50s&60s
TRANSCRIPT
The 1950s and 1960s
They are not the same, Rachel Rachel
Christian Dior
New Look premiered in 1947
Rounded shoulder
Nipped in waist
Longer hemline
Christian Dior
Skirts are either
Very Full (up to 25 yards of fabric)
Tightly Fitted
Undergarments
Pointed bosom
Rounded hip
Girdle
Sometimes padding
Undergarments
Make the Waist Smaller
Waist Cincher
Merry Widow
Longline Brassiere
Undergarments
Stiffly starched or nylon petticoat
New Materials
New materials in Undergarments
Nylon
Elastic yarns
Lighter weight
New Materials
“Wash and Wear”
“Permanent Press”
Polyester
Acrylic
Moving to the Suburbs
Casual Dress
Movie Stars
Television
TVs become more common
Current Fashion
Arbiters of Fashion
Paris
Italy
London
Ireland
American Designers
McCardell
Norrel
Charles James
Adrian
Claire McCardell
Norman Norrel
Charles James
Adrian
1947 - Late 1950sNew Look Dominates
Maternity ClothesBecome Fashionable
Sportswear
Bathing Suits
Mother/Daughter Styles
Other active wear
Outerwear
Short, full, or long
Accommodate full skirts
Evening Wear
Most are short
Often strapless
Full skirt
Popular Hair and Hats
Popular Shoes
Popular Accessories
Boys’ UndiesBoxers, Briefs: More Colors!
Men’s StylesBold Look, Grey Flannel Suit, Continental Cut
Men’s Shirts
Blue
Pink
Yellow
White
Men’s Casual DressLeisure Time and Active Sports
Popular Hats and Hairstyle
Fedora AlpineDriving Cap
Pork Pie
D.A. or Duck Tail Hairstyle
Popular Footwear
Blue Suede Loafers OxfordWhite Buckskin
Leisure Shoes
Penny Loafers
Popular Accessories
Boys
Girls
Poodle SkirtsPopular among teenage girls
BeatniksPortrait of Jack Kerouac, by Allen Ginsberg, 1953
Teddy BoysPopular “Rebel” Style in Britain
They’re different from the 1950s
The New Look vs the 60s
Designers like Saint Laurent, Ungaro, and Cardin
Trained under the fashion designers of the 50s
Civil Rights and Social Protest
Anti-War
Women’s Rights
“Street” StylesInfluence Main Stream Fashion
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“Street” Styles“Mods” “Hippies” “Anti-War Youth” “Punks”
Op Art and Pop ArtInfluence Main Stream Fashion
c. 1960's "Andy Warhol" Campbell's Soup Paper Dress
Fiber Arts
First Nylon Panty Hose
Body Stockings, Soft Cup Bra
• Empire waistlines
• A-Line shapes
• Straight from a yoke at the shoulder.
• Dresses unfitted through the torso and with a flounce joint to the hem of the dress at the knee.
50
Evening Dress
SportswearHot Pants and Hip-Huggers
Outerwear
Pant Suits
X
Evening Dresses
Popular Hats and Hairstyles
19631960’s
Early 1970’s 1970’s1960’s 1960’s 1960’s
Popular Shoes
Popular Accessories
Handbags
Sun glasses
Jewelry
50s to 60s Style SuitThe “Mod” Influence
The PeacockAccording to Esquire Magazine
The Nehru Jacket
Turtlenecks
Sportswear and the Leisure Suit
Blue Jeans Become Main Stream
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R S E V E N T E E N
THE NEW LOOKFashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960
For Further Study
Museum and Collection Web Sites with Photographs of Period ClothingTexas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories.
http://www.camrax.comPhiladelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/20.html Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html
Fashion DesignersGo to web site http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/fashionframe.html and look at pages devoted to Clai
re McCardell, Norman Norell, Dior, Balenciaga,, and others active between 1947 and 1960.
