-Tex 100 et toutes les listes desubstances autorisées. En outre, le colorant Levafix Amber CA-N estapplicable par le procédé de foulardage-stockage à froid en raison deson comportement de migration équilibré garantissant à la teinture detrès bonnes caractéristiques de reproductibilité et d'uniformité.

DyStar propose un nouveau colorant de cuve vert, IndanthrenGreen CLF Coll, qui présente une taille de particules optimisée etgarantit ainsi des propriétés de migration optimales. Ce colorant decuve propose une excellente reproductibilité, ainsi qu'une nuanceuniforme et unique sur les tissus en polyamide/coton. IndanthrenGreen CLF Coll fournit une nouvelle base aux nuances de vert àrésistance élevée, pour lesquelles la majeure partie de la couleurverte n'est pas assurée par les teintures bleue et jaune. Pour lateinture continue, DyStar recommande de recourir à Sera Gal M-IP, àSera Sperse C-SN pour la teinture par épuisement et à Sera Print M-CAM pour l'impression à deux phases.

Indanthren Green CLF Coll présente notamment l'avantage deposséder des caractéristiques infrarouges similaires à la chlorophylle,ce qui en fait le choix idéal des imprimés de camouflage. Ce nouveaucolorant de cuve présente d'excellentes caractéristiques de dépôt,ainsi qu'une résistance optimale au chlore, une résistance élevée à lalumière, au frottement et aux intempéries, ainsi qu'une résistanceoptimale au peroxyde de benzoyle.

Auxiliaires de teintureLa technologie de teinture réactive Remazol RGB et Remazol UltraRGB de DyStar est désormais complétée par un auxiliaire deneutralisation du bain innovant, utilisé dans le procédé Sera Eco Washdéveloppé par DyStar. SeraFast GRD présente des effets accélérés deneutralisation du bain. Cet auxiliaire a en effet été formuléspécifiquement pour accélérer l'élimination des colorants réactifshydrolysés/non fixés. Le procédé Sera Eco Wash raccourcit le procédéde neutralisation du bain à 60 °C, ce qui permet d'économiser sur l'eau,l'énergie et le temps de traitement. Il est ainsi possible d'améliorer laproductivité des machines et la durabilité des procédés.

Un nouvel accélérateur de diffusion améliorant la teinture pardispersion aqueuse des fibres de polyester a été mis sur le marché parRudolf Chemie. Adapté à la teinture du polyester et des mélanges depolyester, Rucogal ERL est un produit non ionique à base d'éthoxylatealcool gras et d'ester d'acide gras. Peu moussant, Rucogal ERL est unproduit liquide auto-émulsionnable qui peut être ajouté directement aubain de colorant. Rucogal ERL assure d'excellents effets d'égalisation etconvient ainsi à la correction des irrégularités de teinture. Cet auxiliairede teinture résiste à la dureté de l'eau et aux acides dans les conditionsnormales d'un atelier de teinture et confère de bons effetsd'intensification des couleurs même appliqué à ébullition. Il peut êtreappliqué dans tous les types de machines de teinture.

Bozzetto Group a mis sur le marché un nouvel adjuvant, CindyeDNK, destiné à la teinture des fibres d'aramide dans des nuances trèsfoncées, extrêmement difficiles à obtenir normalement en raison de lastructure de fibre cristalline très compacte. Les fibres d'aramidepeuvent ainsi être teintes avec des colorants de base, un pH trèsacide et Cindye DNK qui assure la diffusion accélérée des colorantsau cœur des fibres d'aramide et augmente considérablement larésistance au frottement et au lavage. Remarque importante : lerecours à Cindye DNK ne nuit pas aux propriétés mécaniques et à larésistance à l'abrasion du matériau en aramide. Cette avancéemajeure en matière de teinture des fibres d'aramide permet d'obtenirun rendu des couleurs supérieur et l'auxiliaire exerce un impact plusnégligeable sur l'environnement de par sa bonne biodégradabilité.Cindye DNK est réputé être également efficace dans le cas d'autresfibres difficiles à teindre, telles que le polybenzimidazole (PBI) et lesulfure de polyphénylène (PPS). ❑

