4174 buggy whip digital homebook

9 4174 Buggy Whip Drive 9

Bainbridge Island, WA

Welcome Home!

Mature Landscaping

Covered Front Porch

Living Room

Family Room

Family Room / Casual Dining / Kitchen

Kitchen

Formal Dining Room

Bedroom #1

Bedroom #2

Master Suite

Guest Room over Garage

Exterior Back and Deck

Open and inviting, this beautifully designed home offers 3 over-sized bedrooms and 2.5 baths plus a fully finished detached studio (384 square feet ~ not included in total square feet) and a 3/4 bath for fantastic Bonus/Office. This classic home on a private acre setting features a welcoming covered entry porch and a sunny backyard deck for entertaining. Open kitchen/great room combo; granite counters, custom cabinetry and hardwood floors; enjoy 9 foot ceilings and an abundance of natural light throughout. MLS #782015

Jackie Syvertsen

Managing Broker 206-790-3600 call/text [email protected]

4174 Buggy Whip Drive


S

Legal Description



S

Building Inspection Report and

Paid Invoices for contracted

work done

WSDA ICN 4263AR020 CRIS UGLES

BUILDING INSPECTION SERVICES, INC. PO Box 10006, 4092 Crystal Springs, Bainbridge Island, WA 98110. (206) 842-1514 Voice / Fax

WA State pest-structural license #44222. WA State licensed home inspector #501. International Code Council, Building Inspector IRC/UBC (International Residential Code/Uniform Building Code) #0873986-10.

Page 1 of 40 October 7, 2014 Michael Brendzel c/o Susan Grosten Bainbridge Island, WA 98110 Re: Job #14-312MB. Cursory four-hour consult is for the home and garage/studio located at 4174 Buggy Whip, Bainbridge Island, WA 98110. Dear Michael, This is a very nice home for age and type. There are some repair and maintenance items in need of attention. These items are listed below along with some improvement recommendations that will help give better service and life out of the home. These professional observations and opinions are just that, this is not a warranty or guarantee of any kind. An italicized/underlined item number, or letter, indicates any item conducive to

wood destroying organisms, per State guidelines. For the purpose of this inspection the front door of the home is considered to be facing west.

"R" List - Repairs and Items in need of attention.

1. The following electrical items need attention: a) The interconnect is not working for the smoke detector on the main floor of the home. It should be setting off the smoke detectors upstairs, but is not. This may be just a loose wire. The home has a combination smoke/CO detector in the corridor area upstairs. It is tied into the interconnected, hardwired smoke detectors here. There are smoke detectors in each bedroom, and one on each level. When one goes off they all should go off. They are all working and are interconnected, other than as noted above. There are CO detectors on each level, and a plug-in type on the ground floor, and a combination type upstairs in the corridor. b) Replace bulbs or fixtures as needed to get all light fixtures working. The overhead lights are not working in the garage. These are basic ceramic light fixture bases, no globes. c) The ceiling fan/light fixture in the master needs further assessment to verify operation. It requires a remote control to operate it. There are no wall switches to control this. The remote control was not out in sight, so this was not checked today. When I last inspected the home the control was available, but I was not able to get it to operate. It looked like the system needed new batteries.

Michael

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Needs Repair.

Michael

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I'm confused: are the fixtures not working, or are the bulbs in need of replacement?

Michael

Sticky Note

Marked set by Michael

Michael

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Ask Seller to verify operation.

CRIS UGLES BUILDING INSPECTION SERVICES, INC.

PO Box 10006, 4092 Crystal Springs, Bainbridge Island, WA 98110. (206) 842-1514 Voice / Fax WA State pest-structural license #44222. WA State licensed home inspector #501.

International Code Council, Building Inspector IRC/UBC (International Residential Code/Uniform Building Code) #0873986-10. October 7, 2014 Page 2 of 40 Michael Brendzel

2. Further assessment by a specialist is recommended for inspection and cleanup as needed for what appears to be typical wood type mold or mildew on the west roof slopes in the attic. This appears to be more significant than when I looked at the home a year ago. I understand that Environix looked at this last year. Refer to that paperwork. If mold; it needs to be properly cleaned up, as it will spread. Have this specialist also check the attic of the studio, although access path will need to be cleared to allow this access. This is not an inspection for molds, and I am not a mold specialist. Conditions conducive to mold exist under most homes and can exist elsewhere in a home due to many different conditions. Items italicized in this report (conducive to wood destroying organisms) may also be conducive to molds.

a) Further assess and clean up including assessing for further conducive conditions. Two of the many specialists are Environix at 1-866-497-9977 (http://www.environix.com/), they assess and do clean-up and offer a warranty, or NVL Labs at (888) 685-5227 who do assessment only, no clean-up. Another resource for mold or mildew, and do it yourself clean-up, prevention, etc. is available from the EPA at http://www.epa.gov/mold/cleanupguidelines.html I recommend using a company for cleanup that will also further assess for conducive conditions and that you address those conditions as identified. Look at the warranties offered by different companies. I like the work done by Environix, as they offer a good warranty. They clean and then apply a white encapsulating paint to the affected areas so you have a "zero point" to monitor from. Other companies will use a clear encapsulating retardant, so you can't tell if mold has been eliminated, or has gotten worse. b) As part of cleanup, further assess for conducive conditions and eliminate them. Conditions noted today are:

i) There is no longer a functional whole house fresh air ventilation system. The system that was here was disabled with the installation of the new heat pump.

http://www.environix.com/

http://www.epa.gov/mold/cleanupguidelines.html

Michael

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Big concern. Can we get a copy of last year's report from Environix? Also, an estimate for remediation?

Michael

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Note this.

