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Functionalingredients

EMULMETIK™BIOPHILIC™AMISOL™ SOFTHELIOFEEL™

Phospholipid-based emulsifiers

Bio-compatible ingredients-Active formulas -High tolerance

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Emulmetik™ are natural lecithins and phospholipids with various

phosphatidylcholine contents. Used as co-emulsifiers, wetting

agents or active ingredients, they improve all types of formulation

with a unique sensorial and natural approach.

PhosPholiPids as natural emulsiFiersPolar lipids and above all phospholipids are essential constituents of the cellular

membrane of all living organisms. Organized in bi-layers, they form a selective and

protective barrier which regulates cell life.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics extracts phospholipids from various vegetable sources to

provide the cosmetic industry with natural and biocompatible emulsifying molecules

to formulate O/W emulsions.

Phospholipids (including phosphatidylcholine) are long molecules designed by nature

with a hydrophilic head and two lipophilic tails. This amphiphilic character is responsible

for their emulsifying properties.

When used as co-emulsifiers in combination with other emulsifiers or molecules with high HLB, their emulsifying properties are

enhanced.

When used in make-up, the pigments bind to the polar group of phospholipids and are thus dispersed in the oil phase, while avoiding

pigment aggregation. This property is accompanied by an interesting decrease in viscosity for example during the pouring of lipstick.

Under specific conditions, they can also form liposomes. Liposomes are mainly used as delivery systems to encapsulate both water-

soluble and oil-soluble compounds in a skin-compatible structure, which facilitates the penetration and helps active ingredients to

reach selected targets.

100% active FormulasPhospholipids also have specific biological activities. As natural skin-identical ingredients, they have a high affinity to the skin

and therefore are diffused through the cutaneous layers easily. They are important source of essential fatty acids to keep the

skin supple. They form a protective and restructuring film on the skin’s surface which prevents the water loss while increasing the

hydration of the stratum corneum, and acts as a delivery system for a continuous and long-lasting effect.

The base of the formulation is therefore also an entire active part of the formulation.

Phospholipids combine technological function and skin treating properties.

EMULMETIK™ 100* 300 320 900 930 950

INCI name Lecithin LecithinHydrogenated

LecithinLecithin Lecithin

HydrogenatedLecithin

Phospholipidsand glycolipids

60% 97% 97% 97% 97% 97%

Phosphatidylcholine 12% 23% 23% 50% 95% 97%

Technical function

MoisturizerWetting agent

Sensorial adjuster

Co-emulsifierStabilizing agentWetting agent

Co-emulsifierStabilizing agentWetting agent

Liposomeprecursor

Liposomeprecursor

Liposomeprecursor

Ecocert status PCR negative quality registered

* Exists in organic version: ORGANIC LECITHIN

Biophilic™ is a patented natural lamellar O/W system based on

the emulsifying properties of phospholipids combined with other

vegetable lipids. For a sophisticated skin feel.

the PhosPholiPid touch

Lamellar networkWhen combined with other fatty acids and fatty alcohols, the emulsifying properties

of phospholipids are improved. They first form monolayers around oil droplets, and

progressively, a bilayer network is formed in the aqueous phase to create a lamellar

structure.

The rigid lamellar network formed with Biophilic™ yields very stable creams capable

of carrying up to 30% by weight of oil: oil-drops are stabilized in the layers of the

emulsion.

It is also able to entrap active ingredients which are continuously released as the cream

penetrates the skin.

The “Second Skin” conceptThe lamellar emulsion mimics the lipid structure of the stratum corneum for a perfect

affinity. It acts as a “second skin” and therefore helps to restore the cutaneous barrier

of damaged skin. The emulsion melts on the skin during the application and forms a

restructuring film which reduces TEWL.

Rich and sophisticated textureBiophilic™ is particularly recommended to create rich textures, since the fatty alcohol

and the palmitic acid provide consistency and nourishing sensation.

The Biophilic™ range contains two references with different lecithins.

- The hydrogenated lecithin in Biophilic™ H provides very important thickening

properties and allows the formulation of white and odorless emulsions from cream

to butter.

- Biophilic™ S contains unsaturated lecithin, creating softer and more fluid off-white

textures from lotion to cream.

Biophilic™ forms lamellar O/w emulsions able to restore the skin barrier.