COLORANTS

15TEXTILES AFRIQUE ET MOYEN ORIENT 3EME EDITION/2014


The upcoming event promises to be a lucrative affair for exhibitors and buyers especially outside China

NEARLY 500 EXHIBITORS from 19

countries will be present at the Cinte

Techtextil China, scheduled to take place from 24

to 26 September 2014 at the Shanghai New

International Expo Centre

The three-day event has expanded this year,

and is being reckoned as the largest Cinte

Techtextil to be organised – there will be three

halls and 35,000 sq m of exhibition space, which

is 45 per cent larger than the previous edition that

was held in 2012.

There would be a wide range of technical

textiles and non-wovens that could be applied to 12

application areas.

Regional pavilionsHighlights within the International Hall (hall E7)

include country and regional pavilions from

Belgium, Germany, Italy and Taiwan, as well as

the European Pavilion. Pavilions from China Hi-

Tech Group Corp, Shangtex Holding Co Ltd and

Zhejiang Tiantai will be present at the domestic

halls (E5 – E6)

German pavilion This year, the German pavilion will showcase 30

exhibitors representing textile technology,

technical textiles, nonwovens and coated textiles.

This will be organised by the Federal Ministry of

Economics and Technology, the Confederation of

the German Textile and Fashion Industry and

Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH. A. Monforts

Textilmaschinen, founded in 1884, is a supplier of

textile machinery for dyeing and finishing of

classical textiles (woven and knitted), and for

coating and finishing of technical textiles and

nonwovens. They have a special range of products

for finishing airbag fabrics, pre-preg fibres and

technical felts.

A number of other machinery suppliers feature

in the Germany Pavilion. This includes AUTEFA

Solutions who produce individual machines, as

well as turnkey airlay, carding and

thermobonding lines for the non-wovens industry.

Oerlikon Neumag supply plants for the

production of BCF carpet yarns and synthetic

staple fibres, as well as various nonwoven,

spunmelt and airlaid technologies for a wide

range of applications. Lindauer DORNIER

GmbH, who has been producing weaving

machines since 1950, will feature their rapier and

air-jet weaving machines in this pavilion.

Sandler develops and produces non-wovens for

a range of fields including automotive,

construction, engineering, filtration, hygiene and

wipes. This will be their fourth time participating

at the fair, and the company has had partnerships

in China since 2004. “Technical textiles are used

in many industrial areas in China and the demand

is continuing to grow in the wake of the fast

expansion of production in the building sector,

the automotive industry as well as in the medical

and consumer goods industry,” Dr Ulrich

Hornfeck, Member of the Management Board

explained. “Non-wovens for the automotive

industry and filter media are of particular interest

in this market, particularly high-quality

nonwovens for complex products.”

Sandler will be present at the Germany Pavilion

by fellow nonwovens exhibitor Truetzschler which

specialises in the hydroentangling field. And Italian

company RamischGuarrneri Nipco Technology is

represented through their German office, and will

feature a range of finishing calenders.

Asia to display its diversity The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and

Apparel (HKRITA), a long-term participant at

Messe Frankfurt textile fairs in the region, serves

the textile industry in Hong Kong and Mainland

China. They focus on developing new materials

and textiles, advanced production technology and

design & evaluation technology, and will present

their intelligent impact protectors based on 3D

auxetic spacer fabrics at the fair. These unique

fabrics become rigid with impact and flexible

again after impact, and are designed to protect

wearers from impacts and falls.

