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A Perfumer’s TrainingThe Heart of the Art

Fragrance Books Inc. @www.perfumerbook.com

Glen O. Brechbill

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Perfume Is Fragrance Ingredients

- Natural Ingredients- How can we get the Natural Ingredients? ( IFRA )

- Chemical Ingredients

Perfume Visualization

Fragrance Analogies / Fine Fragrance

The Balanced Fragrance - Evaluation & Perfumery

Contents

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Fragrance isFragrance is……

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Fragrance isFragrance is……

• Perfume is a creation from mixture of fragrance ingredientsthat together create a harmonious blend.

• Perfume comes from sense of smell from Perfumer’s memory& art.

• The term of perfume comes from the Latin “Per fumum” or “Profumum” that is, “ through smoke” or “for smoke”, supposed theoldest use of fragrance mixtures, as a religious offering of thesmoke of incense

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Fragrance IngredientsFragrance Ingredients

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The Language of Fragrance

Adoxal Sweet floral waxy rosy referred to as ozone like.Alcohol C - 8 Strong fresh, orange rose like waxy and sweet odor.Alcohol C - 9 Powerful oil floral fresh like, dilution - rosy.Aldehyde C - 14 Strong peach note.Aldehyde C - 16 Strawberry sweet fruity candy like.Allyl Amyl Glycolate Strong fruity pineappleAlpha Damascone Intensely fruity reminiscent of plums and roses.Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde Herbaceous floral material suggestive of many types of flowers.Amyl Salicylate Sweet herbaceous green slightly floralAnisyl Alcohol Mildly floral sweet odor reminiscent of vanillaApplinal Strong, sweet with a warm woody balsamic background, apple.Argumen Aldehyde Floral aldehydic hyacinth type odor.Aubepine Intensely sweet floral odor reminiscent of hawthorne.Benzaldehyde Strong sweet odor of bitter almonds.Benzophenone Powdery geranium rose LikeBenzyl Acetate Powerful thin sweet fresh fruity floral odor of jasmin & other flowers.Benzyl Alcohol Faint, non descript odor, rather sweet varies.Benzyl Benzoate Faintly sweet balsamic.Benzyl Propionate Fruity sweet.Benzyl Salicylate Very faint yet sweet and floralBergamot Eco Essence A sweet fruity odor typical of the bergamot orange.Birch Tar Oil Powerful phenolic, tarry woody smoky, leathery.Bois De Rose Oil Floral odor reminiscent of rose orange.Cashmeran Diffusive musk.Cedarwood Oil of Virginia Oily woody almost sweet mild pleasant, cedar chest like odor.Cinnamic Aldehyde Warm spicy balsamic odor suggestive of cassia, cinnamon.Citronellol Oil Coeur Fresh rosy, floral rosy.

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• Natural: Obtained from Plants/ Expenssive. / About 200 items

Fragrance Ingredients - NaturalFragrance Ingredients - Natural

From Plants

Flowers: Jasmine, Rose, Hyacinth, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, Orange Flower…..Leaves: Peppermint, Geranium, Patchouli….Peel: Lemon Lime Orange Grapefruit, Mandarin Bergamot….Trees: Sandalwood, Cedarwood ….Fruits : Anise, Coriander, Nutmeg…Roots: Vertiver, Orris, ….Resin: Glabanum, Myrrh, Oribanum, Balsam

From Animals

Musk , Civet, Castoreum, Ambergris…...

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Expression: is used exclusively for obtaining citrus oil, which is easilydamaged by heat- called “Cold-pressed”. Orange oil, Lemon oil,Bergamot oil, Mandarin oil, Grapefruit oil.

Extraction: is proceeded by which aromatic substances are drawn orleached out of the raw material by means of solvent(petroleum, hexane,ethanol….) Included Enfleurage.

Distillation: is in other words evaporation and subsequent condensationof liquid.

How can we get the Natural Ingredients?How can we get the Natural Ingredients?

Absolute or Concrete

Essential Oil

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• Chemical:

Aroma Chemicals can be produced from natural as well as syntheticraw materials. Obtained from Petroleum and Coal.

Cheap & Easy available

For examples, Aldehyde, Galaxolide, Iso E Super, Calone 1951.

