FERMENTED VEGETABLES

This is a sampling of pages from

2014 by Kirsten Shockey and Christopher Shockey

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Photography by Erin Kunkel

Illustrations by Daniel Everett

Why We Ferment, 11

PART 1Dipping into the BrineFERMENTATION FUNDAMENTALS

14

CHAPTER 1 Back to the Future: Vegetable Fermentation as Preservation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

CHAPTER 2 The Inner Life of Pickling: The Science behind Vegetable Fermentation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

CHAPTER 3 Crocks and Rocks: The Tools of the Trade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

PART 2Mastering the BasicsKRAUT, CONDIMENTS, PICKLES, AND KIMCHI

48

CHAPTER 4 Mastering Sauerkraut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53

CHAPTER 5 Mastering Condiments: Variations on Kraut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

CHAPTER 6 Mastering Brine Pickling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77

CHAPTER 7 Mastering Kimchi Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87

CHAPTER 8 Practical Matters: Storage and Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95

PART 3In the CrockFERMENTING VEGETABLES A TO Z

102

Garden Vegetables and Herbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109

Arugula, 109

Asparagus, 110

Basil, 113

Beans, Green, 116

Beets, 119

Broccoli, 127

Brussels Sprouts, 127

Burdock (Gobo), 129

Cabbage, Green and Savoy, 131

Cabbage, Napa or Chinese, 140

Cabbage, Red, 147

Carrots, 148

Cauliflower, 151

Celeriac, 156

Celery, 158

Chard, 160

Cilantro (Coriander), 160

Collard Greens, 163

Corn, 165

Cucumbers, 166

Eggplant, 174

Escarole, 176

Fennel, 178

Garlic, 180

Garlic Scapes, 183

Grape Leaves, 184

Horseradish, 185

Jicama, 187

Kohlrabi, 189

Leeks, 191

Mushrooms, 193

Mustard Greens, 195

Okahijiki Greens (Saltwort), 197

Okra, 199

Onions, 201

Pak Choi (Bok Choy), 205

Parsley, 206

Parsnips, 208

Peas, 210

Peppers, 212

Radicchio, 218

Radishes, 219

Rapini (Broccoli Rabe), 222

Rhubarb, 223

Rutabaga, 225

Scallions (Green Onions), 226

Shiso, 228

Spinach, 233

Sunchokes, 236

Sweet Potatoes, 237

Tomatillos, 240

Tomatoes, 241

Turmeric, 243

Turnips, 245

Winter Squash, 248

Zucchini and Other Summer

Squash, 252

Foraged Vegetables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258

Dandelion Flowers, Leaves, and Roots, 259

Lambs-Quarters, 261

Nettles, 263

Ramps, 264

Watercress, 265

Fruits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267

Apples, 267

Citrus Fruits, 270

Cranberries, 273

PART 4On the Plate 276

CHAPTER 9 Breakfast: Culture for the Gutsy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .281

CHAPTER 10 Snacks: A Pickle a Day Keeps the Doctor Away . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .291

CHAPTER 11 Lunch: Ferments on the Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .301

CHAPTER 12 Happy Hour: Crocktails . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .323

CHAPTER 13 Dinner: Brine and Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .329

CHAPTER 14 Dessert: Really? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .349

Appendix: Scum The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly, 356

Resources, 360

Bibliography, 363

Acknowledgments, 366

Index, 367

So You Want to Ferment without Salt?Any serious fermentista will encounter salt-phobic people who try to make salt-free sauerkraut or want to convince you to do the same. There are certainly a lot of recipes out there on the Web; some require a blender, some use seaweed or celery seeds in place of salt. With care and luck, fermentation can be accomplished without the salt, and some people do so successfully. Expect these ferments to be softer and at times mushy.

But why not use salt in your ferments? Our bodies need salt anyway. Without it we die. A study pub-lished in the American Journal of Medicine in 2006 reads, Sodium intake of less than 2300 mg [the daily recommended allowance] was associated with a 37% increase in cardiovascular disease mortality and a 28% increase of all-cause mortality. In other words, without the correct balance of salt and water, the systems in our body stop functioning. As with most things, common sense and balance are key.