Michael

Sticky Note

Marked set by Michael




The two time clocks are taken apart and sitting here under the home (on the water heater) adjacent the air handle. Originally there were two 24-hour time clocks, one for the exhaust fan upstairs, and one for the fresh air intake system. There is no exhaust fan in the home on a 24-hour timer, etc, and so the required entire fresh air system is no longer functioning. This must be restored. See next repair item below. ii) Insulation has come loose from the attic access hatch. iii) Some of the eave vents are restricted by cardboard baffles sliding down/ coming loose. iv) Replace fan switches in bathrooms with a one-hour timer so you can run the fans for a while after showers to help remove excess moisture. When adding or replacing fans, consider one of the newer super-efficient and super-quiet DC bathroom exhaust fans, such as the Panasonic WhisperGreen, which can be controlled with a timer or motion sensor. They can be set to run at a low CFM continuously, and ramp up to exhaust full on for a set period when activated by the timer and motion sensor. http://shop.panasonic.com/shop/model/FV-08VKM2

3. Have heating contractor work with an electrician to install/restore operation of the Whole House Fresh Air Ventilation system. This system was installed and working at one time and is the best balanced type of system for fresh air exchange (actually exceeds the minimum requirements) and must be restored. Verify location and installation of a dual voltage timer or install one, and restore/verify the functions for fresh air intake and stale air exhaust as describe here. It is important to understand and use the “whole house, fresh air ventilation” system once it is again functional. This system entrains a small amount of outside fresh air and mixes it with circulating house air via the heating ductwork, while exhausting stale air via the exhaust fan in the a bathroom or the laundry room. This home is built to newer “tight” and well insulated standards, and so is very good energy wise, but it does not breath sufficiently. The home has potential to be a bit like living in a plastic baggy, where moisture, bioaerosals, etc. cannot readily escape. Recognizing problems, due to the tight energy standards, WA State started requiring some form of fresh air venting system in 1991. Fresh outside air is brought into the home’s heating ducting via a small “fresh air” duct routed from the outside, which only draws fresh air in when an automatic damper in the duct is open and the air handler

http://shop.panasonic.com/shop/model/FV-08VKM2

Michael

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Needs repair.

Michael

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Let's get an estimate on the cost of the mold remediation and the Whole House Fresh Air System, and figure out some kind of allowance.




(furnace) blower is on. This mixes in a small ratio of fresh air to a much larger amount of recirculating house air. This mixture of fresh air and house air is filtered and evenly distributed to each register in the home, so there is even fresh air “make up” throughout the home. To expel stale house air in sync with the fresh air intake, this system is tied into an exhaust fan in the home, and a single 24-hour timer located in (should be in the closet where the access hatch is, was under the home) controls all. This timer should be set to come on for eight hours a day per the code, however many people find that fewer hours is satisfactory. I suggest setting this timer for at least two hours in the morning and one or two during the day, and one or more hours in the evening. Ideally not during sleeping hours, as the exhaust fan sound may be bothersome. This system is important as it will exhaust damp stale house air and bioaerosals, and bring is fresh outside air, much like having a window “cracked” open in each room, but much more effective. Remember; reset timer after power outages. I can supply you with more information if needed.

4. I am not able to access the attic hatch for the studio/garage building because of stored items in the closet, and this should be checked also to verify not mold, etc. The hatch is screwed to the ceiling inside the closet. This is a cathedral ceiling and there are scissor trusses. The slope of the ceiling is less than the roof slope, so there is little space here. Clear the closet out to allow placement of ladder to access, and then the area should be further assessed, verifying the condition of wood structures, etc.

Michael

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Need access and to get Cris back.




5. Replace rodent fouled insulation and clean up the crawlspace as needed. Under floor insulation is fairly well tied up under the home, and so at first glance it looks pretty good; however, it is loose in various areas now and pulling it back I find it is significantly fouled from rodents. There is another year's worth of rodent activity here. A year ago I noted insulation should be replaced. The smell is pretty significant as you enter the crawlspace, and this does affect indoor air quality too. Insulation in place was not well installed. It was installed flush with the bottom of the floor joists. It is coming loose in areas. Insulation is the old R-19 standard. This insulation installation method fine, as long as there are no voids, but any small voids from animal activity or people working such as exist here, create a place where cold air can flow between insulation and floor joists. Such voids exist in various areas. Checking the insulation where it looks good from below, there is rodent fouling inside and above. Significant cleanup is needed in the crawlspace from rodent fouling. A company such as Clean Crawls at (206) 447-9996 http://www.cleancrawl.com/Crawlspaces-Attics.html or Boulton Insulation at (360) 373-3778 http://www.boultoninsulation.net/ should be hired to clean up the crawlspace.

a) Remove all insulation.

http://www.cleancrawl.com/Crawlspaces-Attics.html

http://www.boultoninsulation.net/

Michael

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Needs repair

Michael

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Michael

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Michael

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b) Roll up plastic to capture all debris and dispose of it, along with any loose wood scraps. Vacuum droppings off footings, foundation walls, etc. Pick up wood scraps and any other debris from under the home too. c) Spray to sanitize and eliminate pheromones. d) Spread new six mil black visqueen to fully cover all soil under the home. e) Further assess the perimeter for access points and do occlusion work as needed, such as:

i) Seal any gaps where wiring or plumbing, wiring, and ducting penetrates floors, both as a draft stop, and as a rodent barrier.

ii) Further assess perimeter. Use additional 1/4-inch wire mesh and close off the gap where the Comcast cable lines are run through the south crawlspace/foundation vent and at the foundation/crawlspace vent on the north side of the home.




These gaps are large enough to allow small field mice into the crawlspace, and these gaps were pointed out last year.

f) Insulate floors to the current code standard of R-30 up against the floors. Install insulation as needed where missing or fouled on heating ductwork and water lines. g) Set traps and maintain. Baiting and/or trapping for rodents is often an ongoing battle in our wooded environment. The key to rodent control is blocking their access points. Fall is the time of year when rodents tend to come into homes after sources of food and cover are gone. The best way to determine if rodents have gained access is to set a trap (with peanut butter for bait) inside in the fall. Check the bait to see if any has been taken. If it has, you know rodents are in, and so the exterior of the house needs to be checked carefully for any voids.

6. Further inspection is needed by a specialist to verify there is a backflow preventer in place, and that yearly certification has been done for the irrigation system and its functions. I see sprinkler heads, and a control valve box adjacent the front porch and another at the back southeast corner. I do not assess landscaping items, irrigation/sprinkler systems, etc. Ask sellers who they have maintain the system. Typically lines are blown out this time of year and systems are shut off and drained down. In the spring they are started back up, lines are checked, heads are repaired or replaced as needed, a backflow preventer test is done, etc. 7. Further assess and make repairs as needed for the garage vehicle door opener. The sensor light on the north side has loose wires (as it did a year ago), and so the door won't go down and close without the button being held down. Replace the wire or sensor as needed, then further assess and verify the door reverses when it hits an obstruction or when the sensor lights across the opener are interrupted, as it should.

