advanced grading techniques

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    Advanced Grading

    Techniques

    Choose your method

    Small-Large IncrementalPieces will gradefrom the smallest size to the largest size.

    Base Up-Down IncrementalPieces willgrade from the base size to each size break.

    Base Up-Down CumulativePieces will

    grade from the base size up to the next size break andfrom the base size down to the next size break. Thismethod also allows a patternmaker to simulate themanual grading method.

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    Choose your method

    Grade Options arelocated in the Viewmenu of PatternDesign or the Viewmenu in the GradeRule Editor

    Hint: Grade options are set system wide not justper storage area. Any updates to this page will

    take immediate effect throughout the system.

    Grade Rule Editor

    Hint: By right clicking on the rule column or the X and Y columnsyou will be able to copy rules or search for existing rules.

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    Viewing the Grade/Grade Rules

    While using functions in Create/Edit Rules menu some grade rulesmay appear with an asterisk (*) or a pound sign (#).

    An asterisk (*) displays after the rule number if the grade point wascreated, or modified using many of the functions in the Grade Menu.

    The pound symbol (#) displays after a rule number if the grade rulewas generated by the system. This happens, for instance, whenusing Add Grade Point.

    Using Offsets

    Use this function in the Grademenu to create grade rulevalues based on perimeter linesrather than X and Y growthamounts.

    Check your options.

    Individual allows lines to gradeindependently.

    Prev/Next will allow one gradefor the previous line and anotherfor the next line.

    Always Both applies the samegrading to both lines at thecorner.

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    Match Line X & Y

    Both functions create new grade rules based on the gradedline length from another pattern. Below is an examplecopying the grade from a pant to a waistband using MatchLine X.

    Keep Angle grading

    Keep Angle Apex allowsyou to create a grade ruleat a point to maintain theangle of the base size atthat particular point for allsizes in the nest.

    In this example, after theneckline of the collar hasbeen graded, the KeepAngle Apex function canbe used to grade the collarpoint so that it is the sameangle on all sizes.

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    Keep Angle grading

    Keep Angle Edge Ext -used to create a graderule at a point, maintainthe angle for all sizes,and grade the pointfollowing the sameprojected angle of thebase pattern.

    Grading Internals

    The functions Intersection X, Intersection y, IntersectParallel, Intersection Offset, Intersection Internals, andIntersection Proportional can be used individually or incombination to grade internal lines so that they intersectwith the perimeter.

    Before

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    Edit Size Lines

    Change Base Dimensions

    Change Base Size

    Grading Notches

    Tangent grading is used on notches to control notchpositioning along curve shapes. One advantage of this

    grading is that it maintains the smoothness of a curve asa notch is graded. A Tangent grade rule uses only onevalue, as opposed to two values (X and Y) required indelta grading.

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    F Rotation

    F Rotation allows youto grade or makepattern changes on ahorizontal axis for abias or crossgrainpiece in PDS.

    Once ordered thepiece will rotate backto the bias position.

    Checking the Grade

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    Measurement Charts

    Measurement charts allow using Measurefunctions, such as Measure/Line and Distance 2Point, to create a spec sheet with all of thegraded values for a specific model or style.

    Get Organized

    Create a grading toolbar to have quick,easy access to the functions youll use themost

    Go to the View menu select CustomToolbars

    The must haves Show all sizes, GradeRules, Clear Nest, Assign Rule Table,

    Change Grade Rule, Copy Grade Rule,Edit Delta

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    Get Organized

    Remember to look inother categories forvaluable gradingfunctions like the viewand notch menus