RELISHES/CHUTNEYS/SALSAS/SALADS VISUAL GUIDE

2. Work in the salt.1. Thinly slice the vegetables.

3. Cover the vegetables and set aside to allow brine to develop.

4. Press the vegetables under the brine.

MAsTERIng CondIMEnTs67

RELISHES/CHUTNEYS/SALSAS/SALADS VISUAL GUIDE

6. Ready for long-term storage, with a piece of waxed paper in place to impede evaporation.

5. Submerged and weighted = healthy environment for fermentation.

68MAsTERIng THE BAsICs

1. Chop or pulse the veggies to a fine consistency.

3. Place a ziplock bag on the surface of the ferment, and fill the bag to the jar rim with water to create weight.

2. Press the paste to remove air pockets and bring brine to the surface.

4. Ready for long-term storage, with a piece of waxed paper in place to impede evaporation.

PASTES AND BASES VISUAL GUIDE

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WHOLE-LEAF FERMENTS VISUAL GUIDE

1. Fresh leaves before salt is added. 2. Leaves wilted by salt.

The Taste Test: Navigating through the Scum to the Kraut on the Other SideWhen its time to taste-test your ferment, be warned: there may be scum, blooms of yeasts, or molds on top of your followers, or even on your ferment. Take your time and follow these directions.

1. Remove the weight.

2. Wipe the insides of your jar or crock with a clean towel carefully so as not to disturb the fer-ment or the scum.

3. Gently remove the follower. There is often sediment on top of the follower; try not to disturb it too much.

4. You will be looking at the primary follower; if it is leaves, lift them out carefully, collecting any stray floating vegetable bits in with them; discard. If it is plastic wrap and there is brine on top, ladle out any extra floating vegetable bits. Pull out the plastic wrap, folding it over to catch any sediment (this sediment is not harmful but may impart a flavor).

5. If the ferment is completely under the brine, it will be good. If the brine level is low and close to the surface of the ferment, there may be some soft or off-color areas; simply remove these parts. The ferment underneath will be fine and ready to taste.

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SEASONINGS

You can make simple savory seasonings by dehydrating fermented veggies and grinding them in a blender. When the brine is evaporated, you are left with the original salt and the concentrated flavor of the vegetable. For example, the Simple Beet Kraut pictured below (page 120) makes a lovely deep pink tangy spice, which is not only stunning sprinkled on top of a salad but also delicious. If you dont eat it too quickly, dehydrate your kimchi for instant kimchi spice. Many a ferment can make a perfect seasoning dehydrated as is. Some ferments are fun to jazz up even more with other herbs and spices, or even sesame seeds, like Shiso Gomashio (page 229). And these seasonings are shelf stable, so they can live and probiotically season your food straight from the cabinet for months. Dehydrating can also be a strategy for clearing out older krauts from the fridge when you are ready to make more. To make seasonings:

1. Drain the brine from the ferment by letting it sit in a strainer over a bowl for 30 minutes, or by putting it in cheesecloth and actively squeezing out the juice. You want to get the loose drippy moisture out; you dont need to squeeze it completely dry.

3. Spread the ferment out on a tray or baking sheet and dry for 8 to 10 hours or overnight in a dehydrator at 100F.

3. Shelf life for dried krauts is 6 months at room temperature. The lower the temperature, the longer the shelf life (for example, 60F increases viability to 12 to 18 months). Refrigerate or freeze in airtight containers for long-term storage.

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NAKED KRAUT, page 132

SWEET PEPPER SALSA, page 215

PICKLED GARLIC SCAPES, page 184 ONION AND PEPPER

RELISH (made with habanero), page 203

FENNEL CHUTNEY, page 178

SIMPLE BEET KRAUT, page 120

CHIPOTLE SQUASH KRAUT, page 249FERMENTED SHISO

LEAVES, page 228

GADO GADO SCHMEAR, page 284

HERB SCHMEAR, page 282

KRAUTCHEESE, page 284

SMOKY KRAUT QUICHE

KRAUT BALLS

BACON-WRAPPED DOG

FISH TACOS, page 309

SUSHI-NORIMAKI

KIMCHI LATKES, page 335

GRILLED CHICKEN WITH FERMENTED SWEET POTATOES AND PEANUT SAUCE