The Korea Textile Trade Association (KTTA) is

one exhibitor with a wide range of products on

display at the fair for the Mobiltech, Protech and

Sportech sectors. Just some of the items they will

showcase on behalf of their association members

include heat protecting fabrics, non-slip carbon

fabrics, carbon fibre and aramid composite fabrics,

nonwoven textiles for automobile interiors and

ultra lightweight fabrics for tents and tarps.

In addition, the Korea Textile Machinery

Research Institute (KOTMI) is a leading textile

machinery research institute. Their research areas

for textile machinery include structural and

mechanism analysis, process development,

vibration and acoustic analysis and automatic

control systems.

Latest information and trends in the industry

would also be made available to attendees. The

China International Non-Woven Congress will

take place on 25 September, while a number of

informative seminars and product presentations are

also scheduled throughout the fair. In addition, the

Innovative Showcase Display Area features the

latest industry technology.

Cinte Techtextil China is organised by Messe

Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, the Sub-Council of Textile

Industry, CCPIT, and the China Nonwovens &

Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA). ❑

Shanghai Techtextile fair set be biggest ever


CINTE TECHTEXTIL CHINA

The exhibition will be spread across 35,000 sq m of space – 45 per cent larger than the previous edition of CinteTechtextil China that was held in 2012

S04 AFTEX 3 2014 Events_Layout 1 05/09/2014 10:37

With a seven per cent increase in turnout, this year’s ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 was a success andexhibitors are looking forward to the next show scheduled to be held at Shanghai in 2016

THE FIVE-DAY ITMA ASIA + CITME 2014

concluded successfully at the Shanghai New

International Exhibition Centre in June.

Attracting 100,000 visitors from 102 countries,

the event saw an increase of seven per cent over

the attendance recorded at the 2012 show.

Around 80 per cent of the visitors were from

China and over twenty per cent of the visitors

were from overseas, the top economies being

India, Japan, Chinese Taiwan, South Korea,

Indonesia and Turkey.

The combined show is owned by CEMATEX,

together with its Chinese partners — the sub-

council of Textile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex),

China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA)

and China International Exhibition Centre

Group Corporation (CIEC). It was organised by

Beijing Textile Machinery International

Exhibition Co Ltd and co-organised by MP

Expositions Pte Ltd.

Charles Beauduin, president of CEMATEX,

said, “Most of our exhibitors were delighted with

the high-quality trade visitors. The success of the

show reinforces the reputation of ITMA ASIA +

CITME as the most effective business platform in

China and indeed the whole of Asia.”

The total gross exhibition area at ITMA ASIA +

CITME 2014 exceeded 150,000 square metres and

spanned 13 halls, making it the largest combined

show to date, according to organisers. There were

almost 1,600 exhibitors from 28 economies taking

part in the five-day show.

Wang Shutian, president of CTMA, added that

the 2014 exhibition showcased a comprehensive

range of technologies from around the world.

“ITMA ASIA + CITME has now emerged as

the must-visit event for Asian buyers sourcing a

wide range of solutions to help them be more

competitive. Hence, the products on display

included those that boost automation and

energy-saving features.”

In terms of exhibit space, Chinese exhibitors

topped the list, boosted by rapid increase in

Chinese textile machinery manufacturing capacity

and development. They were followed by

participants from Germany, Japan, Italy and

Switzerland. The biggest exhibit sector was

spinning, followed by washing, dyeing, bleaching,

printing, finishing, knitting and weaving.

Interest is now high for the next show,

CEMATEX said. The 2016 exhibition will be held

at the new National Convention and Exhibition

Centre in the Hongqiao business district of

Shanghai from 24-28 October 2016. ❑

ITMA Asia+CITME 2014 sparksinterest for next edition


EVENT NEWS

The products on display at ITMA Asia + CITME 2014 included those that boost automation and have energy-savingfeatures. China topped the list, due to an increase in the its textile machinery manufacturing capacity

FESPA MADE ITS foray into Africa with its first

event that was held from 2-4 July 2014 at Gallagher

Convention Centre in Midrand, South Africa.

