1. A Full Life Cycle Sue Hyunsoo Kim Industrial Design Degree Project Rhode Island School of Design

2. New Port, RI

3. ABSTRACT Human society is in need of an integration of material, spiritual and ecological elements. The interdependence between these needs and the current technological systems tend to separate from one another. Industrialized society creates systems designed to reduce natural complexity than the diversity for sustainability. The challenge for humanity is to develop human design processes, which pertain us to remain in the natural context. Every phase of the design, manufacturing, and construction processes requires reconsideration for a global ecology. These frequent linear systems often result ignorant or indifferent means, which interrupt the interaction between humanity and nature. It is necessary for us to embrace design, environmental, and philosophical efforts to build a better future. As one of the most leading garment industries, leather industry plays a significant role in todays global economy. The industry exceptionally transforms animal hides into a chemically stable material by subjecting them to chemical and mechanical sequential processes, meeting various needs of people. The leather industry uses by-products of meat industry, which are hides and skins as raw materials. The industry could have been environmentally friendly and sustainable since it processes waste products from meat production. However, the leather industry has become to produce high pollution with chemical, organic wastes and high water consumption through manufacturing processes. Leather wastes generated from different processes are another inconsiderate and unnecessary system we have designed for nature. How can we minimize the waste and create a balance between manufacturing process and sustainable design through human needs? If the leather process remains within its traditional methods, designers are needed to adapt the leather waste towards sustainable ends. A Full Life Cycleis a thesis project, which investigates the waste stream in leather industry, especially in leather product development. The project underlines the precedents of current factory systems and creates a response to Toyota Production System, which highlights the history of lean manufacturing system. The research is based to explore creative design opportunities to eliminate physical waste, leather scraps, from the production system and create a methodology for a sustainable design. From material exploration to design prototypes, various iterations have been produced to create meaningful products with use of leather waste. The factory system, material variations, and manufacturing process all affect the waste stream in leather production; however, we must accept to eliminate the concept of waste to optimize the full life-cycle of leather products and processes to approach the state of natural systems, in which there is no waste.

4. LEATHER INDUSTRY RESEARCH A full investigation of current leather industry: from tanneries to product development factories. Research includes problem analysis, factory observation, and a literature reference to Toyota Production System.

5. The current leather waste is not a linear result from the tanning industry, but rather from an infinite cycle of obtaining raw material, material processing, component processing, and ultimately retail distribution. Each process generates different types of waste, but the most unconsciously disposed waste results from the product development. According to UNIDO,with some high quality items, only 40% of the surface Problem of the leather is usedin various leather product developments. The cutting rate for leather ranges from 25 to 60%, depending on the quality, type, size, and machine process-ability. Since the leather does not originate from a homogeneous, rectangular form, leather manufacturers ultimately cut around the area that areuseable.However, the conscious cutting decisions are not fully optimized for many leather productions; the cutting decisions depend on workersexperience and skills. Are the decisions on utilizing the full skin for the products optimized enough? Are the product manufacturers aware of their cutting rates? Or do the workers make the decisions unconsciously?

6. Vanson Leathers Brahmin Handbags American Leather Production Investigating New Englands leather production system, two case studies have compared and discussed: Vanson Leathers and Brahmin Handbags. Vanson Leathers is Americas largest manufacturer of leather motorcycle jackets and motorcycle riding apparel for men and women. Their manufacturing headquarter is located in Fall River, Massachusetts and known for obtaining all their materials within the United States. Observation With an in depth history of 40 years in the industry, Vanson is known as an American leather apparel brand for producing the top quality leather jackets for motorcycle enthusiasts. Similarly, Brahmin Handbags pertains a history of leading a timeless handbag design in the fashion industry. Brahmin is based in Fairhaven, Massachusetts, maintaining their original factory to be the only factory in the United States. The brand strives to expand their business globally through Chinese manufacturers.

7. There are several architectural typologies associated with the retrofitting of the lean manufacturing system within the confines of a leather production warehouse. It is interesting to note that most alterations that are inherently visible are more technology based. Larger computerized screens overlook the workforce, as in the case of Brahmin are absent at Vanson leathers. However due to the nature of the building typology housing, both production lines share supply levels at their clerestories. The conveyor belt is perhaps the most dramatic elimination from Brahmins setup. At Vansons Fall River factory, the company has a rolling bed spanning the length of the Vason & Brahmin production floor. In comparison to Vansons lengthy conveyor belt, Brahmin floors are rendered in polished concrete to grant smooth trafficking of trolleys carrying materials. In this case, the conveyor belt strategy is not ideal for Brahmin or any lean manufacturing organization simply because of the rigidity of the system and its independence from the distribution manager. Instead, Brahmins circulation is demarcated using painted strips similar to a street or runway, restricting employees work movement within the cells. For aesthetic purposes, this allows for a cleaner and more open environment where dirt can be addressed and scraps can easily be thrown into a bin. However, at Vanson Leathers, the wood paneled floors do not aid in the cells. For aesthetic purposes, this allows for a cleaner and more open environment where dirt can be addressed and scraps can easily be thrown into a bin. However, at Vanson Leathers, the wood paneled floors do not aid in the distribution of trolleys, and the open space between the working stations allows more freedom to their workers. It is interesting to note how the structural system of the factory is greatly influential in the streamlining of the process and the attitude of the environment for working in. One could argue however that polished concrete exudes a sense of incubation to deliver asweat-shop aesthetic. A far more personalized Vanson works in conjunct with their relationships and thrives to produce unique work tailored to customers of a certain social bracket. While extreme inefficiencies in waste production and environmental care are left unattended, there is a warm brought to the factory as curetted simply by human connection.

