134en dachshund genreh dog crochet pattern v4 chirkova example · skill level: experienced dog...

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ü Main color yarn for the main parts – I used 11 g of “Aelita” by Moscow

Yarn Company (781m/100g, 50% wool, 50% acrylic).

ü Black color yarn for the nose – I used small amount of “Aelita” by

Moscow Yarn Company (781m/100g, 50% wool, 50% acrylic).

Tip: Make sure the main yarn and the yarn for the nose crochet to the

same gauge.

You can buy this set of yarn here

https://www.etsy.com/ru/shop/LittleOwlsHutRUSSIAN

ü Steel crochet hook. I used 1.0 mm crochet hook for the yarn mentioned

above.

ü Any material for tinting in black and/or dark brown colors – I used dry

pastels.

ü Sewing and tapestry needles.

ü One bead for the nose (any color) – I used 8 mm in diameter.

ü Two beads for the joints (any color) – I used 3 mm in diameter. You can

do without these two beads and substitute them with stuffing.

ü Two black beads for the eyes – I used 4 mm in diameter.

ü 12 beads for the toes (any color) – I used 4 mm in diameter. You can do

without these 12 beads and substitute them with stuffing. If you choose

to use them, go to Wire frame with beads section first before you start.

Crochet Pattern

By Chirkova Tatiana

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com

Dog Dachshund Genreh Skill level: Experienced

About this pattern Please, read the whole pattern carefully before you start. I’ve tried to do my best to present you with accurate pictures of how to crochet and decorate the dog. Due to the presence of small parts and wire the dog is not suitable as a toy for little children. I really hope that detailed step-by-step instructions and pictures will help you to gain experience and provide you with satisfaction from creative work. Everybody works differently. This pattern is just a guideline to help you make your own unique doggie. It is up to you to decide the way your toy will look like! I use USA terminology for my pattern (don’t worry if you use UK terms, all the differences are explained in the pattern). Finished size 9.5 cm (3.7 inches) tall using the materials stated in the pattern.

Materials

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LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2017


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ü Stuffing.

ü Fabric tape to work up the wire (the one you use to

cover wounds).

ü Wooden stick for stuffing hard-to-get places.

Tip: If you don’t have special sticks for stuffing, it is

very convenient to stuff hard-to-get-to places using

wooden sticks, toothpicks (if opening is very small),

or brushes of different thickness with wooden

handles.

ü Black sewing thread.

ü Contrasting color scraps of yarn in two colors for

additional markers.

ü Wire – for the measurements stated in the pattern:

approximately 150 cm of 1 mm or other fine wire

(beading or jewelry wire is fine). I used a 75 cm

length of electrical type wire divided into 6

individual strands.

To make the leash you will need (for the size of the dog stated in the pattern): ü Suede strip – I used two pieces of black suede strip

3 mm wide: 13 cm / 5.1 inches and 6 cm / 2.4

inches

ü Split (jump) rings – I used 4 pcs (4 mm in

diameter)

ü Small clasp – 1 pc

ü A piece of chain – I used a piece 3.5 cm / 1.4 inches

long

ü Transparent glue

ü Pliers

Note: Check all parts for fit on your dog before

cutting, and adjust as necessary.

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Marker The toy is crocheted in continuous spirals (unless otherwise stated in the pattern) so you’ll need a stitch marker to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts. If you don't have a stitch marker you can always use a scrap of contrasting yarn instead. You can see it in my photos. Put it between the first and the last sts of the rnd leaving the short tail in front of you and the main part behind the work. Work the next rnd to the marked place and put its main part in front of the work. This simple way of putting the thread in front of and behind the work after each rnd will let you know where the beginning of your rnd is. After you finish, it is easy to pull the thread out. It is the quickest and the easiest way to mark rounds.

Tip (make it right) If there are no special notes, the toy is crocheted under both parts of the loop. In some rows, there are special notes: ‘into the front loop only’ or ‘into the back loop only’. In that case, you need to follow these instructions.

Gauge Please note that you should use much thinner hook than stated at the yarn label. 5 rows x 5 sc = 1 cm x 1 cm

Tip (make it right) When making toys the right side looks like this:

And the wrong side looks like this:

Abbreviations ch(s) = chain(s) st(s) = stitch(es) sc = single crochet inc(s) = increasing(s) (2 sc in 1 st) dec(s) = decreasing(s) (2 sc together) sc3tog = 3 sc together sc4tog = 4 sc together sl st = slip stitch dc = double crochet rnd = round If there is a record in the brackets in the pattern, multiplied by some number, for example (3 sc, 1 inc) x 3, it means you need to repeat this action 3 times, that is 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc.

USA/UK terminology comparison chart.

Abbreviations USA Abbreviations UK ch - chain ch - chain sc - single crochet dc - double crochet hdc - half double crochet htr - half treble dc - double crochet tr - treble tr - treble (triple crochet) dtr - double treble dtr - double treble tr tr - triple treble sl st - slip stitch sl - slip stitch

Other differences in crochet terminology used:

Terminology USA Terminology UK fasten off cast off skip miss gauge tension yarn over (yo) yarn over hook (yoh)

Skill levels Projects for first-time crocheters using basic stitches. Minimal shaping.

Projects using yarn with basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing.

Projects using a variety of techniques, such as basic lace patterns or color patterns, mid-level shaping and finishing.

Projects with intricate stitch patterns, techniques and dimension, such as non-repeating patterns, multi-color techniques, fine threads, small hooks, detailed shaping and refined finishing.

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Need help with this pattern? You can always ask any questions about this pattern

in our Ravelry group here

https://goo.gl/BBK3pv

Sides of your work Inner, outer and wrong side of your work:

Left and right side:

I recommend that you use different colors for the

markers of the left and the right sides, e.g. green

color contrasting scraps of yarn for the right side and

pink color scraps of yarn for the markers of the left

side.

