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Page 1: 62697406 Mexican Indians Folk Designs

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186950

Copyright © 1976, 1993by Akademische Druck- u. Verlagsanstalt, Graz.

All rights reserved under Pan American and International Copyright Conventions .

Published in

Canada

by General Publishing Company, Ltd., 30 Lesmill Road, Don Mills,

Toronto . Ontario .

Published in the United Kingdom by Constable and Company, Ltd., 3 The Lanchesters,

162-164 Fulharn Palace Road, London W6 9ER.

This Dover edition , originally published in1993,is a newselection ofillustrations from the

two-volume

Design MOl fson Mexican Indian Textiles ,

originally published by Akademische

Druck- u. Verlagsanstalt, Graz, Austria, in

1976.

The present volume retains the general

sequence ofmaterial of the original volumes, and the captions

are

basedon the original text.

A new Publisher's Note. derived from the original frontmatter, has been added.

OVER Pidonal«-lrcbne SERIES

This book belongs to the Dover Pictorial Archive Series .

You

may use the designs and

illustrations for graphics and crafts applications, free and without special permission,

provided t hat you include no more than ten in the same publication or project. (For permis

sion for additional use, please write to Dover Publications, Inc., 31East 2nd Street, Mineola,

N.Y. 11501.

However, republication or reproduction of any illustration by any othe r graphic service,

whether it be in a book or in any other design resource , is strictly prohibited.

Manufactured in the United States of America

Dover Publications, Inc., 31 East 2nd Street, Mineola, N.Y 

11501

Library

o

Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Weitlaner-Johnson, Irmgard.

[Design motifs on Mexican Indian textiles . Selections]

Mexican Indian folk designs: 252 motifs from textiles / Irmgard Weitlaner-Johnson.

p. cm. - (Dover pictorial ar chive series)

A selection of illustrations from the author's two volume Design motifs on Me xican

Indian textiles, published in 1976.

ISBN 0-486-27524-8 (pbk.)

1. Indians of Mexico-Textile industry and fabrics . 2. Textile design-Mexico

Classification .

I

Title . II. Series.

FI219 .3.T4W4425 1993

74SA'089 97072-dc20 7 ; - -10

CIP

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186950

Publisher's Nate

T

HE PRESENT

VOLUME is a new selection of illustrations

from the scholarly, carefully researched two-volume

work

esign

Motifs on

Mexican Indian

Textiles by

lrmgard Weitlaner-lohnson. The

aim

of the original and

of this new version is to stimulate interest in the artistic

creativity of Mexican Indian textiles by acquainting the

reader with a large number of different design elements

(and significant variants) associated with Mexican In

dian textiles.

Two hundred fifty-two designs, taken from motifs on

textiles from twenty ethnic groups, are included. They

have been arranged by ethnic group, in a geographical

sequence from the northwest to the southeast of Mexico.

A map showing the location of thirty-five Mexican ethnic

groups, including those represented in this volume, will

be found on page

iv.

The designs were

transferred

to

paper

by three

methods: The majority were derived by reconstructing

the designs on squared paper; some were traced directly

onto

paper

from the source material; a few were drawn

freehand. The captions accompanying the designs in

clude the names of the ethnic groups that are the sources

of the designs, and a description of the structural ele

ments of each design and the type of textile from which

each was taken. English-language descriptions of the

textiles are given in the captions, in place of the tradi

.onal Mesoamerican names . A brief description of the

more common textile types, with their Mexican Indian

esignations, follows. No attempt has been made to con

y

the extent of color usage in the production of Mexican

'an textiles, although the ethnic populations had de

loped the art of creating

and

using animal, vegetable

mineral dyes with great sophistication by the time of

Spanish Conquest.

Garment and textile types are common to all Mexican

ndian

peoples. Among the most

common-and

most

- corated-i-are the

huipil

a woman s sleeveless tunic

- garment; the jaia a sash or belt worn by men and

en; the enredo a wraparound skirt; the quech-

tnitl a woman s shoulder cape; the servilleta  a

or rectangular cloth used for covering food or for

ceremontal purposes; and the

talega

a woven pouch or

_ Almost all the designs of these traditional forms are

s-Ce

l

um

bian in

origin.

