1 hair care original presentation by: assoc. prof. dr.pleumchitt rojanapanthu pharmacy department,...

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HAIR CAREHAIR CAREHAIR CAREHAIR CARE

Original presentation by: Original presentation by:

Assoc. Prof. Dr.Pleumchitt RojanapanthuAssoc. Prof. Dr.Pleumchitt Rojanapanthu

Pharmacy Department, Pharmacy Department,

Faculty of Pharmacy Mahidol University, Faculty of Pharmacy Mahidol University,

Bangkok, ThailandBangkok, Thailand

Edited by: Ellen BerwickEdited by: Ellen Berwick

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HairHairHairHairGetting to know hairGetting to know hair

Types of hairTypes of hair Hair structureHair structure Hair growth cycleHair growth cycle Hair Color Hair Color Physical properties of hairPhysical properties of hairChemical properties of hairChemical properties of hair

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ShampoosShampoos ConditionersConditioners “ “2 in 1” shampoos2 in 1” shampoos Hair spraysHair sprays Hair gelsHair gels Perming solutionsPerming solutions Hair dyesHair dyes General remarks about product developmentGeneral remarks about product development

Hair Care Hair Care ProductsProducts that affect Chemistrythat affect Chemistry

Hair Care Hair Care ProductsProducts that affect Chemistrythat affect Chemistry

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Getting to Know HairGetting to Know HairGetting to Know HairGetting to Know Hair

All land mammals including humans have hairy All land mammals including humans have hairy skins skins

Hair characteristics (like your eyes and skin) are Hair characteristics (like your eyes and skin) are inherited directly from our parents inherited directly from our parents

• hair colorhair color

• hair typehair type

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• Human are covered all over in hair except on Human are covered all over in hair except on

the palms of handsthe palms of hands

the sole of the feetthe sole of the feet

the lipsthe lips

• Hair is most obvious on the head and face Hair is most obvious on the head and face

including the nose and ears in some people including the nose and ears in some people

the armpits / the groin the armpits / the groin

the chest and legs (in men) the chest and legs (in men)

Hair distributionHair distribution

66

• Average : 100,000-150,000 hair folliclesAverage : 100,000-150,000 hair follicles

Baby’s head : 1,100 follicles/mBaby’s head : 1,100 follicles/m22

Age 25 : ~ 600/mAge 25 : ~ 600/m22

Age 30-50 : ~ 250-300/mAge 30-50 : ~ 250-300/m22

• Each follicle grow about 20 new hairs in lifetimeEach follicle grow about 20 new hairs in lifetime

• Each new hair grows several year 1 meterEach new hair grows several year 1 meter

• Each hair falls out eventually and is replaced Each hair falls out eventually and is replaced

by a new hairby a new hair

HowHow much hair do we have much hair do we have

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• Different people have hair that differs in Different people have hair that differs in

color, length, diameter, distributioncolor, length, diameter, distribution

• Influence factors : Racial type and AgeInfluence factors : Racial type and Age

Variation in human hairVariation in human hair

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Three types of hair:Three types of hair:

Lanuga hair Lanuga hair • develops on an unborn baby develops on an unborn baby

• 33 months after the baby’s conceptionmonths after the baby’s conception

• fine and softfine and soft

• grows all over the body, at the same rategrows all over the body, at the same rate

• shed about 4 weeks before the baby is due to bornshed about 4 weeks before the baby is due to born

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Vellus hairsVellus hairs• short hair, only 1 or 2 cm longshort hair, only 1 or 2 cm long• contains little or no pigmentcontains little or no pigment• follicle doesn’t have oil glandsfollicle doesn’t have oil glands

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• long hairs that grow on the head, body, arms long hairs that grow on the head, body, arms

and legs and legs

• produced by follicles withproduced by follicles with sebaceous glandssebaceous glands

• people inherited a tendency for baldness where the people inherited a tendency for baldness where the

hair become thinner and shorter until look hair become thinner and shorter until look

like vellus hair like vellus hair

Terminal hairsTerminal hairs

1111

dd

Vellus hairs on a woman’s chin. These are normal when female

hormones decline, hairs on the chin can grow as strongly as

terminal hairs

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• a tiny cup-shaped pit buried deep in the fat of the scalpa tiny cup-shaped pit buried deep in the fat of the scalp

