01m transmission removal

01M Removal and Reinstallation Remove breather, & battery. To access top area of trans.

Removebatterytray toaccess topof starterarea.

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Then take PS line bracket and trans wireharness bracket off Mount bracket bolt stud. Pay attention to routing of wires and the wiringbracket goes below the PS line bracket. Thismust be assembled the correct way as you goback together to make it right.


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Unplug the following inthis pic. 1. Solenoid connector2. G68 sensorconnector3. G22 VSS connector4. Unscrew G22counter clockwise toremove it so it doesn'tget broken duringhandling.5. Unplug Multifunctionswitch. 6. Pry with evenpressure upwards topop the shifter cable offthe shifter lever. Don’tcock it or you'll break itlike this one is. Usuallyyou don’t want toremove the bolt "X"because you would thenloose shifter cableadjustment. I supposeyou could paint mark


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the adjustment, thenremove the bolt, andwhen you bolt it backup just make sure theadjustment is thesame. This mightprevent the cable endfrom breaking. I justmake sure to pull thecable off carefully.7. Remove the

horseshoe shaped clip from the shifter cable, by prying it upwards. Then take the cable out of the cable bracket and wedge or tie the shifter cable out of theway. Remove the G38 sensor from thetrans. I don’t uplug it from thesensor. Just remove it from thetrans and fold it with the entire transharness into the battery tray area.


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I also remove the multifunctionswitch from the trans,because once I broke onewhile removing the trans it because it brushed againstthe car and broke it.


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Remove negative battery cable endfrom stud on top bell bolt


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Then remove front upper bell bolt


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Then remove front rear bell bolt.

Power steering line has thisbracket on it. Don’t remove thePS line bolt in this pic. It’s apain to reinstall. Just removethe entire bracket from thebottom starter bolt stud laterwhen you are under the car.Also in this pic is the harnesscarrier that bolts to the topstarter bolt. To remove theharness carrier there is a"latch" on the bottom. Releasethe latch and push the harnesscarrier towards the batteryarea. It will slide around the


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harness to give you room totake out the top starter bolt.

Here'swhat itlooks at


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when theharnesscarrier ispushedaside. After theharnesscarrier andharness ispushed outof theway, you'llget a littlemore roomto removethe topstarter boltby gettingthesolenoidwire andstartercable out of the way. First remove the cap from the starter cable.


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Then unplug the solenoid wire.

Then remove the starter cable nut and then takethe cable off and fold it into the battery trayarea..


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The 13mm nut that retains the harness carrier bracket ishidden behind the harness carrier bracket in the picture.


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Remove the nut off then remove the topstarter bolt. You can do this from the top witha ratchet, or from the bottom with a impactand a swivel, after removing the belly pan,splash guard and wheel.


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Remove the cooler and wedge it up out of yourway.


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Don’t remove the mount bolts at thispoint. You want to keep theengine/trans supported by the mount aslong as possible. Now jack up the car


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and remove the front wheels. Be sureto support the car safely with jackstands and I would suggest putting thewheels under the car, as a secondarysafety. Remove the belly pan and leftside splash cover. Later in the process you’ll be pulling thedown pipe off the exhaust manifold orturbo so first thing you should do aftersupporting the car with jack stands is tospray the flange bolts down with PBBlaster or some other penetrating lubebecause you don’t want the studs tobreak off. Then take the power steering linebracket off the stud on the bottom starter bolt. Then remove the starter bolt and remove the starter.

Remove the ball joint on the leftside. I don’t remove the right sideball joint or wheel. The holes thatthe bolts pass through are slotted


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and you’ll need to bolt them back upin the same location. Usually youcan reinstall the ball joint in the samelocation during reinstallation bylooking at rust pattern witnessmarks. You might want to paintmark to locate the bolts forreinstallation. Or you can removethe ball joint nut instead of the 3bolts.. Note: it’s entirely possible toremove and reinstall the entiretransmission without removing theaxles or ball joints. But without atleast one side out of the way it’sdifficult to work around it. I do thisto make it easer.


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Here's a pic removing the LS axlebolts with the XZN (triple spline)tool. After you remove one rotatethe right side tire to get access tothe next one. If I was doing thison jackstands I would use myfoot to turn the tire while workingon the left side.

I usually take the bottom bolt out of the Left sway bar link. This allows you to fold the axle out of the way, behind theA-arm. You could just remove the axle, but then you’d have


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to have the 30mm 12 point axle socket.

Axle moved behind the A-arm. Note: it’s entirely possible to remove andreinstall the entire transmission withoutremoving the axles or ball joints. Butwithout at least one side out of the way it’sdifficult to work around it. I do this to makeit easer.


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. Remove the Cv boot leak shield.


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Then take the xzn bolts outof the right axle. Leave therear bell housing boltalone. It will hold the transin place till last.


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To see the torque converter bolts while Iwork there I like to put a light here nearthe RS A-Arm.

Up behind the right axle stubthere is a small round plasticcover. Remove the cover then


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use a 15 mm to remove the 3torque converter bolts.

To turn the engine over to access the toqueconverter nuts, use a 19mm 12 point shallowsocket on the crank pulley. If you went out oforder and pulled the mount and the motor islower than its supposed to be then you won’t beable to fit the ratchet in there without raising themotor.


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At somepoint in


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here youneed toremove thependulummount. There are2 boltsgoing intothe

“K-member” and 2 going into the trans. These are stretch bolts and should be replaced on reassembly.


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01m transmission removal

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