_- various elements found in the designs are all

. used and reflect the natural environment, the

enduring place in the culture of pre-Columbian imagery

and in many instances the encroachment of Western in

fluence. Geometric figures such as triangles, diamonds,

zigzag lines, squares, rectangles and to a lesser extent

chevrons and parallelograms are often found singly or

combined in repeating patterns as borders or as back

ground fill-in for allover patterns. Bird forms appear in

almost every type of Indian textile. They range from

small simple designs to large elaborately ornamented

representations of multiheaded eagles. Animal forms

(dog,

monkey

horse. bull. lion) are all widely used. Plant

motifs are also used extensively, including the Tree-of

Lifemotif, often seen as a free-standing design in combi

nation with animal motifs, typically butterflies and hum

mingbirds, and other pl

ant

motifs. In many cases, the

motifs themselves have become so conventionalized or

stylized that they seem unrecognizable. A traditional

device, the ilhuitl motif, comprising an S-motif, is ubiqui

tous and gives rise to many variations, including Z- and

X-motifs, angular scrolls and pirals.

The breadth of expression

an

d

artistry

found in these

designs is a tribute to the Mexican Indian weaver s craft.

The designs , passed on from mother to daughter, repre

sent

a visual

tradition

that

dates

back to the pre

Columbian period . Although there are virtually no extant

examples of textiles dated prior to the mid-nineteenth

century, a strong link to the designs of pre-Columbian

Mexican Indians can be observed in the representations

of clothing in stone sculptures, figurines and ceramics.

Many pre-Columbian designs

are

clearly discernible in

the work of the twentieth-century weavers. The present

day designs of certain Mixteco weavers, for example,

bear a striking similarity to the stone mosaic designs of

the Mitla ruins in Oaxaca.

In the latter part of the twentieth century, this long and

rich tradition of textile design is prey to the dictates of

contemporary economics. In many villages

it

is no longer

possible to support a family creating textiles on the tradi

tional backstrap looms, and the traditions ofweaving are

already beginning to die out with the older women. The

present volume is

an

attempt to help preserve the ancient

heritage of weaving and embroidering, as practiced by

Mexican Indians, whose magnificent cultural and aes

thetic achlevcrucure Huville

cUuVlc

cVl11cuu; v UICU

C -

cellence in the textile arts.

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Map of Mexico Showing ocations of Ethnic

Groups

A /·;tll1lic

GrOll  ,

 

Represented in

Th

is Volwne

· I AIII I I : /,gO:

Guerrero

*

8 Chantal: Tabasco

15 Mazahua: Mexico, Michoacan

• .!

1 :0 111 :

Naya

rit

9 Chuj: Chiapas

*16 Mazatec: Oaxaca

• .I 1 :1111 11 11 1 :

( )axaca

*10 Huasteco: San Luis Potosi

*17 Mestizo: Mexico

" 1

:11 11111 11 '1': (:lIl'lTero

11 Huave: Oaxaca

*18 Mixe: Oaxaca

•   (

:1111

11

11

0 :

Oaxaca

"12 Huichol: Nayarit, Ialisco

*19 Mixteco: Oaxaca, Guerrero

• II 1 :1

11 11 11

11

11

'1':

() axara

13 Maya: Yucatan

*20 Nahua: Veracruz, Puebla, Hidalgo, San Luis

§ - -

- -7  

- (

i ( 1111111 111 : () axaca 14 Mayo: Sonora

Potosi,

Ialisco, Guerrero

........

21 Ocuilteco: Mexico

: ,

,

'--,

*22

Otomf: Queretaro, Hidalgo, Puebla, Mexico

,----

 -1

\

23 Popoluca: Veracruz

\

-,

*24 T

ar

ahumara: Chihuahua

'

 

,

,

25 Tarasco: Michoacan

\ I

 

 

*26 Tepecano: Ialisco

SONO RA

\ ' ,

*27

Tepehua: Veracruz, Hidalgo

  ' --, \

I ,

28 Tepehuan: Durango

'

' \

: "

"29 Tlapancco: Guerrero

H ' A A ..

