10 tips for shooting time-lapse

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  • 10 TIPS FOR SHOOTING TIME-LAPSEPosted at 14:17h in Tutorials by E. Pacheco 129 Comments

    During the past three years, I have thoroughly researched and practiced the technique of time-lapse photography. The

    knowledge gained has enabled me to create the great images that would otherwise have been impossible. Many people

    who watch my videos are wondering if they too would be able to make such images, and the answer is yes. Thanks to the

    modern technology and its affordable price, almost everyone has access to a digital SLR, and it does not take much more

    than that to take high quality time-lapses.

    Whether youre new to the technique of time-lapse or have experience, these tips will be very helpful when planning and

    implementing your time lapses.

    I hope that you enjoy them and put them to practice.

    1 .- Plan, plan, plan As the Chinese proverb says, if I had ten hours to chop down a tree, I would use seven in sharpening

    the ax. If we are going to make a time-lapse of a sunset, it makes no sense to do 30 miles by car loaded with our gear to

    get to the place chosen only two minutes before sunset. It is therefore very important to check both the sunsets and

    sunrises, and their orientation in respect to our subject and other possible elements, moon, tides, etc., which may come

    into play.

    A great tool for this task is The Photographers Ephemeris. We must get to know its interface, observing the sun and

    moon and their trajectory, planning ahead our location and only then to begin to prepare the gear.

    Share

    1 0 T I P S F O R S H O O T I N G T I M E - L A P S E

  • 2 .- Dont forget anything. When you go shooting time-lapse, you can spend several hours standing on a rock in the middle

    of nowhere, so you have to be well prepared. I wouldnt want to sound like your mom, but it is worth reminding you that

    you should take with you enough of water and food. If its winter, spare socks, a warm coat, gloves And if its summer,

    more water, a hat and sunscreen. A fully charged cell phone and something to read is a must. Oh and do not forget the

    camera and tripod.

    3 .- Tripod, our best friend. Stop dreaming about expensive lightweight carbon tripod. What we really need is that old

    heavy tripod that nobody wants to carry. Keep in mind that your camera will remain in the same position perhaps for an

    hour or two. The slightest shake or rolling caused by the wind during the shots, will end up in a shaken take. If your tripod

    is not sturdy enough, you can hang your camera bag on it, or use stones to give it greater stability and rigidity. This is

    essential in long exposures.

  • 4.- Framing is key. Most of the times we arrive to the locations very excited, with so much energy that we are not able to

    visualize the scene, trying to find the right framing. Leave the backpack and tripod and take a walk around the area,

    imagine the shot, take a look at the scene, try to find the best location and composition.

    We must act as if we were going to take a single shot, as if we had brought a single roll of film in which, unfortunately, we

    have only one exposition. The time-lapse technique is essentially photography, and we should think of it as such. If we

    are thinking only of how the final video will look, well skip the details that make the difference between a good shot and

    an epic image.

    5 .- Basic camera settings. Some people will tell you that auto/priority mode and Jpg files are the best settings to make a

    time-lapse. Just as no one uses those settings when taking some quality photographs, to achieve professional results in

    time lapse we will use manual exposure and RAW files.

    Both manual mode and RAW files will give us greater control over our camera and during the postproduction. We must

  • remember that the camera is shooting for a long time, so if we use any automatism, the camera will try to correct every

    change of light and the color temperature. So if you shot it in JPEG, there will be no turning back.

    6 .- Live View. If your SLR has a good battery that lasts long , I would recommend you to use the Live View. By using this

    feature, the mirror will always stay up and not hit when the shutter fires, thereby avoiding possible camera shake. Also,

    the Live View allows us to visualize our shot in real time. If you also activate the histogram, you will also have the exposure

    under control.

    W O R K

  • 7 .- Focus accurately. It is very important to select the manual mode in both the camera and lens, if applicable. (If we have

    an SLR with Live View, we can also focus with the magnifying loup at the desired point.) In most of my shots I usually focus

    to infinity while I use wide angle lenses. In other cases, however, having elements of interest in the first or middle term, we

    must ensure that this is where the focus will be. Knowing the hyperfocal of our lens is always important, since many of our

    shots are of landscape and is in this case we want the longest depth of field.

    8 .- Avoid flicker. No, I`m not talking about the popular photography website. By flicker is known as the unwanted

    effect that occurs in the time-lapse due to slight differences in exposure between shots. This difference is that the

    diaphragm of autofocus lenses remains fully open until the shutter closes it, not always with the same size. Incredibly,

    there are tiny variations between takes.

    We have two solutions to avoid this problem. First, using manual lenses, my favorite solution, to ensure that the

    diaphragm is always kept fixed in the same position. The second and more accessible is to partially disconnect the lens

    from the camera to cut the communication between them, selecting the desired aperture ourselves using the depth of

    field button.

    9 .- Choose the right lapse. This is perhaps the most important point when dealing with a time-lapse. The interval

    between shots is what will determine the speed of our final video. The longer the interval, the quicker will be the

    movement of the elements of our shot, and vice versa. But we must adapt the interval to the real movement of our

    scenery.

    Confused? Here are a few suggestions of lapses depending on the scene.

    Clouds moving very slowly, interval of 10 seconds.

    Clouds moving normally: interval of 5 seconds.

    Clouds moving very fast: interval of 3 seconds.

    People walking down the street: interval of 2 seconds.

    Path of the sun on a clear day, nterval of 30 seconds.