Michael

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Please ask Sellers

Michael

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Please ask Sellers




8. The shower/tub control valve is not turning the water on at the studio. It appears to be frozen up. Have a plumber further assess, make repairs as needed, verify operation, and that there are no drips or leaks.

9. Install the required graspable handrail on one side of the steps leading up to the front porch. Anywhere there are four or more rises or steps up in a run of stairs a graspable handrail is required on one side. 10. Replace the missing doorstop and repair the wall behind the door going to the master bedroom. 11. The digital display is not working for the Jennair wall oven. Repair or replace as needed.

Michael

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What's not working on it? Is it not showing the temperature?

Michael

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Michael

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What's wrong with the wall behind the door? What doorstop?




12. The American brand electric water heater is marginally sized for the home and is not well installed. It is only a 47.5-gallon capacity unit. It has a single earthquake strap at the top. Code in effect for when this was installed required earthquake straps at the upper and lower thirds, and an expansion tank which should both be completed here. Also, this water heater is likely too small to fill the whirlpool tub. Either install a bigger water heater or install a second water heater so that you have two, piggybacked together for a total of 90 - 100 gallons of hot water. The water heater was manufactured in 2008 and so is 6 years old. Typical life expectancy of a water heater is around 12 - 15 years. It is working and doesn't show any signs of drips or leaks. 13. Cut back the back panel a bit more at cabinet under the kitchen sink to allow access to what appears to the water main shut-off for the home. Ask the seller to verify this is the water main shut-off? I tried to operate the valve, but could not readily as it is be difficult to operate, as it is down tight to the cabinet base.

"M" List - Maintenance items in need of attention.

Michael

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Michael

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Please confirm with Sellers




1. Caulk gaps between siding and trim at weather exposed areas, such as on the south side and north side of the home and west side of the garage. Original blind caulking is in place. It can be seen looking between the siding and trim. There are voids in the blind caulking and the condition of the caulking is not known. Use a clear, paintable surface caulking to close off gaps.

2. Do some minor sanding and repainting at the south and more weather exposed window trim and sills and at the chimney area. Some minor paint touchup has been done here, but did not cover well. This can wait until next summer.

3. Clear debris from crawlspace/foundation vent wells where vent wells are at or slightly below grade, such as on the northeast side of the home, east side. Place some rock or install a small vent well to maintain soil sloping away and debris clear.




4. A contractor has made a repair at the northwest corner of the chimney where there was some rotted sheathing from splash off the roof interface with the chimney. The contractor notes this was the cause, and that the damaged materials were replaced, along with adding flashing to divert water back onto the roof.

a) Sanding and repainting are needed where the roof interfaces, as paint is peeling. This may be remnants from prior leakage that occurred, or water running off the roof to chimney area. Caulking has been done between the corner board and chimney and siding in this area. This looks good and should be maintained. This is an area to monitor. It is always a vulnerable detail having roofing tie into a chimney on the side where roofing slopes down to the chimney.




b) Roof diverter flashing above the chimney is not well installed. The roofing should have been lifted up and nailing done through the flashing underneath the roofing so roofing overlapped the nails.

Instead the nails are done where water will be directed against them. Some tar patching has been done in these areas. This looks tight, and probably will perform fine, as long as the areas are maintained and checked. Yearly, check the chimney above the roofline, and check these flashings. Caulking has been done between corner boards and siding above the roofline.

Michael

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Should be redone correctly




The top piece of trim has been painted, but could use a heavier application of paint next summer.

5. Gutters would benefit from being cleaned at this time. Gutters are continuous metal, 25-year type. Overall they are in good condition.




Pick up limbs on back of garage roof as part of this work. Check for limb damage whenever cleaning gutters and roofs.

6. Clean nests from yellow jackets and mud wasps out of the roof jacks for bathroom exhaust fans. Pull the screens and clean these out. This will restrict the performance of the exhaust fans. Check these yearly. 6. Ask sellers for a copy of the last sweep report for the pellet stove, or consider having this further assessed as part of the sale. A full and thorough assessment of the flue and pellet stove requires a chimney sweep.

Michael

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The pest guys should take care of that, too.

Michael

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Please ask the Sellers for this.




The flue for the pellet stove now appears to be clean when looking down the flue from the roof top.

8. Clean the back of the garage vehicle door with a chlorine bleach solution or any similar wood cleaner, 30 second cleaner, etc. There is some typical wood type mold or mildew on the back from bringing wet vehicles in. It is just normal maintenance to occasionally clean the wood here.




9. Surface cracking noted at the fiberglass bathtub adjacent the drain does not go through, and is not a leakage concern at this point. This can be repaired and is recommended, by a knowledgeable repair person, such as April Tower at (253) 307-2796. 10. Master shower needs weep holes cleared and grout would benefit from being sealed again. Overall the condition of tile and grout looks good in the master shower. Running water on the tile and taking readings with a Protimeter Surveymaster SM radio frequency moisture meter, there was no retained moisture.

a) Grout soaked up a little bit of water in some areas, so I recommend having grout resealed prior to moving in. To see if it is time to seal grout or tile, spray some water on it. If it turns dark it is soaking up water and it is time to seal. Use a good quality sealer, as it will last longer, go on and clean up easier and not change the color or character of the grout or tile.




b) Also clean out weep holes, which are the small recessed indentations in the fiberglass pan, where the tile meets the pan on either side of the sliding shower door. Weep holes need to be open to allow the area behind to breathe, and dissipate moisture that may gather behind tile.

11. Replace the stopper mechanism for the left-hand sink at the upstairs hall bath. This is sitting in the cabinet below.

12. The heat pump should be serviced and further assessed. The last service log on the air handler/furnace under the home dates from 2012. It is very important with heat pumps to have an annual service call to prevent overheating and damage to the unit. Ask specifically for both interior and exterior coils to be cleaned, or efficiency will be dramatically reduced. This is a York Infinity heat pump system. The model number is YZF03613CA, serial number W1M0431710. I don't find a readily identifiable manufacture date or date code. Ask sellers if they know the age. Typical life expectancy of heat pumps is around 16+/- years depending on care. There is an installation certificate at the main electrical panel for the heat pump showing approval in 2011 so the heat pump is three years old. The heat pump was operated today and is working.

