a practical way to introduce a worldwide jewellery ethcial trade system
DESCRIPTION
A PRACTICAL WAY TO INTRODUCE A WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY ETHCIAL TRADE SYSTEM. Andrew Cody & Dr Michael Hopkins Rapaport Fair Trade Conference. Labour issues Environmental issues Who receives the returns Treatments. Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions - PowerPoint PPT PresentationTRANSCRIPT
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Andrew Cody &Dr Michael HopkinsRapaport Fair Trade Conference
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• Labour issues
• Environmental issues
• Who receives the returns
• Treatments
Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions
Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Trees Wildlife
Political Terrorists Money Laundering Smuggling
Disclosure Safety issues
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Wholesale &
Distribution
Retailer
CONSUMER
Hundreds of Countries with a myriad of cultures and standards.
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First Tier
What makes a mining operation Ethical?
Labour issues
Human Rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety considerations Community Benefits Community displacements
Environmental issues Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Trees Wildlife
Who receives the returns Political? Terrorists? Smuggling Money laundering
Treatments
Disclosure Safety issues-irradiation Permancy of treatment Environmental impact
Large Scale Miners-Small Scale Miners
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Gold Claims around the world
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Metal Refining Process
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Global Diamond Deposits
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• Afghanistan & Tajikistan• Argentina• Australia• Bolivia• Brazil• Cambodia
• Canada• China• Colombia• Congo• Dominican Republic• Ethiopia & Somalia
• Guatemala• Honduras• India• Iran• Kenya• Laos
• Madagascar• Malawi• Mexico• Mozambique• Myanmar• Namibia
• Nigeria• Pakistan• Peru• Russia• South Africa• Sri Lanka
• Tanzania• Thailand• Turkey• Uruguay• USA• Vietnam
• Zambia
Top 39 Gemstone Supplier Countries
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Pearl Harvest
Pearl Farm
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Ethical Trade Issues Facing First Tier - Mining
• Labour issues
• Environmental issues
• Who receives the returns
• Treatments
Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions Displacement of communities
Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Trees Wildlife
Political Terrorists Money Laundering Smuggling
Disclosure Safety issues
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Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions Displacement of communities
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Child Labour in Mining Human rights
Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions Displacement of communities
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Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions Displacement of communities
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Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions Displacement of communities
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Human rights Youth Wages & Conditions Safety conditions Displacement of communities
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Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Trees Wildlife
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Environmental Impacts
Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Trees Wildlife
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Chemical pollution Landscape scarring Trees Wildlife
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Political Terrorists Money Laundering Smuggling
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Political Terrorists Money Laundering Smuggling
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Political Terrorists Money Laundering Smuggling
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Political Terrorists Money Laundering Smuggling
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Disclosure Safety issues
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203 Sovereign StatesDifferent CulturesDifferent StandardsDifferent Rules
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Other Problems Associated with Implementing Ethical Trade
• Different Products- Gemstones & Metals • Different Supplier Countries
• Different Cultures
• Different Economic Structures
• Different Labour Standards
Each of the previously mentioned issues will vary according to :
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Large miners will be easier to regulate
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What about the thousands of small miners?
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I can’t see this man being regulated easily!
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2nd Tier
• Environment• Treatments• Safety Issues
• Labour Conditions*• Chemicals• Treatment disclosures*• Accurate Descriptions
• Full Disclosure• Harmonisation
• Disclosure• Safety
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Third Tier
• Integrity-Deal only with Ethically Trading miners & manufacturers• Guarantees• Full Disclosure of treatments
Fourth Tier
• Integrity• Honesty• Buys from a source he believes is ethical• Guarantees• Discloses Treatments
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Responsible Jewellery Council MembersTrade Associations• The American Gem Society• British Jewellers Association• Jewellers of America• Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America Inc.• National Mining Association• The National Association of Goldsmiths• World Gold Council