    Night landscapes, stars, moon, etc.: nterval of 20 to 30 seconds.

    Raw Lightscapes

  • 10.- Knowing how long your time-lapse takes. This is the second major variable that we have to calculate. In many cases

    we know it, as in a football game or a sunset. Well set an interval and clip duration that gives us an adequate number of

    frames. On the contrary, if we are shooting a scene without beginning or an end, like a flowing of a river, the exposure and

    interval will determine the length of the shot.

    Some quick math: Knowing that we need 25 frames to create one second of video (in the European PAL system, in the

    United States it would be 30) a standard length of 10 seconds of footage will need 250 frames. Therefore, we only have to

    multiply 250 by our lapse to know how much time we need to invest in doing the time-lapse.

    It can happen that you do not know the duration of the event or you want to capture a long scene, like a thunderstorm

    formation. In these cases, the interval is the premium: choose the right one for the scene and select infinity or zero in

    the number of frames of your remote. Now you just have to be patient.

    Raw Lightscapesfrom Enrique Pacheco PLUS

    02:48

  • If you want to learn more, maybe you would like to attend to one of my workshops

    1 2 9 C O M M E N T S

    S U S A NPosted at 06:23h, 19 April Log in to Reply

    Amazing photos. Very beautiful. Love the dark sky oneit doesnt look like Earth. Looks like Im

    transported to someplace new.

    S H A N I Q U APosted at 08:51h, 09 May Log in to Reply

    its like the magical land of nuggets

    S E R GPosted at 18:16h, 17 May Log in to Reply

    Very good! Thanks.

  • S T UPosted at 20:19h, 06 June Log in to Reply

    Thanks for the tips, your two time lapse tutorials really sped up the learning curve. Got any handy tips

    regarding camera settings when shooting from day to night? What is the best way to handle that?

    Cheers

    P E D R O S N A T O SPosted at 08:55h, 09 May Log in to Reply

    HEYA STU! i will always love you, you have a place in my mexican heart. COME VISIT ME IN

    NEPAL

    D P SPosted at 10:13h, 15 October Log in to Reply

    Hey, i am visiting nepal in December. What about you?

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 18:33h, 21 October Log in to Reply

    Sounds fun, I think I`m going to Cuba, a bit warmer

  • N A M E * J O V I N O A V A R I APosted at 19:19h, 14 July Log in to Reply

    Comment Estimado/s

    Hoy tuve la suerte de ver programa en TV5(espaol), donde apreci el interesante trabajo de fotografiar

    con lapsos de tiempo. Sin duda la tecnologa nos hace encontrar nuevos horizontes. Felicito al equipo

    Escribo desde Chile,Concepcin, soy fotgrafo de aficin de algunas dcadas(Equipo Canon(anloga) y

    ahora digital

    Me impresion el trabajo por Uds realizado y agradezco la ayuda que prestan para aplicar la tcnica.

    Estar atento a las novedades que informan

    Felicitaciones

    Jovino

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 20:56h, 18 July Log in to Reply

    Gracias por tu inters.

    Un saludo.

  • F R A N C I S C O M A R T I NPosted at 09:14h, 19 July Log in to Reply

    Eduardo te felicito y te animo a que sigas sorprendiendonos a propios y extraos con tus magnficos

    trabajo. Soy un aficionado a la fotografa que disfruta con la observacin de tus trabajos. Una vez ms,

    reitero mi admiracin por el desarrollo de la tcnica as como por los emplazamientos elegidos. Las

    auroras son impresionantes.

    F R A N C I S C O M A R T I NPosted at 09:21h, 19 July Log in to Reply

    Enrique te pido disculpas por el patinazo en el agradecimiento del comentario anterior.

    Estoy trabajando con otro colega y su nombre es Eduardo y se han cruzado las neuronas. Un

    saludo y mil gracias por las imgenes as como por el acercamiento de la tcnica con tus

    sencillas explicaciones.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 15:37h, 20 July Log in to Reply

    Muchas gracias, saludos.

  • C A R L O S D E L A C A L L EPosted at 00:27h, 14 August Log in to Reply

    Hola enrique, fantasticos tus comentarios y tu trabajo. Tengo una duda. Cmo disparas, he leido algo de

    un intervalmetro, qu es, se puede conseguir fcilmente? para Canon.

    gracias por tu trabajo

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 10:08h, 15 August Log in to Reply

    Gracias Carlos. Para hacer timelapse slo necesitas un intervalometro como este:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timer-Remote-shutter-Realease-f-Canon-450D-500D-550D-

    600D-60D-G12-G11-SLR-Camera-/150874483595?

    pt=Camera_Camcorder_Remotes&hash=item2320d1eb8b

    Saludos.

  • J U A N T X OPosted at 16:35h, 27 September Log in to Reply

    Hola Enrique,

    Una consulta, me han encargado un time lapse de la construccin de una carpa que durara 20 das.

    Estamos acostumbrados a ver muchos time lapse pero casi todos estn realizados en pocas horas, pero

    cuando pasamos de un ida a otro y no queremos que la noche quede registrada en el video que vamos a

    fabricar como debera programar este trabajo? haciendo 25 fotos por da me quedara bien? el tiempo de

    exposicin cual seria? hay algn temporizador que ordene que empiece a fotografiar a tal hora y acabe a

    otra y al da siguiente vuelva a empezar?

    Gracias y un saludo

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 00:08h, 28 September Log in to Reply

    En esos casos se suele programar el intervalometro para que haga una foto cada hora o cada

    media hora, la camara en prioridad a la abertura y despus retocar bastante.