Michael

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Michael

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Please ask the Sellers




a) The filter is clogged, which puts significant strain on the blower motor, is hard on the compressor, and can cause overheating and damage to the system. You will need to check your air filters monthly and replace or clean them as needed, as clogged filters may significantly shorten the life of the system. At this time there is a large surface area, 2-inch thick filter being used, which allows for less frequent changing. Filters should still be checked every couple of months. The filter goes in the compartment under the house, just to the left of the air handler/furnace. Filter size is 20 x 25 x 2 inches. Install filters with airflow arrows pointing right. See "I" list below about relocating filters to the return air grilles in the home to make this maintenance chore easier. b) Amperage checks should be done on the blower motor and compressor along with servicing the system, and a satisfactory report given on condition.

c) There was a squeaking sound coming from the crawlspace when I opened up the crawlspace access hatch. This turned out to be the return air rigid ducting against a support post. I was able to get this to stop




squeaking for a bit by pushing it away, but it started to squeak again. Strap this so it is away, or perhaps a piece of dense rubber padding could be put in place. A heating contractor should further assess this as part of servicing the heat pump. d) Be sure that you get the warranty documents for the heat pump and that they are filled out appropriately. Typically they will list the installer’s name and contact information.

13. There is a gap under the garage vehicle door on the two sides, most notably on the right side looking at this from the exterior. This is just normal cracking and settling of the concrete slab. An additional piece of weather stripping may be placed here if desired to help seal this. This may be an access point to the garage for small mice. 14. Yearly generator servicing should be done in preparation for the heating season unless seller has re receipts showing this has been completed. Changing oil, filters, checking spark plug, battery condition, etc. are all important yearly maintenance tasks for the generator. "I" List - Improvements for consideration.

1. The following electrical improvements should be considered: a) Replace circuit breakers in the panel feeding bedroom areas with new arc fault type breakers. This provides additional fire safety protection to bedrooms and is a recent code requirement. b) Add an electrical outlet to the corridor area upstairs. This would be required if the home was built today, and was typically done at this age of construction. c) Add a wireless interconnect type smoke detector at the house and one at the studio, so that if there is a problem in one area you will be notified in the other.

2. Add a small water heater for the studio bathroom and above the garage. This is taking hot water from the water heater in the house, and so it takes quite a while for hot water to get here. This likely would require a bigger circuit to the studio building unless a propane on demand type was installed. 3. In addition to the required CO detector, I recommend that you install a low CO level (30ppm) detector, such as CO Experts, or Defender LL6070 low level CO monitor, or ProTech 8505 Commercial CO Monitor.




4. Insert borate Impel rods at all wood areas exposed to moisture or areas vulnerable to pest damage. These borate rods will disseminate the borate fungicide from the inside out, preventing decay and insect infestation. This is considered a low toxic and very effective solution. For additional information go to http://www.sansin.com/pds/IMPEL%20Rods.pdf for charts, application, rates, etc. Impel rods can be purchased at www.ewoodcare.com These are some areas I would install these rods.

a) A poor/vulnerable detail exists where concrete is brought up to the bottom of the siding with the walkway sloping toward the garage "man" door on the side. Monitor the area. As a proactive measure, install borate Impel rods to help preserve wood structures behind. This area is protected by the breezeway roof and so shouldn't get much water. Metal flashing should have been installed between the concrete and wood structures, with 1-inch or more clearance between the siding and concrete. Insert the rods approximately an inch above the concrete, every 8 inches horizontally in this area. There is some concrete footing/foundation sticking up in this area, so there isn't much actual concrete to wood contact occurring and so minimal exposure or risk.

http://www.sansin.com/pds/IMPEL%20Rods.pdf

http://www.ewoodcare.com/




b) Add borate Impel rods at wood casings, a few inches above the metal threshold for the back door. This is an area where there was some prior water damage. Flashing is now installed here. The contractor notes that he made repairs to this area. The Impel rods will prevent rot from occurring at door casings. Differential movement occurs where wood meets metal threshold and small gaps allow moisture in. This is a common area to see damage start in door frames. There is some weathering and minor cracking showing here. Insert the rods, then caulk and paint as needed.

c) Insert borate Impel rods at the support posts supporting the front entry porch. Install the rods a few inches above the soil level. These are ground contact pressure treated posts and so are rated to be in contact with the ground, but I often find them rotting around this age, as the center of the posts isn't treated. Impel rods will protect the centers and keep them from rotting. Today I probed most of these at and below the soil level and did not find any posts that are significantly rotted at this time.




5. The following deck items should be done. Here is an excellent link for instructions to build a deck, railings, etc. to current code with required details and descriptions; please view (and print) this: http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

a) Install lag screws at the deck attachment to the home. This has been required for the last 10 years or so.

b) Add at least two hold downs to secure the perpendicular joists of the deck to the home. This is to secure heavy loads and for earthquake securement. This has been required for the last year. The deck joists are just toe-nailed to the ledger joist and the ledger joist is nailed into the house, so there are no lag screws or positive connection of the joist to the home other than the nails, which are subject to direct withdrawal.

http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf




6. Use a paint stick or other indelible marker and write the phone number of who to call should there be an alarm right on the alarm box. The alarm box is on the exterior southeast corner of the home. I don't assess septage systems, so further assessment by a specialist is recommended.

7. Add flashing or roofing to protect the tails of the barge/rake fascias. 8. Add an access hatch to flat ceiling areas on the south bedroom area/portion of the home. This will provide much better overall attic access and assessment. At this time access is through the sloped cathedral ceiling of the master closet. The sloped scissor truss area has very little clearance once you get through here, so access and assessment are restricted and difficult at this time. 9. Add additional blown-in insulation to the attic to bring it up to the current code standard of R-49 for flat ceilings. At this time insulation is approximately R-30 to R-38. There are Puget Sound Energy (PSE) credits for adding insulation. See the item above regarding improving access by adding an access hatch.