8. 7 Types ofMUDA DefectsOver ProductionT ransportation Wait Time ProcessingInventory Motion

9. For past decades, the Toyota Production System has been known as lean manufacturing system, which optimize quality by constantly improving processes and eliminating unnecessary waste in natural, human and corporate resources. The system influences every aspect of Toyotas organization and includes a common set of values, knowledge and procedures. It entrusts employees with well-defined responsibilities in each production step and encourages every team member to strive for overall improvement. Toyota Production System fulfills the customer demand Toyota Production System efficiently by linking all production activity to real marketplace demand. Inspired by American supermarkets,Just-in- Timeproduction relies on finely tuned processes in the assembly sequence using only the quantities of items required, only when they are needed. This production method eliminates any form of muda, or waste, such as overproduction, over-time, unnecessary movement and most importantly, excess inventory. Just- in-Time method creates a smooth workflow by adapting Kanban Card to the system. The Kanban card is used to call-up components, as they are required. Before stocks need replenishing, a Kanban card from the operator ensures a just-in- time delivery. The process is based on apullprinciple with items called only as they are required, as opposed to apush principle that may not take account of actual need. Such efficient production system allows both company and the employees to collaborate to constantly improve lean manufacturing process.

10. The story of leather Waste: Skin Waste: extraneous flesh, pickling chemicals Waste: shavings, trimmings, toxic chemicals. Raw Material Material Processing Tanning Process: Material preparation to convert the protein of the raw hide into a stable material.

11. Lean Manufacturing System: How does each factory pursue lean system? Componant Processing Distribution- Retail Leather Jacket Luxury Handbag

12. Initial Experiment Process In collaboration with Vanson Leathers, I was able to collect a large quantity of leather scraps to experiment and test design iterations. My initial experiments extend to various surface manipulations from paint coatings to hand sewing and sanding.

13. As a traditional way of using leather scraps, patch-working can utilize as much scrap surface as possible. Instead of traditional squared patch- work, the whole surfaces were puzzled and weaved together. Although the utilization of whole surfaces seems ideal for waste elimination, it is questionable whether the technique is applicable for the standard manufacturing process. Patching

14. Another way of patching is to sew every seam of overlapping layers. The sewing requires techniques to sew with industrial sewing machine and develop keen calculations on placements. Design aesthetics can easily become overwhelming with multiplication of layers; few layers need to be skived in order to maintain a flat surface. Although sewing embraces the most basic technique of fabric connection, design aesthetics become ambiguous and the material finishing, such as skiving, may take substantial amount of time. Sewing

15. Employing the industrial technique, multiple surfaces were glued and laminated together to sand down into a flat surface. This unconventional technique certainly creates a unique surface treatment. However, it is questionable whether the surface is strong enough to hold multiple layers together over time. The process of creating the flat surface also requires a long duration of time to glue and sand. Sanding

16. Approaching towards an artistic way, scrap surfaces were treated with leather paints to create unique surface design. Although the surface treatment is unique, it is questionable whether the technique is applicable in the manufacturing production system. Painting

17. Reaching out to fellow classmates at RISD, I have conducted workshops inviting artists and designers to participate in creating unique leather products. The idea is to employsatellite designers who are not abinded to factory system, but rather act as independent designers to create products beyond the factory gate. Workshops

18. The initial experiments display distinctive features of material explorations. However, the feasibility of these material techniques is questionable to the current leather manufacturing system. The following key summaries ultimately narrow down the techniques to become more applicable to the current leather production system. - Accessibility to machines and tools. - Time and cost efficiency - Ease to assemble - Standardized process and end products Problems

19. Final Design Process Inspired by modular patterns, the final design iterations include generating digital modular patterns to assembling three-dimensional forms.

20. Driven by the initial experiments, various modular patterns have been created to examine the potential possibilities to create a complex surface design with a repetition of a simple pattern. Many modular patterns have been tested. Pattern Exploration

21. In order to speed up the process of cutting, both laser and die cutting methods are introduced to customize the patterns while utilizing industrial manufacturing techniques. Patterns are digitally made in vector drawings. Digital Laser and Die Cut

22. Each pattern is design to be connected to one another. A single pattern infinitely repeats itself either through a looping system or an overlapping system. The customized patterns are uniquely designed, so that the patterns fit according to scrap size, material type, and technical needs. These modular patterns are not just to create beautiful surface designs; they are meant to utilize leather solid waste as much as possible through existing factory machines, such as water jet cutter and die cutters. Pattern Connection

23. The modular patterns provide infinite creative opportunities for people to design various products, such as leather lampshades, rugs and vases to fashionable scarves, hats, and bags. The patterns are the atoms and molecules, which transform from simple two-dimensional designs to three-dimensional objects through different combinations. The users can assemble a collection of patterns and self-initiate the design possibilities to create unique products. The overall design concept is to create objects with patterns, which represent lifestyle of both home and fashion products. The modular patterns are versatile enough to be interpreted along with users needs. The lifestyle of home and fashion interplays to become a bigger realm of culture. The patterns not only eliminate the existing leather waste, but also nourish the creativity to be applicable for lifestyle products. Design Approach

24. With completed patterns and prototypes, the project will be extended to seek for a retail opportunity, starting with online stores. Collaborating with a minimal viable merchandise store, such as Etsy, a collection of patterns and pre-made products will be sold individually online. The purpose of retail expansion is to effectively communicate with customers. The solid waste generated from the product development could have been influenced by communication between the factory and the buyer, and the buyer to customers. If the factories and the customers communicate directly to each other, product development will be more focused towards customersneeds and value. This will ultimately eliminate waste for the future and the system will follow the model of ToyotasKanbanpull method. Future Direction