30 Totonac: Veracruz, Puebla

\" \

.

'."\

A

1111 II "  I A

31 Trique: Oaxaca

-. '. ' , / , I

( , 2 4

I " " ,

' \ . .

32 Tzeltal: Chiapas

*33

Tzotzil : Chiapas

'

/

I:

1',

" "

  \  ,"

\,

"" , ..

-' t. I •• ••

->

, " , :

fI "

'   : ,

*34 Zapotec: Oaxaca

, ..1 "

I

"

'-1 ) . ..

35 Zoque: Chiapas

I < ,

I " ' , . .. ,

\  

I

'

RANGO

d I , 

' 0 U

 

, \,

". , ----" / I )

, /

" N ;

/ , I

" \ I ZACAT! C , / ' : ;

,AM A" II' A

GULF

"

," ;

"

{ " \

,"

'.

.

>"        

'

"' ' ' '' ''

OF

I I " ,

)

/ , I ; I \NI I I I .

I

'"

'

l'

Wz6,AGUA

S).., ' II I

MEXICO

2(, r /

(, ;t: '

    'It,,

-o

NAVAA

'T 12J } ) "IIl , ,".,

-

..

1 :.... "

.-..) ( , - ' /     ;. '.1 "

."l

-

 

''J . :I ,

 

• Jr ,

 

/ \ " s c

0 \ (; " " , '"111\11." 1111" • I

0

'J

J II L' L\

.•, , ,  1,.

'\ .

  k, ''';

r::. : '

.....

.. ,'

A

:     J2 '

0

' : IS

1$

0 , 17 , I ' .

l 'IlI

o ,

 

Q',u r, " ,  

   

,J / Ji   """ " 'I \ .. ':"

°0

 

 

~ e _

r\ r:    ..

>" .\

1n . . I

r--  -'-<" ,    

I

4 , •

(: -<;

•' GUERAEM 20 : (I A X A

c:

A

2 9 9 ~ 0

,

34

-

1

  ,9

1-

  9

5

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1

2

TARAHUMARA.

1: Reversible pattern of

diamnnd-within -diarnond

units . Man s or wo

man s sash. 2: Geometric motifs changing within zigzag areas. Man s or woman s sash.

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3

4

TEPE CANO. 3: Double-headed feathered serpent. Rare old woman's shoulder cape.

4: Interlocking stepped-fret motif with serrated edges. Rare old shoulder cape.

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5

TEPE  NO. 5: Twined serpe nt motif with s rrated edges. R re old shoulder cap e. 3

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6

7

CORA

6: Twisted cord motif. Bag.

:

Double-headed eagle with fancy crests in the

form of spirals; geometric forms

ill

in the background. Bag.

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8

9

10

11

U CHOL.

8: Pair of countered S-motifs. Woman's shoulder cape. 9: Row of crossed

X-motifs. Woman's blouse. 10: Pattern of diamonds with cross in center. Bag.

1: Repeated pattern of S-motifs. Man's cape.

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12

13

HUICHOL.

12: Double-headed feathered serpent paired and countered. Sash. 13: Two

p irs of S-motifs creating a four-sided unit containing a diamond and stylized flor l

p tt

ern

. Sash.

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II I1

14

15

H UICHOL. 14 :

Row of diamonds with ser rated unit s and angular spirals. M

  n

s cape.

15: Allover pattern of diamond and cross with in cross motifs; bilateral a rrangement.

Small pouch.

7

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17

16

18

UICHOL. 16: Interlocking S-units with serrated edges. Woman's shoulder cape .

17: Variant of interlocking S or cord motif with serrated edges. Woman's shoulder cape.

18: Variant of interlocking S-motif with diagonal serrated edging unit s. Woman's sash.

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19

20

21

HUICHOL. 19: Interlocking arrow motifs with serrated edges

nd

hook ends. Woman's

shoulder

c pe

. 20: Series of diamond-within-diamond units with serr ted edges.