Fragrance Ingredients - ChemicalFragrance Ingredients - Chemical

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Fragrance VisualizationFragrance Visualization

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100 Lbs. Divided by 2.2046 = 45.36 Divided by 1,000 = .0453

.0453 x Parts = Grams Per Item = 1,000 Parts

Costing Out a Fragrance

The Formula - Converting Pounds into Kilos

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Pine Fragrance - All Purpose Cleaner

291 Pine Oil Yarmor 302 1.03 .300167 Iso Bornyl Acetate 1.35 .22539 Alpha Pinene 2.25 .08818 Eucalyptol 5.76 .104 3 Camphor Powder 2.00 .006 27 Galaxolide 50 8.75 .236 52 Alpha Terpineol 1.22 .063 26 Benzyl Salicylate 4.05 .105 24 Benzyl Benzoate 1.60 .038 23 Ionone Beta Pure 17.10 .393 3 Patchwood 1.60 .038 11 Vertenex 2.45 .026 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate .860 .029 19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 3.00 .057 28 Cedarwood Oil of Virginia 6.20 .174 1 Piconia 12.80 .012 12 Fir Needle Canadian 10.75 .132 17 Coumarin 7.50 .128 20 Santalex T - Sandela 6.50 .130152 Di Propylene Glycol .64 .097 33 Terpinyl Acetate 1.80 .033

1,000 $ 2.408

Parts Aroma Price Per Pound Raw Material Impact

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The Composition - Pine Fragrance

291 Pine Oil Yarmor 302167 Iso Bornyl Acetate 39 Alpha Pinene 18 Eucalyptol 3 Camphor Powder 27 Galaxolide 50 52 Alpha Terpineol 26 Benzyl Salicylate 24 Benzyl Benzoate 23 Ionone Beta Pure 3 Patchwood - Pfw - Fragrance Contest 11 Vertenex 34 Di Ethyl Phthalate 19 Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 28 Cedarwood Oil of Virginia 1 Piconia 12 Fir Needle Canadian 17 Coumarin 20 Santalex T - Sandela152 Di Propylene Glycol 36 Terpinyl Acetate

1,000

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Fragrance VisualizationFragrance Visualization

Top note : “First Impression” in Perfume. High Volatile.

Citrus, Fresh, Green notes…..

Middle note : “ Heart of fragrance”. Intermediate Volatile

Floral, Aldehydic notes…..

Base note : “ Basic of fragrance”.(Bottom) Low Volatile Woody, Powdery, Musky …..

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Basic Fragrance Families Basic Fragrance FamiliesBasic Fragrance Families

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• Aldehydic

• Chypre

• Citrus

• Floral

Basic Fragrance FamiliesBasic Fragrance Families

• Fougere

• Oriental

• Spicy

• Gourmand

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• Citrus notes Citrus + Floral

Representative IngredientsNatural : Lemon Oil, Bergamote, Lime….Chemical : Citral, Dihydo Myrcenol….

Representative Fine Fragrance

O de Lancome (1975. Lancome)Bulgari Eau Parfume (1992. Bulgari)CK one (1994. C.Klein)

Eau Savage (1966.C.Dior)

BergamotLemonOrange

Rose Jasmine

Lily of Valley

OakmossAmbergris

Civet

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• Citrus notes

BergamotLemon

MandarinDihydro Myrcenol

JasminMuguet

AmberMusk

Sandalwood

Green

Citrus

Floral

Amber

Woody Musk

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• Floral notes Floral + Floral

Representative IngredientsNatural : Jasmin Abs, Ylang-Ylang, Rose Abs. Tuberose Chemical : Hedione, Benzyl Acetate

Representative Fine Fragrance

Joy (1935. Jean Patou)Diorssimo (1956.C.Dior)Anais Anais (1979. Cacharel)Paris (1983. YSL)Beautiful (1985. E. Lauder)

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Green

JasmineRose

Ylang-YlangViolet

Muguet

MuskSandalwood

Powdery

Green

Floral

MuskWoodyPowdery

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• Aldehydic notes Floral + Aldehydic

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Aldehyde 10Muguet

Ylang-Ylang

JasmineRose

CarnationAldehyde C-11Aldehyde C-12

VanillaSandalwood

Musk

Floral

Aldehydic

WoodyPowder

Representative IngredientsNatural: Not available Chemical: Aldehyde C-11, Aldehyde C-12.