• follicle is the point from which the hair grows follicle is the point from which the hair grows

• well supplied with minute blood vessels well supplied with minute blood vessels

• temperature is not affected by cold or hot watertemperature is not affected by cold or hot water

• the rate of growth depends on thethe rate of growth depends on the

amount of natural light : growing a little faster in winter amount of natural light : growing a little faster in winter

when the days are shortwhen the days are short

Hair StructureHair Structure

Hair follicleHair follicle

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Hair follicle Hair bulbHair follicle Hair bulb

Hair shaft Hair shaft

Hair bulbHair bulb

- lines in - lines in side the hair follicleside the hair follicle

- is a structure of actively growing cells- is a structure of actively growing cells

- produce a long fine cylinder of hairproduce a long fine cylinder of hair

-- new cells are continuously produced in the lower new cells are continuously produced in the lower

part of the bulbpart of the bulb

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(a) Longitudinal section of a hair within its follicle.(a) Longitudinal section of a hair within its follicle.

(b) Enlarged longitudinal section of a hair.(b) Enlarged longitudinal section of a hair.

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(c) Enlarged longitudinal view of the expanded hair bulb of (c) Enlarged longitudinal view of the expanded hair bulb of

the follicle which encloses the matrix, actively dividing epithelial the follicle which encloses the matrix, actively dividing epithelial

cells that produce the hair. cells that produce the hair.

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(d) Cross section of a hair and hair follicle.(d) Cross section of a hair and hair follicle.

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(e) Photomicrograph of scalp tissue showing numerous(e) Photomicrograph of scalp tissue showing numerous

hair follicles (24 hair follicles (24 XX).).

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Scanning electron micrograph showing a hair shaft emerging f rom a follicle at the epidermal surface. Not ice h ow th e s ca l

e like ce lls of th e cu t ic le ove rla p on e a n oth e r (1 5 0 0 x).

1919

• can be seen above the scalpcan be seen above the scalp

• consist mainly of dead cells consist mainly of dead cells

Keratin + binding material + small amount of water Keratin + binding material + small amount of water

• terminal hairs are lubricated by natural oil (sebum) terminal hairs are lubricated by natural oil (sebum)

produced by sebaceous glands produced by sebaceous glands

• high level of hormones (androgens) high level of hormones (androgens) high level of high level of

sebumsebum

The Hair ShaftThe Hair Shaft

2020

• scales growing over the youngest partscales growing over the youngest part

(closet to the scalp) are smooth and unbroken (closet to the scalp) are smooth and unbroken

further along the hair have been damaged by further along the hair have been damaged by

cosmetic treatments and by mistreatment : (over-cosmetic treatments and by mistreatment : (over-

energetic brushing)energetic brushing)

Nature of cuticleNature of cuticle

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Nature of cuticle (con.)Nature of cuticle (con.)• little by little, they may break away :little by little, they may break away :

““weatheringweathering””

• healthy cuticle is more than just a protective layerhealthy cuticle is more than just a protective layer

• intact cuticle cells are smooth, glossy, and reflect light intact cuticle cells are smooth, glossy, and reflect light

from their surface (black hair reflects less light than from their surface (black hair reflects less light than

blond hair)blond hair)

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The cuticle scale on a normal hair

(electronmicrograph)

2424

- Another normal hair but this came - Another normal hair but this came

from one of our nearest relatives from one of our nearest relatives

an oran or angutan! angutan!

A perfect hair seen under the A perfect hair seen under the

electron microscopeelectron microscope

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• keratin chains link by : disulphide bond and keratin chains link by : disulphide bond and hydrogen bondshydrogen bonds

• disulphide bonds can be changed by chemical disulphide bonds can be changed by chemical methods : perming and relaxing methods : perming and relaxing permanentpermanent

• hydrogen bonds can be easily broken apart hydrogen bonds can be easily broken apart whenever the hair is wetted and form again as whenever the hair is wetted and form again as it driesit dries

• when they break the shape of hair changeswhen they break the shape of hair changes• wet hair is wound on the roller, the dried hair wet hair is wound on the roller, the dried hair

keeps the roller shape keeps the roller shape temporarytemporary

Hair shapeHair shape

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• European around 70-90 micronEuropean around 70-90 micron