FESPA Africa is a joint venture of FESPA and

the South African event organiser Practical

Publishing, whose Sign Africa and Visual

Communications Africa shows will now come

together under the FESPA event, to cover all

aspects of signage, wide format digital printing,

garment decoration and screen printing.

Spread across 13,500 sq m and catering to over

150 exhibitors, the combined event attracted over

6,000 visitors from sub-Saharan Africa and

Europe. Major brands exhibiting at the expo

included Roland, Avery Dennison, Epson, HP,

Mimaki, Durst, Kodak, OKI, Kornit Digital,

Fujifilm, Agfa, swissQprint, Esko, Seiko, Aristo,

Optimus, Pantone, Evonik, Sharp, Monti Antonio

and MS Italy, to name a few

Neil Felton, managing director of FESPA said

“Africa is a vital and exciting growth region, and in

Practical Publishing, an experienced partnered

helped us establish the FESPA brand here with the

right local insights and contacts. By combining

these two established events, the aim was to bring

together the whole wide format print supply chain –

the printers themselves and the specifiers of visual

communications – behind the FESPA Africa brand.”

Dyelan Copeland, Director at Practical

Publishing stated that while Sign Africa and

Visual Communications Africa are successful,

well-attended events, partnering with FESPA,

helped take the events to another level.

“FESPA Africa set out to deliver a new

experience for African business audiences, at a

time when they needed global expertise and

insight to help them embrace the opportunities of

wide format print. Johannesburg was the perfect

location for FESPA Africa, with an excellent

infrastructure and connections to other major

cities in sub-Saharan Africa.”

FESPA makes debut in Africa at Johannesburg


DUBAI IS ALL set to host its first

textile trade show called the

International Textile Fair between 3

and 4 November 2014 at the Dubai

International Exhibition and

Conference Centre. This event is

touted to be the UAE’s premier

platform for fashion fabrics and

clothing accessories. There are

going to be over 200 exhibitors,

with a focus on textile mill

accessories, trim suppliers and print

designers. Exhibitors from Europe,

India, China, UK, Italy, France,

Spain, Portugal, Turkey and other

GCC nations are expected to attend

the show. Dilip Nihalani, organiser

of ITF told local media that such

shows are held regularly in cities

like Paris, Milan and New York and

it is high time Dubai staged such an

event. “Dubai has emerged as a

leading retail fashion hub and what

was missing was a top-class

international fabric show. This fair

will fill the gap.”

According to industry figures, the

textile industry in the UAE was

valued at US$13.2bn and is growing

at 9.9 per cent annually. Housing

over 150 apparel manufacturing

companies and accounting for 5.5

per cent of global textile sales, the

UAE has become the fourth largest

trading centre in the world for

fashion and apparel.

The show will provide

manufacturers the opportunity to

showcase their products to buyers

and designers in and around the

UAE, and is being projected as a

'trade only' event. Majority of the

manufacturers specialise in textiles

and accessories for high-street

clothing, designer, industrial and

home furnishing. In addition, fabric

importers, distributors, wholesalers,

garment exporters, manufacturers,

buying agents, local and

international retail chains are

expected to participate in the two-

day event. Some of the fabrics that

would be exhibited include bast, silk,

cotton, artificial leather, fur, shuttle-

woven chemical fabric, wool, knitted

and coated fabric, compounded and

antistatic fabric, oil-proof and

waterproof, flame-retardant and ray-

proof, mercerised, reflective and

elastic fabric. Accessories include

embroidery, lace, lining, trimming,

crochet and crystallisations. Natural,

synthetic and plant fibres would be

on display. ITF will also showcase

design and production systems like

computer-aided design and

production systems, textile and

clothes colour cards and samples.