Product descriptionIncI nAMEBIOPHILIc™ H Hydrogenated lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acidBIOPHILIc™ S Lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acid

EcOcErT / cOSMOS STATUS PCR negative quality registered

APPEArAncEBeige to light grey pellets (H) Light yellow pellets (S)

FOrMULATIOnHydrate for 20 minutes above 65°C

OPTIMUM pH 5-7

DOSAgE 3-6%

APPLIcATIOnSLotions to butter emulsions for: - Skin care- Suncare- Make-up

Variation of TEWL

% c

om

pare

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Gel with 5% Biophilic™ tested on the forearms of 6 volunteers,

after washing with a 10% solution of sodium lauryl sulfate

-22

3h after the application

of the gel

Before the application of the gel

Lamellar structure of a cream with Biophilic™

n Oil n Smooth matrix

Network of stacked sheets

Primary particles

0

-5

-10

-15

-20

-25

Amisol™ Soft is an optimized blend of phospholipids, phytosterols

and vegetable lipids which forms lamellar O/W emulsions for soft

applications.

the gentle emulsiFier

Lamellar networkLamellar O/W creams and lotions formulated

with Amisol™ Soft are organized in phospholipidic

bilayers with interspersed phytosterols and fatty

alcohols. The combination of phospholipids with

phytosterols allows the formation of a stable supple

lamellar network, leading to fluid emulsions. This

biomimetic structure is particularly suitable for

sensitive or stressed skins.

Protective actionThe natural barrier of irritated skin is disrupted by physical and chemical damages,

causing redness and dryness. Amisol™ Soft forms a biomimetic lipid film on the skin’s

surface to prevent damage. The phytosterols also soothe and calm the irritated skin

due to their well-known anti-inflammatory properties.

Amisol™ Soft maintains the protective function of the stratum corneum.

The TEWL is reduced ensuring optimum hydration.

PolysensorialEmulsions made with Amisol™ Soft have three main features. Firstly, they give an

immediate feeling of coolness. Secondly, the voluptuous character of the emulsion

provides unctuous sensation. Its shear thinning behavior improves the spreadability

properties of creams and lotions. Finally, Amisol™ Soft leaves the skin velvety smooth.

Amisol™ Soft creates soft lamellar O/w emulsions with protective and soothing effects.

Product descriptionIncI nAMEBehenyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine soja (soybean) sterols

EcOcErT / cOSMOS STATUS PCR negative quality registered

APPEArAncELight yellow pellets

FOrMULATIOnHydrate for 20 minutes above 65°C

OPTIMUM pH 4-7

DOSAgE 3-6%

APPLIcATIOnSLotions to creams: - Sensitive skin care- Baby care products- Suncare- Make-up

Time (hours)

Lamellar structure of a cream with Amisol™ Soft

control Placebo Amisol™ Soft

tEWL Variation

% c

om

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d t

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0

Gel with 5% Amisol™ Soft tested on the forearms of 11 volunteers

1h

1 0

5

2h

13

4

17

0

5

10

15

20

Heliofeel™ is an easy-to-use natural O/W emulsifier with

sunflower phospholipids. It creates a wide range of textures, and

can be used in all formulation types.

the Polyvalent emulsiFier

Made with sunflower phospholipids and two other

natural emulsifying ingredients, Heliofeel™ is the last

launched emulsifier in the Lucas Meyer Cosmetics

series. It provides a micellar O/W emulsion with a

discontinuous lamellar phase around oil droplets.

Easy-to-useHeliofeel™ is very simple to use as it doesn’t require the hydration of phospholipids.

Heliofeel™ is compatible with a large variety of oils (up to 40% with 4% Heliofeel™),

pigments and both physical and chemical sunscreens.

It forms particularly stable emulsions in the presence of electrolytes (e.g. 1% NaCl) and

other destabilizing agents (organic acids, glyceryl esters...) over a wide range of pH.

Large range of texturesPolyvalent, it allows the formulation of a large range of textures from sprayable

emulsions when used alone, to cream emulsions when combined with a thickener. The

viscosity increases with increasing Heliofeel™ and oil phase contents.

According to the specific sensorial profile established by an expert panel, Heliofeel™

gives more fluid white emulsions with higher brightness and a better penetration when

applied. This is based on its less rigid “non lamellar structure”.

Moisturizing actionBased on the film-forming properties of phospholipids, Heliofeel™ forms a protective

barrier, which decreases TEWL and therefore helps to keep the skin moisturized.

Heliofeel™ provides moisturizing micellar O/w emulsions from sprays to creams.