    Mucha suerte.

    N I C O L A S W E I D B E R GPosted at 15:26h, 03 April Log in to Reply

    Hola Enrique/Juantxomi problema es parecido, con el agravante de que s muy poco de

    fotografanecesit sacar fotos cada hora en ciertos puntos la costa de Sudfrica, tampoco

    necesito la noche, y el tiempo total rondara tambin los 20 dasdurante ese tiempo lo

    tendra difcil para cargar bateras, hay alguna cmara con semejante autonoma? se pueden

    configurar los periodos de reposo para que consuma lo mnimo posible? puede configurarse

    el intervalometro para que no saque fotos durante la noche? Muchas gracias por adelantado

    y felicidades por la pgina!

    L U K EPosted at 23:15h, 16 October Log in to Reply

    Thank you for the time you put into this tutorial! I found it very very helpful. Im having trouble shooting

    night time shots of stars and whatnot. Do you have any special tips for shooting top quality clear shots of

    the night time sky?

    -Luke

  • E . P A C H E C OPosted at 14:06h, 18 October Log in to Reply

    Hi Luke, and thanks.

    Best way is using a very fast lens, at least 2.8 and good camera, like 5DII. Iso 1600 and 30s is

    the usual set up.

    Good luck.

    P H I L J O N E SPosted at 11:49h, 14 July Log in to Reply

    Hi Luke. The star shooting bug got me some months back as well and yes, getting good

    results is no easy task and absolutely not for the impatient. There is a free package on the

    net called Stellarium which is a fantastic tool for planning. You can set location, date, time

    and know exactly how the sky will look the night you shoot. (Clouds permitting) If you want

    to go further then there are two other free packages called Deep Sky Stacker and

    Registax for stars and planets. Seems that the astronomy world is not about making money

    which is refreshing, these are all pretty sophisticated software packages. Tons of stuff on

    YouTube if you decide to take that path.

    My results so far have been fair but I also experiment a lot. Made the mistake of using long

    lens at first and found that they emphasized star movement (duh.bit of a no-brainer really

    but my loss) I have a photograph called sky sausages to remind me to do a bit more thinking

    in future.

    A wide lens will allow longer exposure. However, focusing becomes an issue because even

    the brightest star is difficult to see through the viewfinder (I dont have liveview). I use an

    18-55 lens, focus using the 55mm setting and then pull back to 18. Wide aperture and a high

    ISO as you find acceptable. At 18mm Ive done exposures of 60 seconds ISO 1600 without

    producing star-trails. I will be trying for longer exposures soon. If its timelapse you are after

    then a measure of startriling might even improve results.

    The stuff Enrique says about tripods is spot on. I got myself an astronomers tripod with an

    equatorial mount and built my own adapter for the camera. Weighs a ton but nothing moves

    it.

    Light pollution is the biggest issue for me. Finding somewhere truly black is not easy and it

    frustrating to find photographs showing a gradation from black to quite bright at the

    horizon when even after an hour in the dark, it isnt apparent to the eye. Ive come to believe

    that if you can see your camera then it aint dark enough.

    It is about patience but the stars are going to be there for a while yet. Just keep making the

  • It is about patience but the stars are going to be there for a while yet. Just keep making the

    changes to suit your kit and conditions. Good luck and sorry for the long reply.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 09:32h, 19 July Log in to Reply

    Thanks for sharing your experiences Phil.

    Cheers.

    K E V I NPosted at 06:00h, 28 August Log in to Reply

    Hi Guys,

    Ive been doing this sort of stuff for a month (so ive learnt a small

    amount of things :D) and i use a telescope for most of my work. As

    said by Phil, if you want to get good pictures of objects in the sky

    then find a computerized equatorial mount so that it not only

    tracks left to right, up and down but also rotates with the sky so

    that the object always has the same position and rotation on the

    CCD.

    Currently i dont have an equatorial mount so i get field rotation

    after about 60 seconds (this depends on how high it is in the sky,

    the higher the quicker it rotates with above 80 degrees being

    terrible)

    With the current setup, i have to put my ISO to the highest (6400)

    and limit the exposure to 30 seconds or so. When i get a better

    mount i can drop the ISO to 1200ish for less noise and do 5 minute

    exposures. The light pollution sometimes can be very bad so check

    when the moon is out and then stay home on those nights! Another

    trick is to take off the eye piece and attach the eye piece cover (this

    is a must).

    Not trying to grab money but this is my best work yet

    Thanks,

    Kevin

    K E V I N

  • K E V I NPosted at 06:01h, 28 August

    Looks like the link is a bit off but the last two lines will

    take you to where i was aiming.

    R I C A R D O A R M E N G O LPosted at 19:06h, 17 October Log in to Reply

    Muy buena informacin para los que estamos empezando con el Timelapse. Muchsimas gracias.

    M I C A H B U S HPosted at 05:34h, 20 October Log in to Reply

    For a time-lapse that I would want to do of the sunset and also have a nice transition to photograph the

    stars all in one continuous shot, how would I go about doing that?

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 20:56h, 20 October Log in to Reply

    You need a little brumper. Google it.

    Good luck.

    L O Q U E D E B E S S A B E R D E T I M E - L A P S E S G R A U L U M I N O T E C N I APosted at 07:36h, 23 October Log in to Reply

    [...] 10 consejos para hacer time-lapse [...]