Woman's shoulder cape. 21: Variation of stepped-fret motif; allover interlocking design .

Small pouch.

9

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  3

HUICHOL. 22: Large 8-pointed st r (flowers) with interlocking scepter-like motifs.

Woman s shoulder cape. 23: Row of diamonds, alternating with row of diamond-with

hooks. Neckpiece from a woman s shirt.

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25

6

27

28

HUICHOL . 25:Stylized scorpions. Narrow band. 26:Alloverstepped-fret motif pattern.

Small pouch. 27: Decorative stripe of stepped triangles. Woman's shoulder cape.

28: Variant of interlocking stepped-fret motif. Man's trousers.

2

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29

30

HUICHOL. 29: Interlocking spiral motif with serrated units at sides. Woman s shoulder

cape. 30: Allover pattern of interlocking and serrated spiral units. Man s cape .

3

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31

32

HUICHOL. 31: Allover p ttern of interlocking hooks with serr

  ted

edges. Bag.

32: Series of 8-pointed stars (flowersi) with each section showing a pair of dog motifs.

Woman's shoulder cape.

4

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33

34

OTOMi 33: Allover diamond -within-diamond pattern. Bag. 34: Allover pattern of

zigzags with serrated edges which alternate with rows of stylized flowers having small

crosses in each petal. Bag. 15

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35

36

7

OTOMi

35: Allover l amond pattern enclosingsmaller diamonds with serr ted borders.

Bag. 36: Allover cliamond pattern; variant of 35. Bag. 37: Alternating light

nd

dark

16 flowers forming border. Woman's shoulder cape .

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38

39

OTOMI 38: Bilateral a rra ngement ofbirds and pl nt motif. Sash. 39:Allover diamond

pattern composed of serr ted zigzag lines with paired crosses n geometric units inside

diamond -shaped areas. Bag.

7

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40

41

OTOM\ 40: Alternating motifs of stylized flowers and X-shaped units. Bag. 41: Upper

border exhibits Z-twist pattern with cross stripes; main pattern is an allover design of

zigzags with serrated triangles at upper and lower apices. Bag. 42: Doll figures within

horizontal rows of triangles and stripes. Bag.

42

8

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43

44

OTOM . 43: Border of stepped zigzags. Bag. 44: Border of stripes, stepped lines and

zigzags. Bag.

9

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45

OMI

45: Large stylized eagle. Woman's shoulder cape.

0

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46 47

49

48

50

5

OTOM .

46-51: Various animal forms; birds, roosters, horse. Woman s shoulder cape.

2

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52

53

56

55

57

OTOMi.

52-58: Various animal forms (dogs, monkey horses, mule) and a oll figure.

Woman s shoulder cape.

2

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59

60

61

3

T I

5  61:

Various birds, some double-headed. Woman's shoulder cape.

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62

63

65

4

O TOM .

62: Sq

u re

sha pe with s t

  r

and cro ss

unit

s. Wom

n

's shoulde r ca pe.

63: Border of stylized flowers. Woman's shoulder cape. 64, 65: Variants of squa re

motifs, bordered by a ngu

l r

scrolls a nd having centers ofcheckered or lattice-like design.

Rare old shoulder cape.

4

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66

OTOMi

66: rnate border pattern of hexagon-within-hexagon motifs, some with

serrated edges and with criss-cross units in center. Rare woman s shoulder cape.

25

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68

69

67

71

70

OTOMI

67-71: Stylized bird, animal and plant motifs. From fine bands for braids and

man's sashes.

6

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7

73

74

O TOMi. 72-74: Stylized doll figures . Sashes.

27

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75

76

.

75, 76: Vari

  t

s of stylized animals (donkeys"). Woman 's

s

sh.

8

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78

77

79

29

TOMJ. 77

  7

9: Various animal forms. Woman s sash.

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  .

t ',

80

82

83

81

86

84 85

30 OTOMI 80-86: Various animal forms. From fine bands for braids and woman's sash.

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t 8 9

,50

...c::

<fJ

C :l

<fJ

<fJ

 c::

C :l

E

Q

....

