a little spring time dress
TRANSCRIPT
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A Little Spring Time Dress
* * * A funny story to get you started** * - When I was finishing this
dress and working on the chest piece my daughter came out andexclaimed "It has boobies on it! You made the boobies on it!!" - It
made me laugh so hard and I just knew I would have to share. :)
Hook: G
Material: I Love This Cotton
Gauge: 3 rows = 1”, 3 st = 1” (between 3& 4 stitches equals an
inch, not a perfect 3 stitches)
Hints & Tips
- Chains at the start of any row do not count as a st so always put
the first st in the same st as the ch
- When you join with a ch 1 (like when you’ll change colors or start
on the chest piece) you will join with a sl st and a ch 1
- To make counting your rows easier, instead of moving the stitchmarker up, use a new stitch marker for each row.
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- When changing color, to keep the rows looking even
but mostly avoid a seam, you will want to sl st to join the last st to
the first st, ch 1 (only 1) and then do the normal st by pulling the
yarn through that stitch and the sl st that joined the two stitches.You will essentially be doing a normal join whenever changing
colors to help keep the rows looking even.
- Though you will repeat round 1 throughout the pattern, you will
notrepeat the chain 1 instruction in round 1 in any round BUT
round 1.
How to change color:- To change color, you will join the final stitch of the round
BEFORE you change color to the first st in that round. You will
then take the second color, join in the same st that you joined to
(so the first st) with a sl st and a ch 1 – one good way to join,
instead of the sl st and ch 1 is a standing sc or a standing dc
Special stitches:- Double stitch decrease – A decrease that uses both a
double crochetand a single crochet to keep the alternate stitch
appearance
Colors:
- Pink – MC
-
Purple – A- Blue – C
Size: 2-3T
Foundation Row – With MC, Create a chainless row of 67 sc, join
to first sc with sl st making sure not to twist
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Round 1) Ch 1, *sc in next st, dc in next st* around, mark last st,
do not join with sl st
Round 2) *dc in next st, sc in next st* (should stagger with round1) around, move stitch marker up, do not join with sl st
Round 3 & 6) Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (skip the ch 1)
Change to color A
Round 7) Join with sRepeat round 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to color B
Round 8) Repeat round 2
Change to color A
Round 9) Repeat round 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to MC
Round 10) repeat round 2
Round 11 - 16) Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (skip the ch 1)
Change to color B
Round 17 & 18) Repeat rounds 2 & 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to color A
Round 19 & 20) Repeat rounds 2 & 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to color B
Round 21 & 22) Repeat rounds 2 & 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to MC
Round 23 – 29) Repeat rounds 2 & 1 (skip the ch 1)
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Change to Color A
Round 30) Repeat round 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to Color B
Round 31) Repeat round 2
Change to Color A
Round 32) Repeat round 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to MC
Round 33 – 39) Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (skip the ch 1
Change to Color B
Round 40 & 41) Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (skip the ch 1),
Change to Color A
Round 42 & 43) Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (skip the ch 1)Change to Color B
Round 44 & 45) Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (skip the ch 1)
Change to MC
Round 46-52) Repeat round 1 & 2,
Change to Color A
Round 53) Repeat round 1,
Change to Color B
Round 54) Repeat round 2,
Change to Color A
Round 55) Repeat round 1
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Change to MC
Round 56) Repeat round 2
Round 57) Repeat round 1, join to first st (it will be the st after the
marked st) with sl st, tie off.
To start top of dress, line up the seam so that it is in the back of
the dress. Using 2 stitch markers, mark 1 stitch (on the
right side of the front of the dress) and then the 22nd
stitch from it
– the first stitch you mark isn’t a specific stitch, just make surethat the seam is in the back and won’t be visible between the two
stitches you mark.
Row 1) Join in st with ch 1, dc in first st (my joining st was a sc so
I made a dc to start), *sc in next st, dc in next st* until you have 11
stitches
Row 2) Ch 1, turn, double st dec (sc first, then dc), *dc in next st,
sc in next st*to last 2 st, double st dec again (dc first, then sc)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, double st dec (sc first, then dc), *sc in next st,
dc in next st* to last 2 st, double st dec again (dc first, then sc)
Row 4 - 5) Repeat row 2 & 3 (until 3 st remain)
Row 6) Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, dc in next st, sc in last st
Row 7) Ch 1, turn, dc in next st, sc in next st, dc in last st
Row 8 – 20) Repeat row 6 and 7
Other chest strap:
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Join with ch 1 in st directly next to the last st from row 1 of
first chest strap
Row 1) Ch 1, *sc in first st, dc in next st*to marked stitch (shouldbe 11 st)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, double st dec (dc first, then sc), *dc in next st,
sc in next st* to last 2 st, double st dec again (sc first, then dc)
Row 3) Ch 1, turn, double st dec (dc first, then sc), *dc in next st,
sc in next st*to last 2 st, double st dec again (sc first, then dc)
Row 4 -5) Repeat row 2 & 3
Row 6) Ch 1, turn, dc in next st, sc in next st, dc in last st
Row 7) Ch 1, turn, dc in next st, sc in next st, dc in last st
Row 8 – 20) repeat row 6 & 7
Edging:
Join in back of dress with ch 1 (you want to work in a direction so
that the front of the st is the outside of the dress to keep
a uniform look), sc in every st around including straps, join to
first st with sl stSew straps to back of dress.