TCL 2014, THE international conference of textilecoating and laminating, is scheduled to take placebetween 4 and 5 November 2014 at Cannes in France. The event is organised by International NewslettersLtd (UK) and sponsored by Industrial TextilesAssociates (USA) and Technical TextilesInternational magazine.Executives from this sector will deliver presentationson subjects like the impact of China on the globalcoatings industry, sustainability, chemical protection,digital coating technologies, cross-laminatednonwovens for coating and laminating, integration ofnanomaterials into textiles, vacuum depositionplasma systems, production methods for coatingosmosis and gas filtration membranes and more. The keynote speaker will be Nicholas Smith, global

head of textile coatings at Bayer Material Science inChina, who will focus on the heavy and growinginfluence of China on the global industry.Managing directors, CEOs, presidents, seniormanagers of companies engaged with the textilecoating and laminating industry, suppliers, technicaldirectors and managers concerned in fibres, fabrics,films, polymers, coating and laminating techniquesare encouraged to attend TCL 2014. In addition,marketing directors, managers and industry analystswho are updated with the latest trends in the globalmarkets would also find the event beneficial. TCL 2014 is taking place at the Hotel NovotelCannes Montfleury in Cannes. The hotel is situated10 minutes away from central Cannes, and 25 kmfrom Nice Airport.

Growth of China on global textile industry to be discussed at TCL 2014

Technology-aided design is making strides in the world of fashion and apparel

Dubai to host maiden edition of International Textile Fair in November 2014

EVENT NEWS


THE WORLD TEXTILE

Information Network has

announced that Dr Kate

Goldsworthy and Rebeccah

Pailes-Friedman will judge the

inaugural ITMA Future Materials

Awards, scheduled to be held on

26 November 2014 at Dresden,

Germany. Dr Goldsworthy is a

senior research fellow in Textiles

Environment Design at Chelsea

College of Arts and a lead

researcher with the University’s

Textiles Futures Research Centre.

Pailes-Friedman is the founder

of RPF Design Studio and a

researcher of design methodology,

smart materials and variables.

She has worked as design

director for brands like Fila,

Champion and Nike.

The two judges will join

senior executives from Nike, the

US Army, the Textile Institute,

the Hohenstein Institute, the

Austrian Man-Made Fibers

Institute, Schoeller and Oerlikon

among others.

Two new judgesjoin panel ofITMA awards



Africa and the Middle EastAPPAREL

IT IS AMAZING to find that companies in

several countries worldover give little thought to

basic factory management, organization and

methods. Layouts are almost 95 per cent

predictable. Production flows through conventional

progressive bundle lines with about 30 people-a-

line to one supervisor, a quality controller and

maybe, a technician or trainer; almost regardless of

the product or style quantities being made. The

machines may include automatic pocket sewers,

electronic backtack and needle positioners but how

many have engineered work stations? How many

have handling methods designed to maximise

productivity? Bundles tend to be tied with scrap

from the cutting room, machines and work benches

remain basically the same as delivered from the

supplier, and the method to handle materials is

usually down to the supervisor or service girl

moving bundles between operators.

It really does not matter what country we are in;

tying and untying bundles takes time, effort,

minimises productivity, costs money and usually

creases the garments being produced resulting in

the need for additional pressing. Whether you are

paying operators US$60 per month or US$600, the

process is time consuming and costs a lot.

Admittedly, the layout can look clean and tidy,

everything is laid out neatly in straight lines, but let

us take a cold hard look and go back to basics.

Conventional production management utilises

the neat progressive bundle system with

individuals on piece work, where management is

looking for the highest level of performance,

utilisation and efficiency in each individual based

on the standard minute rate for the operation. It

uses work-in-progress stocks to smooth out

imbalances. Additionally, in-line and final quality

inspection is done to ensure inferior quality goods

are corrected before garments are dispatched. This

progressive bundle system looks at the short-term

profitability of production and tends to clamp

down on immediately visible costs, simultaneously

tolerating high levels of waste. This may be a bold

statement, but it ignores the total costs of

production – handling times, correction times, cost

savings, which can be made if the best method was

used rather than the prescribed ‘We have always

done it this way’ method.