    C A R L O SPosted at 19:45h, 24 October Log in to Reply

    Buenisimo. Gracias por compartir.

    Un saludo

  • J O S E M A R A M O R E N OPosted at 18:48h, 31 October Log in to Reply

    Gracias, Enrique, muy bueno.

    Una curiosidad, para evitar flickeos: cmo desacoplas parcialmente la conexin cmara-objetivo,

    dejando un diafragma fijo a tu eleccin?, En objetivos manuales no hay problema, pero en el resto la

    seleccin de la abertura es siempre por los contactos y se desacoplas parcialmente la pierdes. no?

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 21:01h, 03 November Log in to Reply

    En Canon hay que pulsar el boton de profundidad de campo y desacoplar la optica, pierdes

    la conexin pero asi bloqueas el diafragma y evitas el flickeo.

    J O S E M A R A M O R E N O S A N T I A G OPosted at 16:19h, 04 November Log in to Reply

    Llevo toda la vida haciendo fotos y usando casi toda la cacharrera imaginable,

    pero no lo saba!. Nada habitual dar con gente con talento y generosa,

    muchsimas gracias! El flickeo es uno de mis mltiples problemas con los time-

    lapses, muy difcil de resolver bien en edicin. Estos tutoriales de lo mejor que

    he encontrado. Gracias.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 15:04h, 05 November Log in to Reply

    Muchas gracias, me alegro que te fuera til.

    Saludos.

  • M A TPosted at 18:49h, 08 December Log in to Reply

    Hi Enrique!

    Great tips and great time-lapse clips.

    Just one question: do you drag your shutter or not?

    Thanks!

    Regards,

    Mat

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 17:29h, 11 December Log in to Reply

    Hi Mat, yes, always.

    cheers

    H T T P F O R U M S C R E A T I V E C O W N E T T H R E A D 2 8 0 4 9 8 5 H T T P K A T H Y S L I N K B O O KPosted at 16:54h, 11 January Log in to Reply

    [...] http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-tips-for-shooting-time-lapse Share this:TwitterFacebookLike

    this:LikeBe the first to like this. [...]

    P E T E R W O L F G A N G E S P I N E LPosted at 00:51h, 17 January Log in to Reply

    Gracias por los consejos amigo. Me fueron muy tiles!

    M I H A IPosted at 09:19h, 17 January Log in to Reply

    Hi! Great tips and beautiful photos. Thank you for sharing. Regards!

  • S I M O N F R E OPosted at 10:47h, 17 February Log in to Reply

    your advice in section 9 regarding timelapse of Clouds is reversed to what it should be

    Clouds moving very slowly, one frame every 20 seconds. (should be 5 seconds)

    Clouds moving normally: one frame every 10 seconds. (not sure what you mean by normal ? but perhaps

    1 second)

    Clouds moving very fast: a frame every 5 seconds. (should be 20 seconds)

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 18:02h, 18 February Log in to Reply

    I`m talking about the interval, maybe you got it wrong. Clouds moving very fast interval of

    20s? no way!

    T I M E L A P S E | A L L O | E S T U D I G R F I CPosted at 19:20h, 18 February Log in to Reply

    [...] deixo un timelapse dEnrique Pacheco i el seu blog on ens dona consells per a la realitzaci daquesta

    [...]

    S E R G I O R O J A SPosted at 09:17h, 27 February Log in to Reply

    Un tutorial completsimo! Enhorabuena por tu trabajo y por tu web Enrique. Un abrazo

    R O D O L F O P E ZPosted at 15:54h, 27 February Log in to Reply

    Como siempre tu trabajo es excepcional.!!

    D A V I DPosted at 08:39h, 19 March Log in to Reply

  • Muy buen tutorial. Me ha servido de muchsimo ya que estoy recopilando toda la info posible. He hecho

    algunos timelapses pero siempre han sido a modo de vdeo, no foto a foto, con toda esta info ya tengo, al

    menos, para volver a casa con algo que hacer despus de una larga noche jejeje.

    Enrique, una preguntita, y al hacer as fotos en Raw, disparamos a calidad total? como bajamos ese frame

    (5600px a 1920px) de tamao? Simplemente escalando en el editor de vdeo? o lo haces foto a foto con

    el Photoshop antes de pasarlo al editor de video.

    Tengo una Canon 5D mk II y un Carl Zeiss 18 Dsitagon 3.5

    Aunque no hace el efecto fisheye, si que estira a los lados, tu corriges esto de alguna manera o lo dejas tal

    cual? Lo digo porque si no disparo en horizontal, ensancha de abajo y estrecha de arriba o viceversa.

    Muchas gracias por toda la info!!!

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 13:16h, 19 March Log in to Reply

    En el tutorial de revelado con Lightroom explico todo el proceso.

    Nunca utilizo ojos de pez, odio las lineas curvas.

    Saludos.

    D A V I DPosted at 11:02h, 23 March Log in to Reply

    Pacheco, el mio no es un ojo de pez, no ahueva los extremos pero si es

    arquitectnico, y las lineas son rectas, lo que si no pones la cmara en

    horizontal, se nota esa curvatura. Que objetivo recomiendas? Veo que en tu

    video tambien tienes la cmara en horizontal, pero si quisieras coger mas cielo

    que tierra no te quedaria la imagen algo doblada? Que objetivo angular usas

    normalmente?

    Muchisimas gracias!!