Product descriptionIncI nAMEGlyceryl stearate citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin

EcOcErT / cOSMOS STATUS Registered

APPEArAncELight yellow pellets

FOrMULATIOnIntroduce into oil phase

OPTIMUM pH 4-8

DOSAgE 3-6%

APPLIcATIOnS- Sprayable to cream emulsions- Suncare- Make-up

Cream structure with Heliofeel™

Placebo Heliofeel™

Active formula: Heliofeel™ (4%), Phenonip™ (0.5%), water (95.5%)Placebo: Phenonip™ (0.5%), water (99.5%)

Variation of TEWL

% c

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1h 2h 3h 4h

-8%-6%

-6%-5%

0

-2

-4

-6

-8

-10

Time (hours)

pH: 5.0 - 5.5 – Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 20 000 - 30 000 mPa.s




After Shave Balm 7.047.01 C60 ECO

Rebalancing Cream 9.180.03 C84

Nutricream 9.176.01 C84 ECO

Milky Aqua Cream 9.202.06 C88

A Deionised water Water 61.70 Dermofeel™ PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water 0.10

B Glycerin Glycerin 5.00 Satiaxane CX 91 Xanthan gum 0.30 Amigum Sclerotium gum 0.30

C Amisol™ Soft Behenyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate 4.00 (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine soja (soybean) sterols Cetiol CC Dicaprylyl carbonate 7.00 Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 5.00 Shea butter Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter 2.00 Sweet almond oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil 2.00 Dermofeel™ GSC* Glyceryl stearate citrate 1.00 Dermofeel™ Toco 70 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus 0.20 non GMO* (sunflower) seed oil

D Capt-System™ PS Glycerin (and) Water (and) Dicaprylyl ether 4.00 (and) Lecithin (and) Phytosphingosine Lysosensyl™ Water (and) Glycerin (and) Lysolecithin 4.00

E Dermorganics™ 1388* Fragrance 3.00 Potassium sorbate Potassium sorbate 0.30

F Eau de source C4212 Fragrance 0.10

A Deionised water Water 72.25 Amigel Sclerotium gum 0.50 Dermofeel™ PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water 0.10 Blue 1 0.1% solution Water (and) CI 42090 0.20 Linumine™ Linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed extract 0.25 Chlorphenesin Chlorphenesin 0.30

B Heliofeel™ Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) 4.00 Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin Dermofeel™ Toco 70 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus 0.20 non GMO* (sunflower) seed oil Dermofeel™ BGC* Butylene glycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate 4.00 Dc 200.350 CS Dimethicone 3.00 Dub inin Isononyl isononanoate 4.00 Crodamol W Stearyl heptanoate 3.00

C Hydraporine™ Betaine (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) 3.00 Hydrogenated lecithin (and) Honey (and) Pectin Canadian Willowherb™ Water (and) Epilobium angustifolium 1.00 flower/leaf/stem extract Kollaren® Water (and) Dextran (and) Tripeptide-1 1.00

D Dermosoft™ 1388* Fragrance 3.00

E Capture 3068 Fragrance 0.20

A Deionised water Water 58.80 Dermofeel™ PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water 0.10

B Glycerin Glycerin 4.00 Satiaxane CX 91 Xanthan gum 0.30 Amigum Sclerotium gum 0.30

C Biophilic™ H Hydrogenated lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols 4.00 (and) Palmitic acid

D Myritol 318 Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 7.00 Sweet almond oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil 5.00 Shea butter Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter 3.00 Dermofeel™ Sensolv* Isoamyl laurate 6.00 Dermofeel™ Toco 70 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus 0.20 non GMO* (sunflower) seed oil

E Sculptessence™ Water (and) Glycerin (and) Linum 5.00 usitatissimum (linseed) seed extract Suprem’™ Nature Water (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) 2.00 Avoine seed oil (and) Lecithin (and) Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (and) Glycerin (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) Avena sativa (oat) kernel extract Songa™ Water (and) Solidago virgaurea (goldenrod) 1.00 extract

F Dermorganics™ 1388* Fragrance 3.00 Potassium sorbate Potassium sorbate 0.30

A Deionised water Water 65.20 FDC yellow 5 0.1% Water (and) CI 19140 0.40 solution FDC red 4 0.1% Water (and) CI 14700 0.20 solution Chlorphenesin Chlorphenesin 0.30 Dermofeel™ PA-3* Sodium phytate (and) Water 0.10 Biophilic™ S Lecithin (and) C12-16 alcohols (and) 4.00 Palmitic acid

B Glycerin Glycerin 3.00 Satiaxane CX 91 Xanthan gum 0.30 Amigel Sclerotium gum 0.20

C Myritol 318 Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 3.00 Dermofeel™ Toco 70 Tocopherol (and) Helianthus annuus 0.20 non GMO* (sunflower) seed oil Sweet almond oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil 5.00 Dc 200.350 CS Dimethicone 2.00 Dermofeel™ BGC* Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate 5.00

D Isocell™ Life Water (and) Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) 4.00 Butylene glycol (and) Sodium styrene/acrylates copolymer Suprem’™ WP Water (and) Gossypium herbaceum (cotton) 1.00 Coton seed oil (and) Lecithin (and) Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (and) Glycerin (and) Glyceryl stearate Exo-H™ Butylene glycol (and) Alteromanas ferment 1.00 filtrate

E Covabead PMMA Polymethyl methacrylate 2.00

F Dermosoft™ 1388* Fragrance 3.00

G Empreinte 4094 Fragrance 0.10

IngrEDIEnT IncI nAME %




* Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.

unique sensorial ProFile

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has optimized the emulsifying properties of phospholipids by

combining them with other natural compounds with higher HLB values.