A progressive company, however, takes a step

back to the basics and looks at what it is trying to

achieve and why – not just in terms of maximising

productivity but customer service as well. This

includes the ability to produce short run flexible

production costs effectively with reliable quality

and delivery with a short turnaround. It takes a

holistic approach to manufacturing and understands

its present position amongst its global competition.

A two-week throughput is not sufficient, when

another company can turn the order around in one

week. It needs to analyse its customers’

requirements, like design and pre-production

aspects, production processes that help dispatch

logistics and delivery methods, and finally decide

how best to address these needs. It needs to take an

integrated manufacturing approach using all the

appropriate tools available. An inability to move to

full garment production from CMT may limit a

company’s order opportunities.

A company, whether its a manufacturing unit or

not, requires a detailed plan of where it wishes to be

in five years’ time and longer having analysed

where it is now. What are its shortfalls? What are its

strengths? What are its weaknesses? What are its

opportunities? What information does it really need

Going back to the basicsNiki Tait

A look at how management of factory processes can greatly influenceproductivity and profits

At Hirdaramani, the Switchtrack handling system and the 5S principles help maximise production

S05 AFTEX 3 2014 Apparel_Layout 1 9/5/2014 2:33 PM

to run its business? What are the wider reaching

effects of the business upon which they have little

control? What are the more localised effects?

The aims, objectives and future strategy of each

company will be different, but are likely to include,

to a greater or lesser degree, the requirements for

faster market response with shorter throughput and

lead times, lower overheads and less

administration, increased productivity, reduced

raw material, reduced finished stock, reduced work

in progress, increased flexibility, reduced costs and

improved quality. For any change, one must have

objectives that can be monitored, are specific,

measurable, achievable, realistic and timely.

This will inevitably necessitate improved sales

forecasting, production planning and scheduling,

improved communication, the removal of non-

value added activities throughout the whole supply

chain, building of close working partnerships with

customers and suppliers, and appropriate and

effective information systems. Methods, systems

and technology should be developed to optimise all

resources available to the company. These

resources can be categorised as money, labour,

material, time, space and machinery. The control of

each of these resources is interrelated with the

control of others; none can be looked at in isolation.

Critical examination is an extremely useful tool

when one analyses the purpose of each aspect, and

whether it really needs to be done at all. In addition,

the location, sequence within the overall operation,

who does it, and how they do it are also closely

surveyed. To each of these questions, a series of

supplementary questions have to be asked, such as

what is done, why is it done, what else could be

done and what should be done.

One of the points always to remember is that the

total work content of a job equals the basic work

content plus the excess work content.

The excess work content includes work added by

defects in design or specification of the product.

Bad design prevents the use of the most economic

processes or the optimal use of materials. Lack of

standardisation prevents use of mass production

processes and even in a highly flexible

manufacturing environment, there are aspects that

can still be standardised. The method of waistband

attachment is one such example. Incorrect or

misunderstood quality standards cause unnecessary

work. Excess work content can be added by use of

inefficient methods of manufacturing or operation –

the wrong machine or tools being used, processes

not operated correctly or in bad condition, bad

layouts causing wasted movement, use of bad or

unsafe working methods, lack of adequate training

or poor method specification.

In addition to excess work content, one must

consider where time is lost. Lost time within the

control of the operator includes absence, lateness

and idleness, careless workmanship causing scrap

or rework or careless accidents that cause

stoppages and absence.

However, a far greater potential of lost time is

due to the shortcomings of management. Excessive

product variety and lack of standardisation adds

idle time at the changeover of styles as can poorly

organised design changes. Bad planning of work

and orders can lead to under-utilisation of

operators and machines, as can machinery and

equipment breakdowns. Plants that are in a bad

condition can lead to quality issues, scrap and

rework. Poor working conditions result in workers

finding the need to rest more frequently and can

lead to accidents.