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 11:07h, 23 March Log in to Reply

    Yo uso un 16-35mm, si levantas la camara con mucho angular

    obtienes distorsin de perspectiva, pero se puede arreglar en parte

    con LIghtroom. Yo es lo que hago.

    Saludos.

  • S H A W NPosted at 16:01h, 15 April Log in to Reply

    How long is the dolly your using?

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 22:07h, 15 April Log in to Reply

    One meter.

    V I N A YPosted at 05:28h, 04 May Log in to Reply

    liked it.good

  • D A V I D A H NPosted at 01:55h, 08 May Log in to Reply

    Thank you so much for your work and this tutorial. I just got bitten HARD by the timelapse bug. Still

    playing with camera settings, but auto exposure leads to flicker as you state as the exposure meter

    responds to the amount of sunlight vs. clouds, but I fear manual will lead to over/underexposure as light

    levels change, as I love sunrise/sunset (doesnt everyone?) timelapses. Am I overthinking this?

    I suppose you overexpose the setting sun to get more color out of the night sky, or expose properly for

    pre-dawn and overexpose the rising sun a little? I suppose bracketing would allow you to choose which

    exposure, but then theres the nightmare of transitioning from the -1EV to 0EV to +1EV I know youve

    worked all this out, so any guidance would be awesome.

    Also, my 5DII manual warned against shooting into the sun do you worry that the live view will

    damage your sensor? I know what a magnifying glass does to insects.

    Thanks again for your tutorial, and thanks in advance for any help.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 16:04h, 08 May Log in to Reply

    I always, always shoot in Manual. Expose correctly at the beginning of the sunset and let it

    go to dark. And the other way around in sunrise.

    Never have problems with sun agains my sensor.

    Good luck.

    D A V I D A H NPosted at 17:21h, 11 May Log in to Reply

    Thanks for your reply!

    I just tried a sunset off my veranda, f/11, 1 s, ISO 100. Even at 1 second, it was

    underexposed at 5:10 am, way overexposed by 7 am. I guess Ill have to further

    underexpose when dark! Ill keep experimenting.

    Thanks again, Enrique!

  • W W W . M O N T A N - L A G O . N LPosted at 14:33h, 07 June Log in to Reply

    Hi there, just wanted to say, I liked this article. It was inspiring. Keep on posting!

    N E H M A NPosted at 19:52h, 07 June Log in to Reply

    hi.iam new to all this ,i have a question.what is attached to the lens and tripod in the picture overlooking

    water falls..

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 09:41h, 09 June Log in to Reply

    Thats a matte box with rails, allow you to put high quality filters and block the light.

    A N H S T A RPosted at 04:21h, 28 January Log in to Reply

    what brand is that filter holder? amazing tips by the way.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 11:07h, 29 January Log in to Reply

    Thanks. Its a pro aim matte box.

  • P E M U D APosted at 08:44h, 09 June Log in to Reply

    Hi. I have a question. When shooting night scene and using the motorized slider, how to avoid blur that

    cause by motorized slider when my camera take photos?

    Sorry for bad English.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 09:42h, 09 June Log in to Reply

    If the movement is slow enough you wont have blur. You can also do move shoot move.

    M A R K E T I N G A N D A D V E R T I S I N GPosted at 16:58h, 09 June Log in to Reply

    Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I really appreciate your efforts and I will be waiting for your further

    post thank you once again.

    Feel free to surf to my web page: marketing and advertising

    A D R I A NPosted at 16:06h, 25 June Log in to Reply

    Una pregunta,con que velocidad a de realizarse el time lapse

  • T H O M A S H A R B O R GPosted at 17:36h, 26 June Log in to Reply

    Hey. Regarding using raw as file format. What write speed do you recommend. Im currently looking at a

    lexar 1000x 32gb. But its pretty expensive. Aldo looking at a transcend 1000x32gb. A bit cheaper but

    maybe its not as good as the lexar.

    Any recommendations.

    I currently have a Canon 40d but will upgrade to a canon 5d mark ii in a year or so.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 10:04h, 27 June Log in to Reply

    That will depend of your interval, but usually is not a problem. I use x533 an works fine.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 10:04h, 27 June Log in to Reply

    Depende de la velocidad de tu escena, tienes ejemplos en el tutorial.

    T H O M A S H A R B O R GPosted at 07:58h, 28 June Log in to Reply

    First thx for the reply. The other day i tried a 1 second interval of

    people skating. I have a 4gb 400x cf card. And that couldnt even

    process medium jpg. But ill kerp investigatong what speed is

    necissary.

    Good times

  • D I E G OPosted at 22:24h, 08 July Log in to Reply

    Hola. si voy a fotografias un atardecer y parte de la noche que settings deberia usar? porque al inciia en

    al tarde tendre una luz fuerte del sol y al llegar la noche sera demaciado oscuro para pode regristrar la

    noche

    Saludos y gracias por el Blog

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 11:19h, 09 July Log in to Reply

    Si quieres registrar correctamente tanto el dia como la noche, tendrs que usar prioridad a

    la abertura, eso si, preparate para corregir el flickeo despus.

    Suerte.

    C S A R G M E ZPosted at 13:42h, 09 July Log in to Reply

    Que gran tecnica y muy bien que explicaste. Felicitaciones por tu trabajo es excelente.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 09:30h, 19 July Log in to Reply

    Gracias Csar.