Working in each arm hole, do another row of edging until you
reach the strap, sl st across the strap and return to the sc edging -
this is for the arm hole only, not the neck hole.
Join in back of dress where the collar is, sl st in every st around
collar and then tie off.
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Size 4-5T
Foundation Row – Create a chainless row of 73 sc, join to first scwith sl st making sure not to twist
Round 1) Ch 1, *sc in next st, dc in next st* around, mark last st,
do not join with sl st
Round 2) *dc in next st, sc in next st* (should stagger with round
1) around, move stitch marker up, do not join with sl st
Round 3 - 6) Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (skip the ch 1)
Change to color A
Round 7) Repeat round 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to color B
Round 8) Repeat round 2
Change to color A
Round 9) Repeat round 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to MC
Round 10) repeat round 2
Round 11 - 16) Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (skip the ch 1)
Change to color B
Round 17 & 18) Repeat rounds 2 & 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to color A
Round 19 & 20) Repeat rounds 2 & 1 (skip the ch 1)
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Change to color B
Round 21 & 22) Repeat rounds 2 & 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to MC
Round 23 – 29) Repeat rounds 2 & 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to Color A
Round 30) Repeat round 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to Color B
Round 31) Repeat round 2
Change to Color A
Round 32) Repeat round 1 (skip the ch 1)
Change to MC
Round 33 – 39) Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (skip the ch 1Change to Color B
Round 40 & 41) Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (skip the ch 1),
Change to Color A
Round 42 & 43) Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (skip the ch 1)
Change to Color B
Round 44 & 45) Repeat rounds 1 & 2 (skip the ch 1)
Change to MC
Round 46-52) Repeat round 1 & 2,
Change to Color A
Round 53) Repeat round 1,
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Change to Color B
Round 54) Repeat round 2,
Change to Color A
Round 55) Repeat round 1
Change to MC
Round 56) Repeat round 2
Round 57) Repeat round 1, join to first st (it will be the st after themarked st) with sl st, tie off.
To start top of dress, line up the seam so that it is in the back of
the dress. Using 2 stitch markers, mark 1 stitch (on the
right side of the front of the dress) and then the 26th
sitch from it –
the first stitch you mark isn’t a specific stitch, just make sure that
the seam is in the back and won’t be visible between the twostitches you mark.
Row 1) Join in 1st marked st with ch 1, dc in first st (my joining st
was a sc so I made a dc to start), *sc in next st, dc in next st* until
you have 13 stitches
Row 2) Ch 1, turn, double st dec (sc first, then dc), *dc in next st,sc in next st*to last 2 st, double st dec again (dc first, then sc)
Row 3) ch 1, turn, double st dec (sc first, then dc), *sc in next st,
dc in next st* to last 2 st, double st dec again (dc first, then sc)
Row 4 - 6) Repeat row 2 & 3 (until 3 st remain)
Row 7) Ch 1, turn, sc in next st, dc in next st, sc in last st
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Row 8) Ch 1, turn, dc in next st, sc in next st, dc in last st
Row 9 – 23) Repeat row 6 and 7
Other chest strap:
Join with ch 1 in st directly next to the last st from row 1 of first
chest strap
Row 1) Ch 1, *sc in first st, dc in next st*to marked stitch (should
be 13 st)
Row 2) ch 1, turn, double st dec (dc first, then sc), *dc in next st,
sc in next st* to last 2 st, double st dec again (sc first, then dc)
Row 3) Ch 1, turn, double st dec (dc first, then sc), *dc in next st,
sc in next st*to last 2 st, double st dec again (sc first, then dc)
Row 4 -7) Repeat row 2 & 3
Row 6) Ch 1, turn, dc in next st, sc in next st, dc in last st
Row 7) Ch 1, turn, dc in next st, sc in next st, dc in last st
Row 8 – 23) repeat row 6 & 7
Edging:
Join in back of dress with ch 1 (you want to work in a direction so
that the front of the st is the outside of the dress to keep a uniform
look), sc in every st around including straps, join to first st with sl
st
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Sew straps to back of dress – you’ll have 16 stitches between
where you join the straps which should be directly across from the
front of the straps.
Working in each arm hole, do another row of edging until you
reach the strap, sl st across the strap and return to the sc edging -
this is for the arm hole only, not the neck hole.
Join in back of dress where the collar is, sl st in every st around
collar and then tie off.
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