Representative Fine Fragrance

Chanel No. 5 (1921. Chanel)Calandre (1969. 1969. Rabanne)First (1976. Van Cleef & Arpels)

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• Spicy notes Floral + Spicy

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BergamotYlang-Ylang

CarnationJasmine

RoseIris

SandalwoodCedarwood

Musk

Floral

Spicy Floral

WoodyMusk

Representative IngredientsNatural: Clove Buds oil, Pepper oil, Cinnamon oil. Carnation Chemical: Eugenol, Cinnamic Aldehyde

Representative Fine Fragrance

L’air du Temps (1948. Nina Ricci)Fidji (1966. Guy Laroche)

Egoist (1990. Chanel)

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• Chypre notes

Citrus Green

Aldehyde

Floral (Jasmine, Rose, Ylang…)

WoodyMossy

Patchouli

Representative Fine Fragrance

Mitsouko (1919. Guerlain)Miss Dior (1947. Christian Dior)Coco (1984. Chanel)Ysatis (1984. Givenchy)

Representative IngredientsNatural : Oak moss Abs. Vertiver, Patchouli oil Galbanum Cederwood, SandalwoodChemical: Veramoss, Iso E Super.

What is Chypre….?

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BergamotMandarinGalbanum

Aldehyde C-11

JasmineRose

Ylang-YlangMuguet

AmberMossy

PatchouliMossyWoody

Oriental

CitrusGreenAldehyde

Floral

AmberWoodyMossy

• Chypre notes - Fine Fragrance

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• Oriental notes

Representative Fine Fragrance

Shalimar (1925. Guelain)Obsession (1984. Calvin Klein)Opium (1977. YSL)Samsara (1989. Guelain)Jean Paul Gaultier (1993. J.P.Gaultier)

Representative IngredientsNatural: Vanilla, Tolu Balsam, Mandarin,CinnamonChemical: Vanillin, Galaxolide.

Citrus Mandarin

Lemon

Spicy( cinnamon..)Floral

Vanilla Abs.Sweet

Balsam

What is Oriental?

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BergamotOrange

JasmineRose

TuberoseOrangeflower

VanillaAmber

Castoreum

Citrus

Floral

WoodyPowdery

• Oriental notes - Fine Fragrance

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• Fougere notes

Representative Fine Fragrance

Brut (1964. Faberge)Drakkar Noir (1982. Guy Laroche)Paco Rabanne (1973. Paco Rabanne)Cool Water (1988. Davidoff)

HerbaciousBergamotLavender

Floral (Muguet, Geranium, Carnation)

PowderyMossyWoody

Representative IngredientsNatural: Lavender, Lavendin, EucalyptusChemical: Lavender Spike Oil, Carvone-L..….

What is Fougere?

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BergamotLavendin

CloveSpearmint

MuguetGeraniumCarnation

PowderyMossy

Cederwood

Herbaceous

Floral

WoodyPowdery

• Fougere notes - Fine Fragrance

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The Balanced FragranceThe Balanced Fragrance( IFRA )( IFRA )

Advertising, Analytical, Chemistry,Advertising, Analytical, Chemistry,Creative Directors, Customer Service,Creative Directors, Customer Service,

Evaluation, LaboratoryEvaluation, LaboratoryManagement, MarketingManagement, Marketing

Public Relations, PurchasingPublic Relations, PurchasingSales,Test PanelsSales,Test Panels

& of course

The Artist - Perfumer ( Nose )The Artist - Perfumer ( Nose )

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ECONOMY

ART SCIENCE

• The Balanced fragrance for Evaluation

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• The Balanced fragrance for Evaluation

CITRUS

ALDEHYDIC

L-FRUITY

GREEN

HERBAL

WOODY

POWDERY

SPICY

H-FRUITY

MUSKY

ANIMALIC

VIOLET

IRIS

JASMINE

TUBEROSE

MUGUET

CARNATION

ROSE

TOP

BOTTOM

BRIDGE : FLORAL

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