  • J O S E A N T O N I O D I A Z C H IPosted at 00:53h, 16 July Log in to Reply

    Gran trabajo hecho , los timelapse me han cautivado yo tengo un nikon d40 es posible poder usarla para

    hacer timelpase soy de Cancun y sin duda hay paisajes increibles playa ciudad y muchas cosas mas y me

    gustaria hacer felicitaciones por la pagina

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 09:28h, 19 July Log in to Reply

    Gracias Jose Antonio.

    Claro que la puedes usar, slo necesitas un intervalometro, un tripode y mucha paciencia.

    Un saludo.

    C I N E L E R R A # 1 3 : C R E A R U N T I M E L A P S E | L I N U X - O S . N E TPosted at 14:52h, 16 July Log in to Reply

    [...] el blog de Enrique Pacheco tenemos unos cuantos consejos bsicos para realizar los timelapses de

    forma [...]

    R A M O NPosted at 12:38h, 22 July Log in to Reply

    look at this, it is the greatest ive ever seen, the mountain http://vimeo.com/22439234 by TSO

    Photography

  • M A N IPosted at 08:44h, 05 August Log in to Reply

    Could you explain your gear in the last picture? What is the thing hooked on to the camera lens in front.

    Thanks

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 18:51h, 06 August Log in to Reply

    Thats a matte box, used to hold filters and block the light from the sides.

    P A U L A L E D D APosted at 14:49h, 05 August Log in to Reply

    Enrique como estas? soy de Mendoza Argentina tengo que hacer un time lapse de un edificio que van a

    pintar de colores. Cada cuanto debo poner el intervalmetro? saludos!

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 18:52h, 06 August Log in to Reply

    Depender de cuanto vayan a tardar en pintarlo, horas, das, semanas?

    P H O T O G E E KPosted at 07:34h, 06 August Log in to Reply

    Hello I am looking for blogs about photography and have found yours, good article, I like it, please visit

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  • R I C H A R D R O S S IPosted at 20:44h, 11 August Log in to Reply

    In tip #8 Avoid Flicker in Top Ten Tips for shooting a Time-Lapse, you suggest partially disconnecting

    your lens from the camera. How is this done? Im not sure how to do it. Would you please let me know?

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 21:46h, 12 August Log in to Reply

    My friend Dustin Farrell will show it to you. https://vimeo.com/30974031

    C M O H A C E R U N T I M E L A P S E D E T U S V I A J E S C O N T U M V I L A N D R O I DPosted at 10:13h, 14 August Log in to Reply

    [...] Las preguntas que nos surgen a la hora de plantear un timelapse son muchas, porque primero

    debemos saber cunto tiempo va a durar la toma, a qu velocidad debemos tomar imgenes, y aparte de

    todo esto estn las consideraciones fotogrficas, claro (exposicin, blancos, etc, etc.). A pesar de que

    Droid Timelapse, que es una app gratis para hacer timelapse con nuestro Android nos permite

    configurarlo todo, no debemos dejar de planificar la estrategia a seguir. Aqu unos pocos consejos para,

    sobre todo, saber cada cunto debe disparar la cmara (ms en la web de Enrique Pacheco): [...]

  • J A V IPosted at 11:16h, 28 August Log in to Reply

    hola Pedro,

    tengo una duda encuanto al enfoque, bueno no tengo reflex, tengo una powershot sx50hs, el caso es que

    he leido por ahi lo del enfoque infinito, hay que usar enfoque infinito en los timelapse? o solo en larga

    exposicion?

    mi camara no lo tiene y tengo que andar jugando con el CHDK.

    saludos.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 16:20h, 29 August Log in to Reply

    Lo mejor ser que te hagas con una DSLR.

    Saludos.

    D E N I SPosted at 18:42h, 30 August Log in to Reply

    Iceland; beautiful to the bare eye, but in that magnificent timelapse breathtaking!

    T I M E : T E C H N I C A L U N D E R S T A N D I N G O F T I M E L A P S E S | M Y P H O T ON O T E SPosted at 20:53h, 12 September Log in to Reply

    [...] Lengh of shoot. This was a bit more difficult. But I used this to help me and my calculator: Knowing

    that we need 25 frames to create one second of video (in the European PAL system, in the United States

    it would be 30) a standard length of 10 seconds of footage will need 250 frames. Therefore, we only have

    to multiply 250 by our lapse to know how much time we need to invest in doing the time-lapse. See

    more at: http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-tips-for-shooting-time-lapse#sthash.ilQDnQHS.dpuf [...]

  • S H E L D O NPosted at 19:20h, 13 September Log in to Reply

    Great tips and amazing photos and videos. A question on night photographydoes the 20-30 second

    interval include the actual exposure time. Most night shots seem to be around 30 sec exposure per shot,

    so is the interval added on to that , meaning 1 shot every minute or so? Thanks .

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 19:48h, 13 September Log in to Reply

    No interval between shots at night. Maybe 1 or 2 seconds.

    G U A : C M O H A C E R U N T I M E L A P S E C O N L A C M A R A P I V O T H E A D ( I I I )Posted at 08:01h, 24 September Log in to Reply

    [...] 10 consejos para hacer un time-lapse, por Enrique Pacheco. De la decena de pasos, qudate con

    aquellos que hacen referencia a la parte ms artstica, como por ejemplo Encuadrar es la clave. [...]