In terms of moving materials around the factory,

and indeed under the needle, a tremendous amount

can be saved with the removal of ineffective time,

and, therefore, cost and throughput time of orders

through production.

There is a well-known theory which states that

in most sewing factories, 80 per cent of the time

spent in the production is in the process of

handling, only 20 per cent is spent actually sewing,

pressing or finishing. Therefore, in any thirty

minute garment only six minutes of the work is

actually productive, value added and effective. The

other twenty four minutes is unproductive, usually

spent moving and manipulating material so the

productive work can be carried out.

A very simple operation, but the only productive

part is the actual sewing.

By better management, methods, layouts and

controls, often a reduction in work in progress,

standard minute content, indirect labour and

throughput time can be achieved without

considerable reinvestment. Handling adds nothing

to the value of the product, but does add to the cost

of manufacturing. The manual movement of work

from one work station to another is completely

unproductive, whether carried out by a service girl

or supervisor. Tying and untying bundles, folding

and unfolding work and booking work are all non-

productive. The storage of work between operations

ties up money, adds no value to a garment, takes

space and slows throughput. If there is no bundling,

no moving around by the operator to collect or

dispose of work, and a garment is ergonomically

delivered to the needle point ready for sewing, such

as with a Unit Production System such as Eton or

INA, or Switchtrack or Schoenberger style system,

for example, the 80:20 handling ratio can be

changed to 60:40 or better, thus maximising

productivity by replacing non-productive time with

productive time. The best solution, however, is to

avoid handling wherever possible.

Where short runs and highly flexible production

is required team working may be a consideration.

Teamwork can be defined as ‘a flexible, quick

response production system consisting of self-

organised, self-motivated, multi-skilled versatile

operators who work collectively in teams, making

joint decisions and sharing responsibility for the

team’s output in terms of both quality and

quantity’. The emphasis is on utilising a small

multi-skilled group of operators to their highest

potential rather than individuals. Group bonuses

replace individual incentives and teams assume

MANAGEMENT


● Pick up the first part, pick up the second part,

position the two parts together at beginning

of seam and place to needle

● Sew seam in three bursts (three bursts are

required, enabling one to reposition as he

sews along the seam)

● Reposition two pieces together for the

second seam, place to needle

● Sew seam in three bursts (three bursts to

allow for repositioning as one sews)

● Fold and aside

● Book work

HOW TO CLOSESIDE SEAMS:

Methods, systems and technology must be developed to optimise all resources made available to the company


responsibility for their own quality with the

emphasis on avoidance of mistakes rather than

identification and correction. Management takes

over from line ‘policing’ and team members

account for their own supervision, quality and

collective output.

In terms of improving the cost effectiveness of

production, it is not just industrial engineering and

using different production methods such as using

unit production systems or team working that can

help but there are also many management

techniques which can be of benefit including Just

In Time, total quality management, Kaizen, and the

5S principles.

As with teamwork, Kaizen is also a collective

rather than individual function. It is a method of

developing continuous improvement throughout a

company in the areas of quality, technology,

processes, productivity, safety, company culture

and leadership, and should involve every employee

from the upper management to the cleaning crew.

Everyone is encouraged to come up with small

improvement suggestions regularly in a managed

manner. The philosophy is “Do it better, make it

better, improve it even if it is not broken, because

if we don’t, we can’t compete with those who do.”

This is opposed to many companies’ thinking that

“If it is not broken, don’t fix it.” The Kaizen

philosophy is that everything can be improved –

quality circles, automation, suggestion systems,

Just In Time delivery, Kanban and 5S are all

included within the Kaizen system of running a

business. It involves setting standards and then

continually improving those standards. To support

the higher standards, Kaizen also involves

providing training, materials and supervision that

is required for employees to achieve higher

standards and maintain their ability to meet those

standards on an ongoing basis.