-.:l

0

...c::

u

C:l

Q

co

c::

'u

-l9

....

I'-..

' (:3

0..

C:l

0

Q

c::

0

3

0

Q

co

....

C :l

....:l

r:-:

0

0

31

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89

OTOMi 88: Repeating geometric form of diamonds with serrated edges. Band for braids.

89: Narrow border of repeating geometric forms. Woman s sash .

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90

91

TEPEHUA 90: Plain and serrated triangles and an allover pattern of interlocking frets.

Woman's shoulder cape. 91: Highly stylized leaf-and-flower motif. Rare old woman's

shoulder cape.

33

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9

93

HUASTECO. 92, 93: Prancing animals with long bushy tails, decorated with flowers.

Woman's shoulder cape.

4

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94

HUASTECO. 94: Large conventional floral pattern, bilateral arrangement. Woman s

shoulder cape. 35

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95

96

HUASTE CO. 95: Conventionalized floral pattern with birds nd butterflies. Bag.

96: Stylized floral pattern. Woman's shoulder cape.

6

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37

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98

-  

99

AMUZGO

98: Flower moti fs

rr

anged within crossed bands. Woma n's tunic.

99: Double-headed eagles, small birds and geometric units, rr nged within crossed

ba nds. Wom  ns tunic.8

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100

101

MUZ O

. 100, 101: Abstract design motifs a rranged within crossed bands. Woman 's

tunic. 39

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1 2

4  MESTiZO. 102: Tree of Life desig n. Embroidery sa mpler.

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 8

95iO

104

1 3

105

MESTIZO. 103-105: Double-h

e

ed eagle, crown and p

 ir

ofcrowned lions. Embroidery

s mpler.

41

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1 6

1 7

1 8

1 9

N UA. 106-108: Simple cross -bands motifs. Traditional neck-opening decoration on

old-style woman s shoulder cape. 109: Conventionalized diamond-and-hooks motifs.

Old-style woman s shoulder cape.

2

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11

2

113

NAHUA.

110-112: Free-standing traditional design motif utilizing cross bands. Old-style

woman s shoulder cape. 113: Conventionalized S-motif with

serr ted

edge . Woman s

shoulder cape.

43

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  4

115

NAHUA.

114, 115: Free-standing motifs utilizing cross-band desi gns in diamond

arrangements. Old-style woman's shoulder cape.

4

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U6

U

liS

NAHUA. 116: Free-standing design with diamond motif. Old-style woman s shoulder

cape. 117: Bilateral arrangements of diamonds, chevrons and S-units, paired and

countered. Old-style skirt band.

118:

Zigzag line enclosing chevrons with hooks along

edge. Old-style skirt band .

45

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..,.

\

N AHUA.

119: Large free-standing bird with elaborate plumage, holding a flower in its

beak. Old-style woman s shoulder cape.

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120

121

122

123

NAHUA. 120, 121: Free-standing animal motifs, the lion heavily decorated with a floral

motif. Old-style skirt band. 122: Geometric border of serrated zigzags, triangles and

narrow cross stripes. Old-style woman s shoulder cape.

123:

Vine motif composed of

stepped squares and highly stylized floral elements. Woman s shoulder cape. 47

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124

125

NAHUA. 124: Flower and plant motif, emerging from a vase. Woman s shoulder cape.

125: Border pattern of octagonal frames containing a large turkey, a smaller bird nd

various geometric and floral motifs. Skirt band.

8

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127

128

N AHUA.

126: Large 8-pointed star with paired and countered 5, Z and cross forms

within each quadrant. Old-style woman s shoulder cape. 127: Free-standing highly

stylized floral pattern. Old-style woman  s shoulder cape. 128: Corner motif exhibiting

highly stylized flower-and-Ie  ipattern. Old-style woman s shoulder cape.

49

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: 1.-;

: C

129

NAHUA.

129:

Free-standing comer motif with stylized floral pattern. Old-style woman s

shoulder cape.

13 :

Diagonal comer pattern of 8-pointed star having paired and coun

tered

and

Z-forms within sections; stylized floral motifs and geometric bands accentu

ate the diagonal arrangement. Woman s shoulder cape.