  • J U A N J O V A L L SPosted at 21:06h, 15 October Log in to Reply

    Hola Enrique! Mira llevo poco tiempo haciendo Time lapses, y mi problema es el fickeo, trabajo con

    prioridad de velocidad de obturacin, marcndole yo la velocidad siempre por debajo de 1/30 y dejando

    ndiafragma muy alto para que no haya problema en abrir los pasos que sea necesario segn necesite si

    es anochecer, atardecer Pues bien siempre me sale el flickeo cuando edito el time lapse. Que es lo que

    pasa? Te estar infinitamente agradecido si me puedes aclarar algo. Me gusta mucho tu trabajo. Muchas

    gracias de antemano.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 18:32h, 21 October Log in to Reply

    Debes bloquear el diafragma de la optica, y despus procesar con LR Timelapse, que evita el

    flickeo.

    Muchas gracias.

    Saludos.

    J U A N J OPosted at 15:31h, 25 October Log in to Reply

    Gracias Enrique, voy a ver como bloqueo el diafragma. No saba que haba un

    LR Timelapse, as de espec

    fico vaya. Gracias de nuevo, un saludo.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 07:35h, 28 October Log in to Reply

    De nada.

    Saludos y suerte.

  • T I M E L A P S E T U T O R I A L | D E R M O T D O H E R T Y C R E A T I V E D I G I T A L M E D I APosted at 15:20h, 17 November Log in to Reply

    [...] Timelapse Tutorial [...]

    P A T C H W O R K C A R P E TPosted at 19:29h, 18 November Log in to Reply

    really usefull tips! i do a lot of timelapse photography, was happy to read tips from professionals

    G A V I N H A R D C A S T L EPosted at 16:13h, 21 November Log in to Reply

    Brilliant video and brilliant article Enrique. For the shot at 2.10 did you use any lights to light the icy

    foreground or was that purely moonlight?

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 09:38h, 22 November Log in to Reply

    No lights were used. Just moonlight.

  • P E T E R G R A YPosted at 01:37h, 02 December Log in to Reply

    Hello Enrique

    Im setting up a time-lapse film festival next year.

    I am also a time lapse photographer, but I am looking for other people to showcase on the festival

    website. As a lead up to the festival next year, I would like to include techniques and tutorials for people

    interested in entering the festival/awards.

    Would I be able to republish this tutorial on the festival website? (with full attribution and links to your

    website.)

    I would also like to add links to your work in the Showcase part of the website.

    Regards,

    Peter Gray

    Keyframe Festival

    Canberra Australia

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 09:34h, 17 December Log in to Reply

    Of course Peter.

    Regards.

    P E T E RPosted at 19:40h, 02 December Log in to Reply

    hello, thanks for the tips. i have one question. i want pratice timelapse photography witha slider. how

    large in mm should be the distance between two shoots?

    T I M E L A P S E E X P E R I M E N T - P E S S O A ' S I B F I L MPosted at 14:30h, 08 December Log in to Reply

    [...] Here you can find 10 nice tips about taking time lapse pictures: http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-

    tips-for-shooting-time-lapse [...]

  • P A C O R O M O T O R R E SPosted at 19:47h, 08 December Log in to Reply

    Gracias por este hermoso reportaje, pues ayuda mucho a la gente del mundo fotogrfico .Un cordial

    saludo

    S H U T T E R B U G R E M O T E A B L U E T O O T H L E C A M E R A R E M O T E T H A TO P E R A T E S Y O U R C A M E R A D I R E C T L Y F R O M T H E S H U T T E R P O R T | T H EB E S T T I M E L A P S E P H O T O G R A P H Y T U T O R I A L S & C R E A T I V EI N S P I R A T I O NPosted at 19:18h, 15 December Log in to Reply

    [...] 10 tips for shooting time-lapse http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-tips-for-shooting-time-lapse [...]

    I N C R E B L E S " T I M E - L A P S E " V I D E O S - M O S T R A R T E . C LPosted at 18:05h, 13 January Log in to Reply

    [...] http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-tips-for-shooting-time-lapse?lang=es [...]

    P E T E RPosted at 18:26h, 30 January Log in to Reply

    I love your work. Heres a great web app that will calculate the precise interval to set to achieve a certain

    video length: Time-lapse interval calculator

    A S I K N Y A B E R - T I M E L A P S E D E N G A N L U M I X D M C - G F 6 | G O E N R O C K ' SV L O G Posted at 17:19h, 03 February Log in to Reply

    [...] mau belajar lebih jauh cara membuat time-lapse, silakan ngesot ke

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  • S P R A Y T A NPosted at 19:42h, 05 February Log in to Reply

    Hi, Neat post. There is an issue together with your website in internet explorer, would check this?

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    S H A N EPosted at 03:45h, 15 February Log in to Reply

    Wow learn some thing new every day, thanks I didnt know rigidity was a real word

    Also big help on the math side of it braking frames in to seconds helps a lot for my timelapseses

    Thanks

    T I M E L A P S E V I D E O S E R S T E L L E N | Q O O L IPosted at 21:13h, 19 February Log in to Reply

    [...] Tutorials im Internet bezglich wie man solche Timelapse-Aufnahmen macht gibt es unzhlige. Hier

    wre ein ganz Gutes: http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-tips-for-shooting-time-lapse [...]

    R E A L E T S A T E A G E N T SPosted at 15:40h, 23 February Log in to Reply

    I pay a visit each day a few blogs and information sites to read articles or reviews,

    except this web site offers feature based posts.

  • N E W S B O Y C A PPosted at 13:58h, 07 March Log in to Reply

    Wow that was unusual. I just wrote an really long comment but after I clicked

    submit my comment didnt appear. Grrrr well Im not writing all that over again.

    Anyhow, just wanted to say excellent blog!