Shift stitch As work tends to twist to the right you need to adjust

position of the marker periodically. Sometimes you

will have to work one extra stitch at the end of round

and move the round marker behind the last worked

st. This is a shift stitch. It will be mentioned in the

pattern and will not be counted. If you use a different

yarn to the one mentioned in the “Materials and

tools” section, you may need to work more or less

shift sts. In this case try to follow my stitch marker in

the picture making shift st(s) or unravelling a stitch

or more at the end of the round if needed. If you

follow the gauge mentioned in the “Gauge” section

(page 3), you will not need to work any shift sts other

than mentioned in the pattern.

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How to adjust the line of the round marker correctly Crochet certain amounts of rounds and fold the piece

in half. Lay the marker straight along the folding line.

Use this straight line as guidance as you continue.

Continue working following the pattern until you

notice that the marker has moved aside. Do not work

any shift sts until the marker has moved 1 st aside

(not less!). The amount of the worked rounds may

differ from 3 to 7 (it depends on your gauge, the yarn

you use and the sts the round calls for).

Repeat the steps above when you notice that the

round marker has moved again. The stitches of the

round marker should go in a straight line.

This line will help you adjust the marker when

needed.

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Wire frame with beads Please note that the pattern is based on a wire frame

without beads (see Front and Back leg sections) that

can be used for any yarn that is not too fine. If you

use the yarn mentioned in the Materials and tools

section, I recommend that you change the type of the

wire frame and the order of working the legs as

follows.

ü Crochet the first four rounds of the toe and

measure the size of the bead that will be used

instead of stuffing in this part of the toe and will

secure the wire inside the toe. The bead should

be neither too big nor too small. If the bead is

too big, it will loosen the fabric and the bead will

be seen through the fabric. If the bead is too

small, it won’t be able to secure the wire frame.

ü Finish crocheting the toe.

ü Put 3 beads onto a piece of thin wire using the

length of the piece as guidance. Twist the wire

frame. See Front and Back leg sections for my

measurements of the piece.

ü Add one more piece of wire to make the leg

firmer. Finish twisting the wire frame for the

front legs. Do not finish twisting the wire frame

for the back legs. You will be twisting it as you

go.

ü Crochet the outside toes around the wire frame.

The wire I use is soft and elastic enough. So it is

not hard to work if you bend up the wire that you

don’t need at the moment.

ü Start assembling the foot with the central toe.

Advantages of this wire frame: ü The wire frame perfectly matches the whole leg.

ü All toes are of the same length.

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ü The wire will not poke out of the fabric no matter

how you bend the piece.

ü No stuffing is sticking out as you crochet the

piece.

ü This wire frame is safe for children.

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Toe (make 8 – 2 for each leg)

Tip: If you insert a thin stick or wire into a toe while

working, it will be easier to crochet the piece where

there are so few stitches around.

Ch 2 and work in 2nd st from the hook:

Rnd 1. 6 sc (6) Rnd 2. 5 sc, 1 inc (7)

Rnds 3-4. 1 sc in each st around (7)

Add small amount of stuffing. Do not stuff further.

Rnd 5. (1 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 1 sc (5)


Fasten off. Weave in loose ends.

Front leg (make 2) Take two crocheted toes. You will need to make one

more toe to make the leg.

Toe Ch 2 and work in 2nd st from the hook:

Rnd 1. 6 sc (6)

Rnd 2. 5 sc, 1 inc (7)


Add small amount of stuffing. Do not stuff further.

Rnd 5. (1 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 1 sc (5)


Do not fasten off. Continue working the foot counting

the current toe as toe #1:

Foot Rnd 1. 1 sc along toe #1, 5 sc along toe #2, 3 sc along

toe#1, 5 sc along toe #3, 1 sc along toe #1 (15)

Place the round marker and continue working

around the joint pieces.

Rnd 2. 1 sc in each st around (15)

Take a piece of wire (I used 32 cm / 12.6 inches).

Twist and insert it into the foot. The length of the

wire for each toe should equal the length of each

crocheted toe.

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Continue working around the wire frame.

Rnd 3. 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1

dec (12)

Row 4 (short row). 6 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 sl st, turn (11)

Leave the remaining sts unworked.

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Toy Terrier Kerry Blue Terrier

Miniature Schnauzer

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Contacts: I’d love to see the results of your hard work! Please share photos of your finished creation directly on our Facebook page, add project to the pattern on Ravelry and Craftsy, email me, and/or find me on other sites. Just search “LittleOwlsHut”.

Tell me about your crocheting adventures, I would love to hear it.

Find me on:

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Copyright notes: ©2017 LittleOwlsHut. Finished products created with this pattern may be used for commercial sale, provided you comply with the following:

• The items must be 100% handmade by you - the purchaser of the pattern (no production-line allowed). Every person who uses my patterns to make items for sale must have their own copy of the pattern.

• Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on ‘LittleOwlsHut’ pattern, include the name of the designer and also include a link to my website (www.LittleOwlsHut.com)

• Any items you sell based on my patterns must feature only your own photographs of the item you have made to sell. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your work.

Text and images Copyright ©2017 by LittleOwlsHut, all rights reserved.

No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying, without written permission. I work very hard to design and write these patterns. Thank you so much for your understanding, and happy crocheting!

Warning: Because your finished project may have small parts, please be extremely cautious if you decide to give it to a child. Also, if you decide to sell your finished project, remember to include warning for people purchasing it.

134en dachshund genreh dog crochet pattern v4 chirkova example · skill level: experienced dog...

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