0

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186950

132

3

33

134

N AHUA. 131: El  orately compos ed corner motif offloral pattern, bilaterally rr

 ng

ed.

Old-style woman s shoulder cape. 132: Border pattern showing stylized vine nd flower

motif; above, a stylized Tree-of-Life motif. Skirt. 133: Lower border exhibits se ries of

slanting S nd Z-units; above, a Tree-of-Lifemotif. Skirt. 134: Corner motif exhibiting

bilateral arrangement of stylized floral pattern. Old-style woman s should er cape.

5

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 --

 

_ -

136 13

7

138

NAHUA.

136-138 : Variants of repeating geometric patterns incorporating 5, Z

and

X-motifs. Old-style headband.

53

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139

140

N UA. 139: Design showing deer, bird, human figure and floral elements. Woman's

54 blouse. 140: Z igzag pattern with hooks and triangles. Bag.

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  4

142

143

NAHUA

141:

Geometric

vine

motif with spirals and

stylized flowers .

Sash

.

142: Diamond-and-hook motif. Sash. 143: Rowof diamond-and-hook motifs. Woman s

shoulder cape.

55

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144

145

NAHUA. 144: Zigzag pattern with stepped-fret motif. Old-style headband. 145: Pair of

stylized vine motifs containing spiral elements. Woman's shoulder cape.

6

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146

N AHUA.

146: Highly conventionalized floral and pl  nt motif with humm ingbird at top

left. Old style long shawl.

57

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147

148

NAHUA 147: Conventionalized plant flower

and

fruit elements growing from vase.

Old-style long shawl. 148: Border design of vine with floral motifs interspersed with

hummingbirds. Old-style long shawl.

8

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149

150

N AHUA. 149: Animal figure (dogi) with he

ad

turned backw

ard

s. Old -style sash

150: P

air

of

human

figures. Old-style sash.

59

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• •

t. · ·

  -

-

- .

- . .

· f·

-: .

  -

  5

52

53

54

ZAPOTEC. 151-154: Human figure with elaborate stylized headdress and a variety of

geometric figures: Sash.0

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155

156

ZAPOTEC.

155: Row of dolls, geometric figures and a prancing animal with a monkey

balancing on its tail. Woman s tunic. 156: Cross bands containing 8-pointed st rs with

X-units centered in them; they alternate with pairs of birds . Rare old woman s tunic. 61

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157

158

159

ZAPOTE

C 157: Geometric motif ofdiamonds with serrated borders. Old woman s tunic.

158: Stylized plant form (corn?). Old woman s tunic. 159: Zigzag motif with serrated

borders. Old-style head covering.

2

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1

61

160

62

163

165

164

Z APOTEC.

160-165: Various animals (horses , dogs, goat, mule). Woman's tunic and

head covering.

63

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168

166

167

170

169

173

172

174

ZAPOTEC. 166-174:

Geometric motifs, and eagles, one of which is double-headed.

Woman s tunic .

7

64

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175

176

ZAPOTEC.

175:

agle

flanked by geometric units. Old woman 's tunic. 176: Double-

headed eagle flanked by sta rs. Woman's tunic.

65

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1

81

182

18

3

184

185

MlXTECO. 181-185 :

Elaborations of repeated geometric desi gns incorporating st pped

fret a nd diamond motifs. Mitl a-like designs. Wom

 n

's tunic.

67

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187

186

• •

 

•••

 

188

190

89

lX ECO.

186-190: Variety of stylized flora l motifs. Woman s tunic.

8

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••

• •

-

II

i ii

1I

- -

II •

11

.

• •

1I

:

II

II

:

II

II

I

II

:

:

:

 

 

I

• II

~  

:

:

I

I

• •

:

 

·

• •

11

••

• •

II-

• • • •

II III

• •

I I

_

• •

1

• • •

• •

• • •

II

II

• • • •

II •

1I 1I

I

.

...

.

• •

• • •

• II

l1li

• • 11

• • •

II •

.

 

1I

I •

• •

••

• •

11

  :

• •

• II

l1li

.

II

.-

 

II •

I

·

 

..

• • ..I

••

• • • •

 

1I

1I

• • •

• • • •

• • •

••••

• •••••••

• •

• • •

• •

..

 

II II

• •

1

• •

•• ••

•• •

•• ••

..

..

 

..

..

r/

..

Jr

J

j j

..

-

  :-

  ••

• • • • •

l1li

....

.

-

• •

••

jj

• • •

• •

• •

•••••

• •

• •••• •

191

MlXTECO . 191: Large pattern consisting of zigzag lines, stylized floral motifs and

geometric units. Woman s tunic. 69

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192

193

194

MlXT O

.

192: Row of 8-pointed stars. 193: Row of highly stylized birds in flight.

194: Row of diamonds with serrated edges. ll from head coverings.

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  95

196

lXTECO.

195, 196: Variants of multiheaded birds. Woman's tunic .

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198

199

MIXTE CO. 197-199: Prancing animals wit long tails. Woman's tunic.

7

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200

201

202

203

204

205

MrXTECO.

200-202:

Various

animals rodent,

iguana?)

standing or prancing.

203: Plant with birds . 204, 205:Male and female figures. All from woman's tunic .

73

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2 8

MAZATEC.

207: Floral and leaf pattern. Woman s tunic. 208: Plant growing from the

ground, artfully concealing a crested bird. Woman s tunic.

75

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2 9

210

211

MAZATEC.

209: Repeating pattern of five interlocking,

serr ted

spirals, the fourth

contrasting in color with the others; example of "blond serpent" motif. Wraparound

skirt. 210,

211:

V

  ri

ants of diagonal bands with hook or spiral motifs. Wom

  n

's tunic.

6

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2 2

2 3

CUICATEC 

212: Wide cross b n s containing repe ting diamond-within-diamond

pattern with hook motifs at edges. Mortu ry sheet. 213: Geometric pattern ofvine and

spirals. Woman s tunic.

77

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2 4

2 5

CUICATEC. 2 4: Wide zigzag line with serrated edges, symbolizing feathered serpent.

Woman s tunic. 2 5: Pattern of parallelograms set diagonally to form zigzag arrange-

ment; inside are placed hook motifs; chevrons and serrated lines

ill

triangular areas.

Woman s tunic.

8

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216

2 7

CHINANTEC

216: Pattern of diamond-within-diamond, hook and spiral units,

nd

stepped diagonals. Woman s tunic. 217: Pairs of zigzag lines from which emerge angu

l

  r

spiral motifs. Woman s tunic.

79

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218

219

220

221

222

80

HIN NTEC  218: Bilateral stepped fret

221: Example of Flower of Powder motif.

woman's tunic.

motif. 219, 220: Variants of

222: Example of serp ent motif.

S-motif.

All from

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223

224

MlXE

243: Rows of stylized dogs and flowers. Woman s tunic. 224: Rows of stylized

animals (faxes?)

nd

butterflies. Woman s tunic.

8

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225

226

MlXE 5: Anthropomorphic figures exhibiting animal characteristics (beak? crest?).

Woman s tunic. 226: Combination of flower-like motifs set over countered and paired

abstract designs (bats? butterfliesi). Woman s tunic.2

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227

8

M lXE. 227: Bird-like anthropomorphic figures with countered and paired triangles.

Woman s

tuni

c. 228: Large pattern of serrated diamond-within-diamond mot if

surrounding bird-like anthropomorphic figures and a double-H motif. Woman 's tunic.

83

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229

MrXE 229: Irregular

arrangement

of serrated diamond

 within diamond

motif.

Woman s tunic.

4

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• • •

• •

••

  •

• •

• •

• •

• •

• •

• •

••

• •

• •

• •

.

.

.

~ ; . ; .

.

 

. ~ ; . ;...  

••• ••

••

;1

..

.

~

.

 s •

230

.

.

. .

 

• •

~ .   .

 

.

.

.

~ ~

.

 s •

231

232

.

.

; . ; .

. .

. .

. ... .

 

.

~

. ..

• s •

CHATINO. 230:

Conventionalized vine motif.

Yoke

for woman's blouse. 231, 232: Free-

standing geometric shapes. Square cloth used for covering food, or for ceremonial

purposes. 85

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233

234

CHONTAL 233: Large diamond-within-diamond and hook-motif p ttern. Ceremonial

cloth. 234: Cross band depicting zigzag, chevron nd hook motifs. Ceremonial cloth.

6

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235

236

237

238

CHONTAL. 235 238 : Various patterned cross bands showing geometric nd stylized

floral motifs. Ceremonial

lt r

cloth. 87

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239

ONTAL

239: Alternating bird and flower motifs. Woman's blouse.

8

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240

241

242

TZOTZIL. 240-242: Various cross bands containing diamonds, angul r spirals, zigzag

lines and hook motifs. Woman's tunic.

89

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243

244

TZOTZIL 243: Central diamond giving rise to paired spirals emerging from each corner

Shawl 244: Border of zigzag lines and angular spirals with serrated edges Shawl

0

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245

246

247

TZOTZIL 245-247: Three examples of "monkey" motif. Old woman's tunic.

91

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250

248

249

2

51

252

TZOTZIL 248, 250: Small X-motifs with hooks curved inwards. Shawl. 249: Small

design of diamond motifs forming a cross. Shawl. 251, 252:V

ar

i

ants

ofstylized monkey

motif. Woman 's shoulder cape.2

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Irmgard

Weitlaner Johnson

MEXICAN INDIAN

FOLK

DESIGNS

5

Motifs

from

Textiles

This fascinating b ook is the

pr

oduct of int ensive scholarly res

earch

, its exacting

illustrations based on ch oice examples ofM exican

Indian

textiles in m

any

d ifferent

museums and private coll ections. Incorporating ab stract and geometric forms as

well as highly s tylized images of fl

ow

ers, plants, anima ls, birds a nd humans, the

patterns represent more than tw enty major Mexic an

Ind

ian cultures.

Amon

g the d esigns are a t

wo-h

eaded f

eath

ered serpen t from the Hui

chol

culture,

an allover p

attern

dominated by horizontal zig

zag

s wo ven by

the Otorn

i, and a

flower and leaf design from th e Tep ehua. The Huasteco pe

opl

e ar e rep resented by

a bold motif featuring prancing animals with

bushy

tails; a Nahuatl design depicts a

lion with a flow er in his mouth; while an elegant curvilin ear Mazatec motif features

fl

ow

er s, vin es

and

bird

s.

Oth

er

pe oples whos

e art is r

ep r

es

ented

includ

e the

Tarahumara , Tepecano, Mestizo , Zapotec ,. Mixteco and Cuicatec. In the

bold

,

startling designs originated b y these cultures are primal links to the imagery of other

cultures and traditions, centuries old and worldwide.

Artists, designers

and

cr aftsp eople will value this mo destly

priced

collection as a

s

ourc

e of striking and unusual co pyr ight-free designs for inspiration and

pr

actical

use; anyone interested in Mexican Indian cult

ure

will find it an important reference

as well.

O riginal Dover (1993) selection of motifs from the 2-volume Design Motifs on

Mexican

nd

ian Textiles

published

b y Akademische Druck- u , VerlagsanstaIt,

Graz

, Austria , 1976.

Ov

er 200 black

-and-whit

e illustrations.

Captions

. 80pp. xII.

Paperb

ound.

o

o

-c

ALSO AVAILABLE

Q '

AYA DESIGN

S, Wilson G. Turner.

48pp

.

 

x 11. 24047-9 Pa. $3.95

DESIGNS

FROM PRE-COL

UMBIAN

MEX CO J

orge

Enciso. 105pp . 6J8

x

9)t 22794-4

Pa. $5.95

DESIG N

MOTIF

SOF ANCIENT MEXICO J

org

e Enciso. 153pp. 6J8x 9Jt 20084-1 Pa. $5.95

AMERICAN INDIAN

DESIGN AND DECORATION L

eroy Appl

eton. 279pp. xII. 22704-9

Pa. $9.95