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    T I M E - L A P S E P R E P A R A T I O N | T R A V E L I N G T O H A W A I IPosted at 00:01h, 17 March Log in to Reply

    [...] See more at: http://www.enriquepacheco.com/10-tips-for-shooting-time-

    lapse#sthash.65FMd2gm.dpuf [...]

  • R E N A T A TPosted at 21:05h, 17 March Log in to Reply

    Te felicito Enrique por tu excelente trabajo, yo soy fotgrafa aficionada y he hecho pequeos Time Lapse

    sobre todo de noche pero en muchas oportunidades he tenido el problema que se me empaa el lente de

    la cmara, donde vivo es fro y hay mucha humedad , como puedo solucionar este problema?? Muchas

    gracias de antemano

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 09:31h, 21 March Log in to Reply

    Hola Renata, tienes que poner unos calentadores elctricos para las lentes.

    Saludos.

    D A N I E L A A .Posted at 07:44h, 16 May Log in to Reply

    Hola Enrique, gracias por tan genial post, nunca intente hacer time lapse, me

    atrae pero no me siento segura, sin embargo la pregunta de Renata atrajo mi

    atencin. Vivo en Uruguay, cerca de la costa y estamos teniendo humedades

    impresionantes, Podras decirme que es un calentador elctrico para la lente?

    La verdad que no hay electricidad en la playa asi que ni idea como resolver lo

    de la humedad Ojala sigas publicando de este tema, es super interesante. Mil

    gracias por tu generosidad! Un saludo cordial.

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 12:54h, 06 June Log in to Reply

    Gracias Daniela.

    Aqu tienes lo que buscas. http://www.dew-not.com/time-

    lapse.htm

  • J O S FPosted at 18:21h, 18 March Log in to Reply

    Hola amigo, muy buen post. tengo una consulta, quiero hacer un timelapse ( nunca he hecho uno) de un

    evento en un local y quiero hacerlo desde que abren la puerta hasta que el local ya este lleno. en un

    intervalo de cuanto tiempo crees que deba hacer cada fotograma?

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 09:32h, 21 March Log in to Reply

    Usa unos 10 segundos, suele funcionar.

    Suerte.

    V E R NPosted at 07:56h, 19 March Log in to Reply

    Im not that much of a internet reader to be honest but your blogs really nice, keep it up!

    Ill go ahead and bookmark your site to come back later.

    All the best

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    M O B I L E G A M E SPosted at 09:49h, 11 April Log in to Reply

    Hey there, Youve done an incredible job.

    I will definitely digg it and personally recommend to my friends.

    I am confident theyll be benefited from this website.

  • H A N SPosted at 11:01h, 11 April Log in to Reply

    Hola Enrique, muy bueno el trabajo que te has tomado. Muy didctico. Solo tengo una pregunta. Cual es

    el programa que se usa habitualmente para editar un Time Lapse o cual me recomiendas. Gracias

    E . P A C H E C OPosted at 13:04h, 06 June Log in to Reply

    Yo uso lightroom y quicktime.

    Saludos.

    D A V I DPosted at 02:36h, 24 April Log in to Reply

    Amazing timelapses Enrique! I have three questions:

    1 What is the silver thing coming out of your upper tripod in the fifth image?

    2 I did a time lapse two nights ago of the stars, and unfortunately I got the strange flicker in a circular

    formation in the middle of the frame. I shot with a Canon 70-200 F2.8. My Canon 17-40 F4 hasnt shown

    this problem yet So Im confused about disconnecting the lens partially do I just press the release

    button and turn the lens a little bit?

    3 Where are most of the timelapses on this site shot?

    Thanks

    O N L I N E K R E D I T IPosted at 07:03h, 27 April Log in to Reply

    Hello, just wanted to mention, I loved this post. It was

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  • T H O M A S H A V E R K A M PPosted at 19:38h, 06 May Log in to Reply

    Great blog. It showed me clearly where I was making the misstakes in my own Timelapses. Using the

    auto priority mode was one of my errors, and yes, I see a nice flickering of my movie due to the exposure

    differences.

    T A N I E W Y N A J M O W A N I E S A M O C H O D W W M I EC I E T A R N WPosted at 14:02h, 10 May Log in to Reply

    Thanks for sharing your thoughts on .

    Regards

    D A Y 1 2 - R E S E A R C H T I M E L A P S E S A N D L O N D O N T R I P |E M P R O D U C T I O N SPosted at 12:21h, 11 May Log in to Reply

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    You must be logged in to post a comment.

    C M O H A C E R U N V D E O T I M E - L A P S E C O N T U C M A R A L U M I X G -B I E N V E N I D O S A L B L O G D E P A N A S O N I C B I E N V E N I D O S A L B L O G D EP A N A S O N I C | B L O G D E P A N A S O N I C E S P A APosted at 14:52h, 26 May Log in to Reply

    [] con el encuadre, la luz, el lugar, para obtener el time lapse perfecto. Nosotros, hemos encontrado un

    post con buenas recomendaciones que por ejemplo hace las siguientes sugerencias para decidir cada

    cunto debemos disparar una []

    T H E B E G I N N E R S G U I D E T O G R A D U A T I O N P H O T O G R A P H Y - W E B S P O NPosted at 12:29h, 29 May Log in to Reply

    [] wait for better timing, Time may never be []

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    RT @marcmaron: Thanks to technology, you

    can never really 'put it all behind you. The

    past is always now., Jul 18

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