• Asian around 120 micronAsian around 120 micron

• People have average hair aroundPeople have average hair around

100,000 – 150,000 hairs100,000 – 150,000 hairs

Hair dimensionsHair dimensions

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• individual hair form inside a hair bulb deep in individual hair form inside a hair bulb deep in hair hair

• follicle is tiny but powerful factoryfollicle is tiny but powerful factory• each hair grows during many yearseach hair grows during many years• shampooed, conditioned, cut, blown dry, shampooed, conditioned, cut, blown dry,

exposal to the sun and wind, colored, bleached, exposal to the sun and wind, colored, bleached, permed none of these affected the permed none of these affected the hair hair growth growth

• the hair spontaneously falls outthe hair spontaneously falls out• the follicle rests for a little while and starts to the follicle rests for a little while and starts to

produce a new hairproduce a new hair

Hair growth cycleHair growth cycle

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• anagen : the growing phase (anagen : the growing phase (~~1000 days)1000 days)

• catagen : the intermediate phase (catagen : the intermediate phase (~~10 days)10 days)

• telogen : the shedding phase (telogen : the shedding phase (~~100 days)100 days)

Stage of the hair cycleStage of the hair cycle

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• last between 3-7 years without interruptionlast between 3-7 years without interruption• roughly 1 cm/month > 1 meterroughly 1 cm/month > 1 meter• faster rate in winter than summerfaster rate in winter than summer• melanin is made in hair bulb throughout this melanin is made in hair bulb throughout this

phase phase • less pigment is made in older people, hair cycle less pigment is made in older people, hair cycle

becomes shorterbecomes shorter• follicles gradually give up producing long, follicles gradually give up producing long,

strong hair :strong hair :• hairs become thinner and shorter hairs become thinner and shorter

thinning of the hair degree of baldnessthinning of the hair degree of baldness

Anagen (the growing phase)Anagen (the growing phase)

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• short resting phase : 2-4 weeksshort resting phase : 2-4 weeks

• no pigment is madeno pigment is made

• follicles stop producing hairfollicles stop producing hair

• the base of follicle moves upwards towards the the base of follicle moves upwards towards the

surface of the skin surface of the skin

Catagen (the intermediate phase)Catagen (the intermediate phase)

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• lastlast forfor - 34 - 34 monthsmonths• new hair begin to grow from the hair folliclenew hair begin to grow from the hair follicle• as it grow s upwards the old hair will be shed as it grow s upwards the old hair will be shed

naturally or easily be pulled outnaturally or easily be pulled out• at anytime around one in ten of the follicles at anytime around one in ten of the follicles

at individual’s head is in the shedding phase at individual’s head is in the shedding phase • shedding is part of normal process of the shedding is part of normal process of the

replacement of old hair with new hairreplacement of old hair with new hair• new hair emerges from the same opening as new hair emerges from the same opening as

the old onethe old one

Telogen (the shedding phase)Telogen (the shedding phase)

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The hair follicle cycle The hair follicle cycle

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A method of measuring the rate of hair growth: both cut A method of measuring the rate of hair growth: both cut

hairs and newly emerging hairs can be seenhairs and newly emerging hairs can be seen

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Electronmicrograph showing new hairs emerging from Electronmicrograph showing new hairs emerging from

the hair follicles of the scalp the hair follicles of the scalp

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• general health and general health and nutritional factorsnutritional factors

• starvationstarvation or crash diet loosing hair in 6-10 or crash diet loosing hair in 6-10

weeksweeks

• alcoholicalcoholic people have poor hair people have poor hair

• some some mineralsminerals may particularly important for hair may particularly important for hair

growthgrowth

What controls hair growthWhat controls hair growth ? ?

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• lack of Znlack of Zn : produces only fine, sparse hairs : produces only fine, sparse hairs

even lost their hairseven lost their hairs

• Vit BVit B : known as panthenol, plays a: known as panthenol, plays a

part in hair growth, improvespart in hair growth, improves

physical propertiesphysical properties

(elasticity, strength and gloss)(elasticity, strength and gloss)

of the hair shaftof the hair shaft

Hair growth (con.)Hair growth (con.)

