Classification of Textile FibresAccording to origin Chemical composition

Fibers

Fibers are the basic units or the basic components in

textiles.

They are the smallest particles that make up yarn.

Yarns

Yarns used in the production of fabrics use

different types of fibres as their raw material.

Developments of fibres Till the beginning of 20th century all fibres in use were natural

Around 1891-92 the first man-made ‘Artificial Silk’ (Viscose rayon) was discovered

In 1938, Dupont developed the first synthetic polyamide fibre ‘Nylon’, followed by the development of polyester

Thus a distinct class of man-made fibres/ synthetic fibres were developed

1950-60s –acrylic, PP, PVA, Teflon, Lycra were developed

In the last fifty years of research a host of new improved man-made cellulosic, protein, aramid and functional fibres have been developed

Fibres Natural fibres

Man made fibres

Classification of fibres

FibresNatural Man-made

Vegetable/Cellulosic

Animal/Protein

Mineral

Cellulosic

Synthetic

Protein

Mineral

Metallic

Natural fibres Natural fibres are materials that grow in nature Cotton Flax Silk Wool

Man made fibres

Man made fibres are fibres created by man through technology. The

fibre-forming ingredients of man-made fibres are extruded, twisted or

spun to form a long chain polymer.

Man made fibres are divided into two groups-

Regenerated man made fibres

“True” man made fibres

Regenerated man made fibres- are made from cellulosic substances

or natural materials such as petrified wood, cotton linters, corn protein,

milk or seaweed.

The substances are reformed or generated by chemical treatment or may

be processes into usable fibres.

“True” man made fibres- “True” man- made fibres are synthesized

completely from non cellulosic substances or chemical substances such as

petroleum derivatives, nitrogen, hydrogen and carbon.

Composition /Origin of Natural Fibres Fibre Type Origin

Cotton Cotton boll/ Seed hair

Kopak Kopak Tree/ Seed hair Coir Coconut husk/nut husk fiberCellulosic / vegetable fibres Hemp Hemp or Abaca stalk/Bast fiber Jute Jute stalk/ Bast fiber Flax Flax stalk/ Bast fiber Ramie Rhea or china grass/ bast fiber Pina Pineapple leaf/leaf fiber Sisal Agava leaf/ leaf fiber

Fibre type Origin

Silk Cultivated, Doupioni or wild silk worms

Animal /Protein fibers Specialty Fur fibers Selected fur bearing animals

Specialty hair fibres Camel and goat family animals

Wool Sheep

Mineral fibers Asbestos Verities of rock , Silicate of Mg and Ca

Rubber Fibers Natural Rubber Rubber Plant

Composition /Origin of Man made Fibres Fiber Type Origin

Acetate Cotton linters or woodCellulosic / Vegetable fibers Rayon Cotton linters or wood Triacetate Cotton linters or wood

Protein Fibers Azlon Corn or Soybean

Mineral Fibers Ceramic Minerals Glass Silica, sand, limestone Graphite Carbon

Metal Fibers Metallic Al, Silver, Gold, stainless steel

Rubber fibers Rubber man made/ synthetic

Fiber Type Origin

Anidex Monohydic Alcohol/ Acrylic Acid

Acrylic Acrylonitrile (85%)

Modacrylic Acrylonitrile (35%- 84%)

Nylon Polyamide

Man made/ Synthetic long

chain polymer fibers Nytril Vinylidene Dinitrile ( 85%)

Olefin Ethylene or Propyleme (85%)

polyester Dihydic Alcohol- Terephthalic acid

Saran Vinylidene Chloride (80%)

Spandex Polyurethane (85%)

Vinal Vinyl Chloride (50%)

Vinyon Vinyl Alocohol (85%)

Essential properties Abrasion Resistance- is the ability to resist wear from rubbing that contributes to fabric

durability.

Exp- Nylon is used extensively in action outerwear, such as ski jackets , and soccer shorts,

because it is very strong and resist abrasion .

Absorbency – Absorbency is the ability to take in moisture.

Fibers able to absorb water easily are called hydrophilic fibers.

Hydrophilic fibers- all natural animal and vegetable fibers and two manufactured fibers,

rayon and acetate.

Hydrophobic fibers- fibers that have difficulty absorbing water and are only able to absorb

small amounts .

Skin comfort, Static build-up, dimensional stability in water, stain removal, water

repellency, wrinkle recovery

Cover- cover is the ability to occupy an area. A thick fiber or one with crimp or curl gives

fabric better cover than a thin, straight fiber.

Elasticity- is the ability to increase in length when under tension (elongation ) and then

return to the original length when released (recovery)

Lengthening when tension is placed on the fiber or fabric makes for a more comfortable

garment and causes less seam stress.

Environmental conditions- the effect of environmental conditions on fibers vary. How

fabrics react to certain exposure or storage , is important. The following are some examples-

Wool garments needs to be mothproofed when stored because they are susceptible to

damage by these wool eating insects.

Nylon and silk show strength losses from extended exposure to sunlight. Therefore , they are

normally not used for curtains and drapes.

Cotton has poor resistance to mildew and should not be allowed to remain wet for long

periods of time.

Flammability- is the ability to ignite or burn.

Fibers are usually classified as being flammable flame resistant , or flameproof.

Flammable fibers- are relatively easy to ignite and sustain combustion.

Flame-resistant fibers- have a relatively high ignition temperature and slow rate of

burning .

Flame proof fibers- will not burn.

Regular polyester is flammable , but Trevira polyester , which is flame resistant.

Flexibility- is the capability of fibers to bend easily and repeatedly without breaking.

Hand- is the way a fiber, yarn or fabric feels when handled. The hand of the fiber is affected by its shape, surface and configuration .

Luster- refers to the light reflected from a surface. Various characteristics of a fiber effect the amount of luster.

Increased light reflection occurs from a smoother surface, less crimp, flatter cross sectional shape and longer fiber length.

Pilling- is the formation of groups of short or broken fibers on the surface of a fabric that are tangled together in the shape of tiny ball called pill.

Resiliency- is the capability of a material to spring back to shape after being creased, twisted or distorted.

A fabric that has good resiliency does not wrinkle easily

Specific gravity- is the ratio of the mass of the fiber to an equal volume of water at 4degree

c .

Static Electricity- is a frictional electric charge caused by the rubbing together of two

dissimilar materials.

Strength- is a fiber’s ability to withstand stress.

Tenacity- the force needed to break the fiber, is known as tenacity and expressed in grams

per denier or grams per fiber weight.

Glass, Nylon and Polyester are very strong. Acetate and acrylic are weak.

Thermo plasticity- the ability of fibers to withstand heat exposure is an important factor

affecting their suitability for many end uses.

Wicking- is the ability of fiber to transfer moisture from one section to another. Usually the

moisture is along the fiber surface, but it may also pass through the fiber when a liquid is

absorbed by the fiber.