Service Industries (inc. financial institutions)• Int. Diamond and Jewellery Group ABN-AMRO• The Assay Office
Mining• AngloGold Ashanti• Arslanian Freres NV• Bonas & Co. Ltd• Dalumi Diamonds• Diarough N.V. • Dimexon Diamonds• HRA Investments Ltd• I.Hennig & Co. Ltd• Lazare Kaplan International Inc.• Overseas Dimaonds NV / Isee2• Rosy Blue N.V.• Rothschild Diamonds Ltd• Sima Diamond NV• Steinmetz• Suashish Diamonds
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Responsible Jewellery Council Members
Gold Refining Hedging or Trading• Argor-Heraeus SA• Metalor Tchnologies SA• PAMP SA• PX Precinox SA• Valcambi SA
Jewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale• AR & AR Jewellery Inc• Aurafin LLC• Baume & Mercier• Boite D’Or Gioielli S.R.L.• Carrera y Carrera• C&J Jewelry• Cendres+Mé:taux SA• Christian Bernard• Colormasters Gem Corp• Cristofol Paris
Jewellery Manufacturing or Wholesale• DN Gems Corp• Gabriel & Co• Jaeger-LeCoultre• J.B. Jewelry• Leo Schachter Diamonds LLC• Libman & Company Ltd• Kristall Inc.• Regal Imports Ltd• Robertso Coin• Stubbs and Co
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Responsible Jewellery Council Members
Retail• Argos Ltd• Ben Bridge Jeweler•Borsheims•Boucheron•Brown Goldsmiths•Bulgari S.p.A•Cartier•Chanel Horlogerie/Joaillerie•Day’s Jewellery•Element Jewellery•Gomez & Molina Joyeros•Goodmans Jewelers Inc•Hamilton Jewellers•Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design Ltd•Harry Winston•H. Cunningham Fine Jewelry Inc.•Helzberg Diamonds•Ice cool.co.uk
•JCPenney•Jewellery By Varouj Inc•Larter and Sons•Leber Jeweler Inc.•Lux Bond & Green•Marissa D. Harvey •Montblanc•Moet Hennessy – Louis Vuitton• Nicholas James•Piaget•Precious Metals•Reis-Nichols Inc.•Signet Group plc.•Simms II Jewelers•Tiffany & Co.•Transparence S. A.•Van Cleef & Arpels •WhiteFlash.com•Zale Corporation
Current membership is approximately 90 organisations.
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But there are 100’s of thousands of businesses involved…
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Are these people trading ethically?
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Wholesale &
Distribution
Retailer
CONSUMER
Rules & Regulations are extremely complex.
Rules & Regulations are complex.
Rules & Regulations are moderate and rules for Ethical Trade already exist.
Rules & Regulations are simple and rules for Ethical Trade already exist.
WANTS ETHICAL TRADE!
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Are they ethical traders?
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1200 Members
If one third of members agreed to join CIBJO’s Ethical Trade System, then it would raise $200,000 revenue annually if the cost of joining was $500 US per business.
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Austria
Argentina
Australia
Brazil
Belgium
Canada
China
Egypt
Finland
Netherlands
New Zealand
Norway
Portugal
Russia
Saudi Arabia
Singapore
South Africa
South Korea
France
Germany
Greece
Hong Kong
India
Israel
Italy
Japan
Mexico
Spain
Sweden
Switzerland
Thailand
Turkey
UAE
United Kingdom
United States
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The local organisation can administer the running of the Ethical Trade system within its country or region.
CIBJO-world jewllery confederation, can oversee the local approved organisations and also arrange third party verification through responsible auditors.
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ICA
Code of Ethics
Japan Jewellers AssociationCode of Ethics
AGTA
Code of Ethics
Colored Diamond
Association
Code Of Ethics
TGJTA
Code of Eth
ics
JAA
Code
of E
thics
International Colored Gemstone Association
Thai Gem & Jewellery Traders Association
Gemological Institute of America
Gemmological Association of Australia
Jewellers Association of Australia
Japan Jewellery Association
American Gem Trade Association
The Gemmological Association of Great Britain
British Jewellers Association
ETC
Examples of Industry Codes of Ethics at work
Codes of Ethics contain rules by which members must abide.
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Don’t set the bar too high initially.
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ETHICAL TRADERRETAILER CAT 3
2009
ETHICAL TRADERMINER CAT 3
2009
ETHICAL TRADERMANUFACTURER CAT 3
2009
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ETHICAL TRADERMANUFACTURER CAT 3
2009
Entry or Benchmark level
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ETHICAL TRADERMINER CAT 3
2009
Awarded to members whose standards are high.
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ETHICAL TRADERRETAILER CAT 3
2009
Highest level- may require donations to a charitable fund
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Wholesale &
Distribution
Retailer
CONSUMER
Rules & Regulations are extremely complex.
Rules & Regulations are complex.
Rules & Regulations are moderate and rules for Ethical Trade already exist.
Rules & Regulations are simple and rules for Ethical Trade already exist.
WANTS ETHICAL TRADE!
$ $
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Wholesale &
Distribution
Retailer
CONSUMER
Rules & Regulations are extremely complex.
Rules & Regulations are complex.
Rules & Regulations are moderate and rules for Ethical Trade already exist.
Rules & Regulations are simple and rules for Ethical Trade already exist.
WANTS ETHICAL TRADE!
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The people who suffer on the mines can’t afford to wait too long -let’s work together to try and make Ethical Trade a reality.