Part of Kaizen is the 5S programme, which is a

basic, fundamental, systematic approach for

productivity, quality and safety improvement in all

types of business. It focuses on visual order,

organisation, cleanliness and standardisation and

aims to improve profitability, efficiency, service

and safety. The principles underlying a 5S

programme, at first, appear to be simple, obvious

common sense and indeed they are. They may be

bundled under a fancy name, but unless they are

highlighted and emphasised, several businesses

ignore these basic principles. They are as

fundamental to good production as the organised

steps of method study and work measurement, the

main constituents of industrial engineering.

Highlights of 5S programme: ● Sorting - Sorting means to sort through

everything in each work area. Keep only what

is necessary. Materials, tools, equipment and

supplies that are not frequently used should be

moved to a separate, common storage area.

Items that are not used should be discarded.

Don’t keep things around just because they

might be used, someday. Sorting is the first step

in making a work area tidy. It makes it easier to

find the things you need and gives way to

additional space. Broken equipment and tools

are either mended or thrown away. Obsolete

fixtures, moulds, jigs, scrap material, waste and

other unused items and materials are discarded.

● Systematic organisation - There should be a

place for everything and everything in its place,

with everything properly identified and

labelled. Organise, arrange and identify

everything in a work area. Commonly used

tools should be readily available. Storage areas,

cabinets and shelves should be properly

labelled. Clean and paint floors to make it

easier to spot dirt, waste materials and dropped

parts and tools. Outline areas on the floor to

identify work areas, movement lanes, storage

areas, finished product areas, etc. Put shadows

or outlines on tool boards, making it easy to

quickly see where each tool belongs. In an

office, provide bookshelves for frequently used

manuals, books and catalogues. Label the

shelves and books so that they are easy to

identify and return to their proper place.

Systematic organisation not only refers to

individual work areas. The overall facility

should also be systematically organised,

including the proper placement of easy-to-

understand labels and signs. Piping, valves,

control panels, major equipment, doorways,

minor equipment, instruments, storage areas,

offices and files should all be clearly identified.

● Sweep and keep clean. - Once everything is

sorted, cleaned up and organised, it needs to be

kept that way. Regular, usually daily, cleaning

is needed or everything will return to the way it

was. While cleaning, it’s easy to inspect the

machines, tools, equipment and supplies being

used as well. Regular cleaning and inspection

makes it easy to spot oil leaks, equipment

misalignment, damage, missing tools and low

levels of supplies. Problems can be identified

and fixed when they are small. If these minor

problems are not addressed, they could lead to

much bigger equipment failure, unplanned

shortages or long unproductive waits while new

supplies are delivered. When done on a regular

and frequent basis cleaning and inspecting

generally will not take much time, and in the

long run will save time.

● Standardise and simplify - The good

practices developed in the earlier steps should

be standardised and made easy to accomplish.

Develop a work structure that will support the

new practices and turn them into habits. As

things develop, update and modify the

standards to make the process simpler and

easier. One of the hardest steps is avoiding

slipping back into old work habits as its what

everyone is familiar with and feels comfortable.

● Self Discipline - The final step is to continue

training and maintaining the standards. Have a

formal system for monitoring the results. Don’t

expect that you can clean up, get things organised

and labelled, and ask people to clean and

inspect their areas every day, and then expect

this to continue to happen without any follow-

up. Continue to educate people about

maintaining standards. When there are changes

such as new equipment, products and work

rules that will affect your 5S programme, adjust

the programme to accommodate those changes,

make necessary changes in the existing standards

and provide training that addresses those changes.

Sustain the benefits you are getting. ❑


MANAGEMENT

Eton System’s automatic sorting system – part of the UPS system can be used to sort and minimise the number of colour changes during production

Brother Internationale ..................................9

Industrie Machinen GmbH

Loepfe Brothers Ltd. ..................................24

MP International Pte. Ltd. (ITMA 2015) ..........2

Rieter Machine Works Ltd ..........................17

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