10. Move the filter location from underneath the home. At this time you have to go underneath the house, turn on the light, and crawl over to the air handler/furnace to access the filter at the left side. Put in a filter receiver at each of the two return air grilles in the home. There is one upstairs and one downstairs on the walls. Having filters inside the home makes for easier access, and so filters are more likely to be changed as they should. 11. The pellet stove goes up the flue that appears to have been originally for a wood burning zero clearance type fireplace. There is a double wall stainless steel flue liner and a small flexible liner for the pellet stove. Pellet stoves are often changed out these days, going back to a woodstove or fireplace, or more typically a propane fireplace, which provides heat when the power is out. A propane fireplace is a true-rated heating device, and there is no need to keep wood or pellets on hand. A pellet stove needs electricity to operate, and you have to have a store of pellets on hand. I do not know if the fireplace can be restored, if you wish to go back to wood burning. You would need to pull out the pellet stove and further assess the condition of the firebox and flue to see how they were altered for installing the pellet stove. 12. Install a large propane tank you are not having to change propane tanks and so the generator will be able to run for a few days if need be. Verify generator propane consumption not know how long the propane supplied with these small propane tanks would run. Also, consider an automatic transfer system so you do not have to go out and start up the generator, run the plug-in, and manually switch over the breakers.

"O" List - Observations worthy of note and items to be monitored.

1. All roofs are showing excessive wear. This is from hard mechanical cleaning and/or heavy moss growth. Granule loss will significantly shorten the life of the roof. Monitor the roofs. There are 5 years of life left in the roofs, but perhaps not much more due to the significant granule loss, when the roofs should have lasted another 15 years. Monitor the roofs. They may go longer, but it is impossible to know exactly how long. Roofs are clean at this time.

Michael

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Roofs on the garage and house buildings are an architectural composite “30-year” type. Roofs have continuous ridge vents and eave vents for the best combination of ventilation.

Overall flashings look good at penetrations. Top quality Velux skylights are installed at both buildings. Bathroom exhaust fans have appropriate roof jacks installed. Any moss that grows on roofs should be treated using a liquid moss killer, which will absorb more uniformly and treat more effectively than a granular or powder type. Do not pressure wash or scrape roofs clean before treatment. Mechanically removing moss can damage roofing, removes protective granules, and so can shorten the life of the roof. Also, mechanical treatment is not effective. Roots and tendrils remain alive and moss will quickly grow back. Once moss has died after treatment with liquid moss killer, you can broom sweep it off, use a low pressure wash, or just let the rain wash it off.




The previously small rotted area of the breezeway roof at the smaller north slope of the center section has been replaced with new roofing, sheathing, and flashing where the penetration of the support post had started to leak. This all looks good. Monitor the area. This is a vulnerable detail with the penetration of the roof.

Kick-out flashings have been installed at step flashing terminations.




2. Structural conditions in the attic of the main house look fine. There is scissor truss type framing with loose fill fiberglass insulation and OSB sheathing. Over the second and third bedrooms there are standard trusses and flat ceilings.

3. The home and garage/studio are siding with western red cedar shingles. Overall siding looks good. Trim is white wood, likely cedar, wrapping windows. Trim is in good condition in all areas. There is metal flashing above. Cedar siding has a lot of tannins and oils in it and so is very resistant to decay, and so is a great siding material. Adding a stain or oil to cedar greatly prolongs its life. The visual condition of the siding is a good indicator of when it would functionally benefit from stain. If the siding starts to soak up moisture, is stained, changes color, etc., it would functionally benefit from being restained to help protect it. You can just let the siding go natural and it will last 25 or more years, but if you keep a stain or oil on it, it will last 75 - 100 years.




There are a few bird droppings on the siding where birds, or perhaps a batt, has roosted in the past at the roof eave vents. I don't find any voids in the screen. This may be a bit of a nuisance, but no hazard. If this becomes more widespread, additional screening can be done at the roof eave vents to prevent roosting. 4. Refer to contractor's notes on repairs made. Ask sellers for the contractor's contact information should you need additional issues addressed that relate to work done. 5. Flashing above windows and doors is not sloped for drainage, as is typical for this age of construction. Just Z-metal or L-metal was used. It is important to maintain caulking in these areas. There are no signs of leakage or damage from this.

It is important to maintain caulking at the ends of flashing in weather exposed areas. As is typical at this age of construction, flashing is installed with a 90° angle, so the horizontal portion coming out over the top trim may act like a gutter, letting water run to the two ends. It is important to install and maintain caulking at each end of the flashing areas exposed to weather. This is primarily just the south and north sides of the home and west side of the garage. Yearly, this area should be caulked and maintained, along with maintaining trim and siding areas. An excellent set of details and descriptions for required flashings is on page 9 of this link from siding installation guide from the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association http://www.realcedar.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/installingsiding.pdf

http://www.realcedar.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/installingsiding.pdf

http://www.realcedar.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/installingsiding.pdf




To more properly install flashing to current details, pull the top trim, install appropriate Z-metal flashing with the angle between the vertical leg (part that goes behind the siding) and the horizontal leg (part that goes over the trim) bent out greater than 90 degrees so water is drains off the front, and then reinstall trim, bending the flashing ends up and making sure flashing is sloped out for drainage. 6. The dryer duct is clean at this time. Check it at least yearly and clean as needed. 7. Water flow appears to be better than it was when I looked at the home last year. There is good water pressure, but the flow is still a little marginal, such as at the master whirlpool tub. It takes quite a while to fill the tub. I consider flow functional at shower heads at this time. Water pressure is measured at 70 psi at the exterior faucet. This is good water pressure, within the 40 - 80 range dictated by code. Exterior water faucets are the frost-free type with backflow preventers. This means if hoses aren't connected in the winter they will self-drain back a few inches into the wall where the valve is, and thus with no water in the exterior portion of the faucet are less likely to freeze. Note that they are not protected against freezing. In extreme cold weather, when the temperature drops into the low 20s or lower at night, I feel it is prudent to wrap even frost-free faucets. 8. Every year, check caulking above light fixtures that are exposed to weather, such as adjacent the garage vehicle door, and the fixture off the back/east deck area.




Caulking is in good condition at this time. Also go over caulking at windows and do paint touchup where weather exposed, such as at trim on the south side of the home. 9. Ask sellers for manufacturer's information, and specifically for maintenance and warranty information for the plastic composite decking at the back deck.