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• thyroid hormone speeds up growth in thyroid hormone speeds up growth in

resting hair folliclesresting hair follicles

• steroids taken by mouth slow down the growthsteroids taken by mouth slow down the growth

Hormones :Hormones :

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• Androgen : the most important factor regulating Androgen : the most important factor regulating

hair growth, thickness of hair shaft hair growth, thickness of hair shaft

: changes vellus - like hair : changes vellus - like hair

terminal hairterminal hair

• oestrogen : slow down hair growth duringoestrogen : slow down hair growth during

growth period, make the period longer growth period, make the period longer

Hormones (con.)Hormones (con.)

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This boy has a zinc deficiency, and his hair is very thin and sparse;

after treatment his hair is growing more strongly

4141

PigmentationPigmentation• Melanin : - produced by melanocytes at growing Melanin : - produced by melanocytes at growing phase (anagen)phase (anagen)

- spread out throughout the cortex, the - spread out throughout the cortex, the more near outer edge more near outer edge

- does not protect the harmful effect - does not protect the harmful effect fromfrom

sunlightsunlight - is found in 2 forms- is found in 2 forms• Eumelanin : dark pigmented which Eumelanin : dark pigmented which

predominates in black and predominates in black and

brunette hair/oval shape brunette hair/oval shape

• Phaeomelain : lighter pigment, found in red Phaeomelain : lighter pigment, found in red

and blond hair/smaller, partly and blond hair/smaller, partly

oval and partly rod- shapeoval and partly rod- shape

Hair ColorHair Color

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Melanin granules in the cortex of a hair

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• the arrangement of keratin bundlesthe arrangement of keratin bundles

the way the large bundles of keratin are the way the large bundles of keratin are

arranged within each hair shaftarranged within each hair shaft

• the position of hair bulb :the position of hair bulb :

African hair bulb may lie to the side of the African hair bulb may lie to the side of the

follicle, so the hair shaft grows out of the follicle at an acute anglefollicle, so the hair shaft grows out of the follicle at an acute angle

Factors affecting hair structure :Factors affecting hair structure :

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• irregular growth in the hair bulb :irregular growth in the hair bulb : if it varies if it varies

slightly to one side or the other, hair may grow wavyslightly to one side or the other, hair may grow wavy

• the shape of the follicle :the shape of the follicle : whether it is straight whether it is straight or or

curvedcurved

• the number of twists per unit length :the number of twists per unit length :

African hair has 12 times as many twist per cm.African hair has 12 times as many twist per cm.

as Caucasian hairas Caucasian hair

Factors affecting hair structure (con.) Factors affecting hair structure (con.)

4646

• StrengthStrength

• Elasticity Elasticity

• Static electricityStatic electricity

• Moisture contentMoisture content

• PorosityPorosity

• TextureTexture

Physical properties of hairPhysical properties of hair

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• a single hair can support a load of about 100 gma single hair can support a load of about 100 gm

• keratin protein of the cortex responsible for the keratin protein of the cortex responsible for the

hair strength hair strength

• keratin is a protein chains contain high keratin is a protein chains contain high

concentration of an amino acid called “concentration of an amino acid called “cystinecystine””

• matrix contains high level of cystinematrix contains high level of cystine

Hair strengthHair strength

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• each cystine unit contains 2 cysteine amino acids in each cystine unit contains 2 cysteine amino acids in

different chain different chain

• the chains are linked by two sulphur atoms, the chains are linked by two sulphur atoms,

forming a very strong chemical bond forming a very strong chemical bond

““disulphide linkagedisulphide linkage””

• many disulphide bonds form down the length many disulphide bonds form down the length

of the keratin chainsof the keratin chains

Hair strength (con.)Hair strength (con.)

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Chemical bonds within the hair maintain its shape

5050

• one of the most important propertiesone of the most important properties

• can resist forces that could change itscan resist forces that could change its

shape, volume and lengthshape, volume and length

• lest spring back to its original lest spring back to its original

form without damageform without damage

• wet hair can increase the length up to 30% wet hair can increase the length up to 30%

and return to original length when it is driedand return to original length when it is dried

ElasticityElasticity

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• elasticity of hair depends on the longelasticity of hair depends on the long

keratin fibers in the cortexkeratin fibers in the cortex

• chemical treatment can alter the cortex chemical treatment can alter the cortex

and change the hair elasticityand change the hair elasticity

Elasticity (con.)Elasticity (con.)