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R S E V E N T E E N
THE NEW LOOKFashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960
For Further Study
New Lookhttp://www.staylace.com/features/fittedfiftiesfinery/ http://www.rom.on.ca/ee/intro.html http://home.att.net/~design-house/history/history_1950.htm
Manufactured Fibershttp://www.fibersource.com/f-tutor/history.htm http://www.mytights.com/mytights/advice/historyofstockings.html
The Young And Fashion Innovationshttp://www.fashion-era.com/1950s/1950s_4_teenagers_teddy_boys.htm#Teddy_Boys_or_Neo-Edwardians_
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R S E V E N T E E N
THE NEW LOOKFashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960
Image Credits Photo of the Chrysler Building, Courtesy, www.rumbugger.co.uk
Photo of “Dior's New Look,” 1947, Photographer Willy Maywald, www.proa.org/exhibicion/moda/salas/id_willy_maywald.html
Globe, Fairchild Digital Archive
Vintage Vogue 1940 #2198, Courtesy, The McCall Pattern Company
Vintage Vogue 1944 #2196, Courtesy, The McCall Pattern Company
“Dior’s Dinner Taffeta; your own shoulders, padded hips,” Vogue, April 1947
“New Tweeds” Vogue, December 1942, page 66, from the Author’s collection
Advertisement for Pink Satin Bra from Hickory, Courtesy, www.firstpr.com.au
Spencer’s Catalog Advertisement for Bras and Girdles, Courtesy, www.corsetiere.net
Merry Widow Warner’s Advertisement, September 1955, Ladies Home Journal, Courtesy, www.firstpr.com.au
1955 Advertisement for Briar Rose Petticoats, Courtesy, www.petticoatdreams.com
Bali-hi Advertisement from Vogue, March 1, 1955, page 57, from the Author's collection
Wembley Tie Advertisement, Vogue, June 1956, pages 25 and 26, from the Author's collection
White Stage Advertisement, Vogue, March 1955, page 80, from the Author's collection
Aerial Photo of Suburb, Courtesy, www.stulzphoto.com
Movie Magazine Images, Courtesy, www.classichollywoodbios.com
Donna Reed, as Donna Stone, and Patty Petersen, as her daughter, Trish Stone, in the television show "The Donna Reed Show",
Library of Congress Motion Picture, Broadcasting and Recorded Sound Division, LC-DIG-ppmsca-03220 DLC
Article from Women’s Wear Daily "Paris Opening Get's Under Way", July 28, 1950, from the Fairchild clipping archive
"New Paris Arrivals", New York Herald, March 21, 1958, from the Fairchild clipping archive
"Givenchy Holds Designer Shapes Dress, Not Wearer", Women's Wear Daily, March 21, 1958, from the Fairchild clipping archive
American Flag, Fairchild Digital Archive
Women’s Wear Daily Article, "Longer Suit Jackets by American Designers", September 9, 1958, from the Fairchild clipping Archive
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R S E V E N T E E N
THE NEW LOOKFashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960
Image Credits Women’s Wear Daily Article, "Norell Projects Spheroid Shape, High Waist for Fall", July 3, 1958, from the Fairchild clipping Archive
Women’s Wear Daily Article, "Adrian Designs Stage Costumes", July 9, 1958, from the Fairchild Clipping Archive
Davidson's of Georgia Advertisement, Vogue 1947, from the Author's collection
Davidson' Atlanta Advertisement, Vogue, June 1956, page 29, from the Author's collection
Davidson's of Georgia Advertisement, Vogue 1947, from the Author's collection
Davidson' Atlanta Advertisement, Vogue, June 1956, page 29, from the Author's collection
Designs created in 1956 by Miguel Dorian of Spain, Givenchy of France, and Norman Hartnell of England, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications
Cole of California Advertisement, Vogue, May 1951, pg 26, from the Author's collection
Carlyon Beach Photo, Courtesy, www.eden-project.co.uk
Photo of Red Coat, Vogue, October 1, 1957, page 141, from the Author's collection
Harry William, Limited Advertisement, Vogue, Feburary 1950, from the Author's collection
#2679 c. 1950's CEIL CHAPMAN Ecru Satin Bead and Rhinestone Dress, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
#3325 c. 1950's Organdy and Lace "Grace Kelly" Dress, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
#4350 - c. 1950's WILL STEINMAN Black and White Lace Party, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
c. 1950's Ceil Chapman Beige Strapless Taffeta Gown, , Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
c. 1950 Nettie Rosenstein Cocktail Dress, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
#4109 - c. late 1950's Metallic Brocade Bubble Dress, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