Proprietary cleaning instructions from manufacturers often proscribe the maximum psi and solutions to be used. There have been a number of failures of plastic composite decking over the last decade, so it is important to have the warranty information and properly maintain the materials. The deck looks to be in very good condition and is performing fine. There is some minor flexing or bowing noted. The material does expand and contract. The deck is flashed at the attachment to the home. Framing is ground contact pressure treated materials, which will be long-lived. There are no signs of damage to framing.




10. The crawlspace is dry. The home is nicely anchor bolted to a continuous concrete foundation. Overall wood structures under the house look very good. There are no visible signs of mold or mildew.

Floor framing is engineered truss wood I-beams for a nice, structural engineered floor system. There are no signs of any water intrusion.




Water shut offs for the hot and cold water lines run out to the garage studio are under the home south crawlspace area. Water supply plumbing is copper and waste lines are ABS. These are both good, long-lived materials. The structure here overall is well built, has performed well, and I expect it to continue to do so. 11. The original insulation certificate for the garage/studio building shows insulation was R-19 in walls, R-30 for floors, and cathedral ceilings R-30 for this area. This building is on a continuous concrete foundation, with standard wood-framed construction with scissor trusses for the roof system. There is a concrete in-fill slab stubbed out for drainage for the garage. There is an appropriate door with weather stripping at the top of the stairway leading into the habitable studio space.

12. Power for the home is provided via a 200 amp. 240V/120V Cutler-Hammer electrical panel. This is a good quality panel. There is an approval for cover for the house wiring by the Department of Labor and Industries in 1999 and a final OK for electrical service in 2000, so the effective age of the home is a little over 14 years.




Located directly under the main panel is a small generator subpanel and it is these items which maybe run off the generator. Due to sizing of the generator you may not be able to run all items in the subpanel at the same time but can trade-off between items if need be. This panel is fed off of the main panel and easily can handle the items in it in this typical operation. All wire sizes are appropriate for breakers here. Refer to the next item below for additional information regarding this panel and the generator.

Electrical power to the garage and studio above is marginally sized. There is a 60 amp, 240/120V Cutler-Hammer panel in the garage for this building, but it is fed off a 40 amp breaker in the generator subpanel at the house, so there is only 40 amps of power available here. The panel is located behind the "man" door as you come into the garage. Wiring inside all electrical panels is professional and neat. All wire sizes are appropriate for breakers. No signs of any overheating are noted. All grounded wiring is run with copper for most circuits and multi-stranded

Michael

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aluminum for large amperage circuits and main feeds. These have the proper anti-oxidant gel on them. This is fine and is as we would do today.

13. There is a permanently mounted small generator on the south side of the kitchen. There are two small 20 pound/5-gallon propane tanks hooked together to the generator, and two extra propane tanks in the garage. There is also a short electrical cable to connect the generator to the generator plug-in adjacent the side door to the house. The cable is coiled and next to the extra propane tanks. I operated the generator and it started right up and sounds good.




The procedure for operating the generator system is to plug it in to the provided proper reverse plug-in adjacent the side door, using the supplied cable (red arrows above). Start the generator (simple push bottom start green arrow above), then go to the house to the generator transfer panel at the small subpanel, labeled Briggs & Stratton, directly under the main panel.

Turn off the breaker supplied by the utility. This allows you to slide the metal interlock up and turn the generator supply breaker on. You then will be able to run items as needed in the panel. You may not be able to run everything in the small subpanel as the line from the generator is 30 amp/240V and this subpanel has a 40 amp breaker for the garage, and 20 amp for septic, 15 amp breaker house refrigerator, and some house lights on the subpanel. 14. There are no overhead lights or lighting in the ceilings at the various areas, bedrooms or studio, and so the top half of some of the outlets in these rooms are switched for lamps via the wall switches adjacent the door as you walk into these areas. There is attic access, so if desired, light fixtures could be added relatively easily.




15. Shock safety protection is provided for the exterior electrical outlets at the front and back deck by the GFCI outlet in the closet opposite the kitchen peninsula. Electrical outlets in the garage are shock safety protected by the GFCI outlet on the north wall of the garage, including the outlet for the garage door opener. If something doesn't work in this area, you likely just need to push the reset button on that outlet. Shock safety protection is provided at the point of use for the bathroom in the studio. Each bathroom has its own GFCI shock safety type outlet that protects itself and any other outlets in that particular bathroom. Shock safety protection is provided for all electrical outlets serving kitchen countertop and kitchen island areas via GFCI's at the point of use, or GFCI's to the right of the kitchen sink. Every month or so, trip GFCI outlets to keep them functioning properly and to prevent them from freezing up. 16. The home and garage/studio building have vinyl framed thermal pane Insulate brand windows. These are a good quality window, typically sold and installed by Olympic Glass on Bainbridge Island.

The single hung windows may be lifted out by lifting the small tabs inside the window frames on each side, and then lifting the windows up and to one side.




This captures the spring and so allows them to be taken out for cleaning and/or repairs of spring mechanisms, etc.

17. Electric heaters are not part of any recalls. Electric cords, furniture, etc., should not be up against or lying on electric baseboard heaters in the studio. There should be at least 12 inches clearance to combustible items in front of this type of heater. The two electric baseboard heaters in the studio are Cadet brand. For information on Cadet baseboard heaters go to http://www.cadetco.com/support/ownersguides/1004.pdf for owner’s manual with clearances to combustibles and maintenance information. Follow maintenance and owner's instructions for the Cadet model C-102 fan-driven wall heater in the bathroom at the studio. The heater is not part of the various recalls. The heater is operating. For Cadet fan driven wall heaters owner’s manual with clearances to combustibles and maintenance information go to http://cadetheat.com/download/Register-owners-guide.pdf see pages 5 and 6.

http://www.cadetco.com/support/ownersguides/1004.pdf

http://cadetheat.com/download/Register-owners-guide.pdf




18. The required tempered glass is installed above the whirlpool bathtub. Today I filled and ran the whirlpool bathtub and checked underneath and no drips or leaks were found. There is limited access or visibility with insulation stuffed around the tub. I pulled back the insulation in the area around the pump motor and connections.

The pump is plugged into the required GFCI outlet at the lower left access hatch at the tub surround. It is working as it should.