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• poor elasticity :poor elasticity :

- stretch only to a limited extent- stretch only to a limited extent

- will break easily- will break easily

- cannot be permed satisfactorily - cannot be permed satisfactorily

• natural sunlight and artificial UV light natural sunlight and artificial UV light

damage chemicals of hair and its elasticitydamage chemicals of hair and its elasticity

Elasticity (con.)Elasticity (con.)

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Static electricityStatic electricity

• rubbing drug hair / brushing / combingrubbing drug hair / brushing / combing

builds up static electric charge builds up static electric charge

• thethe charges tend to push each other apartcharges tend to push each other apart

• charged hair never lie smooth against charged hair never lie smooth against

each other each other “ fly away ” hair“ fly away ” hair

• stands out from the head stands out from the head

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Moisture content :Moisture content :

Heat and humidityHeat and humidity• more moisturemore moisture

• less static electricity less static electricity

• collapsecollapse

Heat and drynessHeat and dryness• less moistureless moisture• more static electricitymore static electricity• more volumemore volume

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- wet hair swell cortex / lift cuticle scales- wet hair swell cortex / lift cuticle scales

- hair surface temporally loses its smoothness- hair surface temporally loses its smoothness

- wet hair - wet hair more friction matting more friction matting

and tangles (over vigorous shampoo)and tangles (over vigorous shampoo)

Moisture content (con.)Moisture content (con.)

5757

• cuticle covering cortex is intact : cuticle covering cortex is intact : almostalmost

water proof (very little water can go inwater proof (very little water can go in

and out)and out)

• shampoos do not damage the cuticle shampoos do not damage the cuticle

• treating the hair (permed or tinted)treating the hair (permed or tinted)

PorosityPorosityNormal hairNormal hair

5858

• temperature / applying an alkaline lotiontemperature / applying an alkaline lotion

separate the scaleseparate the scale

• allowing chemicals to go insideallowing chemicals to go inside

• after processing after processing scales close upscales close up

Porosity (con.)Porosity (con.)

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• processing many times / too much blow processing many times / too much blow

drying/ too high temperative / effect drying/ too high temperative / effect

of sun and wind of sun and wind

the scales lose the tightness the scales lose the tightness

the porous the porous

damage cuticle is fragiledamage cuticle is fragile

develop split end develop split end


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the damage is worse as the time goes the damage is worse as the time goes

byby

the greater the damage, the more the the greater the damage, the more the

cortex swells with water cortex swells with water

the more water loses when it driesthe more water loses when it dries

repeated wetting and drying of therepeated wetting and drying of the

cortex, gradually weakens the hair cortex, gradually weakens the hair


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• the larger the hair diameter the the larger the hair diameter the

coarser it will feel coarser it will feel

• different people’s hair naturally feel different people’s hair naturally feel

different soft / hard / silky / wirydifferent soft / hard / silky / wiry

• effected by degree of weathering of haireffected by degree of weathering of hair

TextureTexture

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Texture is affected by what has been put on it :Texture is affected by what has been put on it :

- spray : makes different feeling- spray : makes different feeling

- conditioner : feel soft and smooth- conditioner : feel soft and smooth

- - conditioner with silicone : protect theconditioner with silicone : protect the

hair cuticle hair cuticle

- damage to cuticle : alter the hair texture- damage to cuticle : alter the hair texture

Texture (con.)Texture (con.)

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Chemistry of HairChemistry of Hair

• Keratinization process in the follicle keratin + water soluble

substances : pentose, phenols, uric acid, glycogen, glutamic acid,

valine, leucine

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Chemistry of Hair (con.)Chemistry of Hair (con.)

• Keratin is composed of amino acidKeratin is composed of amino acid

• 18 out of 25 normal amino acids18 out of 25 normal amino acids are found in keratinare found in keratin

6565

• Organization of hair protein sets up by bonding in 3 ways :


between parallel peptide chains

I Formation of H-bondsFormation of H-bonds

6666

between acidic and basic side chain


II Format II Formatii on of salt linkage on of salt linkage

6767


• amino acid contains two amino and two carlygl groups link together by a disulphide bond

III Format III Formationion of disulphide linkages of disulphide linkages

6868Structure for Structure for - keratin- keratin

1 hair care original presentation by: assoc. prof. dr.pleumchitt rojanapanthu pharmacy department,...

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