c. 1950 Nettie Rosenstein Floral Strapless Evening Gown, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
#9176a - c. 1950's REPRODUCTION PAULETTE Brown Plush Molded Hat with Original Huge Sequin and Beaded Hatpin, Courtesy,
www.antiquedress.com
#4093 - c. 1950's Onyx Iridescent Coque Feather Hat, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
#9154 - 1950's Green Leaf and Berries Hat Band, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
#0609 - c. 1950's Pinehurst, Fifth Avenue, NY Black Straw Molded Hat with Black Velvet Trim, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R S E V E N T E E N
THE NEW LOOKFashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960
Image Credits Hairstyle, Vogue, June 1956, page 95, from the Author's collection
Hairstyle, Vogue, June 1956, page 96, from the Author's collection
Hairstyle, Vogue, June 1956, page 97, from the Author's collection
Retro Shoes, Courtesy, www.pinupgirlclothing.com
1950's White Lucite "Wilardy" Box Purse, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
50's Fab Pink Vinyl Purse, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
1950's Pink "Lilly Dache" Gloves, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
50's White Gloves W/Pearls & Rhinestones, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Cool Stripe Sunglasses, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
Pale Pink Sunglasses With Cutouts, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
#J001 - c. 1950's Ruby Red, Pink and Aurora Rhinestone Pin, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
Haskell Signed Brooch, from the inventory of Isadora’s Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com.
Dior and Balenciaga sillouettes from 1955 Collection, Vogue Magazine, Condé Nast Publications
A variety of unfitted "chemise" styles featured in Women's Wear Daily, late 1957, Courtesy Fairchild Publications
A-Dress called "the trapeze", Courtesy, Butterick Pattern Archives/Library
Article "Temperate Versions of New Silhouettes," Women's Wear Daily, May 13, 1958, From Fairchild clipping archive
Men's Boxer Short Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 677, Fairchild Archives
Bold Look Suit, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications
Grey Flannel Suit, Vogue, March 1955, pg 148, from the Author's collection
Continental Style Suit Illustration, Courtesy Fairchild Publications
Shirt Advertisement from Sears and Roebuck Fall/Winter 1956-1957 Catalog, page 654, Fairchild Archive
Popular sportswear items for men, Daily News Record, April 8, 1959, reproduced Courtesy, Fairchild Publications
Various Men’s hats, Courtesy, www.millerhats.com
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R S E V E N T E E N
THE NEW LOOKFashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960
Image Credits Fifties Blue Suede and Leather Shoes, Courtesy, www.ballyhoovintage.com
Fifties Men's Leisure Shoes, Courtesy, www.ballyhoovintage.com
Fifties Black Penny Loafers, Courtesy, www.ballyhoovintage.com
1950's Sun glasses by American Optical, Courtesy, www.klasik.org
1950's gold-fill frame Sun glasses, Courtesy, www.klasik.org
Bow Ties and Neck Ties Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 460, Fairchild Archives
Handkerchiefs Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 460, Fairchild Archives
1950's Vintage Socks, Courtesy, www.ballyhoovintage.com
Boys Suits Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 463, Fairchild Archives
Girl's Dress Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 408, Fairchild Archives
Portrait of Jack Kerouac, photograph by Allen Ginsberg, Courtesy, www.allenginsberg.org
North East R&R Society Photo, photographer unknown, Courtesy, Martin Craig, http://www.nvo.com/radioland/door/
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N
THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980
For Further Study
Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period ClothingTexas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories.
http://www.camrax.com http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/20.html Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html
Fashion DesignersGo to web site http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/fashionframe.html and look at pages devoted to fashion
designers active between 1960 and 1980.Also search on names of specific fashion designers. Many firms and designers are still active and may have the
ir own web pages.