19. Dryer exhaust ducting has been straightened out. It is no longer kinked. 20. Change batteries in smoke detectors at move in and every six months. Current recommendations from the National Fire Protection agency are to replace smoke detectors every 10 years. 21. Ask sellers where the roof water drains discharge. All roof water drains into 4-inch PVC underground drains, which is very nice. These smooth wall pipe systems perform a lot better than corrugated black plastic type. All roof water surface drains and footing drains typically discharge into a single catch basin/drain box with a round lid in the yard, off of one lower corner. From here, water is discharged via a single pipe to an infiltration system or some other storm water area. This collection/catch basin needs to be cleaned out on occasion and should be checked yearly. If it is not known where this is located, or if there is one, this needs to be further researched. Information may be available at the City. These were typically required from around 1995 on. The bottom of surface drain boxes is lower than the outflow drains so dirt and debris can collect and not clog the drains. Be sure to clean any drain boxes out before dirt and rocks reach the outflow drain level. 22. Flush water heaters once every year or two to help remove sediment and improve efficiency. You don’t need to turn off the water or electric to the water heater to do this. Just hook up a hose to the drain valve bottom of the water heater, and run it outside. Then open it up to flush until the water is running clear. 23. The trash compactor was operated today and appears to be working. The dishwasher was run through a cycle today and checked underneath and no signs of drips or leaks were found. While some appliances may have been run during today's inspection, appliances (range, refrigerator, dishwasher, disposal, clothes washer, dryer, etc.) are not part of this inspection. The life cycle of an appliance varies greatly by brand, model, etc. “Typical life expectancy” as gleaned from a study by the National Association of Home Builders is 6 years for disposals, 9 years for dishwashers, and up to 15 years for gas ranges. http://www.nahb.org/fileUpload_details.aspx?contentID=99359 24. The geological formations necessary for radon to be in the ground are limited on Bainbridge and in our area of the state, and so homes here are not tested as they are in other areas. https://fortress.wa.gov/doh/wtn/WTNPortal/IndicatorPages/RadSmokeLC.aspx It is beyond the scope of this

http://www.nahb.org/fileUpload_details.aspx?contentID=99359

https://fortress.wa.gov/doh/wtn/WTNPortal/IndicatorPages/RadSmokeLC.aspx

Michael

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inspection to check granite countertops, etc. for radon issues. The few instances where I know homes have been tested on Bainbridge have had super low “non-issue” results. You may purchase a radon kit at a local hardware store ($20-$30) and test if you are concerned. There are many differing opinions on this subject. One good source of information is the EPA website at http://www.epa.gov/rpdweb00/tenorm/granite-countertops.html 25. Low and high voltage electrical systems and water feature or sprinkler systems that may be installed in the landscaping outside and around the home are not part of this inspection, nor are fences, retaining walls, etc. Have a landscaping contractor or company further assess these systems if you so desire. 26. I went through the home today with a circuit analyzer/line load simulator and checked one or two electrical outlets in every room under a 15 amp. load for voltage drops that would indicate loose or damaged wiring. 27. Bathtubs were run, but not filled to overflow drains and so overflows were not tested. All tubs and showers were run and checked underneath the home, and around the fixtures for leakage. Unless otherwise noted in this report, no leaks were found. 28. If a home has had water damage some insurance companies may charge an additional premium. Prior to issuing a new policy the insurance company will query a central data base. The query is called C.L.U.E., which stands for Comprehensive Loss Underwriting Exchange. If you would like to see a copy of the CLUE report, the homeowner can obtain a copy of the report on-line. 29. WAC 16-228-2045 requires that a rough diagram/drawing be prepared for Wood Destroying Organism (WDO) reports. If the pictures and descriptions in this report are not adequate, a drawing is available upon request. No wood destroying insects are found during today’s inspection. Carpenter ants, etc are not active during the colder months and so it is wise to further assess and monitor the homes perimeter during the warmer summer months when ants are on the move, and be sure to address and monitor any conducive conditions as identified in this report. 30. Quality and adequacy of the water supply and septic system and site drainage are not part of this inspection. 31. Please ask the owner to provide layout drawings or to sketch out all buried lines for water pipes, electrical, curtain drains, septic or sewer lines, etc. 32. Ask the owner for any manuals, receipts and warranties for the heat pump, pellet stove, roofing, windows, appliances, etc. 33. These professional observations and opinions are just that, this is not a warranty or guarantee of any kind. If I can be of any assistance to you or any contractor, please call and I will gladly answer any questions. Thank you for the opportunity to inspect this property. Sincerely, Cris Ugles

http://www.epa.gov/rpdweb00/tenorm/granite-countertops.html

INVOICEDate

11/17/2014

Invoice #

404597

Bill To

Michael Brendzel4174 Buggy Whip Dr.Bainbridge Island WA 98110

Schatz Services, Inc DBA Environix

Terms

Due on receipt

Due Date

11/17/2014

Rep

JSP

Technician

Phone # Fax #

Email Web Site TotalBalance Due

Sales Tax

Payments

A 2% finance charge per month will be charged for accounts not paid within 30 days. Minimum 5.00charge on past due accounts. This price reflects a 3% cash or check discount. Any other forms of

payment will be subject to increase in price indicated.

425-563-6480

[email protected]

425-328-1554

2027 196th St. SW, SuiteA101

Lynnwood, Wa 98036

www.Environix.com

Indoor Environmental SpecialistsENVIRONIX

Thank you for your business! Subtotal

Item Description Qty Rate Amount

Attic Containment... Containment/Site Prep - As Per Bid/Contract 1 75.00 75.00T2 Stage Attic Treat... 2 Stage Attic Treatment - As Per Bid/Contract 1 3,750.00 3,750.00TAirSeal AirSeal Penetrations - As Per Bid/Contract 1 300.00 300.00TBaffles Re-attach or replace baffles as needed. As Per

Bid/Contract20 12.00 240.00T

Can Light Covers Installation of Can Light Covers - As Per Bid/Contract 3 50.00 150.00TSubtotal 4,515.00

Finance Charge 147.23 147.23

$5,055.04

$0.00

$392.81

-$5,055.04



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Septic System As-Builts



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Septic System Pump Report

Owner:

Location:

Submitted 09/11/2014 by:Laura Hubbell

John Perkins

4174 BUGGY WHIP DR NE

Bainbridge Island

Tax ID: 04240220892002 ALLCOUNTY OPERATIONS, INC

P.O. Box 752

Keyport, WA 98345-0752

360.779.9609

5/6/2015

Jurisdiction ID:2042356:0

Use:

Service Company:

TANK PUMPING REPORT

Serviced:09/05/2014 by: David Arnold

Dump Location: Central Kitsap Wastewater Treatment Plant

Site Name: Perkins, John

COMMENTS

Media Filter: Biofilter, Manufacturer= Glendon BioFilter Technologies, Inc. - M-31

Total Gallons pumped from tank (Number only, no text): 550

Effluent surfacing around site components (N/A if not checked): NO

Amount of Sludge in stand pipe













TANK: Septic Tank - 2 Compartment

This tank was not pumped or serviced.