Three generations of phospholipid-based emulsifiers have been developed - Biophilic™,

Amisol™ Soft and Heliofeel™- to offer various choices of formulations with unique

sensorial characteristics.

high tolerance

The ingredients composing Biophilic™, Amisol™ Soft and Heliofeel™ have been selected

with particular care. They are 100% natural raw materials and present a high affinity and

biocompatibility with the skin for a perfect safety.

Compared to other types of emulsifier systems on the market (sucroesters and

ethoxylated systems), they are better tolerated and can be used for all kind of products,

particularly for the most delicate applications (sensitive skin products, baby care and

cleansers).

Biophilic™, Amisol™ Soft, Heliofeel™: the emulsifiers which pamper your skin.

Phospholipid touchThe sensory profiles of basic creams containing 4% of each

emulsifier were evaluated by an expert panel. All phospholipid-

based emulsifiers give some similar results which can be

characterized as the “Phospholipid Touch” :

• Cool

• Slippery

• Non-tacky

• Soft

However, each emulsifier has its own individual benefits and is

recommended for different applications based on the desired

texture and skin feel.

Opacity

White (color)

Brightness

Fluidity

Picking

Slipping

Coolness

Whitening (application)

Spreadability

Greasiness

Penetration

Tackiness

Softness

Residue

2

4

6

8

10

0

Biophilic™ H

Amisol™ Soft

Heliofeel™

cELLuLar viabiLity

%

In vitro cytotoxicity using the MTT assay on human normal epidermal

keratinocytes.

Tested dose: 0.008%

Biophilic™ H

>100

Amisol™ Soft Heliofeel™ Sucroesters Ethoxylatedsystem

-30% -80%100

80

60

40

20

0

Features And BenefitsFEATUrES BEnEFITS

Phospholipids: skin-identical molecules Strong skin affinity and biocompatibility, high tolerance

The “Phospholipid touch”: a sensorial signature Cool, slippery, non tacky, non greasy and soft skin feel

Various phospholipid-based O/W emulsifiers Formulation of a wide range of textures from spray to butter

Summary Biophilic™ H Biophilic™ S Amisol™ Soft Heliofeel™

Hydration phase Yes Yes Yes No

Lamellar network Yes Yes Yes No

pH 5-7 5-7 4-7 4-8

Viscosity ++++ ++ +++ +

richness on application +++ +++ ++ +

cream dose 4-6%

4-6% 4-6%

4-6% + thickener + thickener

Lotion dose

1-2% 4-6% 3-4% 4-6% + co-emulsifier

Spray dose 1-2% 1-2% 1-2%

3-4% + co-emulsifier + co-emulsifier + co-emulsifier

Main applications

Face and body care Face and body care Face and body care Face and body care suncare, make-up suncare, make-up suncare, make-up suncare, make-up

Ecocert status PCR negative PCR negative PCR negative

Registered quality registered quality registered quality registered

LUcAS MEyEr cOSMETIcS S.A.S.

ZA les Belles Fontaines99 route de Versailles91160 Champlan - France T: +33 (0)1 69 10 69 69 - F: +33 (0)1 69 10 69 70

LUcAS MEyEr cOSMETIcS cAnADA Inc.

Place de la Cité, Tour de la Cité2600 boul. Laurier, #900Québec (Québec) - G1V 4W2 CanadaT: +1 418 653-6888 - F: +1 418 653-6005

This brochure is not intended for consumers and neither this brochure nor any extract thereof shall be used in order to commercialize products to consumers. No drawing, photograph or other extract derived from this brochure shall be used by any person without our prior written approval. As well, no claim with respect to the ingredient referred to in this brochure shall be made by any person without our prior written approval, even though the claim is set forth in this brochure. The person using the ingredient referred to in this brochure in the formulation of finished products is solely responsible for ensuring that the use made of the ingredient, the finished products marketed to consumers, their packaging, labelling and advertising materials and the claims made with respect to the finished products and the ingredient comply with all applicable laws and regulations. We hereby disclaim any warranty of suitability of the ingredient referred to in this brochure for any purpose. Any prospective user of the ingredient shall himself determine the suitability of the ingredient for his intended use and, as the case may be, obtain the required regulatory approvals for the commercialization of his finished products.

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