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N
THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980
For Further Study
The Young And Fashion Innovationshttp://www.gbacg.org/Articles/mods.pdf http://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/mod-fashion.htm http://www.hippy.com/php/article-120.html http://www.costumegallery.com/1960.htm http://www.fashion-era.com/punks_fashion_history1.htm http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/vivw/hd_vivw.htm http://www.arthistoryclub.com/art_history/Punk_fashion
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N
THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980
Image Credits Image copyright (c) 2004 by Philo Vivero. Image created using free tools available at http://faemalia.net/Fractals
Photo of Birth Control Pills, Courtesy, www.metrokc.gov
Photo of Yuri Gagarin, the first human in space, Courtesy, NASA
Photo of Freedom Riders, Courtesy, Southwest Missouri State University
Image of Berlin Wall, Courtesy, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD)
Anwar Sadat, Jimmy Carter and Menahem Begin at the Camp David Accords Signing Ceremony, 09/17/1978, Courtesy, Jimmy Carter Library (Atlanta, GA)
Image of UN Viewing Photos of Missile Sites in Cuba 1962, Courtesy the United Nations Photo Library
Orchard with Blossoming Plum Trees, 1888, Courtesy the Web Museum, Paris
Civil Rights March on Washington 1963, Courtesy, www.washingtonafra.com
"A female demonstrator offers a flower to military police on guard at the Pentagon during an anti-Vietnam demonstration.", Courtesy, National Archives and Records Administration, Records of the Office of The Chief Signal Officer (111-CC-46331)
"Women protest the U.S. presence in Vietnam 1969, Courtesy University Archives, Arizona State University Libraries"
Betty Friedan, Photograph by World Telegram & Sun photographer Fred Palumbo. 1960, Library of Congress, Reproduction Number: LC-USZ62-20997
Kennedy, Robert. Appearing before the Platform Committee, Photograph by Warren K. Leffler, 1964, Library of Congress, Reproduction Number: LC-U9-5415-30
President's Family leaves Capitol after Ceremony, John F. Kennedy Library (Boston, MA)
Photograph of White House Meeting with Civil Rights Leaders, June 22, 1963, 06/22/1963,John F. Kennedy Library (Boston, MA)
Alan Ginsberg at the Human Be-In October 1967, Courtesy, www.summeroflove.org
MARTIN LUTHER KING, JR. at a press conference at the Capitol, Washington, D.C., Photograph by Marion S. Trikosko, March 26, 1964, Library of Congress (LC-U9-11696)
Alan Shepard, Apollo 11 Moon Landing, Courtesy NASA
Woodstock Photo, Courtesy Alvin Lee, 1969
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N
THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980
Image Credits Photo of Earth, Courtesy NASA
Kent State Shooting Aftermath, Courtesy, the Bettman Archive, UPI
Peaceful Protest in Washington D.C., 1971 b/w photographs, 1971. NYU Archives Photo Collection, Courtesy New York University
President and Mrs. Nixon's arrival in Peking, China, Nixon reviewing troops at the airport., 02/21/1972, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD)
Watergate Complex, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD)
Watergate Burglers, 1972 UPI/Bettman Archive
Henry Kissinger, right, shaking hands with Le Duc Tho in Paris after their agreement on the cease-fire terms of the Vietnam War, 1973, www.britannica.com
Photo of Gas Station with "Sold Out Today" sign, 1973, United States Department of Energy
The Supreme Court Building, United State Government Printing Office
Richard Nixon departs from the White House before Gerald Ford was sworn in as President, By Oliver F. Atkins, Washington, DC, August 9, 1974, Nixon Presidential Materials Project, National Archives and Records Administration"
Deng Xiaoping and Jimmy Carter at the arrival ceremony for the Vice Premier of China , 01/29/1979, Jimmy Carter Library (Atlanta, GA)
Three Mile Island, Three Mile Island - April 11, 1979 (Source: NARA)
Dior’s Dinner Taffeta; your own shoulders, padded hips, Vogue, April 1947
"Paris The Wow Proportions," Vogue, March 15, 1965, page 86, from the Author's collection.