TANK: Pump Tank

This tank was not pumped or serviced.

Page 1 of 1ReportID: 195151 View pump reports online at www.onlinerme.com

This report indicates certain characteristics of the onsite sewage system at the time of visit. In no way is this report a guarantee of operation or future performance.



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Septic System Inspection 2014



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Health Department Property

Conveyance Approval Letter

10/6/2014 3:09:16 PM

Applications powered by the SkipThePaperApplication ID: 12362

Property Conveyance Application

Property Conveyance ApplicationApplication Summary:Submitted: 10/2/2014 8:42:31 AMCompleted: 10/6/2014 3:09:16 PM

Application No: 12362Reviewer: Brown, Steve

AddressesApplicant's Address

Winifred PERKINS4174 Buggy Whip Drive NEBainbridge Island, WA 98110

Contact MethodsEmail: [email protected]: 561-346-1157

Property InformationWinifred PERKINS4174 Buggy Whip Drive NEBainbridge Island, WA 98110

Property Tax Account #: 042402-2-089-2002

Current Property OwnerWinifred PERKINS4174 Buggy Whip Drive NEBainbridge Island, WA 98110

Contact MethodsEmail:Phone:

Seller's AgentSherri Snyder

Contact MethodsEmail: [email protected]

Buyer's Agent Contact MethodsEmail:

Title Company Contact Contact MethodsEmail:

Billing AddressWinifred PERKINS4174 Buggy Whip Drive NEBainbridge Island, WA 98110

Contact MethodsBilling Phone: 561-346-1157



Property Address4174 BUGGY WHIP DR NEBainbridge Island, WA

QuestionsGeneral

Q: Is the home currently occupied?

A: Yes

Q: How many bedrooms does the home contain?

A: 3

Q: What year was the home built?

A: 1998

Q: Is the current property owner the original property owner?

A: No

Q: Please indicate who the original property owner was. (Please enter "Unknown" if you do not know whothe original property owner was.)

A: unknown

Q: Is the current property address the original property address?

A: Yes

Q: Are there dogs or other constraints present, which would prevent access to the septic system area(s) forinspection by the Health District?

A: No

Q: Is there a second unit with a separate septic system on the property to be transferred? (PLEASE NOTE: Fullapplication fees will be required for second units with a separate septic system, unless application is made atthe same time).

A: No

AcknowledgmentsQ: Is the drainfield area clear of vegetation and accessible for inspection? (Please note: This is a requirement.

Secondary inspections will require re-application with additional fees.)

A: Yes

Q: Are water samples being requested?

A: No

Q: Is the property served by an alternative septic system, which requires an annual Operation & MaintenanceContract?

A: Yes



Q: My septic system type is alternative. The septic system has had its annual inspection completed withinthe last 12 months, and a report is available. (Please note – Answering NO will result in an item ofnon-compliance on the conveyance letter.)

A: Yes

Q: My septic system type is alternative. An annual Operation and Maintenance Contract is in place.

A: Yes

Q: Do the septic system records include a Record of Construction or a Record Drawing? (i.e. As-Built)

A: Yes

Service SummaryService FeeEvaluation - Septic Only $202.00

Total charges for application: $202.00

Payment LogDate Amount Description Bank Response

10/2/2014 $202.00 Application Fee This transaction has been approved.

Total amount Paid: $202.00

These remarks do not constitute approval, denial or guarantee of the functionality of the reviewed onsite sewage system, but are a statement of the facts and findings observed through the evaluation process.

kitsappublichealth.org

Monday, October 06, 2014

Winifred PERKINS 4174 Buggy Whip Drive NE Bainbridge Island, WA 98110

RE: FACTS & FINDINGS FOR ONSITE SEWAGE SYSTEM INSPECTION & EVALUATION FOR PROPERTY OWNERSHIP CONVEYANCE

Property Address: 4174 Buggy Whip Drive NE, Bainbridge Island, WA Tax ID Number: 04240220892002 Application Memo#: 12362 Dear Winifred,

Pursuant to Section 13.D of Kitsap County Board of Health Ordinance 2008A-01, Onsite Sewage System (OSS) and General Sewage Sanitation Regulations, The Kitsap Public Health District completed a field inspection and record evaluation for the onsite sewage system serving the above referenced property, and presents the following facts and findings:

GENERAL FACTS & FINDINGS:

1. OSS Approved: 4 Bedroom OSS Approved on 5/7/2009*

2. Record Drawing or Record of Construction available? Yes No

3. Contracted for Monitoring & Maintenance: Yes No N/A (not required)

4. Last Inspection date: 9/5/2014

5. Last Tank Pumping date: Not Needed per Last O&M Inspection

6. Date Property Vacated: Occupied at time of inspection

At the time of the Health District’s site inspection and evaluation conducted on 10/3/2014, there were no apparent signs of surfacing effluent.

The following items of note were identified:

1. The original Glendon mounds were installed in 2000, then rebuilt/replaced in 2009. 2. The Glendon mounds themselves were pumped on 9/5/2014.

Please Note: The residence on this property utilizes an alternative method of sewage disposal, which requires regularly scheduled monitoring and maintenance. Monitoring and maintenance is required to be performed by a person certified by the Health District as specified in the Kitsap County Board of Health Ordinance 2008A-01 and WAC 246-272A.

For questions or comments regarding this report, please contact the Health District at 360-337-5235.

Pg. 2

Report prepared by:

Steven J. Brown Onsite Sewage Program Environmental Health Division



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Preliminary Title Report

Pacific NW Title

4174 buggy whip digital homebook

Documents