"The Beautiful Full Body", Givenchy, , August 3, 1962, Fairchild Publications Archives
Escargo, Prêt-A-Porter, Vogue, 1967
"Try Police Not Huey" opening day Huey P Newton trial - Oakland Court house - l969, www.newsreel.us
Earth Day Pin, Courtesy, www.geosound.org
Photo of Earth, Courtesy NASA
Hippies, http://discosantigos.com
Image copyright (c) 2004 by Philo Vivero. Image created using free tools available at http://faemalia.net/Fractals
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N
THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980
Image Credits Punk Hair Styles by Peter Gennard EFIAP/p, www.theoldschoolhouse.com
"Oh to be in London,” Time, April 15, 1966, pp. 34-35, General Collections, Library of Congress (283)
Image of Mod Clothing, Vogue, September 1, 1965, page 197, from the Author's collection
#3008 - c. 1960's "Andy Warhol" Campbell's Soup Paper Dress, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
Wearable Art, Courtesy, Robert Hillstead; photographer, John Nollendorfs
Designer Rudi Gernreich's "No-Bra" bra in nude tricot for Exquisite Form manufactured, 1969, , December 10, 1969, Fairchild Publications
Triple Vision Pantyhose, www.vintagepantyhose.com
Good Girl, Bad Girl Pantyhose, www.vintagepantyhose.com
Bodysuits, July 31, 1969, Fairchild Publications
Empire Waist Dress, Vogue, May 1963, page 163, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications
A-Line Dress, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 133, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications
Evening Dress, Vogue, March 1, 1967, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications
Two Evening Dress, Vogue March 1, 1967, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications
Illustrations from Women's Wear Daily, May 5, 1971, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications.
Ungaro Advertisement, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 82, Courtesy, , Condé Nast Publications
Julie Driscoll, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 116, Courtesy, , Condé Nast Publications
Sketch form Women's Wear Daily, September 1971, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications
"Buy Longuettes…Bye-Bye Minis", , September 17, 1970, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications
Mila Schon, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 101, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications
#3920 - c. 1965 Incredible, Hard-to-Find EMILIO PUCCI Brown Twill Print Pants Suit, www.antiquedress.com
#4146 - c. 1960's EMILIO PUCCI Fabulous Silk Mini Dress/Tunic, Bellbottom Pants, and Original Tie Sash, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
Illustration of Woman in Dress for Success Look, Courtesy Fairchild Publications
Vintage 70's Floral Maxi Dress with Attached Asymmetrical Scarf, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com
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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N
THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980
Image Credits Vintage 70's Bright Rose Pink Halter Maxi Dress, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com
Vintage 70's Black Evening Gown with Shimmering Sequins Bodice, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com
Vintage 60's Bias Cut Animal Print Maxi Dress with Scalloped Hem, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com
Charles de Castelbajac, Women's Wear Daily, April 7, 1976, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications
#9174 - c. 1960's White Silk Dupioni Mod Hat, www.antiquedress.com
#4299 - c. early 1970's CHRISTIAN DIOR from Saks Fifth Avenue Grey Wool Felt Floppy Hat with Matching Crochet Trim, www.antiquedress.com
#9317 - c. 1960's MISS DIOR, by Christian Dior Off-White Chiffon Pom-Pom Beret, www.antiquedress.com
#9316 - c. 1960's CHRISTIAN DIOR Chapeaux, Paris, New York Light Beige Plush Hat with Black Patent "Bow", www.antiquedress.com
#9143 - 1970's Tan Leather Cap, www.antiquedress.com
Purses, Wallets and Jewelry, Courtesy, www.chelsea-girl.com
1960's and 1970's Sunglasses, Courtesy, www.klasik.org
Men's Underwear, Men's Wear, January 9, 1968, Courtesy Fairchild Publications
1960's Man's Suit, Daily New Record, February 14, 1967, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications
Continental Style Suit Illustration, Courtesy Fairchild Publications
The Nehru Suit, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications